Pandaw River Cruises
June 28, 2022 UPDATE — Pandaw Restarted!
Myanmar (Burma) remains suspended due to political unrest and unsafe travel conditions.
Company statement below: Happy News and an historic document to relish.
Pandaw has been offering high-quality expedition-style river cruises in Southeast Asia aboard traditional-style boats for more than 25 years. The growing fleet comprises similar-looking colonial-style teakwood riverboats built in Myanmar, Vietnam and Laos in the spirit of the 19th-century Scottish-crafted paddle steamers that plied Burma’s rivers at the height of the British Empire.
Each boat carries 10 to 60 passengers and has an ultra-shallow draft, two or three decks, and flat tops so they can slip under bridges and easily navigate small rivers, even when water levels are low. Wood-paneled nautical-style cabins are roomy and very comfortable and meals are tasty enough.
In every way, the Pandaw River Cruises experience is solid, authentic and eminently comfortable just like the boats, with the focus on the destination, not fussy décor or cloying service.
Step on board and breathe in the refreshing scent of teak wood before wiping your sweaty brow with a chilled face towel handed out by crew at the gangway.
The company was founded in 1995 by Scotsman and Burma historian Paul Strachan with the re-building of an original Clyde-built steamer called Pandaw 1947, one of the last boats built for the original Irrawaddy Flotilla Company founded by Scots merchants in 1865. The Irrawaddy Flotilla Company was once the finest river fleet in the world with some 500 vessels that carried passengers and cargo, from bags of rice to blocks of jade, silk, tobacco and whisky, on Burma’s Irrawaddy and other rivers from the 1860s until the Japanese invasion in WWII when the British scuttled virtually the entire fleet to keep it out of enemy hands.
Family-run Pandaw was the first company to offer expeditions on both the Irrawaddy and Chindwin rivers and continues to stay true to its mission of building smaller ships, even as other companies build bigger ones, to offer river adventures in remote areas, especially in Myanmar and more recently in Laos.
In 2015, Strachan published a book called The Pandaw Story about his adventures, Pandaw, and the history and culture of Myanmar. He’s also written guides to Bagan’s art and architecture.
Fleet
Pandaw II (b. 2002 & 48 p) — Irrawaddy River – N.B. Not operating due to continuing unrest
Tonle Pandaw (b. 2002 & 56 p) — Mekong River
Mekong Pandaw (b. 2003 & 48 p) — Mekong River
Orient Pandaw (b. 2008 & 60 p) — unassigned
Indochina Pandaw (b. 2009 & 60 p) — Irrawaddy River – N.B. Not operating due to continuing unrest
Katha Pandaw (b. 2011 & 28 p) — Upper Ganges & Brahmaputra Rivers
Angkor Pandaw (b. 2012 & 32 p) — Halong Bay, Red River & Mekong River
Bassac Pandaw (b. 2012 & 60 p) — Mekong River
Kalay Pandaw (b. 2013 & 10 p) — Chindwin River – N.B. Not operating due to political unrest
Kalaw Pandaw (b. 2014 & 36 p) — Lower Ganges River
Kha Byoo Pandaw (b. 2014 & 20 p) — Upper Irrawaddy & Chindwin Rivers – N.B. Not operating due to political unrest
Kindat Pandaw (b. 2014 & 36 p) — Brahmaputra River
Zawgyi Pandaw (b. 2014 & 20 p) — Chindwin River – N.B. Not operating due to political unrest
Laos Pandaw (b. 2015 & 20 p) — Mekong River
Champa Pandaw (b. 2016 & 28 p) — Halong Bay, Red River & Mekong River
Sabaidee Pandaw (b. 2018 & 24 p) — Mekong River
Kanee Pandaw (b. 2019 & 28 p) — Irrawaddy River – N.B. Not operating due to political unrest
Song Hong (b. 2023 & 28 p.) — Red River & Halong Bay
Passenger Profile
Mostly couples, with some singles, in their 50s on up from the UK, North America, Australia, New Zealand and Western Europe mostly. Not recommended for children under age 12 or for anyone with trouble walking, as getting on and off the ships usually involves walking across narrow gangways and up and down muddy embankments.
RELATED: Read Passenger Reviews Here.
Price
$$ Expensive
Included Features
- Meals on board
- Local bottled water, jugged coffee, black & herbal teas
- Guide services & entrance fees
- Gratuities for crew (but not for local guides & drivers)
- Use of bicycles
- Domestic flights for some itineraries
Reasonably priced drinks package are available for house wines, free-flow drinks (minus wine), and free-flow drinks including house wines.
Itineraries
Pandaw’s river expeditions operate on the Mekong River that flows from China through Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam. From time to time the line experiments with new itineraries, for instance in Borneo, offering Pandaw fans great reasons to keep coming back. Myanmar cruises are currently not operating due to political unrest.
A few itineraries venture into northern Vietnam, to Halong Bay and on the Red River that flows past Hanoi into the Gulf of Tonkin. River itineraries in India now number three with three different riverboats.
The most popular of the 3- to 21-night Mekong River cruises are the classic week-long journeys between Siem Reap, Cambodia and Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam, for visits to both rural villages and cities. Most people spend a few days before or after the cruise ogling the stunning monuments of Angkor Wat near Siem Reap and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) to take in Vietnam. Other itineraries traverse the more remote Mekong in China and Laos. The boats here have very shallow drafts and powerful engines 3 times the horsepower of the main fleet to “climb” the Laotian Mekong into China.
Before the dire political upheaval in Myanmar that started in early 2021, Pandaw’s variety of 7- to 22-night itineraries along the Irrawaddy and Chindwin rivers were very popular, and included a week-long Bagan to Mandalay run, with the highlight being Bagan’s stunning profusion of Buddhist pagodas.
Shallow draft riverboats allow navigation to Katha, 1,000 miles above Rangoon (Yangon) well above Mandalay and past the third and second defiles. These cruises are subject to sufficient depth of water, and the shallow draft of the riverboats deployed on this route is 32 inches or 80 cm.
NOTE: From April 7, 2021, Pandaw officially announced the cancellation of all future river cruises in Myanmar, until further notice, due to the devastating political upheaval going on in the country. When things settle down and travel advisories are lifted, Pandaw will announce the restart of its Myanmar offerings.
The upper Ganges itinerary operates from Kolkata well inland to Varanasi; the lower Ganges, not as far, to Farakka; and a third on the Brahmaputra.
Pandaw also offers short, four-night river cruises between Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), Vietnam and Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s capital, passing through the Mekong River Delta with stops at villages and a bird sanctuary. Includes hotel stays at both ends.
Sample Itineraries
A novel Southeast Asian river cruise, the 10-night Halong Bay and Red River cruise is a departure from the Mekong and Irrawaddy. The voyage begins in Halong Bay for three nights of sailing. On the fourth day, enter the Kinh Thay River, cruising towards Hanoi and stopping at local villages along the way.
Spend a day touring Hanoi proper, then sail along the Lower Red River, and the Lo and Da Rivers through the picturesque countryside. Spend a day touring Hoa Binh’s historic sites before the final disembarkation there on the 11th day.
NOTE: As of April 7, 2021, Pandaw officially announced the cancellation of all future river cruises in Myanmar as written above. You can be sure Pandaw will announce the restart of its Myanmar popular offerings when it is safe to. (Prior to this, Pandaw’s 7-night Mandalay Bagan Packet cruise was very popular. It begins in Bagan, with a couple days spent touring the ancient temples and pagodas. On the third day, the boat sails to Salay, Ayardaw and Tant-Chi-Taung for cultural sightseeing. Onwards, visit Pakokku and it’s bustling market, Yandabo’s workshop and school, and on to Ava, Sagaing and Amarapura. Finally, visit Mingun and then Mandalay, Myanmar’s second largest city.)
RELATED: Vietnam’s Red River & Ha Long Bay with Pandaw. by Heidi Sarna.
RELATED: Heidi Cruises Down the Mekong with Pandaw.
RELATED: Ted Cruises Down the Mekong with Pandaw.
RELATED: An Irrawaddy River Cruise with Pandaw. by Heidi Sarna. N.B. Cruises not currently operating.
Why Go?
To see remote parts of Asia with expert guides on charming period-vessels.
When to Go?
Pandaw cruises July through early April, with water levels the highest and landscape the lushest between about October and February. Even in dry season (March and April), though, the boats with their shallow drafts can navigate the rivers even when waters levels are getting low.
Every year in mid April, May and June, the fleet is taken out of service for maintenance coinciding with the extreme hot weather and very low water levels.
Activities & Entertainment
The boats make at least one stop a day, sometimes two or three. When sailing, most people are content to relax on a padded wooden deck chair or chaise lounge to watch the river traffic and scenery float by.
An expert tour guide from the country visited sails along for the duration of the cruise, leads shore excursions and gives talks on board about various aspects of the destination and local culture, such as demonstrations about how to tie a sarong or make the tree-bark thanaka face paint popular in Myanmar. (Not operating). (On weeklong Mekong itineraries through Cambodia and Vietnam, there is a guide from each country for that half of the journey.)
Generally once or twice per cruise a local dance or singing group, or maybe a troupe of puppeteers, are brought on board to entertain guests after dinner. Otherwise, it’s drinks and chatting about the day’s adventures with new friends before heading off to sleep to rest up before another eventful day begins.
Pandaw boats on Red River & Halong Bay routes carry mountain bikes on board for passengers to cycle on their own where it’s safe to ride.
Pandaw’s Dining
Cuisine incorporates fruits and vegetables from the region into dishes such as chicken breast stuffed with tea leaves, roast pumpkin, prawn curry, fried rice, and various delicious Asian soups made to order with the ingredients laid out for diners to pick and choose from.
There are also western staples, from scrambled eggs to salads, fish and chips, and pasta. All meals are prepared onboard and nearly 100% of supplies are sourced from local producers in keeping with Pandaw’s commitment to support the local economies.
Pandaw’s Ships
The Pandaw riverboat fleet is divided into two categories: small two-deck sternwheelers known as K-class (carrying between 10 and 32 passengers) and larger three-deck side-paddlers called P-class (built for 48 to 60 passengers).
K-class riverboats are based on a design from the 1880s and, due to their shallow draft, are deployed on shallower rivers.
P-class riverboats, including the original Pandaw that the line bought and restored in 1998, are a circa 1940s Scottish design. None of the ships have an elevator between decks, just stairs.
RELATED: See old photos of Irrawaddy side-paddlers and other vintage scenes here.
K-class
Katha Pandaw, Angkor Pandaw, Kalay Pandaw, Kalaw Pandaw, Kha Byoo Pandaw, Kindat Pandaw, Zawgyi Pandaw, Laos Pandaw, Champa Pandaw, Sabaidee Pandaw, Kanee Pandaw
P-class
Pandaw II, Tonle Pandaw, Mekong Pandaw, Orient Pandaw, Indochina Pandaw, Bassac Pandaw
Public Rooms
Each has one restaurant, a combination bar and lounge, and lots of covered outdoor space on the uppermost deck for hanging out and scenery viewing. The open design allows air to flow through the vessels providing not only a welcome breeze, but also a stabilizing affect for the boats.
On the larger ships the restaurant is inside, and depending on the temperature, with large French doors open to the river or closed with air-conditioning; on the smaller ships, they’re open-air on the covered top deck. Meals are served in one open seating at tables for four, six or eight, though different configurations can be made on request if there is space. Breakfast and lunch are semi-buffet and dinners are served.
The larger “P” class boats have a third deck and amenities including a massage room, small boutique and art gallery, and a lecture and meeting room with a large flat screen TV, projector and sound system to show movies about the region after dinner (like Indochine or The Quiet American). One of them, Mekong Pandaw, has a small gym with cardio machines and weights.
Cabins
Well laid-out with colonial decor, the wood-paneled cabins are roomy with comfy twin captain’s beds with ample storage beneath. There’s a closet, two bedside tables and a small desk. Large glass doors open onto the side promenade decks. Wood paneled bathrooms have very large showers, and shampoo and soap are provided; a few of the older boats, including Orient Pandaw, Tonle Pandaw and Mekong Pandaw have recently refurbished bathrooms with natural stone-clad showers.
Other extras across the fleet include cotton robes and slippers. To avoid engine noise, choose a cabin as far forward as possible. There are no TVs and few PA announcements, assuring a peaceful journey.
In cabin: en suite, individual climate control, safe, hair dryer.
New Suites
By late 2021, a handful of new suites will be added to four ships in the fleet — Orient Pandaw will have 2 suites; Pandaw II (3); Mekong Pandaw (2); and Tonle Pandaw (2). They measure 336-feet, plus a balcony. The new suites are basically two of the original cabins combined; the suites will stretch from port to starboard, with one side having a private balcony and the other side opening to the communal promenade that’s part of the boats’ original layout. Amenities include a mini-bar, espresso machine and personal on-call valet service.
“As travel to Asia, and particularly river cruising, becomes more popular, we are seeing a change in the needs and expectations of new guests. As the leader in river cruising in Southeast Asia, we want to ensure that we continue to accommodate all new and existing guests in our own unique Pandaw style. The new Pandaw Suites compliment our existing cabin offerings, providing an unmatched level of colonial charm and comfort on our more popular itineraries,” says Pandaw spokesperson Sven Zika.
Along the Same Lines
In Myanmar, when operating, Paukan and Belmond offer the closest equivalent to Pandaw, and on the Mekong River, Heritage Line does.
Contact
Pandaw Cruises
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
+84 985 417 758; information@pandaw.com
UK
+44 (0) 208 396 7320; uk@pandaw.com
Australia
+61 7 3184 2904; www.pandaw.com
— HMS
The Pandaw Clinics (Report from March 2021)
From Pandaw ….
The situation in Myanmar has now broken down and shootings and other acts of violence by the military proliferate on the streets, not just of big cities, but every town and village in the country.
The Pandaw Clinics medical teams are actively providing medical aid to injured people in the Middle Burma towns and villages in which we operate. Our doctors are out with the demonstrators and ready to assist. They attended a sixteen-year old boy shot with a live round in his face at Pagan.
We have opened our seven clinics to offer medical assistance to all striking government workers at a time when government medical facilities have closed. We believe we are well placed with a long established non-governmental healthcare network to assist at this time.
We need all the help we can get and please donate now to buy urgently needed medical supplies. By doing this you can show your support for the Myanmar people’s struggle to regain freedom and democracy.
The Pandaw Clinics were set up in the wake of Cyclone Nargis in 2008 and the seven clinics treat 5,000 patients a month providing medication without charge.
All this is paid for by the generosity of Pandaw passengers.
The seven clinics treat 5,000 patients a month providing medication without charge.
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