By John Roberts
It wasn’t all smooth sailing when I took my brother with me to Antarctica, but we ended up having an incredibly fun and memorable adventure with Atlas Ocean Voyages on the new luxury expedition ship World Navigator.
I’ll start by telling you that traveling during a pandemic definitely requires the understanding that plans can shift — and probably will.
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World Navigator is the first ship for Atlas Ocean Voyages, which has plans to launch four more expedition ships.
My brother Bart and I cruised on the third sailing of World Navigator’s inaugural season in Antarctica, in December 2021, and we were joined by about 85 other passengers on the ship for our adventures.
John & Bart on a brothers bucket list cruise. * Photo: John Roberts
World Navigator carries up to 196 passengers, so our sailing was just under half full (and normally carries a max of 182 in Antarctica). We enjoyed the extra space afforded as we explored the White Continent and its surrounding islands during eight days of sailing.
The handsome new World Navigator in Antarctica. * Photo: John Roberts
Atlas Ocean Voyages is building its new expedition cruise line around a mission to give travelers an all-inclusive luxury adventure.
The onboard amenities on World Navigator certainly give today’s small cruise travelers bound for destinations like Antarctica a much more pampered experience than explorers of decades past could have ever imagined.
Your cruise fare includes roundtrip airfare, excursions, unlimited premium drinks and prepaid gratuities.
This is in addition to a host of dining venues, lounges, onboard entertainment, fitness center, spa and shopping.
Our itinerary starts in Orlando, Florida, where all passengers have to assemble for the Atlas Ocean Voyages charter flight to Ushuaia.
Charter flights like these are being used by multiple cruise lines to carry out their seasons in Antarctica during the pandemic.
The idea is to create a “travel bubble” consisting of the people on our ship. We were required to have a negative PCR COVID test 48 hours before arriving in Argentina.
Additionally, we were tested at the Orlando airport before joining our group in a hospitality area where we had snacks and drinks before boarding the plane for our overnight flight to Ushuaia.
Our World Navigator Antarctica Itinerary
Day 1: Depart Ushuaia aboard World Navigator
Day 2: Drake Passage cruising
Day 3: Drake Passage cruising and arrive to Half Moon Island
Day 4: Paradise Harbour in the morning and Neko Harbor in the afternoon
Day 5: Salpetriere Bay in the morning and Jougla Point in the afternoon
Day 6: Danco Island in the morning and Cuverville Island in the afternoon
Days 7-8: Drake Passage sailing back to Ushuaia.
Day 9: Depart ship and overnight flight back to Orlando
The 9-night World Navigator Antarctica itinerary. * Photo: Atlas Ocean Voyages
Once we touch down in the morning, our group splits up and boards three shuttle buses for a day of touring around the southernmost city in the world.
Our exploration of Ushuaia, located at the very tip of South American in Tierra del Fuego, includes stops at viewing spots to see the scenic Beagle Channel and mountain ranges, as well as a hearty lunch at a restaurant that served us a traditional meat platter (parrilla).
Not According to Plan
The afternoon draws on, with more time on the bus. We circle the city and head toward the port for a dinner cruise in the Beagle Channel. This takes place on a local catamaran boat at the port. It’s after 6 p.m., and we can see World Navigator docked right next door, and many in our group start wondering when we will be able to get on the ship to start our cruise.
It’s been a long day, but it’s understandable that the logistics are tricky trying to keep us all safe in our bubble while also getting the ship prepared after the previous cruise.
I have been on dozens of sailings, and I quickly realize that this day is dragging on suspiciously longer than it should be for a cruise ship “turnover day.”
Getting the prior passengers off the ship and getting World Navigator ready for us should have been completed by now.
We all enjoy the free-flowing drinks, dinner and the scenic cruise. The boat takes us out to the channel, and we see plenty of seabirds, a promontory filled with sea lions and even stop to go ashore at a point where we can see Chile just a few hundred yards to our west.
After the evening cruise and as the night drags on, our group is starting to get impatient and ask questions about what the heck is going on. The portside hosts for Atlas Ocean Voyages begin to make announcements to our group explaining that Argentinian authorities are holding up the ship.
(Later, we learn that there had been a few COVID cases on the ship among crew members.)
Hours pass, and we are getting the distinct feeling that this cruise might be called off. Anger and frustration arise among some in the group — others try to calm the situation as much as possible. The main issue is lack of information and not knowing what will happen and how long we will be trapped on this small catamaran as the hour pushes past 11 p.m. and the bar runs out of drinks and food.
Eventually, we are told that we will be broken into groups to go to three hotels for the night and will get an update in the morning on the status of our voyage.
I tell my brother Bart that I don’t have confidence we will be going on this cruise.
John & Bart making the best of it in Ushuaia before they knew if the cruise was on or off. * Photo: John Roberts
A Sinking Feeling … Before Some Amazing News
At our hotel in Ushuaia, Bart and I get a restless night’s sleep and toss around some options for exploring Tierra del Fuego for a few days, figuring we’ll try some hiking or something else if we can’t go on the cruise. Atlas has let passengers know that updates will be coming throughout the day and that all food and drinks will be taken care of on its tab in the meantime.
It’s definitely not looking good. Bart and I join some others in our group for lunch and an afternoon hike. I take a dip in the Beagle Channel and soak in the incredible views on an amazingly sunny and warm day at the bottom of the world.
Then, a break!
Late in the afternoon, we got word that the cruise would happen and a bus would pick us up at the hotel around 7 p.m. We were overwhelmed with joy and excitement.
It had been heartbreaking to think that we had traveled all this way just to have to turn right around and go back home. I had especially felt bad for my brother, who doesn’t travel for a living, to think this trip of a lifetime was called off.
However, things swung back in our favor. I was so pumped to be able to bring him on this epic trip and take him to his third and fourth continents.
We hopped on the shuttle back to the port, and there was a buzz among the group. We couldn’t believe it was happening.
Cruisers assembled in the Atlas Lounge on World Navigator, and the crew quickly checked us all in, apologizing profusely for what we had been through the past 24 hours. Most of us had glazed eyes by now and just wanted to have a look around the ship, get settled in our rooms and wake up fresh to start the adventures.
World Navigator pulled away just before midnight from Ushuaia.
We could see the glimmering lights from the buildings along the shore as we sailed through the Beagle Channel toward the Drake Passage.
We were on the way to Antarctica!
Two happy campers on aboard the World Navigator. * Photo: John Roberts
VIDEO: Below, John shares a quick overview of the week ahead.
From a Bumpy Start to Smooth Sailing
I mentioned at the start of this story that traveling during a pandemic requires patience and flexibility. You now understand why that is necessary when you take a chance and head out on trips like this.
This trip was under way, though, and Bart and I joined our fellow cruisers in growing anticipation of reaching Antarctica. Atlas Ocean Voyages offered some nice gestures in an effort to compensate passengers for the setback, which ended up costing us one day of the voyage.
For their trouble, each cruiser received $100 onboard credit, complimentary WiFi for the trip, a 10 percent refund and a future cruise credit worth 50 percent of the price paid for the current cruise.
Many people I spoke with felt this was a pretty fair deal, and I chatted with dozens of people who, by the end of our trip, were looking over the brochure of sailings trying to plan their next cruise adventure.
Ahhhh heading to Antartica. * Photo: John Roberts
The Drake Passage was calm for the day and a half that it took for us to reach the South Shetland Islands, and during that time, Bart and I were able to enjoy the amenities onboard World Navigator while meeting new friends among the crew, expedition team and fellow cruisers.
VIDEO: Views don’t get better than this! A look at Antarctica from the decks of the World Voyager.
World Navigator is a pretty ship with eight decks. The passenger areas are on Decks 3 to 8, with the Mud Room on Deck 3 and the very top featuring a walking/jogging track with 15 laps making up a mile.
The new 196-pax World Navigator. * Photo: John Roberts
In between, the amenities include up to five options (depending on the cruise destination) for meals or snacks, as well as a fitness center, spa, main theater and two large bars/lounges.
The ship also has a substantial boutique selling nice logo wear such as warm jackets, sweatshirts, hats, gloves and shirts. These make great souvenirs, and many passengers used their onboard credit here. The store also has chocolates, snacks and sundry items. Next door is the guest services area and the offices for the expedition staff.
World Navigator also is notable for the Water’s Edge outdoor observation area at the bow of the ship on Deck 5. Wander out to this spacious deck, and you’ll be incredibly close to the water line with amazing views.
The Waters Edge, is really that! * Photo: John Roberts
Porto is the main restaurant on World Navigator.
Porto, the Main Restaurant. * Photo: John Roberts
It is located in a large space on Deck 4 of the ship with windows to the views outside and easy access to an outside viewing deck at the aft. It serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, with breakfast and lunch as a buffet.
The lunch buffet set up. * Photo: John Roberts
A delicious lunch from the buffet. * Photo: John Roberts
The dinner menu offers a new selection of gourmet specials each night alongside items that are available every day.
We enjoyed a variety of steaks and seafood throughout our cruise, with ribeye, giant succulent lobster tails and langoustine among the favorites.
The langoustine was among John’s favorites in Porto. * Photo: John Roberts
A big steak! * Photo: John Roberts
The juicy burgers and truffle fries also were a favorite, with a few people at our tables ordering them each night.
The burgers and fries went over big with just about everyone. * Photo: John Roberts
Now, the other primary eatery during our sailing in Antarctica was Paula’s Pantry, a casual spot for grab-and-go food, sweets, healthy options, juices and coffees.
The café-style venue is located on Deck 4 midship, and Bart and I made this a regular morning stop for first breakfast — a fruit cup or muesli and some of the delicious fresh juice blends they offered. They had green juices with ginger or an orange variety infused with turmeric, for example. (Unfortunately, eating here involved a good deal of single-use plastics.)
Healthy food at Paula’s. * Photo: John Roberts
I also delighted in the sandwiches (I particularly enjoyed the ham and cheddar on wheat with lingonberry jam) and the beet and goat cheese salads they had available. And while I aimed to mix in as many healthy options as possible, I always broke down and grabbed a few of the fresh chocolate chip cookies that are always available just taunting me in their display case.
The Dome is the main observation lounge up on Deck 7, and this is the spot for afternoon tea, during which time tables are filled with small sandwiches and more sweets (yes, those cookies again!).
Room service is available 24 days a day, and you can choose from a limited menu that features items like a Wagyu burger and fries, club sandwiches and salads. This was a good option when we wanted to have a meal in the late afternoon when our hectic schedule had us miss out on the lunch time window.
World Navigator also features a chophouse restaurant, called 7Aft Grill on the lido pool deck area on Deck 7. This was closed during our cold-climate sailing. In addition to formal seated dinners, on warmer itineraries, this grill eatery also offers a pub-style lunch outside on the pool deck, with burgers, hot dogs and pizzas.
The small fitness center (Deck 4) was never busy during my sailing and required a sign-up system to limit users to three at a time to allow for social distancing during COVID times.
In the gym. * Photo: John Roberts
It has two treadmills, an exercise bike and light dumbbells, a cable machine and exercise balls. I was able to get in several light workouts and stretching sessions to keep me primed for our daily activities.
SeaSpa on World Navigator features treatment rooms where you can get facials and massages, of course. But the space on Deck 4 also is where cruisers can come to enjoy the relaxation room and its large shower room and sauna.
It has loungers and chairs that face windows to the open seas. I reserved space in here a couple times during the voyage to unwind after a workout and before the next shore excursion.
Spa time. Life is good! * Photo: John Roberts
The sauna space is huge and also has windows, so you can glimpse icebergs, mountains and rolling seas, enhancing the experience.
Oh the views! * Photo: John Roberts
The Dom Henrique Auditorium is situated off the Atlas Lounge and forward on Deck 4.
This is the space for daily briefings that recap the day’s activities and preview where we will be sailing to for our next adventures. The theater space also is used for enrichment talks by the expedition team. We saw interesting talks discussing such topics as whales, research initiatives, ice and the race to the south pole.
A presentation about whales. * Photo: John Roberts
There are two lounges. Atlas Lounge midship on Deck 4 is the ship’s living room. This is where we settled in during all times of the day for cocktails, relaxing and chatting with fellow cruisers.
John in the Atlas Lounge. * Photo: John Roberts
Our bartenders in the lounge were spectacular, and we made it a regular habit to grab our hot cocoa from the station in the mud room and take our cups to the bar for a splash of Bailey’s to warm up while chilling on the couches in the lounge.
One of the excellent bartenders, Roel. * Photo: John Roberts
Atlas Lounge is also the place for piano entertainment, the ship’s library nook and a puzzle table.
Way up on Deck 7, The Dome is an amazing observation space, with a huge indoor area filled with comfortable seating, a large dance floor, bar and easy access to the outdoor deck at the bow of the ship. This is where most cruisers head to enjoy the nightlife after dinner. A small group always enjoyed the vibe into the wee hours past midnight.
The Dome Lounge. * Photo: John Roberts
The sun would set around 11 p.m. because we sailed just as austral summer had arrived, and it was fantastic to be able to enjoy the scenery all around us late into the night.
Late night sunset. * Photo: John Roberts
Staterooms on World Navigator
Our cabin was located on Deck 6, #614, a B1 Category 270-square-foot balcony stateroom that proved comfortable enough for the journey, but was fairly tight on space. Fortunately, Bart and I pack light and had just enough storage space for an eight-night cruise.
A B1 Deck 6 Veranda cabin like John’s. * Photo: Atlas Ocean Voyages
Another angle on a B1 Deck 6 Veranda cabin like John’s. * Photo: Atlas Ocean Voyages
I would suggest that couples going on longer cruises on World Navigator and staying in the standard staterooms (like ours) ensure that they pack efficiently. These Veranda cabins offer a total 270 square feet of space, including the balcony. There is room for suitcases under the beds, which helps, but the closet space was taken up quickly.
Décor features dark, shiny wood paneling and cream-colored wall coverings and curtains. The room also has a small seating area with two purple plush chairs and a tiny table. The space is located beyond the beds on the way to the balcony, and it’s so crowded that we never used it. Bart found it a good place to organize some clothing and other items over on his side of the room.
Most cabins are located on Decks 5 and 6, and the ship offers premium cabins such as Navigator Suite, Horizon Deluxe Suite, Journey and Discovery Suite categories. These rooms offer more interior space and larger balconies. They range from 300 square feet to 465 square feet, with the Navigator being the largest stateroom, offering a separate living room, oversized balcony and walk-in closet among other amenities.
World Navigator has accessible staterooms, and elevators provide access for Decks 3 through 7.
Eight Solo Suites are available on Deck 3, and they offer 183 square feet of space and a picture window to see the ocean.
VIDEO: John does a video tour of his cabin balcony below.
Reaching the White Continent
We reached Antarctica in good time, after sailing for just a day and half after leaving Ushuaia. When waters are choppy, the trip can take two days or longer. So, we were able to recover some precious time that we lost with the complications at the outset.
During the cruise down, we had a series of briefings explaining the rules and regulations of the region and learned our Zodiac groupings and how the daily operations would be executed.
We began to see shapely snow-covered peaks and icebergs floating in the sound as World Navigator approached the South Shetland Islands.
It was time to get excited. We were set to see some of the world’s most inspiring landscapes and fascinating wildlife during four days packed with activities.
The Mud Room is down on Deck 3, and we were outfitted with parkas, boots and other gear that we needed during our voyage. Cruisers store their items, including PFDs, in small closets in this room. It’s a little cramped and chaotic when Zodiac groups are called down to put on their gear and head ashore.
Our expedition team leader Henry Wulff outlines our plan as we arrive in mid-afternoon to Half Moon Island.
Yay, we made it, the week’s first landing! * Photo: John Roberts
The first landing, in Half Moon. * Photo: John Roberts
The original plan had called for a visit to Deception Island, but the conditions there were not good for a landing.
We had an especially snowy week, and some locations were too packed with snow to allow us to get ashore. So, the captain and crew adjusted our route because of the weather a couple times during our cruise.
Half Moon Island gave us our first look at penguins, a little colony of chinstraps that were settling in and making their homes for the early season of nest building and egg laying.
A penguin down by the shore on Half Moon. * Photo: John Roberts
Bart had now stepped foot on his third and fourth continent during this trip, and I was really enjoying seeing his sense of wonder in the overall experience of an expedition-style cruise and in visiting a place so remote and special as Antarctica.
Half Moon Island. * Photo: John Roberts
Later, back on the ship, we enjoyed dinner with our new friends and rehashed the day’s action. The energy was upbeat, a far cry from just a couple days ago. Several people we chatted with over drinks said how happy they were that the voyage was able to take place.
I awoke early the next morning, stepped out onto our balcony and was greeted by large icebergs drifting past.
A sea of ice bergs. * Photo: John Roberts
It was Paradise Bay in the morning, and we went ashore, scaling a snowy hillside to get a view over the inlet. I could spot seals on the ice in the distance, and gentoo penguins traded places plopping into the water or popping out onto the shore, unbothered by the green-coated visitors invading their home.
A seal snoozing. * Photo: John Roberts
Fat snowflakes fell continuously, and it was as if we were in a snow globe. Bart and I jumped into a Zodiac with expedition guide Joaquin and several others for a nice tour of the bay before heading back to the ship.
Paradise Bay turned out to be the lone spot that weather allowed for sea kayaking operations during our cruise. While we were on our Zodiac tour, we noticed the sea kayakers paddling around the bobbing ice.
The week’s only opportunity for sea kayaking. * Photo: John Roberts
(The other kayaking groups, ours included, had hoped for turns at later stops during the week, but that wouldn’t happen. Also, no one got to do standup paddleboarding on this trip.)
It was an eerily calm and quiet scene as we glided through icy waters on our tour. Joaquin killed the engine, and we savored the pureness of our surroundings.
Stunning ice formations were like sculptures. * Photo: John Roberts
Plinks of water dripping from icebergs and light crackling sounds of sea ice knocking about hung in the air.
Paradise Harbour. * Photo: John Roberts
Alas, we had to leave, and Bart and I shed our parkas, grabbed our cocoa and got it topped off with Bailey’s before heading off to a scrumptious lunch. The buffet featured chicken wings, tacos, chicken bacon avocado salad, creamy broccoli soup, pastas, churros and more.
We repositioned to Neko Harbor for our afternoon excursion, and we saw a leopard seal, humpback whale, gorgeous blue ice and, of course, more penguins.
Touring by Zodiac. * Photo: John Roberts
World Atlas provides walking poles that you can use while walking ashore, as well as binoculars and umbrellas in your cabins.
Just about 1 percent of Antarctica is accessible to tourists, with about 99 percent covered by ice. But that 1 percent leaves plenty to see on voyages such as this.
VIDEO: This is what breathtaking Zodiac excursions are like!
Plunging Deeper into Antarctica
Our journey continues with four more adventures ashore and time on the ship spent enjoying scenic sailing, chatting with friends, filling up on good food and drinks and popping into the enrichment talks.
We cruise into the Lemaire Channel in the morning and anchor at Salpetriere Bay, where we have an incredible Zodiac tour through more blue ice sculptures as penguins porpoise (jump like porpoises!) around our little boats.
The blue ice was like art. * Photo: John Roberts
Soon we ease up to a crabeater seal lazily sprawling across an iceberg and scratching its belly. I think it waved to us, but it was likely shooing us along as it prepped for a well-earned nap. You can see the scars on the bellies of these amazing creatures, war wounds from fighting off leopard seal attacks.
A krill-eating crabeater seal. * Photo: John Roberts
Speaking of leopard seals, we also have a close encounter with one of these sleek predators that popped up from the waters and started gliding toward our boat before zipping off to chase an oncoming raft of gentoos.
A flock of rock shags (also known as Magellanic cormorants) crosses overhead and we head back toward World Navigator. Our Zodiac driver Chris gets a call from the ship. It’s an update to our activities. The polar plunge will take place as soon as we get back.
Chris the guide & Zodiac driver. * Photo: John Roberts
The conditions are good for an epic event, and the captain wants to take advantage while we can.
My heart starts racing, and Bart and I start pumping each other up for this event, one we have been looking forward to (semi-enthusiastically?). I’ve done a polar plunge or two in Alaska before, and that water was cold.
This polar plunge was going to be 29 degrees, with ice floating all around in the Lemaire Channel.
Gulp!
We bolt to our cabin, throw on our bathing suits and robes and head down to the Atlas Lounge to await the call down to the Mud Room for the festivities.
The polar brothers are ready for the cray cray plunge! * Photo: John Roberts
It’s quite a scene, with more than half the cruisers onboard taking part.
Music blasts as we line up to await our turn. The first lady makes the jump to rousing applause, and the line dwindles quickly. It’s our turn.
Bart jumps first, hauls himself out of the bay as quickly as possible and back up the stairs into the ship.
“It’s coooolllld!” he exclaims in an all-time understatement.
Then, I get set to go, a little worried that my heart might stop upon entering the drink but emboldened by the fact that everyone else seems no worse for wear so far.
The water can reach sub-32 temps without freezing over because of the salt content and currents. That’s quite brisk, I’d say.
I approach the water, peering over the platform. Taking a big breath, I leap, making sure to pose for the cameraman in a nearby Zodiac and hit the water. It takes my breath away.
John makes polar plunging look fun! * Photo: John Roberts
And a rear view of John’s polar plunge in case you were interested! * Photo: John Roberts
The jumpers are tethered to crewmembers who immediately assist in pulling us out after our plunges. I also race back to the ship, don my robe and knock back a shot of vodka with Bart to celebrate.
Crew are handing out the shots and hot cocoa, and we grab a chocolaty drink, as well and head back up the bar, as has become our ritual.
The ship sails to Port Lockroy as we head to the hot tubs. Snow is falling all around us, and we’re sitting in the hot waters sharing beers with fellow adventurers.
Life is good! Post-plunge warm up! * Photo: John Roberts
It’s been a brilliant morning, and we still have the afternoon excursion to come.
At Jougla Point, we trudge through the snow and wander among the gentoo rookeries there.
Penguins at Jougla Point. * Photo: John Roberts
That night, expedition team leader Henry Wulff joins us for dinner. He says the amount of snow we are seeing is highly unusual, and I ask him what Antarctica is like after almost two years with no travelers coming down because of the pandemic.
“The wildlife is much more curious and the landings are more virgin,” he says. “Animal behavior is definitely different.”
Wulff said this season (late 2021/early 2022) in Antarctica is unique because only 16 of the typical 55 expedition ships are operating. And those that are coming are doing so with significantly fewer passengers.
Next season (late 2022/early 2023), he says more than 60 ships are planning to sail in Antarctica. (WOW!)
The End is Near
Our final of day of operations in Antarctica arrives, and the morning weather at Danco Island allows for a Zodiac ride around the massive icebergs that fill the bay.
In the afternoon, the sun shine emerges, and we have ideal conditions for a landing at Cuverville Island, home of the largest gentoo colony on the Antarctic Peninsula.
Bart soaking it all up in Cuverville. * Photo: John Roberts
We walk along the coast and take in the incredible view.
The ship is in the distance; shapely icebergs bob in the bay; and curious penguins wander right up to visitors. Hundreds of pictures later, and it’s time to head back to the ship.
Ok … one more photo! Bart & the gentoos! * Photo: John Roberts
Cruisers gather at the lido deck for a farewell Champagne toast led by Henry. Bart and I are among a few others also celebrating with beers in the hot tubs as we start our journey back north to Ushuaia.
John & Bart are chilling with their snow-chilled beers before hitting the hot tub! * Photo: John Roberts
We couldn’t ask for a better way to end our time in Antarctica, with our senses filled to the brim and precious memories to last a lifetime.
Interested in This 9-night Cruise?
It’s being offered next season, including Dec 12 2022, round-trip from Ushuaia starting at $7,999 per person, including round-trip airfare between Buenos Aires and Ushuaia, excursions, premium drinks and gratuities.
Other 9-night Antarctica cruise dates this coming season aboard World Navigator range from $9,799 and $11,599 per person.
Atlas Ocean Voyages’ second new build, the World Traveller, is set to debut for the Antarctic 2022/2023 season and will offer longer 13- to 20-night itineraries.
Until we meet again my friends … * Photo: John Roberts
VIDEO: Here’s John’s video overview of the whole expedition, cold soup to nuts!
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HEIDI SARNA
