Lord of the Highlands Cruise
By Robin McKelvie
There is nothing quite like cruising Thomas Telford’s utterly unique Caledonian Canal. And there is nothing quite like cruising the island-studded wilds of the Hebrides.
The very good news is that anyone can now experience both world-class options on one single cruise aboard the 38-passenger Lord of the Highlands, a game-changing vessel from Hebridean Island Cruises, the people behind Scotland’s most luxurious ship, the Hebridean Princess.
The 38-passenger Lord of the Highlands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
It’s fair to say that the Lord of the Highlands has had its fair share of teething problems. COVID curtailed its start, before its maiden season was delayed last year when renovations on the 200-year-old Caledonian Canal overran.
Then came the final ignominy when the vessel’s bow thrusters proved insufficient for the tight, tricky confines of the Caledonian Canal and she was withdrawn early in her maiden season in 2022.
Day 1 — Aboard Lord of the Highlands
It is with some relief then that we set sail on my third attempt to sail with her. We leave from Inverness after a night alongside. That is another huge selling point for the Lord of the Highlands.
On every other small Scottish cruise ship I have been on (including the Hebridean Princess), you spend many nights at anchor, needing a tender to shore, which can be bumpy and sometimes not even possible.
During this week-long Highland Waterways Discovery cruise aboard Lord of the Highlands, we are alongside every night and never take a tender once.
The 7-night Highland Waterways Discovery cruise from Inverness to Kyle of Lochash. * Map: Hebrides Islands Cruises
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Day 2 — Battlefields & Mythic Loch Monsters on a Lord of the Highlands Cruise
Today brings the option of an excursion to the infamous battlefield of Culloden — there are tours every day to a range of historic or scenic attractions. As Scotland is draped in history and remarkable scenery, this is a true pleasure.
There is a qualified Scottish guide, Jean Blair, on board who really knows her stuff.
“I love sharing our rich heritage and our gorgeous part of the world with the passengers,” she beams as we steam across famous Loch Ness. “Our guests really enjoy Scotland’s colorful stories and leave blown away by our scenery.”
Loch Ness is a waterway on a massive scale by UK standards. If you take all the water in all the lakes in England and Wales together it still couldn’t fill the home of the legendary Loch Ness Monster, Nessie.
We don’t see the monster this time, but it’s a gorgeous fjord-like passage nonetheless that ends with us overnighting at the top of the lock flight at Fort Augustus.
The Caledonian Canal is an epic feat of engineering, bisecting Scotland between the North Sea and the Atlantic through a series of 28 locks and a quartet of lochs.
The Lord of the Highlands is not only the biggest vessel I’ve traversed the canal on, but it’s the largest one I’ve ever seen attempting it.
Lord of the Highlands squeezing through the Caledonian Canal. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Day 3 — Cruising Among Highland Mountains
Day three is another canal day as we eke along under a natural panorama of hulking Highland mountains, enjoying the spring wildflowers and blossoming trees.
Life onboard is a leisurely affair, one of the three passenger decks (the Tweedsmuir Deck) is entirely given over to eating and drinking: a restaurant aft and a large lounge and bar fore.
Lord of the Highlands’ scenic restaurant views. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
The lounge aboard Lord of the Highlands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
They’ve done a brilliant job of converting a modern ferry into a classy cruiser that evokes the spirit of the Hebridean Princess without ever quite touching her heights.
She is new and also is priced at a lower level. The passenger crew to ratio is impressive too, with 38 passengers attended to by 18 crew.
Lord of the Highlands’ Crew
We have two different relief skippers on our voyage, with continuity supplied by the impressive Andy Allan. This Hotel Manager oversees everything and not just food and drink — approaching the Isle of Eigg he leaps ashore like a salmon on to the pier to take the ropes.
Robin and Andy aboard the Lord of the Highlands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Robin and Andy kitted out in traditional garb. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
He is ably backed up by a young team of bright young — mainly British — crew.
Two stars are ever-smiling super-helpful Ashley and Alissa in the well-stocked bar. Scotch whiskies are an obvious highlight with some excellent drams.
You can match each area you visit with a whisky.
Ashely serving drinks. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Dining on a Lord of the Highlands Cruise
The restaurant also remains solidly Scottish. We feast on the likes of Gigha halibut, Pentland lamb and Borders beef.
Tasty halibut. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
One lunch we savor a seafood buffet and the last of the two gala dinners sees the traditional dish of haggis piped in by a bagpiper with Andy performing the ‘Address to a Haggis.’
Seafood buffet lunch aboard Lord of the Highlands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
It’s fun, but not too formal — even on the gala nights it’s not black tie.
Robin dining aboard Lord of the Highlands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Day 4 — More Locks & Wild Critters
On day four we navigate the sea locks at Fort William and sail in the shadow of the UK’s highest mountain, Ben Nevis, before heading south into the Hebrides.
Ben Nevis. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Loch Linnhe ranks up the wildlife.
We spot a herd of wild red deer — the UK’s largest land mammal — and a trio of otters, a gaggle of seals and myriad seabirds.
Wildlife viewing aboard Lord of the Highlands. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
This is not advertised as a wildlife cruise, but any sailing to the Hebrides always is.
There is time to enjoy a visit to the bustling ferry port of Oban, before our first island overnight on Mull.
Docked in Oban. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Day 5 — Spotting Lots of Wildlife on Our Lord of the Highlands Cruise
I wake on day five to the sight of an otter making his way along the rugged shore.
Cutting west I spot a massive sea eagle on the sailing to the island capital of Tobermory.
Lord of the Highlands in Tobermory. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
It’s a gorgeous day for an afternoon and evening exploring this lovely village. I enjoy a dram at the Tobermory Distillery, seafood lunch out, nip into a few shops, and ramble to a lighthouse, with the Lord of the Highlands constantly there when I want to pop back aboard.
Day 6 — Tackling the Ardnamurchan Head Waters
On paper day six is our trickiest sea day tackling the notoriously tumultuous waters of Ardnamurchan Head.
However, it could scarcely be calmer, so calm we spot three separate minke whales in one day here in the Hebrides, a part of the world so inspiring Mendelson wrote a whole overture in its honor.
VIDEO: Below is a rendition of Mendelssohn’s Hebrides Overture, which he composed in 1830 after a visit to Scotland.
You don’t need art or music to generate drama on our two ports of call today.
The Isle of Eigg arrives as a testament to the spirt of community. Many of the Scottish islands suffer under the weight of unsuitable or even uncaring owners. Eigg doesn’t: in 1997 the community was allowed to buy their own island and they have not looked back — growing the population and in 2008 becoming the first island in the world to generate all of their own electricity through green sources.
Passengers have the chance to put some money into that community at the impressive new island hub An Laimhrig with its twin shops and café.
The interesting Isle of Eigg, * Photo: Robin McKelvie
It is then on to another community with a positive story and atmosphere. Knoydart is home to the British mainland’s most remote pub, the Old Forge, which last year the community managed to take ownership of after a long struggle.
Much of the rest of this deeply dramatic mountainous peninsula is community-owned too and visiting is a window into a world with lessons perhaps for us. It’s a place that certainly makes you think about how things can be done.
Lord of the Highlands in Knoydart. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
The Last Day 0f Our Lord of the Highlands Cruise
Our last day sees an early arrival into Kyle of Lochalsh. It removes any stressful variables as we’re tied up where we need to be nice and early.
This allows a morning excursion to the shortbread tin beauty of Eilean Donan Castle, which starred in the film Highlander and also in James Bond films.
Lunch on board is followed by a trip to Plockton, arguably the prettiest village in Scotland, a fittingly dramatic end to a cruise that has brought the best of both worlds on the Caledonian Canal and the isles of the Hebrides.
Lord of the Highlands calls on Plockton. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Lord of the Highlands Cruise Quick Facts
Itineraries/Fares
Hebridean Island Cruises sail the Lord of the Highlands on seven-night Highland Waterways Discovery trips from through the Caledonian Canal from Inverness to Kyle of Lochalsh from spring through to autumn.
Per person fares are GDP £3,990 all inclusive, including bus transfer back to Inverness.
Other itineraries are outlined on their website.
Leaving the Caledonian Canal through the sea lock. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Getting There
These days there are a number of direct flights from North America to Scotland. You can fly to the Scottish capital of Edinburgh or Glasgow direct from North America.
Trains run from both cities to Inverness (www.scotrail.co.uk).
Tips for Cruising on Lord of the Highlands
Take a copy of Hamish Haswell-Smith’s Scottish Islands. This sailor compiled the most comprehensive and useful guide to the isles before he died in 2020. It’s a fascinating read and the perfect cruising companion for the Hebrides.
And A.D. Cameron’s The Caledonian Canal delves deep into its remarkable story.
A.D. Cameron’s The Caledonian Canal
Weather on a Lord of the Highlands Cruise
Scotland is this green with a reason as it can rain whenever you visit. The cruising season runs from spring through to autumn.
May and September are good choices as they tend to be drier and there is less chance of having to contend with the baleful midge, a harmless but annoying small insect ashore.
August is the warmest month, but can also be wet.
The beauty of green Scotland thrives on rain, so expect some. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Money Matters
The British Pound is the official currency, with Scottish banks printing their own notes that are legal tender throughout the UK. Credit cards and cash widely accepted.
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Interested in a Lord of the Highlands Cruise?
The 7-night Highlands Waterways Discovery all-inclusive cruise, starting at £3,990 per person (about $5,000 USD), includes:
- excursions
- gratuities
- onboard guide
- drinks — house wines, spirits, beer, soft drinks, and coffee/tea
For more information on a Lord of the Highlands cruise, click here.
Alissa serving wine aboard Lord of the Highlands, which is included in the fares. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
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HEIDI SARNA
