Burgundy Canal Barge Cruise on L’Impressionniste
By Robin McKelvie
The lock eases open and we glide through the morning mists under an embrace of giant oak trees. A heron startles off ahead; above a red kite scans for prey. As the emerald forests and hills rise, we retreat inside to a breakfast of freshly baked croissants the cruise manager has just cycled off to a boulangerie for.
And proper coffee. It’s not wine time yet, of course, but that’s a delight to come.
The 12-pax L’Impressionniste. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Welcome to the 12-passenger L’Impressionniste, not just the finest way to discover the joyous Burgundy Canal, but a real alternative to cruising the more famous Canal du Midi.
The Burgundy Canal sweeps for 150 miles, connecting the River Yonne at Migennes with the River Saone at St-Jean-de-Losne, through a system of 189 locks.
Taxes to build it were first raised as far back as 1607, but construction didn’t begin until over a century later.
VIDEO: One of the locks L’Impressionniste passed through on Robin’s 6-day barge cruise.
After Pierre-Paul Riquet, the seminal figure behind the Canal du Midi, saw his ambitious plans rejected, work eventually began in 1777 during Louis XVI’s reign. But the French Revolution and the Napoleonic Wars hampered progress. The Pouilly Tunnel alone took two years to build, using — it is said — English prisoners of war.
The two-mile long Pouilly Tunnel marks the highest summit of any French canal at 378m above sea level. The basin at its southern entrance also marks the start of my luxury barge cruise with European Waterways.
We’re welcomed aboard L’Impressionniste by the beaming faces of Burgundian-born host Diana and similarly smooth Portuguese host Miguel.
Robin and his wife Jenny on L’Impressionniste. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
They furnish us with champagne on the large open deck and we settle into introductions — all my fellow guests are North Americans.
“We attract a lot of North Americans,” smiles Diana, “but of course everyone is welcome aboard. I personally really enjoy sharing my love of the most beautiful part of France.”
I wake early on the first morning of this six-night cruise and cannot disagree with Diana’s assertion.
VIDEO: The early morning scene below inspires Robin to wax poetic about the joys of barge cruising.
Cycling along the tow path — they also have bikes available for guests — I ease along under hulking oak and ash trees, emerald hills and thicker forests blinking through the sun-dappled leaves.
The farms here are a pleasing pattern of small holdings rather than North American-style industrial farming. I’m never alone on this, or any of the flurry of strolls and bike rides I enjoy, on a what is really a hop on and off cruise.
I mean never alone as I savour a whole host of wildlife.
One morning, I spot a squirrel; the same morning I catch sight of an elusive otter searching for breakfast in the morning mists. One night I spy a fox, one afternoon a red deer.
On a brief forest foray away from the canal I’m glad I don’t encounter any wild boar, a species that thrives in the wilds of sparsely populated Burgundy. I resolve to come back to catch sight of a creature Diana tells me about — the Nutria, a large web-footed rodent, bigger than an otter and smaller than a beaver.
We see many mayflies too, glorious insects who have to make the most of their one day alive. At our first dinner we all joke that being on the L’Impressionniste we’re doing this every day!
RELATED: Is a barge cruise for you? Check out our Barge Cruise Tips.
Fabulous Meals
The first dinner sets the tone. Towering Latvian chef Arnis has worked in Michelin-starred kitchens. It shows.
Chef Arnis. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
We kick off with a delicious goat’s cheese salad, the richness of the cheese balanced with the sharp sweetness of caramelized onions. Fillet mignon stars as the main in one of Arnis’ perfectly curated sauces — a silky smooth mushroom cream.
Steak risotto on L’Impressionniste was another favorite. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
The Salmon dish was very tasty. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Delicious chicken with wild asparagus. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
The cheese course is delicately presented with a slice each of Brie de Meaux, Fourme d’Ambert and Saint Maure de Touraine.
The beloved cheese course. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
As if all that isn’t enough, we finish with chocolate mousse alive with fresh berries.
The Wines of my Burgundy Canal Barge Cruise
The wines at this first dinner continue the decadence. European Waterways have their own wine cellar, focusing on the best of Burgundy, one of the world’s most illustrious wine regions.
Each meal brings a choice of white or red (occasionally rose). Stand out reds include a flurry of Burgundian pinot noirs, as well as a superb guest from the Rhone: Chateauneuf de Pape.
Wine time on L’Impressionniste. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
The whites too dapple across to Sancerre and Alsace, but swing back to Burgundy for the highlight of a glorious Chablis Grand Cru les Blanchots 2015.
All this glorious wine would count for little if we didn’t have a fantastic barge. And L’Impressionniste is fantastic.
This sturdy Dutch bolthole was built in 1960, stretching 38.65m long by just over five metres wide.
Our trusty Dutch bolthole barge L’Impressionniste. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
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L’Impressionniste’s Interior
A recent renovation has really spruced up cabins that make the most of the narrow canal barge constraints, with imaginative storage and a good-sized bathroom.
She sleeps up to a dozen passengers, with cabins named, of course, after Impressionist artists. Four staterooms are augmented with two larger junior suites — all rooms lie below.
The teak-floored interior above the cabins at deck level is light, airy and welcoming. At one end of the saloon is the large oak dining table. Forward towards the bow, this turns into a sofa area and then to a small bar with a couple of stools.
The main saloon. * Photo: European Waterways
Walls are bedecked in paintings and prints evoking the Impressionist era.
The dining area of the saloon. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Outside a sun awning is welcome, providing shade to a wooden table and chairs.
A small step leads fore to a large area with chairs and sun loungers, brightened by flowers and the herbs Arnis uses in his culinary creations.
Burgundian snails on L’Impressionnist. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
L’Impressionniste’s piece de resistance lies right on the bow: a six-person hot tub. It’s quite a feeling ambling along admiring Burgundy’s countryside with a glass of bubbly in your hand as you bubble away.
Robin enjoying the hot tub on L’Impressionniste. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
This epitome of decadence is trumped at night with a Scotch on the rocks gazing up at the stars as my limbs ease into the hot water and the stresses and strains of the modern world dissolve.
Given this level of comfort and luxury it’s tempting to just spend all your time aboard L’Impressionniste; indeed one lovely gent largely does just that.
L’Impressionniste is a destination in and of itself. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
I don’t, not with the glories of Burgundy to explore with our knowledgeable captain and cruise manager Albert.
We have a minibus tracking us that allows easy access to a whole range of attractions.
Albert telling us about the vineyards. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
L’Impressionniste eases gently through the picturesque Ouche Valley in Southern Burgundy with an excursion every day, bar the arrival night.
Day 2 Takes us to Château de Commarin
First up is a private falconry display and very personal tour of the gorgeous Château de Commarin from its current incumbent Bertrum, whose family have lived here for centuries.
Château de Commarin. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Medieval Fortress on Day 3
The next day it’s medieval Châteauneuf-en-Auxois, a glorious fortress surrounded by a picture-postcard hilltop village that peers back down towards the Burgundy Canal.
One of countless charming Burgundian villages. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Day 4 is all about the Chablis
Day four sees us drive over the hills into the famous UNESCO World Heritage listed vineyards, where irrigation is banned, but world-class wines like Chablis and Meursault abound.
Our debonair French host lets us into the inner circle of Caveau Chanson with a private wine tasting — including their stellar Montrachet — and a gastronomic lunch.
The private wine talk and tasting at Caveau Chanson. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
A Visit to Clos de Vougeot on Day 5
The wine theme continues the next day with a visit to the historic Clos de Vougeot, home of the Chevaliers du Tastevin, monks who cultivated wine in Burgundy.
Clos de Vougeot. * Photo: https://www.closdevougeot.fr/en/galery
Dijon on Day 6
Our last day brings Dijon, one of France’s 20 largest cities.
We ramble around the old quarter making stops at the covered market, a wonderful oasis of fine food and drink that makes us all crave to live in France.
Robin & Jenny in a Dijon covered market. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Dijon is, of course, famous for its mustard and I snare a jar of tarragon infused mustard.
The cruise ends as it began in a wash of fine food, superb wines and glowing hospitality.
We toast to all three with a last starry night sky nightcap.
It’s a fitting end to a scenic, soulful and spirit-soaring voyage on France’s less famous — but definitely no less rewarding — canal.
And so after six nights on board L’Impressionniste, we depart our Burgundy Canal Barge Cruise on day seven.
Au Revoir.
Au revoir L’Impressionniste. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Burgundy Canal Barge Cruise Quick Facts
Itineraries & Fares
European Waterways offer six-night cruises on the Burgundy Canal on L’Impressionniste between Escommes and Fleurey-sur-Ouche.
Per person fares from $5,590 per person, all-inclusive, including all drinks, meals and excursions.
Also available for private charter — 12 passenger charters start from $63,500. (When booking, mention QuirkyEW22 for a free gift!)
Getting There
Passengers are picked up in Paris no matter which direction your cruise is operating in. There are multiple options for flying into the French capital, with most flights going into Charles de Gaulle Airport. Guests are picked up at Hotel Westminster (www.warwickhotels.com), a solid four-star in the centre.
For a real splurge before or after your cruise, treat yourself to a night at arguably the best hotel in town, the nearby Le Bristol (www.oetkercollection.com). The rooftop maritime-themed swimming pool kicks off your luxury barge experience in serious style.
The rooftop pool of Le Bristol. * Photo: https://www.oetkercollection.com/hotels/le-bristol-paris/
Burgundy Canal Barge Cruise Tips
Don’t forget the sunscreen as the sun can be intense in this part of France during the warmer months.
Conversely, pack a sweater for spring and autumn cruises as it can really cool down in the evenings and on pre-breakfast strolls.
Weather in Burgundy, France
Burgundy’s cooler weather — compared to some parts of France — is ideal for wine production and for barge cruising.
Spring mornings can be very cool and days are rarely too hot.
Summer days can be extremely hot (especially in August), but the vessel is air conditioned, with individual controls in each cabin and there is often a breeze on the canal.
Latter Fall is a lovely time to cruise as temperatures ease and the trees change colour.
The Burgundy Canal closes for the winter, with European Waterways’ L’Impressionniste commencing cruises in April and then sailing continuously in both directions until November.
The Burgundy barge canal season is April through early November. * Photo: Robin McKelvie
Money Matters
The Euro is the currency of France. Credit cards and cash are widely accepted. In markets cash is de rigueur.
Interested in this Burgundy canal barge cruise?
RELATED: Mention QuirkyEW22 when booking any full charters with European Waterways and get a free set of lovely travel-friendly Turkish Towels!
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HEIDI SARNA
We are barge people, but not wine people. We are BEER people. Would this cruise suite us.
Not interested in any wine tasting etc. Just love Rivers/Locks/and people.
Thank you
If you wanted to gather your own group of friends/family to charter a barge, we could advise you about which ones would be best for “beer & barging.” It would be a great theme! We’re also working on trying to put together a “beer & barging” cruise (non charter) for those interested in beer … this would be in the Netherlands, Ireland and/or France. Stay tuned!