What to Expect on a Maine Windjammer Cruise aboard the J. & E. Riggin — A Day-By-Day Review

Maine Windjammer Cruise aboard the J. & E. Riggin

By Heidi Sarna

Maine with its gorgeous forests, rocky coastline, thousands of offshore islands and harbors dotted with yachts and lobster pot buoys is considered by many to be one of the most beautiful sailing regions in the world. It’s a striking tableau custom made for a painter or poet.

And it’s best viewed from the water aboard a ship.

With one of my sons now going to college in Maine, I’m eager to get to know the state better after not visiting for many years.

And so four days aboard the 24-passenger, two-masted J. & E. Riggin schooner, a former oyster dredger launched nearly a century ago, seemed the perfect way to experience Maine’s beautiful coastline and islands in and around Penobscot Bay. This Maine windjammer cruise was a small-ship quirky adventure that appealed to my love of unusual travel.

Chilling out and enjoying the view from the pine decks of the 89-foot-long (LOD) schooner, one of nine historical Maine windjammers in the area, is a special experience that’s all about living aboard a sailing ship that operates much as it would have a century ago.

With no engines used for propulsion, the ship relies on sail power — and the muscle strength of the crew, and willing passengers, to help pull up the sails and hulking iron anchor.

A tough little 16-foot diesel-powered yawl tied to our stern was pulled along to help push Riggin in and out of port, like a mini tug, and for shuttling passengers to and from shore.

Otherwise, as the captains loved repeating: “If the wind don’t blow, the boat don’t go.”

An exceedingly eco-friendly way to travel, the Riggin relies on wind power, meal ingredients are locally sourced and cooked on a wood-burning cast-iron stove, and there are virtually no single-use plastics consumed!

I sampled a four-night Maine windjammer cruise on Riggin in late September 2021 with my old college roomie, both of us eager and adventurous travelers.

We boarded in the late afternoon on a Friday and disembarked Tuesday around 10am the last day, amounting to three full days on board sailing around Penobscot Bay. There was some time on shore, but the point is to spend most of the time aboard the ship, rain or shine.

Each evening Riggin dropped anchor in a peaceful harbor for the night.

VIDEO: J&E Riggin spent the first night of our cruise near North Haven; here we get a good view of the Riggin from the yawl.

 

Following are the day-by-day details of my Maine windjammer cruise …

Friday Afternoon, Day 1

No matter which Maine windjammer cruise you choose, you board the J. & E. Riggin at 5pm on the first day.

We walked across the gangway and were greeted by the young couple in charge, Justin Schaefer and Jocelyn Schmidt, both highly qualified captains who took over the J. & E. Riggin business in early 2021 from Captains Jon Finger and Anne Mahle, a beloved pair who ran the ship for nearly 25 years.

Not yet 30, Justin and Jocelyn are clearly in it for the long haul and love the crazy windjammer life. Enthusiastic, friendly and super hard-working, the couple make everyone comfortable from the get-go.

RELATED: Read more here about the history of Maine Windjammers and the J. & E Riggin.

Cozy Cabins on J.&E. Riggin

We were assigned to cabin #2, located in a quad of four cabins at the bottom of a short steep set of steps (which is best descended backwards like a ladder). When Chrissy and I opened the door, our eyes widened; we had to laugh at just how cozy it was.

The adventure was beginning!

There were bunk beds and I took the top one. We stowed our duffle bags (unpacking isn’t an option) — mine at the end of my bed, sharing the space with my feet, and Chrissy tucked hers in the narrow space under her bottom bunk.

We had phone charging outlets and each a reading light.

The cabins all have a mini sink for teeth brushing and bird-bathing — with one communal shower hose up on deck, in one of the two bathrooms.

You had to pump a pedal on the floor with your foot (like a bass drum pedal!) to drain the little cabin sink after use. We could hear the pumpity-pump-thump of the pedals (and some snoring too!) from neighboring cabins, especially in the morning — a schooner’s crowing rooster.

It’s All About the Sailing

You certainly don’t go on a Maine Windjammer cruise to hang out in your cabin, that’s not the point.

It’s all about the authenticity of the sailing experience; of traveling back in time to live the life of a sailor for a few days (albeit with much better food!).

Soon after stowing our stuff in our cabin, we headed into the cute town of Rockland for a walk and dinner. The first night is spent on board J. & E. Riggin, but as the ship only departs the next day. Dinner the first evening on your own in town.

Based on the crew’s recommendations, we walked over to the cute Claws restaurant for a couple of fresh tasty lobster rolls and Maine beers. They didn’t disappoint.

Afterwards, we had a couple more beers at one of the many pubs on Rockland’s Main Street near the dock, not eager to retire too soon to our teeny cabin.

Saturday, Day 2

On our first full day, we departed Rockland around 11am under sunny skies. We sailed through the harbor, past the Rockland Breakwater lighthouse and then the small Owl’s Head lighthouse (who?).

We spotted fellow Maine Windjammer Victory Chimes in the distance, as we sailed into Penobscot Bay.

The 3-, 4- and 5-night J&E Riggin cruises stick to Penobscot Bay, an expansive area, while the few longer 6-night cruises might get up to Arcadia National Park, depending (as always) on the wind.

We got off to a good start. Though the weather forecast had predicted gloomy and rainy weather, the first half of Saturday defied that. Those first sunny hours gliding gently out of Rockland were all blue skies and gentle breezes. Ahhhh.

The colorful buoys of lobster pots bobbed up and down with the currents, all marked with numbers and color-coded in accordance with the government’s system for regulating lobster fishing.

Taking it all in, some of us stood near the forward mast or sat on the deck’s wooden “benches” (the tops of storage boxes and the cabins below) soaking it all up as the J. & E. Riggin moved through the water as sailing ships have done for thousands of years.

The tranquility of the quiet sailing was lovely, especially for people who like being still and are content to sit and chat.

Capt Justin told us we won’t make a “port” call today as we had time on land that morning.

“Any idea where we’re going tomorrow?” a passenger asked the captain. “No!” he playfully shouted, adding, “we really don’t exactly know, it depends on the wind, current and temperature.”

A Maine windjammer cruise is about reveling in days gone by when mother nature called the shots and there was less focus on planning and plotting itineraries and excursions. It’s all about the thrill of sailing aboard a traditional schooner and soaking up the natural beauty of Maine.

For folks who like to be active, a rowboat is brought out when at anchor for anyone who wants to paddle around a bit, plus there’s a stand-up paddle board and a little sailing dinghy.

Of course, helping to hoist the 4,000 feet of sails and the 550-pound iron anchor counts as exercise too!

VIDEO: Most passengers were eager to help hoist the sails whenever needed, including me!

In late summer and early fall there may occasionally be time for a bit of swimming for those who don’t mind the chilly water; off the beach during the lobster bake or around the ship at anchor. Brave souls in need of a quick shower can always volunteer for a “polar” plunge over the side!

After some playful cajoling about the coming days, Captain Justin told me the “probably” plan was to have an opportunity to go on shore somewhere tomorrow (Sunday) and Monday.

Maine’s Wildlife

There is no wifi or digital entertainment of any kind (thank goodness), the focus is on the ship itself and on nature.

While cruising past scenic North Haven and Vinal Haven, islands that sheltered us from any major chop, we saw harbor and gray seals in the distance and Chrissy squinted at a roosting eagle or two in the trees along the shore. Bring a pair of binoculars if you want a better view.

Harbor porpoises are harder to spot as they spend most of their time under water, but do keep a look out as a few passengers saw one or two.

Keep your eyes peeled for osprey and loons too, as well as ocean sunfish and occasionally small whales.

Puffins are known to hang out on Eastern Egg Rock island, just south of Penobscot Bay, between April and August; occasionally they’re spotted on Riggin’s longer cruises, but they are pretty elusive.

Bonding with the Other Passengers on a Maine Windjammer Cruise

As a fairly social person, I enjoy meeting new people and chit-chatting.

This predisposition comes in handy on a Maine Windjammer, where most of your time (besides sleeping) is spent mingling on deck in close quarters. New friendships are made in the intimate Maine windjammer cruise environment.

A spry 78-year-old former navy officer was especially chatty and super friendly; if there was a J. & E. Riggin cruise mascot, it was him. He loved a good laugh and regaled anyone within ear shot with stories and corny one-liners. He also had the energy and oomph to help pull up the anchor and sails; it was impressive. He was a lover of life and you had to admire it.

He shared that this was his fourth Maine Windjammer cruise, and that they also enjoy Royal Caribbean big-ship cruises out of Bayonne to Bermuda. A man for all seasons.

And then there was the friendly 50-something couple from Massachusetts; a pair of doppelgängers for Chevy Chase and Beverly D’Angelo in the film “National Lampoon’s Vacation,” with Boston twangs.

They were always quick with a joke, a smile and a hearty laugh.

“Beverly” was a kindergarten teacher I recall, and while “Chevy” didn’t mention to us what he did, I confess to overhearing it (remember, you’re never more than six inches from another passenger on a cozy schooner like this!). If I heard right, turns out this humble, self-deprecating, very funny man who enjoyed a beer at lunch, was a judge and had been a district attorney. Impressive!

Another passenger group was a pleasant trio occupying one of the ship’s two triple cabins (a 60- or 70-something brother and sister, along with the brother’s wife). It was their first, and they had been wanting to try one for years.

The two women in the broom closet, er cabin, next to ours were also very pleasant to chat with, and like most folks on board, possessed a great sense of humor and a down-to-earth demeanor. Handy prerequisites for this kind of cruise.

Clearly Mother Nature is Boss

After lunch, the bad weather we were all expecting had arrived.

Around 3pm we anchored in a sheltered harbor around North Haven.

If it had been sunny, it would have been wonderful to be at anchor and continue to enjoy the views and the serenity of the water and the nearby islands. Instead, like everyone else, my friend Chrissy and I took shelter up on deck under the enormous canvas tarp the crew fastens over the top deck during inclement weather.

It was perfectly suited to keep the rain out. We sat atop the ship’s deck boxes and cabin tops; there were cushions and stadium seats for those who preferred the added comfort.

This down time was a great opportunity to gab and catch up. We began day-drinking, like many others, from the beers and near-beers we had all brought and stowed in the common cooler on deck.

Though unaccustomed to the slow pace of time at sea, in retrospect, it was blessing! At one point, as we chatted under the tarp trying to stay dry, Chrissy and I tried to guess what time it was.

I thought it must be about 5pm; Chrissy guessed 4:30. It was only 3:45! Lol. My how time slowed that afternoon. The unexpected antidote to our over-scheduled lives.

In hindsight a bit of knitting or a sketchpad might have been a good idea, as two women had the foresight to bring along.

On this long rainy day, after a delicious dinner, the ship was dead by 8:45pm, with everyone having retired to their cabins. Well, except for one deckhand, whose “bed” was a hammock that he stretched across one corner of the deck! He had “turned in” even earlier, at 8pm, wrapped in a sleeping bag and gently rocked to sleep by the waves.

Impressive Multi-Tasking Crew

Despite their long hours and many duties, both deckhands were friendly, good-natured and willing to answer all of our questions — the same ones they get every week, I’m sure!

When they weren’t yanking on lines with all their might or leaning over the side of the ship to nudge the anchor in place (with the help of passengers when needed), they also swabbed the decks (which are always wet on a Maine Windjammer cruise), repaired and painted bits of this and that, cleaned the bathrooms (a thankless job, but thank you!), and helped with meal prep, serving and dish washing.

Loving the Delicious Food

Chrissy was endlessly fascinated by the gigantic vintage cast iron wood-burning stove (Home Clarion, likely made in Bangor Maine in the early 20th century) upon which all meals were prepared.

She also gravitated like a reptile to the warmest spot on the ship — the galley and the adjacent lounge area — where a handful of other folks would visit to watch the magic happen.

Full of friendly chatter, maps, charts, and a small library of well-worn books, she absorbed the warmth while marveling at how such delicious homemade meals were prepared in such small-scale, old-school conditions. Often freshly baked muffins or cookies would be cooling on the table in galley-lounge, adding to the ambience.

Chef Mark and sous chef Kat prepared fresh, delicious, healthy and innovative meals that were a cruise highlight.

Honestly, I didn’t expect the food to be so good on a rustic ole schooner.

Chef Mark enthusiastically introduced meals to us before they were served buffet-style on deck, explaining a bit about the ingredients and recipes.

For breakfast one morning it was delicious gluten-free pancakes with Maine maple syrup along with sausages; cantaloupe; honeydew; and blackberries and cream.

A memorable lunch that stands out featured clam chowder; salad with apples, walnuts, raisins, and blue-cheese dressing; and homemade enriched bread with molasses.

Another satisfying lunch received with rave reviews comprised onion soup, two kinds of pizza, and dark chocolate gluten-free brownies.

The three dinners included a delicious poached local salmon served with local asparagus and carrots, risotto, soda bread and a lime tart served in a cup. Another scrumptious meal featured a very satisfying African dish called shakshuka, a comforting stew of veggies and spices with a poached egg, served with zucchini pasta.

Tea, coffee and jugs of water were on the house. Otherwise, it was BYOB. We each brought aboard whatever drinks we enjoyed and put them into the communal cooler. Many brought beers, wine, spirits and/or soft drinks. Meanwhile, Chrissy discovered the joys of canned rum punch and other pre-mixed cocktails.

Meals were buffet-style on deck, with folks sitting to eat atop the wooden storage boxes and cabin tops. Passengers were asked (nicely) to scrape and rinse their dishes after meals, in keeping with the summer-camp-for-adults vibe.

Sunday, Day 3

It rained until about noon, so breakfast was served under the tarp up on deck.

Afterwards, a few of us wanted to go ashore even in the drizzle, for a change of pace, as we’d been anchored near North Haven since 3pm the day before.

Around 10am, Captain Justin brought the yawl alongside and Chrissy and I, plus another passenger, went ashore in North Haven.

We took a walk in the light rain around the little town, winding up at an art gallery and gift shop that was open, called the Hopkins Wharf Gallery, set in a lovely old sprawling shingled house, like many we had spotted along the shore while sailing.

After an hour or so, we were back on board.

Post lunch we raised the anchor (by hand of course) and sailed north through the Fox Islands.

Finally, by mid Sunday afternoon, it cleared up and we were treated to gorgeous skies for the rest of the day. Yayyy, the soul-stirring views returned.

We sailed near Eagle Island, Butter Island and the Head Islands — ah what gorgeous scenery Penobscot Bay offers — as we all milled around the deck enjoying the views and helping to adjust sails when needed.

The sky, all light and shadow with the clouds dancing in the sun, was breathtaking.

Entertained by the Natural Environment

After dinner, most of us lingered on deck under the vast starry sky with our cans of beer or cups of wine. “Chevy” knew a lot about astronomy and he pointed out the major constellations as well as a rare, fleeting glimpse of the international space station as it appeared overhead like a dot of light and moved steadily across the horizon before disappearing into the inky sky.

We gazed up in awe at the voyagers adrift in the heavens, and for a moment, our little Riggin felt considerably roomier by comparison.

Delighting in the beautiful night sky of coastal Maine, unencumbered by the artificial lights of buildings, towns or cities, was a joy and gift.

Monday, Day 4

We woke up at dawn to the sound of footsteps, muffled voices and the rhythmical foot-pump as people brushed their teeth and washed up at their personal sinks.

Then we emerged from our cabins, up the littler ladder and on to the deck to welcome a beautiful sunny day!

Chrissy and I gave the rowboat a spin after breakfast, as did a few others, paddling it around the Riggin for some great views and photo ops in the brilliant morning light.

It was fun and we enjoyed doing something active.

“Chevy” jumped in the cool water for a “shower” — one of the very few who took one during the cruise. We all enjoyed vicariously watching him take the plunge, though no one else was willing to follow him into the chilly late September water.

Then the “merch shop” came out. Captain Jocelyn set up their logo goodies on deck, including t-shirts, raincoats, fleeces, mugs and baseball caps.

Once sailing again, we spotted a few seals popping their heads up in the water as well as eagles in tall trees along the shoreline.

Captain Justin told me there are at least 75 sheltered harbors and nooks in Penobscot Bay at which to anchor and enjoy the gorgeous views. He also estimated there were 10 to 20 places to anchor for short yawl trips to shore to check out small towns.

Though I was always curious where we were going, it seemed most others didn’t care. They understood that it was all about “blowing in the wind” on a classic ole Maine Windjammer.

Lobster picnic!

Today was the big event we were all looking forward to — the lobster beach bake picnic!

After anchoring, in shifts we were all brought ashore to remote Pond Island via the Riggin’s little yawl boat.

Ahhh, land!

We were set free to wander around the pretty isle on our own, to poke through the lovely purple shells lining the beach and to walk the mile or so to the hook-shaped spit of land at the far end of the island.

Meanwhile the crew — galley, deck hands and captains alike — set up our lunch feast.

They steamed the lobsters on the beach in a big cauldron. There was melted butter, baked potatoes, corn on the cob and vegetable skewers. Before the main course, we nibbled on chips and snacks set up on a folding table.

We all sat on the beach, in the sand or on our jackets (some prepared folks brought little camping chairs with backs).

To open the lobster tails, we cracked them on beach rocks.

We were each given two lobsters; and then the crew came around again asking if we wanted a third! WOW! Never in my life!

There were “s’mores” for dessert that Captain Jocelyn cooked up over a little open fire. Her twist on the classic treat was homemade pizzelles (traditional Italian waffle cookies) instead of graham crackers.

The lobster beach picnic is offered on every itinerary and it’s a highlight of the cruise.

VIDEO: Watch the steaming lobsters being served!

After a great few hours, we were back on board, cranking up the anchor and then off sailing again by about 2pm, on this, our last full day aboard.

Though sunny, gusty winds made for a pretty “bumpy” ride until about 5pm, when things finally calmed down.

By then, I was more than ready for a quiet harbor, where we anchored to enjoy our last happy hour together, another delicious dinner and star gazing into the beautiful clear night sky.

Tuesday, Bye Bye

After docking around 10am in Rockland, we soon disembarked after a truly adventurous few days sailing in Maine’s Penobscot Bay aboard a nearly-century-old schooner.

Some passengers were already talking about when they would do their next one; many had done Maine Windjammers many times before.

As a first-timer who wasn’t sure exactly what to expect at the start, I’m so glad I experienced this very special way to travel in a gorgeous part of the world.

Interested in this cruise? Click here to book Riggin’s “Lobsters & Lighthouses.”

Maine Windjammer Cruise Fast Facts

J.& E. Riggin cruises are offered between late May and early October, and range from 3 to 6 nights (you board the evening of the date listed between 5 and 6 p.m. and the ship departs the next morning).

Accommodating a total of 24 passengers, J. & E. Riggin has:

• 2 cabins with double beds
• 9 cabins with 2 single bunks
• 2 cabins with 3 berths

Cabins have a cold-water basin for teeth-brushing, nightlights for each bunk, and USB charging ports.

• Rates for 3-day cruises range from $615 to $869 per person.
• Rates for 4-day cruises range from $819 to $979 per person.
• Rates for 5-day cruises range from $1025 to $1125 per person (including a special 5-night Windjammer Rendezvous June 10- June 15, 2022, when Riggin will be tying up in a big raft called a gam with all of the other windjammers for a night of music, delicious food, and fun).
• Rates for 6-day cruises range from $1212 to $1387 per person.

To check availability or make a booking, contact J&E Riggin at 1-800-869-0604; payment plans are available if you ask.

There is a 5% discount if reserved BEFORE February 1st of the current sailing season.

A deposit of $350 reserves a berth on any cruise; the balance is due six weeks before sailing date. For more details on cancelation policy, click here (namely, cancelations for any reason less than 8 weeks before departure are non-refundable unless the cabin(s) can be rebooked).

Read more details HERE.

The Caveats of a Maine Windjammer Cruise

• Maine Windjammer cruises aren’t for everyone — they are not luxurious (that’s not the point!); cabins are closet-like and Riggin has two toilets and one shower for everyone. For those with a sense of adventure and a love of the sea, sailing ships, delicious food and remote, unspoiled and untouristy places, then a Maine Windjammer cruise is very appealing.
• A Maine Windjammer cruise is not super active, besides helping with the sails and anchor, there’s a lot of sitting and chilling out.
• It’s BYOB, which suited us fine; and this includes mixers and sodas, you must bring all your beverages (only tea, coffee and pitchers of water are provided).

 

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