Off-Beat Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise with UnCruise Adventures Reveals the Real Hawaii

Off-Beat Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise with UnCruise Adventures Reveals the Real Hawaii

Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise with UnCruise

By Judi Cohen

Never thrilled about the idea of traveling thousands of miles just to sit on a beach sipping a colourful drink, Hawaii was not very high on my list of destinations.

Until my husband and I spent a week with UnCruise Adventures on their “Hawaiian Seascapes Cruise” from Kona to Molokai.

I quickly realized how wrong I had been! A small-ship Hawaii cruise was the way to go.

Having had the pleasure of recently cruising with UnCruise in Alaska’s Glacier Bay, I knew this small-ship cruise would have loads of active adventures, plenty of local homemade meals, and a cozy quiet cabin to return to at night.

RELATED: Judi’s reviews her UnCruise small-ship trip to Alaska.

RELATED: John Roberts reviews his UnCruise Alaska adventure.

Aboard the 145-foot, 36-passenger Safari Explorer, I am thrilled to have finally experienced the “real” Hawaii. We visited four Hawaiian islands — the Big Island of Hawaii, Lana’i, Maui and Molokai — along with 33 other quirky and adventurous passengers ranging in age from 49 to well over 80.

Warm Weather Savings With UnCruise

Enjoy 10% savings on any cabin category of the 36-pax Safari Explorer on these select Hawaii Seascapes cruises:

  • March 2, 9, 30 (2024)
  • April 13, 20 (2024)

Mention code WARM10 when booking.

Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise on 36-pax Safari Explorer

The 36-pax Safari Explorer in the Hawaiian Islands. * Photo: Judi Cohen

With a 2:1 guest ratio, the level of personal attention on this small-ship Hawaii cruise couldn’t have been better, catering to our every need.

Welcomed on board by Dai Mar, a marine biologist and also our expedition leader, we were introduced immediately to the expedition team and crew. And thus the tone was set for the next week of adventure-packed fun.

UnCruise Hawaii Cruise with Dai Mar the cruise director

Lawrence and Dai Mar enjoying cocktails on the top deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Our Small-ship Hawaii Cruise Itinerary

We cruised a total of 250 nautical miles while visiting four islands — Hawai’i, Maui, Lana’i and Molokai — about half the distance we covered in the Glacier Bay Alaska itinerary I did recently.

UnCruise is the only cruise line that sails across the often-rough Alenuihaha Channel between the Big Island of Hawaii and Maui, which makes this itinerary that much more special.

And it makes the route particularly suited for people like me who want to see more than just big tourist beach hubs like on the island of Oahu’s Honolulu.

Hawaii route map and wildlife lis

The route map and wildlife list. * Photo: Judi Cohen

 

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Daily Routine Aboard Safari Explorer In Hawaii

At 6:30 am there was an early-risers breakfast in the lounge area and regular breakfast started at 7:30 am the dining room.

There typically was a morning excursion, followed by lunch around 12:30 pm, and then an afternoon excursion; there were no sea days.

Excursion options on our small-ship Hawaii cruise included hiking, snorkeling, kayaking, cultural visits and skiff adventure tours to nature reserves whale watching.

Our small-ship Hawaii cruise with UnCruise was a great balance of extreme and easy activities; something for everyone.

All excursions are included in the cruise fares, and sign-ups were offered the night before after dinner. There was always a challenging excursion as well as a less demanding excursion to choose from; or of course, you could choose to stay on board and have your own private yacht experience!

A trek into a lava tube along the slopes of Hualalai Volcano on a small ship hawaii cruise

A trek into a lava tube along the slopes of Hualalai Volcano. * Photo: UnCruise

Cocktails were served in the bar or on the top deck while we talked about our adventures and wildlife sightings.

Dinner was at 6:30 pm followed by a presentation or guest speaker.

We retired to our cabin around 10:00pm each evening exhausted from each day’s activities.

Our Cozy Cabin Aboard Safari Explorer

Our cozy Navigator category cabin B13 on the Cabin Deck was configured with one queen bed.

Cabin B13 on the Safari Endeavor

Judi’s Navigator category cabin B13 on the Cabin Deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen

There was no lock on the door and we happily slept with our door open every night to hear the ocean.

We kept our valuables including our passports in the small room safe.

We packed very light, knowing that our cabin space would be limited. Almost everything fit neatly into the closet or drawers, and on hooks around the cabin.

Our suitcases, however, were left out in the corner of the cabin as there was no room to stow them under the bed. UnCruise did suggest bringing soft bags and we will do so in the future.

A separate en-suite bathroom with toilet and shower (with refillable eco-friendly body wash, shampoo and conditioner) was bright and clean.

Over the desk, a small TV screen displayed the itinerary and one channel looped documentaries that changed daily to reflect our itinerary.

It was very handy to have binoculars and metal water bottles provided in our cabins.

VIDEO: Judi gives us a quick tour of her cabin, #B13 on the Cabin Deck.

 

Public Areas On Safari Explorer 

We spent most of our time on the Main Deck, where the dining room, saloon, bar and library are in one contiguous comfortable space, ideal for mixing and mingling, sipping drinks and exchanging stories.

The bar was very handy and special drinks were offered daily.

Safari Explorer bar

Bar area with video library and adjacent wine library. * Photo: Judi Cohen

In fact, I felt like I was at a friend’s cottage with comfy oversized sofas.

Guests made themselves at home on the sofas curled up, sleeping or reading, just like a sleepover party when we were kids.

During the cruise we referred to the books in the library to look up wildlife and read about adventure travel around the world.

VIDEO: Judi shows us around the Main Deck public areas, below.

Safari Explorer’s Main Deck — The Adventure Base

Located on the Main Deck aft, was the launch area where the heart of a water-based adventure with UnCruise shines brightest.

The hub for our off-ship adventures, the launch platform had a swim step and was the access point for the Zodiacs (rigid-hulled inflatable boats), skiffs, stand-up paddle boards, kayaks, and snorkeling gear including wetsuits.

watersports-platform of Safari Explorer

Kayaking and swimming from the watersports platform of Safari Explorer. * Photo: Judi Cohen

A wall of white lockers, one for each cabin, was where we stored our sanitized snorkels, fins and wetsuits between excursions.

Reef-safe suntan lotion was available and we were reminded to keep applying it to avoid sunburn.

I’m also glad to have brought a rash guard long-sleeve shirt to wear during snorkeling.

Ideal for relaxing in the shade, or sunbathing on the loungers, the Bridge Deck also had an outdoor workout area with teak boxes full of bands and yoga mats.

Exercise area on top deck of Safari Explorer

Exercise area on top deck of Safari Explorer. * Photo: Judi Cohen

A small spinner for drying bathing suits was very convenient after each water activity.

Cocktails were often served on this spacious outdoor deck at sunset before heading down to the dining room.

Sunset cocktails on top deck of Safari explorer

Sunset cocktails on top deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Amanda serving Lava Flows drinks on the top deck of a small-ship Hawaii cruise with UnCruise

Our ever-present bartender and hostess Amanda serving “Lava Flow” cocktails on the top deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Food Glorious Food On Safari Explorer

Menus creatively incorporated local fruit, vegetables and seafood.

The early-riser breakfast had an assortment of fruit, yogurt, fresh-baked muffins and danishes, and the regular breakfast featured a daily special such as eggs Benedict or waffles, along with custom orders of eggs, potatoes, baked goods and meats.

Meals were always open seating and guests moved around to meet one another.

The dining room of Safari Explorer

The dining room. * Photo: Judi Cohen

We made new friends and dined most evenings with a couple from Hawaii, Julie and John, who did this very same itinerary on the Safari Explorer three times previously.

They gave us great insider information about the islands, the traditions and the food. We were fascinated by their story about losing everything when a volcano spewed molten lava and covered their homes. Julie told us she is just grateful to have survived!

Lists were posted at breakfast with the lunch and dinner choices.

The highlight of each meal for me, as a lover of sweets and baked goods, were the desserts and breads.

Our pastry chef, Cati, simply knocked it out of the park every single day. She was on my previous UnCruise in Alaska and to this day I recall her delicious macarons and Nanaimo bars! I was thrilled to meet her again on this sailing.

Delicious pastry with meringue on UnCruise

Delicious pastry with meringue. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Pre-cruise Hotel

My husband and I flew from Toronto on an Air Canada flight direct to Honolulu on the island O’ahu.

We stayed a night in the Western Plaza Hotel near the airport; the hotel shuttled us from the airport to the hotel and then back to the airport for our flight to Kona the next day.




Day-by-Day Highlights of an UnCruise Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise

Day 1: Big Island of Hawaii — Boarding At the Kailua Kona Pier

We flew from Honolulu to Kona, and transferred to a hotel where UnCruise had a hospitality suite.

We walked along Ali’i Drivethe coastal road with shops selling expensive coffee and every colour of Hawaiian shirts.

Returning to the hospitality suite at 4:00pm, we walked to the Safari Explorer, and were greeted with a warm “aloha” and “mahalo” by Dai Mar, our expedition leader.

Judi & Lawrence in Kona about to board the Safari Explorer.

Judi & Lawrence in Kona about to board the Safari Explorer. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Immediately following the safety briefing we went out to the bow, champagne glasses in hand, to set sail and enjoy our first dinner.

Bow-riding dolphins led us off into our first beautiful Hawaiian sunset.

Sail Away drinks on the bow of Safari Explorer

Sail Away drinks on the bow. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 2: Big Island Of Hawaii — The Kona Coast

We woke up early to be ready for our snorkel tour in Kealakekua Bay (also known as Captain Cook Bay).

We left the ship by Zodiac and then transferred to a faster Zodiac to reach the perfect snorkeling site with shallow clear water where we saw corals, sea stars, pufferfish, trumpetfish and brightly coloured parrotfish.

Snorkeling in Capt Cook Bay.

Snorkeling in Capt Cook Bay. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Next up was an hour-long Zodiac safari in search of whales and other wildlife.

We saw the ocean “boiling” with fish, as our guide described it, as we approached a large floating metal ball. Called a “fish aggregating device” or FAD, it was fastened to the ocean floor over 5,000 feet down, by the State of Hawaii to make it easier for fishermen to find fish.

The coastline was beautiful and the safari was invigorating as we saw several pelagic (sea) bird species like wedge-tailed shearwaters and brown boobies, though unfortunately we did not see whales.

Returning to the Safari Explorer after snorkeling

Returning to the Safari Explorer after snorkeling. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 3: Big Island of Hawaii — Sea Turtles, Volcano Hikes & the Notorious Alenuihaha Channel

With a quick ride on the skiff we landed in the pristine waters of the Kaloka-Honokohau National Historical Park, greeted by Pacific golden plover and black crowned night herons.

As we walked on the rocks through the shallow waters, we spotted large green sea turtles sunning themselves on the flat rocks.

Sea Turtle sunning itself in the Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park

Sea Turtle sunning itself in the Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The clear turquoise water glistened as we returned to the ship.

Some of the points we passed looked like they could have been scenes from Gilligan’s Island!

Meanwhile, the rest of the group headed 5,000 feet up the slope of Hualalai Volcano for a big hike through native Hawaiian forest experiencing a side of Hawaii that few get to see.

The hike is completely on private land, handed down and protected from the Hawaiian royalty, and is home to species of very rare Hawaiian honeycreepers.

Lunch was served on board and we waited for the guests to return who were on an extreme hike up a volcano.

In the mid-afternoon we gathered on the bow for whale watching. At sunset, cocktails including a daily signature drink were served on the rooftop.

In the evenings after dinner Dai Mar, our cruise director and marine animal expert, arranged for speakers on interesting topics.

This night, he presented Tips and Tricks for iPhone photography.

We all had our phones out trying each trick, just like a classroom of curious children. Crowing about our new skills to one another — like opening the camera instantly from the home screen without logging in — the bar was still hopping when I went to bed just after 10:30 pm.

iphone tips and tricks class

iphone tips session with Dai Mar in the Salon on Main Deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Overnight we began crossing the Alenuihaha Channel, notorious for its rough waters, although Dai Mar said the forecast was favourable.

We were told that in preparation for the crossing they would batten down everything on the ship. The skiffs were brought onto the stern deck using a crane, and all furniture was pulled in.

We were asked not to use the outside steps and instructed to fasten everything down in our cabins. The crew recommended an anti-nausea drug with dinner to prevent seasickness.

I was fine; however, my husband and others were quite seasick overnight.

Day 4: Maui — The Rugged Southeast Coast In Pursuit Of More Whales

In the morning, things were calm again. Some guests did a kayak tour paddling along the rugged Maui coast in the Puu Waa Waa State Wildlife Sanctuary, at Pu’u Olai.

I did the same route on a skiff tour looking for whales as well.

Accompanying us on this skiff tour was our expedition guide, Annie, whose passion for whales was palpable and totally infectious.

When we saw some whale spouts, Annie giddily burst out with poetry that went something like this:

If you see a spout shout it out;
If you see a tail, whale;
If you see a blow, let me know;
If you see a flipper tell the skipper;
If you see a fluke don’t puke; and
If you see a breach holler and screech.

I sure hope Annie writes a children’s book about whales!

We had time for a wild and wonderful mid-morning free swim as well as kayaking, going out on stand-up paddle boards, and showing off with high dives off the Cabin Deck dive platform.

The deep water was quite calm and very warm.

Free swim and paddleboarding at Pu'u Olai, Maui

Free swim and paddleboarding at Pu’u Olai, Maui. * Photo: Judi Cohen

In the afternoon we cruised around the Maui’s Molokini Crater, the abandoned island used by the US Navy in World War II for target practice and then to detonate unexploded munitions inside the crater.

While cruising we saw humpback whales with their babies, as well as a whale shark, not commonly seen in these waters.

A baby whale tale sighting in the waters off Maui.

A baby whale tale sighting in the waters off Maui. * Photo: Judi Cohen

VIDEO: See a mother and baby whale breaching together, below.

 

We cruised around the peaceful Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary in search of whales and other wildlife.

And it was wonderful to hear what whales sound like when they communicate under the water. Annie had a listening device she shared with us.

Listen below!

It is quite extraordinary to be on a ship whose captain will spontaneously turn the ship if wildlife is spotted and the ship will stay in place so that all guests have had viewing time.




Day 5:  The Island Of Lana’i

We got up extra early for a snorkel off the rugged west side of Lana’i at a spot called Shark Fin Rock.

The water was crystal clear and we could see about eight feet down to the sandy bottom surrounding a rocky pinnacle, shaped like a shark fin.

Shark Fin Rock on the West side of Lana'i.

Shark Fin Rock on the West side of Lana’i. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Huge schools of yellow butterflyfish hovered near the pinnacle. The water was quite rough with strong currents.

We saw large sea turtles swimming and bumping into us as they came to the surface for air, as well as plenty of colourful corals and yellow, turquoise and striped fish.

The rough waters during snorkeling caused Lawrence and some others to get seasick and to return to the skiffs.

Returning from snorkeling in Lana'i.

Returning from snorkeling in Lana’i. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Back on board, we had brunch.

Afterwards, we went to Manele Bay, a small boat harbour, to shuttle ashore for a van guided tour of the island.

I was thrilled to visit the Lanai Cat Sanctuary. They rescue cats from protected areas where native and endangered ground-nesting birds such as the ‘Ua’u, the Hawaiian Petrel live. Cats are also rescued from Lanai City, and brought to the sanctuary.

There were 650 resident cats when we visited. Each cat has a name.

Next we were taken to Lana’i’s Shipwreck Beach overlook on the north side of the island with a panoramic view, and then we had free time to explore Lana’i City, which was the centre of the Dole Plantation and now a thriving artisan community.

Larry Ellison the founder of Oracle owns 98% of the island, hence its name, the Private Island.

Lana'i Cat Sanctuary

Judi and Lawrence at the Lana’i Cat Sanctuary. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 6:  Maui — It’s All About The Whales

Back to Maui, the ship anchored off Lahaina and we got up at the crack of dawn for a sunrise whale-watching skiff tour.

We saw many humpback whale moms and babies.

The tranquility and views of the shore were breathtaking. We left before 6:00 am and were back in time for breakfast.

Early morning whale watching skiff tour in Maui

Early morning whale watching skiff tour in Maui. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Then we all went on a guided snorkelling adventure at Mala Wharf with many giant sea turtles and a sea turtle cleaning station.

Following lunch, we enjoyed free time exploring the old whaling town of Lahaina in the afternoon, sampling some shave-ice browsing in the small souvenir and clothing shops, and watching all the small boats in the harbour.

Day 7:  Molokai — The Halawa Valley Rainforest

Of all the islands we visited, Molokai was my favourite.

Molokai is the birthplace of hula and many other Hawaiian traditional practices.

Beautiful Molokai.

Beautiful Molokai. * Photo: UnCruise

The highlight was arriving, after a one-hour drive on a winding coastal road with steep cliffs, at the sacred Halawa Valley Rainforest, one of the oldest inhabited locations in Hawaii.

We walked to the home of Pilipo Solatorio, who lives off-the-grid with his roosters, goats and dogs roaming freely into his home. He is the last of his generation living in the isolated valley.

Pilipo is the oldest living person in the Halawa Valley who was born and raised there. One of his sons, Greg, was by his father’s side sharing stories about their lives and culture.

(Update: We are sad to learn that dear Pilipo passed away in June 2024.)

Listening to stories from the old day on a small ship Hawaii cruise

Listening to stories from the old days. * Photo: UnCruise

He demonstrated how traditional poi was made from taro. The starchy staple is definitely an acquired taste, quite sweet, with a gooey texture.

Some guests went for a hike to the towering Mo’o Ula waterfall in Halawa Cathedral Valley.

Mo'o Ula waterfall excursions on a small ship Hawaii cruise

Some folks in the group opted to hike the several miles to the Mo’o Ula waterfall in Halawa Cathedral Valley, which departs from Pilipo’s property. * Photo: Judi Cohen

I was content to stay with Pilipo and Greg to hear their stories and enjoy their home-grown hospitality.

UnCruise Hawaii visit to Philipo & greg home

Greg and Pilipo Solatorio with Judi in their off-the-grid home in the Halawa Valley on the Island of Moloka”i * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

As if this day wasn’t enriching enough, in the evening we went to the Molokai Museum for a pa’ina, a Hawaiian feast, overflowing with local delicacies.

I was “voluntold” to be part of a homestyle Hawaiian jam session, which was embarrassing for me but entertaining for everyone else!

At the Pa'ina on a smal-ship Hawaii cruise

At the Pa’ina. * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

We returned to the ship and were greeted by a lovely rainbow, below.

VIDEO: Below, Judi shows us the rainbow.

 

Our our last evening we were treated to a slideshow of our cruise highlights, put together by the staff, in the lounge.




Day 8: Disembarkation in Molokai

The crew in their Hawaiian attire were out on the ship deck and on the dock smiling and waving as we left our fabulous floating home for the last seven nights.

Safari explorer crew waves good bye to the guests of this small ship Hawaii cruise

A last farewell to our incredible crew of the Safari Explorer. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Next, we transferred to the Molokai Hotel to enjoy the pool and beach until our scheduled transfers to the airport.

What’s Included in a Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise with UnCruise?

  • Group transfers and baggage handling between airport/vessel on embark/disembark day
  • Entry fees to national parks/preserves
  • From-the-vessel adventure activities and equipment
  • Activities and shore visits
  • All meals aboard the vessel
  • Premium wine, beer and liquor (excludes super-premium wines)
  • Non-alcoholic beverages
  • Wellness amenities
  • Onboard expedition/heritage guides and guest experts

RELATED: Check out these whale-watching tips for small-ship cruisers!

Post Cruise Travels

After the cruise ended, we flew on Molokini Airlines from Molokai to Honolulu arriving at remote Terminal 3 at the Daniel K. Inouye International Airport, formerly know as the Honolulu International Airport (HNL).

I arranged for a driver with Blacklane limousines, who I rely on all over the world for transfers, to pick us up and take us to the recently renovated Outrigger Reef Waikiki Beach resort for a two-night stay.

Outrigger Reef Waikiki Resort

Our room was stylish and bright with a balcony and ocean view, a King size bed and a nice desk and seating area. It has a nice pool and beachfront and is centrally located near Beach Walk, a shopping and dining area.

I walked over to see the Waikiki Beachcomber Hotel by Outrigger which I had heard a lot about, and for good reason. I had Kona coffee in the Aroma restaurant adjacent to the pool on the second floor. This hotel has a young, hip vibe great for people watching.

They were preparing for an Earth Day art exhibit throughout the hotel focussed on sustainability and plastics in the oceans.

After just two nights, we headed home on a direct flight to Toronto with Air Canada.

I could have easily spent more time in Hawaii adventuring off-the-beaten-path with UnCruise.

After hearing so much about other guests’ multiple cruises with UnCruise in Baha, Costa Rica, Panama, Alaska and the Galapagos, it’ll be hard to choose which one to do next.

Tips For Small-Ship Hawaii Cruises with UnCruise

  • Pack light. Bring a bathing suit, a couple of athletic shirts, shorts, pants, sweatshirt, hat with strings, sunglasses with a strap, water shoes, deck shoes and a sturdy pair of hiking shoes.
  • Everything is casual; you can even come to meals in shorts and bare feet if you like.
  • Ample reef-safe suntan lotion and bug spray is provided on board. No need to bring your own.
  • For swimming and snorkeling I recommend bringing a rash guard long sleeve top to avoid sunburn.
  • A very cool old school bathing suit spinner on the top deck dries your bathing suit in just seconds. Take advantage of it while on board.
  • Be sure to advise UnCruise if you have any food allergies or preferences. The chef adjusts meal ingredients accordingly.
  • If you’re prone to sea sickness, definitely bring along sea bands and medication (my husband wore a digital relief band he found online that worked well for him; they were invented for women suffering from nausea associated with morning sickness!); the rough seas on this itinerary are a challenge for some (but not for me!). I’d estimate the seas were rough about 20% of the time, mostly at night.
Lawrence, all smiles on skiff after visit to Lahaina - Judi Cohen

Until next time. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Interested in this UnCruise Off-Beat Small-Ship Hawaii Cruise?

This 7-night “Hawaiian Seascapes Cruise” starts at $5,900 per person.

SAVE: Mention code QUIRKY500 to save $500 per person on most UnCruise itineraries.

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About The Author

Judi Cohen

Judi Cohen has travelled to more than 80 countries with her family, and as a tour leader. Writing about her off-the-beaten track journeys by train, helicopter, plane and small quirky cruise ships is her passion.

2 Comments

  1. David Johnson AKA Dancing Turtle

    We did this trip in 2014, one of 6 trips on Un-Cruise. On our last night in Molokai it happened to be Valentine Day and our 35th wedding anniversary. We asked if we could just stay on board for dinner and skip the pa’ina. Our favorite wait staff person set up a romantic upper deck dinner for us. I am a big fan, UCA really gives guests a great experience.

    Reply
    • Judi

      Hi David
      What a wonderful Valentines Day celebration! UnCruise knows hospitality and adventure. Cheers! Judi

      Reply

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