Hebridean Princess is Back in Scotland

Hebridean Princess is Back in Scotland

By Robin McKelvie, Quirky’s Scotland-based Small Ship Lover

Her name gives it away.

The Hebridean Princess is a regal vessel built to cruise the wild and wildly beautiful waters of Scotland’s Hebridean archipelago. But COVID brought her sojourns, around a landscape so dramatic it moved Mendelssohn to write an overture, to a halt.

She didn’t sail with a passenger in Scotland for over 500 days, and COVID eventually drove her south when England lifted cruising restrictions ahead of Scotland.

But now with a reposition cruise around the four nations, Hebridean Princess is back in Scotland, and as I write as I’m steaming in on the “Queen of Ships” — more on that later — to her home port of Oban for the first time in two years. So, all is well and back to normal. However, depending on the year, cruises do go south to call at ports in Northern Ireland, Ireland, Wales, Isle of Man, English and French ports mostly in the English Channel and east to Belgium.

Subscribe to our monthly small ship cruise email

Subscribe to QuirkyCruise.com for monthly curated newsletters highlighting our top small cruise ship reviews, round-ups & offers!

The fact that the small independent company behind this gloriously converted old car ferry, launched in 1964 as Columba, is still going always strike me as miraculous.

Each year when she is drydocked, I’m always relieved to find her once again steaming down the Firth of Clyde in search of Oban and her beloved Hebrides.

The lovely lines of the 50-pax Hebridean Princess. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Hebridean Princess’ Four Nation Cruise

And that is where I joined her for this four-nation cruise.

I joined at an interesting time in other ways too. The British Government is on the look out for a new ship as a replacement for the Royal Yacht Britannia (retired in 1997; now a floating museum in Edinburgh), which the British Royal Family often used to cruise their beloved Hebrides.

In the interim years the Queen has chartered the Hebridean Princess. Twice.

On this cruise I found out from as knowledgeable a passenger as you could ever meet – John Noorani, who has written a book about the Hebridean Princess — that the Royal interest fits as she was one of the three “Citadel ships.”

These were ferries built with a secret dual role when the Cold War was raging to protect the Royals in the event of World War Three.

RELATED: Hebridean Princess “Ship of Queens.”  by Robin McKelvie.

Cruising the Hebrides. * Photo: Robin Mckelvie.  With only 50 passengers the Hebridean Princess feels as safe a ship as I can imagine in these stressful times. There is a lot of deck space, which again adds to the feeling of being safe and secure.

. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Lunch is also sometimes served out on deck in the clean fresh air. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Whisky of Course, to Soothe the Soul

Mercifully up in the Tiree Lounge the same timeless, forget-about-the-world vibe awaits like before. Breeze in and you’ll soon have your favorite cocktail in your hand, or one of their excellent range of malt whiskies.

Whisky in Tiree Lounge. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Chief Purser Iain Gibson is an Islay man, and it shows in his knowledge of the drams.

It showed too in the glorious whisky tasting he led on deck as we returned to the Hebrides and cruised through the distillery-sprinkled Sound Of Islay.

Islay Laphroaig distillery. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

England’s Historic Plymouth

Before the Hebrides, though, we had three other nations to explore.

Hebridean Princess tender heading to shore. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

A quick swirl through southern England saw a stop in historic Plymouth — where the “Pilgrim Fathers” sailed from — and also Fowey in Cornwall, where we relaxed our way through a gloriously botanical garden.

Shore visit to Plymouth with Hebridean Princess guide in kilt. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Hebridean Princess in Cornwall. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

A trip highlight followed with the little cruised Scilly Isles. Here we tendered ashore and I set off for a hike that swept around half of the isle of St Mary’s.

In brilliant sunshine I circled empty sandy bays, rambled around Neolithic sites and wandered across the quaint clifftop airport runway, which warned me not to cross when the light was flashing or buzzing!

Southern Wales & Holyhead

Pushing north now we left England and sailed into southern Wales and on to Fishguard. It proved a handy stopping-off point for the smallest city in the UK, St. David’s, whose centerpiece is a cathedral that looks half Harry Potter and half Disney castle.

In northern Wales we berthed alongside in Holyhead and scooted on a short bus transfer to South Stack Lighthouse.

We eked up and down the 400 steps, worth it to see the famous lighthouse and also the white-tipped Risso’s Dolphin who was enjoying a bountiful lunch close in to shore.

Ashore in Wales to see the South Stack Lighthouse. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Northern Ireland

Steaming west now we were Northern Ireland bound. A day and night in Belfast allowed both a morning exploring this rapidly changing city and an afternoon in the award-winning Titanic Museum, arguably Northern Ireland’s top tourist attraction. Belfast is a city that is rapidly putting its troubled political past behind it to emerge as one of the most popular city break destinations in the UK.

Next up was a very easy sail down Belfast Lough for an overnight in Bangor. This old waterside resort charms itself and was also handy for slipping south to Grey Abbey House for a tour and lunch.

Hebridean Princess is Back in Scotland

While the three nations all had their own charms we were bound now properly for home.

I got up early to watch the Mull of Kintyre loom out of the gloom. This ancient waypoint for mariners since the days when Romans and Vikings battled for these waters with the resident Celts, can be a formidable barrier to fight around.

The moody Mull of Kintyre. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Fittingly the Mull welcomed us back to Scottish waters gently with the mists evoking Paul McCartney’s Mull of Kintyre ballad.

The sun was soon back as the Hebridean Princess strode on through slight seas seemingly delighted, as both the crew and passengers visibly were, to finally be home.

The celebrations were swift in coming, a typically dramatic and perfectly executed beach landing on Islay.

RELATED:  Footloose to the Clyde on the Hebridean Princess.  by Ben Lyons

RELATED: The ABCs of Cruising Scotland’s Western Isles.  by Ted Scull

Ashore in Islay

After we were caressed ashore, I forged onwards on the bike that the crew magicked ashore, to take in a couple of world-famous whisky distilleries — Laphroaig and Lagavulin.

Whisky & cycling on Islay. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Robin with a wee dram on Islay!

Hebridean Vibes

Our last day was deeply Hebridean too.

We eked along under big sunny skies with the isles coming thick and fast. I spotted Gigha to the east, soon lost as we turned north up the Sound of Islay to squeeze between Islay and the hulking Isle of Jura, where George Orwell wrote 1984.

WOW! Cruising by Jura. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

In Scotland’s Inner Hebrides, the isle of Colonsay took over to port and Scarba to starboard. I didn’t think it could get any better standing by the bridge — it’s always open for a chat and to watch the traditional Chadburn still being used — first a minke whale eased out slipped gracefully by the bow.

It was soon followed by another, which spectacularly breached out of the water.

Subscribe to our monthly small ship cruise email

Subscribe to QuirkyCruise.com for monthly curated newsletters highlighting our top small cruise ship reviews, round-ups & offers!

Wildlife Feast

Over nine nights we enjoyed a feast of wildlife with bottlenose and common dolphins, porpoises, seals and even an elusive otter. We even sighted dolphins and porpoises from the Columba Restaurant.

I’ve been aboard Hebridean Princess five times and on my last cruise in 2019 the food had been a little disappointing. The COVID break seems to have helped them get things back on track.

Fine Dining Scottish Style

They’ve got that balance between executing fine dining, whilst still keeping things authentically Scottish.

Robin dining in the Columba restaurant. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

We’re talking Hebridean poached lobster tail and Panko claw, or grilled fillet of Shetland halibut.

A delicious seafood medley. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Dinner is served! West Coast King Scallops. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

The roast fillet of perfectly pink Tweed Valley beef with pont neuf potatoes and watercress Bearnaise was a gala dinner highlight.

And, of course, there was the haggis, which was bagpiped in, and then toasted with a wee dram and the verse of Scotland’s national bard Robert Burns.

The haggis proved a fitting finale. Just hours later we were easing back into Oban Bay for the first time in two years.

Hopeful & Looking Ahead

Our very own “Captain Kirk,” Kirk Blacker, could scarcely have been any happier:

“We’re home, that’s the main sentiment, the main emotion. As much as we love the south coast this is where the ship is meant to be operating. There is a real sense of relief and excitement that we are home and we get to visit the places we love so much.”

It felt good for guests too. First timer Dr Michael Ross was impressed: “She’s a unique ship I’ve always wanted to get on. That urge grew stronger the longer she was tied up, so I’m over the moon to be aboard. It certainly won’t be my last trip as I aim to come back on a more traditional cruise around Scottish waters.”

Looking ahead bookings are looking strong for the Hebridean Princess, due to re-bookings from COVID, but also as people in the UK look for more local holidays, and then cruisers from further afield search for more authentic, more rewarding small ship experiences on quirky ships with a real sense of heritage. And small ships with stories that fires up the soul along with the scenery.

The Hebridean Princess will, of course, focus on the Hebrides in 2023, but, depending on the year, there may also be a number of sailings (which start earlier in February and run right until mid-November) that take in Ireland, Wales, the Channel Isles and France.

As we say in Scotland — haste ye back!

Robin knows he’ll be back! Here at lunch in the Columba restaurant.

Hebridean Princess Back in Scotland

If looking to book the very special Hebridean Princess, tell them you read about them on QuirkyCruise.com!

GO HERE for Scottish Government COVID regulations for travelers

The only current rule is for air travelers from China arriving in England first before traveling onto Scotland. Click on the above for details.

Sunset on the Hebridean Princess. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Quick Facts

Rates — 7-night Hebridean Princess cruises start at £6,340 per person (about $8,800 USD per person).

Inclusions — Genuinely inclusive cruise where all food and drinks at lunch, dinner and in the Tiree Lounge are included. Also included, all excursions and room service too. Shop is only real (optional) cost.

Crew — On Robin’s cruise, the officers were British, the hotel side a mix of British and European Union, and the majority of wait staff was European Union.

Cabins — Robin stayed in the Isle of Colonsay twin/double cabin, on Princess Deck, with large windows, similar to below.

Contact — Hebridean Island Cruises.

The Berneray cabin, similar to Robin’s. * Photo: Hebridean Island Princess

Don’t miss a post about small-ship cruising, subscribe to QuirkyCruise.com for monthly updates & special offers!  

© This article is protected by copyright, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission from the author. All Rights Reserved. QuirkyCruise.com.