Riverside Ravel Cruise Review — Peter Knego Glides Along France’s Rhone River On A Former Crystal Vessel

Riverside Ravel Cruise Review

By Peter Knego

Among the Quirky cruising highlights of 2023 was the return of two of the former Crystal Cruises river vessels under the management of new luxury river line, Riverside Cruises.

In the spring, they brought the one-off, double-wide Mozart back into service on the Danube (click here to see Quirky Cruises’ John Robert’s review of the Riverside Mozart) and in August, the lovely Ravel returned to the Rhone.

Author Peter Knego (r) and hubby Mike Masino with the 110-pax Riverside Ravel in Lyon. * Photo: Peter Knego

I was one of the lucky guests to experience the Ravel’s 3-night inaugural cruise from Avignon to Lyon this past August.

This was a one-off sailing to introduce the Ravel to media and travel advisors, sampling a few of the ports the ship visits on the Rhone. Riverside has several itineraries from Avignon and Lyon that range from three to seven nights.

Along with the DeBussy, Bach and Mahler, the 110-passenger Ravel is one of four identical ships built for Crystal ’s European river operations and made her debut with Bordeaux-based cruises on the Garonne in 2018. After Crystal folded in 2022, all four of these ships and the Mozart were laid up before being purchased by Riverside.

The Ravel is the first of this class to return, having been transferred from the Atlantic coast of France to the Mediterranean via a massive yacht transport vessel earlier this year before getting a stem to stern refurbishment.

Riverside DeBussy starts service in March 2024 on the Rhine River.

In October 2023, Riverside leased the Bach and Mahler to Uniworld for three years, to cruise as the Super Ship Victoria and Elisabeth, respectively.

READ MORE: Quirky’s Anne Kalosh reports on the Uniworld charter here.

Ravel, Deck By Deck

As with all inaugural sailings, especially in this post-pandemic era with hiring and the global supply chain challenges, it was far too early to fully assess and review the Riverside product during our short cruise but what they had to offer at that early stage was impressively promising.

The Riverside Ravel impressed. * Photo: Peter Knego

The staff were courteous, eager to please and efficient and the vessel is nothing short of stunning.

The 110-passenger Riverside Ravel is one of the most beautiful river cruise ships I have had the pleasure of experiencing thus far. Externally, she exudes a streamline “moderne” look with a vertical bow and sleek superstructure trimmed in green with shaded and green glass panels.

The Riverside Ravel switching berths at Lyon. * Photo: Peter Knego

There are four guest decks, beginning at the top with Vista Deck (4) which has a bar that can be lowered via hydraulics into the deck below when the ship is navigating low bridges.

The Vista Bar can be lowered into the deck below to clear low bridges. * Photo: Peter Knego

There is a shaded outdoor seating area with padded loungers and deck chairs. There is also a barbecue and grill area that can be set up for deck parties and dining events.

The sheltered seating area on Vista Deck. * Photo: Peter Knego

Riverside Deck (3) begins with an open observation terrace on the bow, continuing inside with the Palm Court Lounge that can seat all guests at once.

Riverside Deck has an open bow terrace, which is especially nice when Vista Deck (4) is closed due to low lying bridges. * Photo: Peter Knego

By day, a quiet lounge with full length windows on each side and bathed in natural light via large glass skylights, it becomes the main evening hub when its dance floor, bar and grand piano are put to use.

The Palm Court Lounge in an aft-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

The Bistro Cafe, which has a variety of snacks and freshly brewed specialty coffees, including some truly excellent cappuccinos, on a mostly round-the-clock basis, follows.

The Bistro Cafe in a forward-facing view along the starboard side. * Photo: Peter Knego

It was almost impossible to have just one cappuccino at the Bistro Cafe. * Photo: Peter Knego

Accessed on the forward port side of the Bistro Cafe, the Vintage Room is a 10-seat wine pairing dining experience that commands a€295 EURO cover per guest.

The Vintage Room, facing forward. * Photo: Peter Knego

An elegant spiral staircase descends from the  Bistro Cafe foyer, surrounding a glass elevator that  resembles a pod transporter from Star Trek in its center.

The tubular elevator aboard Riverside Ravel. * Photo: Peter Knego

Beyond the stairs, accommodations continue aft on Riverside Deck to a current-pool topped with a skylight and an enclosed lido with seating on either side.

The indoor pool area on aft Riverside Deck has cushioned loungers and a skylight. * Photo: Peter Knego

The pool was an especially nice retreat during our trip, which was beleaguered by a record-breaking heat wave that made the outer decks feel like roasting in an air fryer.

Seahorse Deck (2), begins with the aptly named Waterside Restaurant, which has full length windows framing water level views. There is a buffet style service area just forward where breakfast and lunch selections are laid out in various action stations.

The handsome Waterside Restaurant foyer. * Photo: Peter Knego

The Waterside Restaurant in an aft-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

The forward portion of the U-shaped restaurant spans the width of the ship, continuing on either side with galleries of seating.

Directly aft of the restaurant is the reception foyer, which surrounds the spiral staircase.

The reception area, facing aft. * Photo: Peter Knego

In the forward portion of the lobby, there is a self-service espresso and tea corner with pastries, cookies and other grab-and-go edibles as well as a fridge with bottled waters and soft drinks. Accommodations follow aft from here.

The reception’s self service espresso and refreshment corner. * Photo: Peter Knego

Harmony Deck (1), which is partially below the waterline, has a spa treatment room with a menu of massage therapies for purchase, a gym with Technogym equipment and a self-service laundromat with machines that might require an MIT doctorate to decipher.

The spa treatment room. * Photo: Peter Knego

The gym has free weights and Technogym machines. * Photo: Peter Knego

That said, once the operational mysteries were solved, the laundry room came in particularly handy for those of us who had combined the trip with a longer stay and needed fresh clothes for the second part of our journey.

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The Sweetest Of Suites Aboard Riverside Ravel

Guest accommodations on river vessels have come a long way in recent years and these are among the finest I’ve seen.

The smallest, 194-square-foot Symphony Suites (Deck 3) and Melody Suites (Deck 2), can be laid out with either a king sized bed or two twins.

They feature deluxe bedding sets (Scandinavian duvets, pillow menu, King-size pillows, fine Egyptian cotton linens and towels), vanity table/writing desk, armchair and closet (shelving, full-height hanging, removable lower rail).

Even the smallest suites, like this 194-square foot Symphony Suite, are beautifully appointed and comfortable. * Photo: Peter Knego

A Symphony Suite closet. * Photo: Peter Knego

Symphony Suite bathrooms are more compact with just one sink basin. * Photo: Peter Knego

All suites are furnished with:

• an espresso coffee maker,
• adjustable-extendable table (coffee/dining),
• refrigerator/mini-bar (stocked with complimentary soft drinks, beer, bottled water),
• wall-mounted 40-inch HDTV,
• alarm clock,
• direct-dial phone (satellite connections),
• personal safe (hidden in the closet),
• hand-made artworks,
• nightstands (bedside lamps, USB ports, wireless charge pad),
• individual air-conditioning,
• laptop Data Port,
• 110V/220V power sockets,
• welcome gifts (Champagne, chocolates, flowers),
• rechargeable Quietvox headphones for excursions,
• butler service (unpacking, packing, excursion reservations, in room dining, etc).

There are espresso machines in every suite. * Photo: Peter Knego

A most welcome sight, a bottle of bubbly and fanciful sweets! * Photo: Peter Knego

The Quietvox headphones are always a nice touch on excursion * Photo: Peter Knego

Private bathrooms in all suites come with:

• drawers,
• towel shelf,
• heated towel rail,
• heated floor,
• back-lit mirror,
• glass-door shower stall,
• overhead plus hand-held shower heads,
• brand hairdryer,
• 110V and 220V power sockets,
• terry bathrobes,
• plush slippers,
• shower caps,
• ETRO premium toiletries (shampoo, body lotion, conditioner).

The excellent illumination options in each suite bathroom. * Photo: Peter Knego

Glass-enclosed showers have hand-held and rainforest heads. * Photo: Peter Knego

The most numerous and popular accommodations, Seahorse and Riverside Suites, measure between 237 and 253 square feet and have all the amenities of the Symphony Suites but with more floor space, a walk-in closet and a larger bathroom with twin basins.

Beds face the windows in Riverside Suites. * Photo: Peter Knego

An inboard-facing view of a Riverside Suite. * Photo: Peter Knego

Riverside Suites have walk-in closets. * Photo: Peter Knego

Bathrooms in Riverside Suites have double vanities. * Photo: Peter Knego

At the top tier are a pair of spectacular 506-square foot Ravel Suites that can be combined with a neighboring Riverside Suite to form 759-square foot Owner’s Suites.

The spacious living room of a Ravel Suite. * Photo: Peter Knego

The bedroom of a Ravel Suite. * Photo: Peter Knego

Ravel Suites boast a large living room with an LED non-heat fireplace, a walk-in closet the size of a small cabin, a huge bathroom with a separate WC and even a private writing nook. When combined with a Riverside Suite, there is a second full bathroom, another walk-in closet and a second bedroom.

A Ravel Suite bathroom is worth writing home about. * Photo: Peter Knego

A Ravel Suite walk in closet. * Photo: Peter Knego

In addition to their size, Ravel Suite appointments are spectacular and include sophisticated soft fittings with muted colors and pleasing patterns, with a splash of crimson to liven things up. The fireplace is surfaced in carrara marble as are the bathrooms and the floor/deck tiling is most pleasing with its Escher-esque honeycombed cube pattern (that after a glass of wine almost looks three dimensional).

Escher-esque floor tiles make looking down a treat. * Photo: Peter Knego

We boarded on a sweltering August morning in Avignon, which is the ideal starting point on a northbound Rhone cruise.

Avignon from across the Rhone. * Photo: Peter Knego

Peter’s 3-night Rhone River Cruise Itinerary At A Glance

Day 1— Avignon, France (embark)

Day 2 — Pont Du Gard & Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France

Day 3 — Tournon, France

Day 4— Lyon, France (disembark)

Note: Ravel offers 3- to 7-night cruises between Lyon and Avignon visiting different combinations of ports along the way. More details HERE.

Riverside Ravel cruise map of the Rhone Itineraries.

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Day One — Roasting On The Rhone, Embarking In Avignon

Avignon, of course, is best known for Pont Saint-Benezet, the chapel-topped stone arch bridge that once had 22 arches and crossed the Rhone. Today, it is more of a jetty with only four of its arches remaining, although it is steeped in legend, many thanks to the French standard, “Sur Le Pont d’Avignon.”

Pont Saint-Benezet, the inspiration for the famed French song. * Photo: Peter Knego

Possibly even more imposing, the 14th-century Palais des Papes looms over the cityscape and is just as impressive from within, sporting 14th-century frescoes and towering halls and chapels. Between 1309 and 1377, it was the seat of the Catholic popes.

Posing at the Palais des Papes. * Photo: Peter Knego

Having visited several times on prior occasions, I opted out of the afternoon walking tour and foolishly decided to go for a run, almost passing out in the 40 degree Celsius (104 Fahrenheit!!) temps.

One good thing was that my self-guided trek took me across the river, where I could get some nice photos of Avignon and our handsome ship, which was otherwise hard to capture with all the thick shrubbery impeding her starboard side.

The Riverside Ravel basking on her first afternoon in Avignon. * Photo: Peter Knego

Although it was a bit early to draw any conclusions about the cuisine at that stage in the ship’s return to service, I was captivated with the wines and several of that evening’s dinner courses, including a rare vegetarian French onion soup (not made with beef stock), a lovely brie-topped salad, seared scallops, a tender crispy chicken entree and a tangy, caramelized apple tart.

That rarest of rare vegetarian French Onion Soup. * Photo: Peter Knego

Summer Lettuce With Pistachio, Grapes and Brie. * Photo: Peter Knego

Seared Scallops With Porcini Ham. * Photo: Peter Knego

Grilled Chicken Breast With Baked Potatoes — one of the “Riverside Classics” choices. * Photo: Peter Knego

Caramelized Apple Tart. Photo: Peter Knego

During dinner, the Ravel had cast her lines and began her a short journey upstream. By the time we finished dessert, we were nearing the moorings of Roquemare, where she would tie up for the night.

The Riverside Ravel’s lovely ambiance on deck at night. * Photo: Peter Knego

Exhausted from our travels, we made it an early eve, especially since the heat index on deck, even without the brilliant sun, was nothing short of wilt-inducing.

Day Two — Of Oars, Arches And Vineyards … From Pont Du Gard To Chateauneuf-du-Pape

Breakfast was laid out buffet style with an omelet station and what I am told was some of the best bacon afloat (confession, I don’t eat red meat but some of my best friends do).

The bacon and omelet station for brekky. * Photo: Peter Knego

There were some excellent pastries and fresh melons but I have to confess for the level of product Riverside provides, the yogurt and cereal choices were disappointing. Especially in France, where some truly excellent and authentic yogurts and grains are available.

American-style yogurts and cereals. * Photo: Peter Knego

All was more than compensated for with the cappuccinos, which could be ordered from the Bistro upstairs and were utter, frothy perfection. Make it a double and then another, please!

On our way to the coach, we grabbed some bottled water and some of the protein bars I had brought from home, just in case. A 30-minute or so ride delivered us to a small farm area where a fleet of kayaks beckoned from the shores of the River Gardon.

The day’s heat index was even higher at 41 Celsius, so being close to and splashed by the soothing river waters was a most welcome way to spend the next three hours.

A kayak’s perspective of the verdant banks of the Gardon. * Photo: Peter Knego

Yes, three hours!

Here is where I should mention that the Riverside target demographic is active, fun-seeking and adventurous with a median age range in the 40s, versus the 60s of fellow luxury lines, including the now defunct Crystal River Cruises.

Were it not for the incessant sun and heat, I would have savored every second of this fascinating kayaking adventure along verdant shores, limestone formations and the spectacular Pont du Garde, a 160-foot-tall Roman aqueduct dating from the first century AD.

Pont du Garde passage. * Photo: Peter Knego

It is one of the most magnificent sights, especially when beheld from a diminutive kayak crossing underneath its limestone arches.

The pace of the three-hour tour was unrelenting and it was a bit harrowing at times when we got marooned in the shallows, clambering over slippery rocks to dislodge our stranded vessel. Near the end, our protein bars, which had been liquefied by the heat, came in very handy.

From what I gleaned on board that week, I’m pretty sure Riverside will be offering shorter versions of this adventure for those who would prefer something less intense.

I should also mention the Ravel has a fleet of complimentary bikes which are available for guests to use at their whim, although with all the excursions and our shortened itinerary, we weren’t able to partake.

That moment of truth. * Photo: Peter Knego

Our oars-manly efforts — no run would be needed that day — were soon rewarded with a delicious lunch and wine at the Panery winery.

The Panery winery. * Photo: Peter Knego

When we returned to the Ravel, she was berthed a bit farther upstream at Chateauneuf-du-Pape, where we had a chance to savor the air conditioning, shower and change for our next outing, a short trip to the local Bouachon Pavillon winery for a late afternoon tasting.

Sunset at Chateauneuf-du-Pape. * Photo: Peter Knego

Papal tasting at the Bouachon Pavilion winery. * Photo: Peter Knego

By the time we returned to the ship for dinner, we were a bit delirious from the heat, the earlier exertion and the double “wining.”

A very nice pesto pasta course stood out in that evening’s Waterside Restaurant offerings before we retreated to our air conditioned, Egyptian cotton-and-down-pillowed domain.

Day 3 — Tournon, Tune In and Time Out

After a nice sleep in, we headed to the Bistro for a pain au chocolate and a cappuccino that was almost immediately followed by a second as the Ravel ascended a lock.

It was another glorious but searing day outside that was slightly mitigated by a breeze as our handsome ship made her way past green banks and charming villages.

Enroute to Tournon from the vantage of port Riverside Deck. * Photo: Peter Knego

The Vista Deck in collapse mode to clear the Rhone’s low lying bridges. * Photo: Peter Knego

A nice touch with Riverside is that they offer an open bridge policy, navigation conditions permitting. With our short itinerary, this was my chance to pay the futuristic-looking wheelhouse a visit.

The wheelhouse of the Riverside Ravel. * Photo: Peter Knego

We proceeded to the Waterside Restaurant, watching from our window seats as the Ravel neared Tournon, passing underneath its beautiful Marc Seguin Bridge, one of the world’s first suspension bridges, built in 1849.

My daily lunch began with a delicious salad from the buffet.

A bit of salad to go with the shaved parmesan. * Photo: Peter Knego

There was a walking tour of Tournon — alas, it was just too hot for a walk in the midday sun, so we opted for the second choice, a tour to Cheval Palace, especially since we thought it might be air conditioned. Here is where I should add that at this early stage in the Ravel’s career, there was scant information available on the cabin televisions about the tours.

I discussed this with one of the line’s executives who told me that there would be no powerpoint presentations about the itineraries like those offered on typical cruise ships — it would be up to the guests to educate themselves on what they would like to do or ask at the reception for tour details.

The result of this was that only three people opted for this tour, which was one of the most delightful surprises of the week.

As our mostly empty coach meandered through the French countryside to the Dome Hills, we soon learned that our envisioned tour of a vast air-conditioned palace was actually an outdoor trek around the fascinating, fantastic creation of a 19th-century postman named Cheval.

Cheval’s Palais Real. * Photo: Peter Knego

For 33 years, beginning in 1879, he created a stone, fossil and cement castle he dubbed Palais Real, using bits of Mughal, Egyptian and other architectural influences. Visitors can walk into and around this magnificent creation, which can be likened to a cross between Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia and Simon Rodia’s Watts Towers.

Spindly details of the Palais Real. * Photo: Peter Knego

Although once again wilted, we were inspired and captivated with this tour, which will hopefully not be the best kept secret of a Riverside Ravel Rhone cruise in the future.

Back at our sleek vessel that afternoon, we did manage to make it over to the Seguin Bridge, which is now used only for pedestrian traffic, then invigorated ourselves with another cappuccino.

Tournon’s historic Seguin Bridge. * Photo: Peter Knego

Dinner that evening was a gala barbecue on deck under the beautifully lit ramparts of Tournon.

Al fresco dinner set up on Vista Deck. * Photo: Peter Knego

The Vista Bar at night. * Photo: Peter Knego

The ramparts of Tournon. * Photo: Peter Knego

After dinner, we cast our lines and passed through a brilliantly lit lock, on our way to Lyon.

Nighttime lock passage en route to Lyon. * Photo: Peter Knego

Day 4 — The Lion’s Share Of Lyon

The next morning, we parted our curtains to a view of Lyon, which was bathed in the morning light. Alas, the heatwave was unrelenting, with temps hovering in that dreaded 40-degree (100+ Fahrenheit) range, but that was not to deter us from partaking of the city tour.

Melting in Lyon! * Photo: Peter Knego

Our first stop was the magnificent basilica — it sits atop a bluff overlooking Lyon, which is beautifully set within the convergence of the Saone and Rhone Rivers. While it was clear and the views were spectacular, we could barely make out the silhouette of the distant Alps, which can be seen on even clearer days.

Lyon’s towering Notre Dame basilica. * Photo: Peter Knego

The cathedral, itself, is of imposing dimensions and sports breathtaking stained glass panels.

The interior of Notre Dame du Lyon. * Photo: Peter Knego

From there, we were given a walking tour along the cobblestone streets of the old town, including some of its “secret avenues” that pass through residential buildings, then settled for lunch, which was included at a local restaurant.

Lyon’s spectacular old town, bathed in the early afternoon light. * Photo: Peter Knego

Looking up from one of Lyon’s “ secret avenues” that pass through residential buildings. * Photo: Peter Knego

After that, guests could either wander around town or take the coach back to the Ravel. After eyeing some of the boutiques earlier, we opted to wander a bit before returning to that cherished air conditioning.

Old versus new in Lyon, a modern city with an historic past. * Photo: Peter Knego

Once back, we enjoyed a glass of champagne in the rarified surrounds of Vintage and another farewell toast, hosted by the captain and staff in the Palm Court before dinner in the Waterside Restaurant.

Leaving In Lyon

It all went by too quickly as we disembarked and stepped into a cab that whisked us off to our hotel. The Ravel would spend another night in Lyon before embarking new guests for her first southbound voyage along the Rhone.

Riverside Ravel operates on three-, four- and seven-night cruises between Avignon and Lyon from spring to fall with rates beginning at € 1,847 Euros per person.

Riverside Cruises are available in four pricing tiers:

• Full Board (with excursions and beverages available for purchase)
• Full Board Including Excursions (with beverages available for purchase)
• Full Board Including Beverages (with excursions available for purchase)
• Premium All Inclusive (includes beverages and excursions)

Riverside’s website, www.riversidecruises.com is still a work in progress, so be sure to also contact your travel agent for details.

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