Burgundy Barge Cruise With Abercrombie & Kent

Burgundy Barge Cruise

By Ted Scull.

I made this Burgundy barge cruise with my wife Suellyn in 1996 and featured it in my book “100 Best Cruise Vacations” (3rd Edition). N.B. This guide is now out of print. This canal cruise is one of numerous, beloved small-ship cruise experiences over the years that inspired me to create QuirkyCruise.com with Heidi.

I would say the thrust of the canal barge experience is essentially still the same (in this case, slow canal travel, with beautiful Burgundy just beyond the railing, and a focus on food & wine). Over the years, it seems many barges are now aiming for the high-end market as “floating boutique hotels.” But, happily, not all are, so those interested in comfort and not paying extra for not-needed luxuries, do have a choice. But barging never was, nor is now, cheap travel.

Basilica Paray-le-Monial. * Photo: Ted Scull

Abercrombie & Kent (A&K) has been in the barge business since 1966 when a Francophile Englishman began to build a fleet.

My wife and I love France, so we decided to see one of the most beautiful regions in the country — Burgundy. Heretofore our trips in France had been by train or rented car or a mélange of the two, and a river cruise on the Rhone and Soane.

The last trip also gave us a taste of Burgundy, so this time we would spend all of our time there and do it at the slow pace of a barge.

L’Abercrombie is at rest in the Canal du Centre. * Photo: Ted Scull

The Barge Accommodations

Ours, L’Abercrombie, had been built in 1982 as a commercial barge then converted to take up to 22 passengers occupying four doubles and seven twins. While two twins with windows were located aft on the main deck, the rest of the accommodations, located on the lower deck, had portholes that opened.

The stowage was a reasonable-size closet and drawer space, and the tiny bathroom had a shower. The insolation from engine or outside noises was excellent and air-conditioning, at times, a welcome respite from the baking late August sun.

Below deck where most cabins are located are small, for sleeping only, with porthole behind curtain. * Photo: Ted Scull

Note: This barge has been retired, but many more are available.

TGV from Paris to Dijon

Our route to the ship began in Paris where the intending passengers met at a hotel on the Rue de Rivoli. We were then transferred by coach to the Gare de Lyon where we boarded a sleek TGV bound for Dijon located southeast of Paris.

Paris Gare de Lyon, terminal for the TGV to Dijon. * Photo: Ted Scull

Once the train left the suburbs, the speed increased to a steady 168 miles per hour.

Nearby buildings were a blur, and it was best to look long-range for views of villages dotting the ever-increasing rural landscape.

These very fast and efficient trains have transformed the way many French and visitors move about the country.

At Dijon, we transferred to Vandenesse-en-Auxios where L’Abercrombie was awaiting at a landing along the Burgundy Canal. By contrast to the TGV, soon we were moving at the pace of a slow walk.

After moving aboard three conveyances, I could feel myself begin to relax aboard our floating home for the next six days. Unpacking helped too.

Ted looks back on a Burgundy Barge Cruises

The foredeck is furnished as a deck lounge. * Photo: Ted Scull

The Dinner Bell Introduces the Subject of Food

A dinner bell summoned us at 8:00pm from the open foredeck and the lounge bar to the adjoining oak-paneled dining room, where we chose seats at one of the four candlelit tables.

We were joined by a British couple on an anniversary trip, and they proved to be good company, and we enjoyed additional meals with them but not so with a few others.

The small passenger list was divided between Brits and Yanks. The crew was Brits and English-speaking French.

Both lunch and dinner began with the chef providing brief descriptions of the red and white wines and the cheese course that would change daily.

Browsing a market on a Burgundy Barge Cruise

Suellyn checks the market from where the chef will source some of his food supplies. * Photo: Ted Scull

On the first evening, the appetizer was waiting in a phyllo pastry with sorel sauce, followed by grilled lamb with thyme, and a peach tart. On another occasion, we started with a mild gazpacho and continued with tender pork cutlets, ending with a chocolate mousse.

After dinner, some of us moved to the lounge as the bow and had an after-dinner drink while looking up at the stars that were positioned at different angles than at home.

Ted Scull relaxes on deck enjoying some down time at the end of the day. * Photo: Suellyn Scull

The barge had moved to a landing nearby the village of La Repe. Most were tired after the day’s journey, so we stayed on board and left the after-dinner stroll for another evening.

Lunch was a lighter meal that on the first full day included sausage in puff pastry, cold roast beef or pasta, and a variety of salads.

All the meals were creative, nicely presented, and delicious to the palate. These days, with so many people having specials needs or preferences, intending passengers are asked to let the line know in advance.

Table tables are set for breakfast. Notice the baskets of croissants, bought that morning from a local bakery a few minutes’ walk from the barge * Photo: Ted Scull

Our Burgundy Barge Cruise Visits Begin

The Burgundy itinerary that follows is just a sampling, one that we enjoyed. But do keep in mind, there are numerous variations, so a return to the area is an attractive possibility for those smitten with the lovely rolling countryside.

In brief, a small coach followed the barge and was made available to those who would like to see the surroundings. Our first half-day outing was to Chateau at Commarin where ownership has passed through 26 generations of the same family. We also went to the medieval village of Chateauneuf-en-Auxois where the tightly-packed houses surround an impressive castle.

Then moving along the canal to Pont d’Ouche, once the location of an important tile factory, there was time to mount a bicycle and peddle off to the nearby village recommended by the crew or for those who do not take to bikes, it’s a short walk.

Suellyn cycles across two rail lines with, to the right, a warning sign that reads one train may hide another. * Photo: Ted Scull

We then cycled along the smooth towpath to where the barge had paused for lunch. It was that simple.

We saw the handsome white Charolais cattle grazing here and in many locations throughout the cruise.

Herds of white Charolai cattle dot the countryside. * Photo: Ted Scull

The Background of Canals & Automation

The canals once handled lots of commercial traffic such as coal, the aforementioned locally manufactured tiles, and farm products.

Then came the railroads and motor vehicles on better roads, and canal freight largely disappeared.

Some rivers such as the Rhone and, of course, the Rhine are still conduits for freight.

Once a house built for the lock master. * Photo: Ted Scull

On one day, we passed through more than a dozen locks. Red and green lights indicate when one can proceed into a lock. Once inside and the gates closed, the automation has a deckhand pull a chain and the water level begins to rise quite quickly. The gate ahead then opens and the barge is on its way.

The Canal du Centre has some 61 locks, automated to make the passage simple and with just one deckhand. * Photo: Ted Scull

Wine & More Wine on our Burgundy Barge Cruise

Visits to chateaux and wineries were offered in the medieval village of Meursault dating from 1094 by charter from the once hugely important Cluny Abbey and the Cote de Beaune. Then two days after that, we went to the town of Beaune itself, Burgundy’s wine capital.

Beaune has one of the finest examples of medieval architecture in its Hotel Dieu, originally constructed as a charity hospital.

During the vineyard visit and then tasting, the crew returned with a case of wine for dinner and beyond.

Burgundy’s farmland, vineyards, villages, and valleys produce one beautiful landscape. * Photo: Ted Scull

Dijon, Burgundy’s regional capital, is also the leading market town.

An excursion visited the Ducal Palace, the stronghold of the Dukes of Burgundy, and allowed for a wander to the central market, one of our favorite destinations, especially if we are staying in an Airbnb.

Chateau de Couche was first built in the 11th century as a fortress for the Dukes of Burgundy. * Photo: Ted Scull

Cooking an occasional meal gives us short-term inhabitant status to experience the natural rhythm of a town or city via its markets.

The last day took us to Clos de Vougeot, a center for making wine since the 12^th century. Here the process was explained and antique presses were on display.

Returning to Dijon

Lastly, we then cruised into Dijon where the barge tied up for the night and enjoyed a festive farewell dinner. The next morning after breakfast we transferred to the TGV station and boarded the train for Paris.

Our first barge trip was a great success, and its pace is just right for taking in the many attractions and beautiful countryside that makes Burgundy so well known to and loved by many travelers.

While there may be many more visitors than in days past, traveling by a slow barge, on foot, and for some, ranging further by bicycle, puts one in close touch to the surroundings, where most tourists, often rushing about in cars or buses, cannot access so easily.

Bicycle are put over the side for exploring the area or simply following the towpath. * Photo: Ted Scull

Consider a full charter with your friends or family

If you can put together a small group, it makes sense to charter a barge or ask for a larger table to handle your group.

When the passenger count is low, say ten or less, the pool of fellow passengers is pretty shallow, and it can be tedious to figure out how you are going to eat with those you like and avoid the ones you don’t care for. Six days adds up to 18 meals and we found that a problem on our barge cruise.

Much of the content here was taken from the Third Edition of my guidebook, 100 Best Cruise Vacations. It is now out of print, and my efforts have been transferred to the Internet and QuirkyCruise. My colleague in this venture, Heidi Sarna, was very helpful in editing sections of the cruise book.