Elizabeth G Review By Robin McKelvie

Elizabeth G Review

by Robin McKelvie

Easing down the pontoon in Oban to board the Elizabeth G we’ve already been on a journey together. More than one.

In 2014 I surged out into the deep North Atlantic to St Kilda aboard this converted Norwegian rescue vessel. Then a couple of years later she cut me right through the heart of Scotland coast-to-coast on the Caledonian Canal.

Hebrides Cruises’ Elizabeth G has been on a journey too since then: from rugged expedition vessel into the plush eight passenger cocoon that welcomes me today with beaming smiles, jam and cream-kissed scones and a chilled glass of bubbly.

The 8-pax Elizabeth G. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

I can see the makeover instantly. The single saloon is bedecked with a tasteful muted light blue tartan to echo this blue and white vessel.

Original art lines the walls, not just typically epic scenes of Scotland’s wild and wildly beautiful Hebrides, but of that same world-class scenery with the Elizabeth G there right at the heart of the action.

The comfy saloon features sturdy wood tables. The charm comes through little details — the table legs are coiled with rope.

Spruced up saloon of Hebrides Cruises Elizabeth G

The spruced up saloon. * Photo: Hebrides Cruises

Last time I was aboard she sailed with up to 12 passengers. Now she has been peeled back to eight guests, this saloon never feels too crowded.

There has been a massive change below in the cabins. These have been cut from six to four. Previously only one was en suite. Now all have easy-to-use toilets and showers. The calm colour scheme from the saloon continues in the well thought out cabins, which offer decent storage space and beds rather than bunks.

One of 4 ensuite cabins on Elizabeth G. * Photo: Hebrides Cruises

Just out to the stern they’ve got creative too. This little-used area has been transformed with a sturdy plastic sheet windows and two doors creating a space that keeps you dry and cosy, but which also offers sweeping views and the feeling of being outside.

The cozy stern nook. * Photo: Hebrides Cruises

There is seating here too and it is a handy alternative to the saloon you can enjoy a wee dram in, or just read a book in.

A steep ladder leads from this new stern space up to a large top deck. The best views are from here and new comfy seating has transformed this space too.

Before I came here to stand and admire the views and peer out looking for marine mammals — now it’s just a pleasant place to sit too and catch the breeze. We’ve got excellent wildlife guide Zoë aboard too, so I don’t miss any wildlife as she alerts everyone when she spots something.

Elizabeth G Guide Zoe looking for wildlife

Guide Zoe looking for wildlife. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

And wildlife is a key attraction on this Fall short four-night cruise. We’re in search of Scotland’s ‘Big Five’ wildlife: red deer, otters, golden eagles, harbour seals and red squirrels.

It says it all about the Argyll and Highland regions we cruise in that we spot all of them bar red squirrels in the first twenty-four hours. Mix in sea eagles, porpoises, dolphins, gannets and an unseasonal arctic tern, and the voyage proves a remarkable wildlife odyssey.

Dolphins spotted from the indoor deck saloon of Elizabeth G

Dolphins spotted from the indoor deck saloon. * Photo: Hebrides Cruises

Departing from Oban

Our first overnight eschews the usual Oban small-ship tradition of barrelling west down the Sound of Mull in search of the open Atlantic.

VIDEO: Robin cruises out of Oban, below.

Instead we cut back east through the horizontal Falls of Lora deep into Loch Etive.

VIDEO: Below Elizabeth G heads through the Loch Etive.

Huge mountain massifs soar around, porpoises break the ice-still surface and greenery bursts all around. This is Scotland writ large; Scotland of the movies.

The birdlife in Loch Etive. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

The next morning starts like every one. Some passengers emerge early to scan for otters with freshly brewed coffee.

Then we congregate in the galley for breakfast served by ever-efficient and smiling bosun Craig. A steaming bowl of porridge is an option to kick off, followed by a cooked breakfast that changes each day — one morning butcher sausages and fried eggs, another smoked Scottish haddock with poached eggs.

Chef Charlie with local lobster. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Lunches and dinners excel too. Chef Charlie is a native Scot who takes pride in ultra-local provenance.

We feast on trout smoked on the Isle of Mull we sail by, lobster landed at Oban and Isle of Mull cheddar. Dinners are decadent with a dessert course and then a cheese plate alive with Scottish and French cheeses.

Local lobster for dinner. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Mull smoked salmon. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Pannacotta with Scottish raspberrie on Elizabeth G

Pannacotta with Scottish raspberries. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Wines flow freely at dinner, then a bar tempts for a wee whisky after. Slip outside and with so little light pollution you may catch a shooting star or even a meteorite.

Loch Etive Visit

The next day we enjoy a walk on the shores of Loch Etive, a joy as we chance upon a large female otter feasting on a crab. A sheer joy comes as she paddles off into the water, but then re-emerges for a second time to pad along the littoral just metres away from our concealed position just back from the shore.

Recovering from that experience soon we’re enthralled by the sounds hollering down the glen of the male stags vying for mates and territory in the annual rutting.

Wildlife cruise in Loch Etive on Elizabeth G

Wildlife cruise in Loch Etive. * Photo: Elizabeth G

Going Ashore in Loch Spelve

Day three sees us going ashore at Loch Spelve after steaming south with seabirds and porpoises towards the Isle of Mull. It’s autumn and the glens again echo with the sound of stags bellowing their murderous cries.

And again we have the privilege of sighting an otter. This time a male, who teases us slipping in and out of the water. He puts on quite a show, finishing off by stretching right out on a rock in a last dramatic flurry before disappearing for good.

A Mull otter. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Mull Otter Group. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Loch a’ Coire Call

After overnighting in the shelter of Loch a’ Coire we tender to land first thing.

Just metres from the shore we chance upon a young stag feeding on the grass, who seems as surprised to see us as we are to see him. The red deer lingers, offering the chance to take photos and videos of him in all his antler glory.

VIDEO: Below, a handsome young stag spotted in Morvern.

We also spot a golden eagle as we eke around a wild world where man most definitely plays second fiddle to nature.

The afternoon takes us on a short cruise east to the isle of Lismore, where we hike again, this time being rewarded by flocks of Canadian Geese as they arrive from Greenland on their annual migration.

Robin ashore on Lismore. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

As I reluctantly prepare to leave Elizabeth G I talk to skipper — and company owner — Rob Barlow on the always-open bridge.

The Elizabeth G bridge. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

“We get a lot of repeat guests,” he smiles, “Elizabeth G is named after the previous owner’s wife and she comes back aboard every year with her friends from Shetland where the vessel is still registered.”

It’s easy to see why people keep coming back, especially now that this sturdy expedition ship has been given such a well thought out makeover.

VIDEO: A gorgeous sunset in the Hebrides Islands, below.

Elizabeth G Review — Quick FACTS

Itineraries & Rates for Hebrides Cruises’ Elizabeth G.

Elizabeth G sails this four-night Inner Hebrides Big 5 Autumn Wildlife Cruise next in Fall 2023, with trips including all meals, wine with dinner and excursions.

Prices start at £1,475.

They are also taking bookings for 2024.

The 4-night “Inner Hebrides Big 5 Autumn Wildlife Cruise” cruises round-trip from Oban.

Elizabeth G also offers other cruises on Scotland’s west coast with a wildlife guide onboard for six and 10 nights from spring through to the last fall sailing described here. The vessel is also available for private charter.

Getting There to the Hebrides

These days there are a number of direct flights from North America to Scotland. Depending on your airline, many flights connect through London. You can choose to arrive in the Scottish capital of Edinburgh or Glasgow. Trains run from Glasgow direct to Oban.

Tips for Hebrides Cruises’ Elizabeth G.

Elizabeth G’s sister ship, the 8-pax Emma Jane, is an even more luxurious option, with an open galley, outdoor hot tub and the option of booking the single owner’s suite.

Weather

Scotland is this green with a reason as it can rain whenever you visit.

The cruising season runs from spring in April through to autumn in October.

May, September and October are good choices as they tend to be drier, prices are a little cheaper and there is less chance of having to contend with the baleful midge, a harmless but annoying small insect. August is the warmest month, but can also be wet.

Money Matters

The British Pound is the official currency, with Scottish banks printing their own notes that are legal tender throughout the UK. Credit cards and cash widely accepted.