Judi Cuervo Reviews A Hebridean Princess Cruise — Here Are 14 Things That Surprised Her

14 Hebridean Princess Cruise Insights

By Judi Cuervo

In 1990 or so, just around the time ships were growing larger and larger, I became fascinated by smaller and smaller ones.

I yearned to sail Sea Goddess. I yearned to sail Sea Cloud. And soon, I yearned to sail on a Hebridean Princess cruise.

Hebridean Princess entered service in 1964 as MV Columba, a vessel that transported passengers, cars and goods through the Western Isles of Scotland.

In 1988, a 1.5 million GBP transformation converted the ship into the miniature 48-passenger luxury liner she is today as part of the Hebridean Island Cruises fleet.

It took me over 30 years to stroll up the gangway of Hebridean Princess in Oban, Scotland, but this summer, I did just that, on a 7-night Hebridean Odyssey cruise round-trip from Oban. 

The 48-passenger Hebridean Princess has a crew of 38. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

If you equate a luxury cruise with glitzy furnishings, a lavish spa, production shows and multiple dining venues, chances are you won’t appreciate the timeless elegance of Hebridean Princess —she doesn’t even have a swimming pool!

But if you’re seeking a cozy “floating country house” with superb service and exquisite dining as you sail within the almost-otherworldly tranquility of the lochs, mountains and deserted shores that comprise the Inner and Outer Hebridean Islands, Hebridean Princess is ideal.

Judi’s Hebridean Princess cruise called on Loch Coruisk. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

She was even, in fact, ideal for Queen Elizabeth II who chartered her twice — the first time in 2006 for her 80th birthday and the second time four years later!

Was my Hebridean Princess cruise worth the wait?

It certainly was. And despite spending 30 years devouring every bit of information I could find on her and reading every review, I found myself surprised by certain things related to the ship, the guests and the region she sails.

Below are the 14 things that most surprised me about my Hebridean Princess cruise:

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1. Real Printed Documents

It’s just like the old days! A few weeks before sailing, documents — honest-to-God, hard-copy documents along with two luggage tags — appear in my mailbox along with an informative packet explaining life on board Hebridean Princess.

No credit card information is requested because virtually everything — from my transfer from Glasgow to the embarkation point in Oban and return, gratuities, tours and beverages — is included in the fare.

Only gift shop and premium wine purchases would incur charges and those could be settled on board with cash (GBP) or a credit card.

On a Hebridean Princess cruise you get real printed documents. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

2. Open-Door Policy

On an Hebridean Princess cruise, you’ll never misplace your cabin key…because they don’t exist.

While each cabin does have a safe and doors may be locked from the inside, the practice did concern this paranoid New Yorker until she realized she had absolutely nothing that any of these well-heeled people would ever want to swipe.

3. Just the Facts

Don’t expect lengthy, multi-page daily programs aboard Hebridean Princess or, heaven forbid, an app!

Each night an overview — a brief overview — of the next day’s events is placed in your cabin.

There’s no 2,000-word description of the port(s) you’ll be calling at, and no superfluous language. Instead, each evening during cocktail hour, the ship’s tour director delivers a briefing that outlines the high points of the next day’s port of call(s). He or she is also available dockside, joining walks and hikes or simply to provide information for guests who choose to explore on their own.

The brief Daily Program. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

4. Table Talk on a Hebridean Princess Cruise

Assigned dining tables are back — at least aboard Hebridean Princess. The table you’re assigned is yours for the duration of the sailing.

If you sail solo, you’ll be seated at a group table, often hosted by the ship’s tour director or a ship’s officer, while couples are usually seated at tables for two.

The lovely Columba Restaurant is the only dining venue aboard with single seatings for breakfast (8:00 a.m.), lunch (1:00 p.m.) and dinner (7:30 p.m.).

Dinner in the Columba restaurant at our table for two. * Photo: Judi Cuerva

5. Senior Stabilizers on Hebridean Princess

It’s astonishing, but many of Hebridean Princess’ technical features are unchanged since 1964 when the ship sailed as MV Columba. This includes the stabilizers.

Yet, I found my sailing to be a lot smoother than I’ve experienced on megaships in the Caribbean. They just don’t make ‘em like they used to, I suppose.

A painting onboard of the first RMS Columba (1879-1934). Hebridean Princess started life as the MacBrayne car ferry and Royal Mail Ship, initially RMS then MV Columba, based in Oban for the first 25 years of her life, carrying up to 600 passengers, and 50 cars, between the Scottish islands; it was the last of three car ferries built in 1964 by Hall, Russell & Company in Aberdeen, for the Secretary of State for Scotland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MV_Hebridean_Princess * Photo: Judi Cuervo

6. They Know Who You Are on a Hebridean Princess Cruise

“The staff knows every guest on board and we sail to remote places, usually via tender or zodiac. No one who doesn’t belong can board the ship,” the officer assures me when I discover that the procedure for going ashore and returning does not include computerized ID photos but only the removal of my cabin’s corresponding “boarding pass” from a wooden display board and replacing it when I return.

As we sail to islands with fewer inhabitants than I’ve had in a single rush hour subway car, I realize he’s right — unless a herd of sheep decides to storm the wheelhouse, we’re good.

The “boarding pass” used on a Hebridean Princess cruise. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

7. Not All Decked Out

I was under the impression that evenings aboard Hebridean Princess were very formal, even on nights other than gala ones.

On my sailing, guests dressed informally most evenings and, even on gala nights, the pressure was more on men, most of whom donned a tux or kilt while women could easily go the “black pants and a dressy top” route.

The pre-dinner vibe on deck on a gala evening; dressy but not over-the-top. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

The night we sailed from Oban, in fact, the hours eaten up by our 3+ hour transfer from Glasgow, the lifeboat drill and dinner immediately following led to me wear jeans and sneakers (red sneakers, no less) to the dining room.

I haven’t worn jeans to a cruise ship’s dining room since the last night of a Carnival cruise in 1977.

8. Fit & Fabulous

While most (primarily British) guests on our sailing fell into the 50- to 60-year-old range, the vast majority were fit and active. Well, you have to be to board tenders and zodiacs, enjoy the tour guide-led walks and certainly to scale the massive boulders on Isle of Skye that lead to the stunning Loch Coruisk.

That said, a 90-year-old woman traveling with her daughter seemed to have the time of her life. Though she required assistance and did have a portable wheelchair (the ship maintains a couple of wheelchairs of their own for guests’ use), the woman was able to go ashore in most ports and enjoy the day.

A fleet of bikes are carried on board for active cruisers. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

9. Scottish Weather Doesn’t Always Suck

Sunshine sparkling on the surface of the lochs, bog cotton swaying in a gentle breeze, warm — though-not-uncomfortable temperatures and not one drop of rain throughout.

I wore a sleeveless dress at the Captain’s Farewell on deck and never touched the many, many, many sweaters that I’d packed.

Judi in a lovely sleeveless dress at the Captain’s Farewell. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

10. Solo Travelers, Rejoice!

I’m up to HERE with single supplements so it was a delight to discover that 10 of Hebridean Princess’ 30 cabins are for solo travelers…with no pesky single supplement imposed!

Unfortunately, just days prior to my sailing, one of those 10 cabins experienced a technical issue that resulted in me being bumped from the lovely outside Isle of Coll cabin so that a very frequent solo traveler could be accommodated.

Loch Crinan, would be my new digs, a spacious though inside cabin (one of six insides), on the lowest deck of the ship and accessed via two exceedingly steep and narrow staircases. On formal nights when I wore heels, I’d climb the staircases barefoot!

Judi’s Loch Crinan inside cabin. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

The sitting area of my Loch Crinan inside cabin. * Photo: Judi Curevo

11. I’m Not Alone

I’ve never known an American who didn’t return from an Hebridean Princess cruise to report he/she was the only American on board.

On my sailing, however, I was one of two New Yorkers, four Virginians, a Floridian and a solo traveler from Massachusetts.

Word is obviously getting out across the Pond!

The Tiree lounge, where passenger can mingle and relax. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

12. Haggis Isn’t Horrible

Don’t let that ceremony where the chef — or in our case, the captain — attacks that bulbous haggis with a knife like some crazed serial killer put you off.

Aboard Hebridean Princess, the haggis is really pretty good — sort of like meatloaf.

But that little mound of potatoes mixed with…maybe parsnip…that rests beside the haggis? Yeah, we really have to talk about that.

Haggis!! * Photo: Judi Cuervo

13. No Music … Not a Note

The bagpiper who greeted us at Hebridean Princess’ embarkation played the last note of music we heard until disembarkation.

While this is far preferable to hearing Neil Diamond’s “Sweet Caroline” three times a night like on most ships, I would have enjoyed some traditional Scottish tunes, a fiddler or even a return of the bagpiper.

The entertainment — whisky! * Photo: Judi Cuervo

14. The Royal Suite Aboard Hebridean Princess

Oddly, when Queen Elizabeth II chartered Hebridean Princess, she grabbed not the ship’s largest and top-level Isle of Arran Suite, but the “B” category Isle of Berneray suite, presumably because its balcony is completely private and cannot be overlooked from any point on the ship.

A Hebridean Princess cruise is an ideal choice for small-ship lovers seeking a “floating country house” atmosphere, superb service and exquisite dining, and where the “entertainment” is provided by the magnificent destinations and superb camaraderie among its well-traveled, friendly and fascinating guests.

And she’s just full of surprises.

Canapés on deck at the Captain’s Farewell. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

Interested in a Hebridean Princess Cruise?

My 7-night Hebridean Odyssey cruise started at £6,060 per person ($7,700USD per person).

For info about dates and rates for other Hebridean Princess cruise itineraries, go to Cruise Deals Scotland and Europe | Hebridean Island Cruises.

An 11pm sunset on the Hebridean Princess. * Photo: Judi Cuervo

Judi Cuervo is a New York City native who fell in love with cruising in 1976 during her first sailing aboard Carnival Cruises’ Mardi Gras. Twenty years later, she began her freelance cruise writing gig and, since that time, has covered mass market, ultra-premium, riverboat and expedition ships for regional, national and international publications as well as cruise websites.

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