French Polynesia Feels Like Paradise
By Judi Cohen @TravelingJudi
Struck by wanderlust while still a little nervous about venturing too far from home as the COVID pandemic lingered on, I finally decided to travel to one of the most remote and exotic paradises imaginable: Tahiti in French Polynesia.
My lifelong dream of an adventure on a romantic sailing ship in Tahiti was calling, and I answered this past spring (May 2022).
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Arriving in Tahiti: The Long Flight was Worth It
Since the flying time from Toronto to Tahiti was over 15 hours, via San Francisco, we built in an extra week before the cruise to explore, relax and adjust to the new time zone.
Upon arrival in Papeete we overnighted at the cozy Fare Suisse guest house near the airport. The next morning, we flew with Air Tahiti to the island of Raiatea.
For five nights we stayed at Raiatea Lodge Hotel, a lovely small resort with a mix of hotel rooms and bungalows. The room rate included meals and the use of kayaks and paddle boards.
From the front deck of our bungalow we watched spectacular Tahitian sunsets every night over the palm trees and water.
Sunset view from Raiatea hotel. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Enjoying Windstar’s Pre-Cruise Hotel Stay
Departing Raiatea, we flew back to Papeete and were transferred by Windstar Cruises to Le Tahiti Pearl Resort for our one-night pre-cruise hotel stay, which is included in Windstar’s fares.
The hotel is located on a quiet bay with a black sand beach and a spectacular pool with a clear view of the Island of Moorea. It’s outside of town so you need to have all your meals at the resort.
Sunset view from Le Tahiti Hotel with Moorea in the background. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Once a week the hotel offers a traditional Polynesian Marquisien show with dinner that we enjoyed.
VIDEO: Check out these great dancers!
Using the hotel’s complimentary morning and afternoon shuttle service to downtown Papeete, we could shop in the central market and stores and walk along the waterfront, where I saw the Wind Spirit for the first time.
Wanting to see a little more of Tahiti before the cruise, we booked a full-day 4X4 tour across the island, traveling through the rainforest and then having lunch overlooking a huge crater.
View at lunch in the interior of the island of Tahiti. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Just prior to the commencement of the cruise, my husband needed to return to Canada unexpectedly. He flew home but encouraged me to go on the cruise as planned.
It was not my plan to be on a romantic sailing yacht alone, but life is full of surprises.
And this is my story:
Tahiti Windstar Cruise Review — The Route
Starting in Papeete, the 11-night voyage with Windstar Cruises on Wind Spirit included visits to two of French Polynesia’s five island groups, the remote Tuamotu Islands and the more popular Society Islands. (Note, Windstar’s 11-night cruise is packaged with a pre-cruise hotel night, for a total of 12 nights).
It took a full day at sea in each direction to cruise between the two island groups and was well worth the extra time.
Tahiti Windstar Cruise map.
Introducing the Wind Spirit Small Sailing Yacht
The four-deck Wind Spirit motorized sailing yacht has a capacity of 148 guests,; on my sailing, there were only 118 guests aboard, along with 101 crew members.
Nearly all of the cabins are 188-square-foot Deluxe Ocean View Staterooms located on Decks 1 and 2. There’s one 220-square-foot Ocean View Owner’s Suite.
The ship’s medical centre, fitness room and watersports platform are on Deck 2.
Deck 3 is where the action is — you’ll find the Amphora Restaurant, Star Boutique, a small library with a computer, the Wind Spa, lounge, bar, and the Yacht Club Café serving coffees, smoothies, breakfast, snacks and lunch.
Most of the outdoor space was up on Deck 4, with the pool, whirlpool and pool bar at the aft with plenty of lounge beds and towels.
Midship was the Veranda Restaurant serving breakfast and lunch; it’s turned into the outdoor specialty restaurant Candles for dinner and requires reservations.
The bridge and Sun Deck are located forward of the Veranda Restaurant.
All decks are accessed by two staircases.
In my opinion, the Wind Spirit would not be suitable for persons with significant mobility issues as it does not have an elevator.
Wind Spirit in Bora Bora. On Judi’s cruise, the sails were up fully about 20% of the time; and partially, about 30%. * Photo: Judi Cohen
My Wind Spirit Cabin
Stateroom 208 on Deck 2, was configured with one double bed, and had a small built-in seating area with a table, TV, closets, dresser and shelves, and a nice bright bathroom with shower and toilet.
When I entered my cabin for the first time, the curtains were pulled back and I had a full view of the ocean through the portholes.
Flowers and a bottle of champagne were on my dresser, and the mini-bar was fully stocked with wine, liquor, soda, juice and small snacks. It was replenished daily.
The vanity area in the bathroom was brightly lit, and had lots of storage for toiletries.
Windstar provided shampoo, conditioner, soap, body wash and moisturizer, hair dryer and comfy bathrobe.
VIDEO: Judi gives us a thorough tour of her cabin, #208.
My Daily Routine on my Tahiti Windstar Cruise
Not wanting to miss even a moment of this cruise, I was awake at 6:30 am every day.
Room service was available 24-hours; however I preferred to go to the bow for a morning stretch and yoga followed by breakfast starting at 7:30 am in the Veranda Restaurant, which served both buffet and a la carte.
The Yacht Club Café offered a coffee bar during the day.
Lunch was offered in the Veranda Restaurant, with buffet and full-service options available.
In the evening, the Amphora Restaurant served dinner from 7pm.
The upscale restaurant, Candles could be booked twice during an 11-night cruise from 7pm onwards.
Candles for dinner with sea views. * Photo: Windstar
Morning and afternoon excursions were offered on most days. It was difficult to choose from an extensive choice of excursions that included scuba, snorkeling, jet ski tours, helicopter rides, overnight villa stays and island driving excursions.
It was helpful to have a booklet in my cabin describing each excursion in detail along with the length and level of activity (easy, moderate and strenuous), plus the price for each.
All excursions were at additional cost (most between about $40 and $150 each), and could be booked in advance and on board. Once reserved, cancellations were permitted up to 24 hours in advance of the excursion.
A port talk was given nightly at 6:30 pm, followed by cocktails in the lounge or at the pool bar.
After dinner some folks returned to the lounge for trivia games and live music.
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My Itinerary, Day by Day
Day 1 — All aboard in Papeete: My Tahiti Windstar Cruise Review
Windstar transferred me from the hotel to the port in Papeete and within an hour all the passengers who tested negative for COVID were on board.
While waiting for my test results, Teresa, the Wind Spirit Hotel Manager came over and I confirmed that my husband would not be on the cruise.
She assured me I would never be “alone” with the Windstar family.
After being shown to my cabin, I booked spa treatments, picked up my snorkeling equipment, made dinner reservations in the specialty al fresco restaurant, Candles, and then attended the mandatory safety briefing and listened to an orientation with Nicola, the guest services manager.
Dinner at Amphora was a heavenly way start to my cruise. I dined alone this first night, and the staff and maitre d’ were welcoming and made me feel very comfortable.
The Amphora restaurant. * Photo: Windstar Cruises
Windstar is the official small ship cruise line of the prestigious culinary “James Beard Foundation.”
I ordered the signature tomato tart with a semolina cheddar crust, followed by a classic caesar salad and a New York strip steak, all prepared to perfection.
Tomato Tart with semolina cheddar cheese crust. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The Maître d’ and staff provided outstanding personal service.
A tray of chocolate dipped strawberries had been left in my cabin and I couldn’t resist having some even though I had coconut ice cream at dinner.
Day 2 — Sea Day, Small Ship Cruising from Papeete to Fakarava in the Tuamotu Islands
I used our sea day cruising to Fakarava as an opportunity to learn about the places we would be visiting and the people we’d be meeting on the various islands, atolls and motus.
A morning presentation by Jona, the excursions leader, was attended by most passengers. It was both informative and enjoyable as Jona explained our itinerary and the excursion options each day highlighting those that were more strenuous.
This was helpful and allowed everyone time to consider and reconsider our choices of excursions.
Jona answered questions and happily spent time with us afterwards to adjust our excursion choices accordingly.
The guest lecturer on our sailing was journalist and author Joseph (Joe) Novitski who shared fascinating stories about French Polynesian culture and history, and about the history of Windstar Cruises’ first sailing vessel, Wind Star.
Historian Joseph Novitski presenting in the lounge. * Photo: Judi Cohen
He shared his stories about spending long stretches in France and Finland following the design and construction of Wind Star, which he said was the world’s first sailing cruise ship.
I was grateful that Windstar’s Hotel Manager, Teresa, invited me to dinner at Candles.
Judi with Teresa Haughey, the Hotel Général Manager of Wind Spirit. * Photo: Judi Cohen
We enjoyed a scrumptious and beautifully prepared dinner under the stars, sharing a bottle of Hess Select — Cabernet Sauvignon — with sea bass, creamed spinach and a cauliflower dish.
Day 3 — Snorkel Heaven in Rotoava, Fakarava
We cruised 248 nautical miles from Papeete to reach the atoll of Fakarava, and I awoke to glistening pink sand beaches.
Classified by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve, the waters are flush with corals and a wide variety of fish species common to the area, including sharks, tropical groupers, parrot fish, and trigger fish.
In the morning I took a tender to the dock in the small town of Rotoava for a walk with a few other guests.
Welcomed by the sounds of ukuleles, we strolled slowly along the beach, passing small thatch-roofed stores, churches and schools.
Without a cloud in the sky, the temperature rose until it was too hot to walk in the burning sun, so we returned to the ship and headed to the watersports platform at the stern to jump in the water and cool down.
Cooling off at the watersports “adventure” platform with all the toys during free time in Fakarava. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Following lunch, I gathered my snorkel gear, bathing suit and rash guard to go by Zodiac to Pufana.
Although I was a little nervous about being signed up for an excursion described as “strenuous,” I donned my mask and fins and slid off the Zodiac for a 2-hour snorkel adventure in the ultra-warm waters.
Carried by the current, with fish of all varieties swirling around me, I barely lifted my head out of the water.
This snorkeling excursion turned out to be one of the highlights of the cruise for me, and I wanted to do as much snorkeling as I could.
More snorkeling in Pufana Fakarava. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Standing on the bow with an Aperol Spritz in hand to enjoy the sunset as we sailed away from Fakarava, the giant white sails began to unfurl as Vangelis’s “Conquest of Paradise” was playing.
At this moment, I was overwhelmed with emotion, and knew I had fallen in love with Windstar’s special kind of sailing.
Romantic Sail Away on Windstar. * Photo: Judi Cohen
My favorite sundowner, an Aperol Spritz on the stern. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 4 — Turquoise Paradise in Tiputa Rangiroa
My day started with a tender, bus and small boat ride to the Green Lagoon.
Welcomed by a happy man playing the ukulele and singing Elvis Presley songs, we were all smiles!
A warm welcome by our host at the Green Lagoon in Rangiroa. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The Green Lagoon is a quiet family home on a sandy beach with turquoise water, and we were treated like family to fresh cut coconut chunks, coconut milk, and other drinks.
I felt like I was on my own island far away from everyday life. We could snorkel, kayak or just lay on the beach.
Three hours passed quickly and as we were getting back on the boat each of us received a woven grass headband and shell beads, and our happy ukulele-playing friend sang a farewell song for us.
In the afternoon I snorkelled for an hour at the Aquarium Coral Garden, near the dock where the tenders landed. The water was very calm and the corals were teeming with colourful tropical fish.
Upon returning to the ship, I went to the Spa to have a much-appreciated deep tissue massage. My masseuse applied just the right amount of pressure.
While off the ship on our excursions, the crew had been feverishly converting the pool deck into a party venue and cooking up paella, ribs, pork, chicken and seafood.
By evening, an overflowing buffet with salads, desserts and more awaited guests. Tables were set with white linen table cloths and a dance floor was put over the spa pool for the crew to dance up a storm.
Preparing for the BBQ Deck Party on Wind Spirit. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 5 — Sea Day from Rangiroa to Moto Mahaea, Taha’a
On the second sea day we cruised from Rangiroa to Taha’a, which is referred to as the “Vanilla Island” with many lush vanilla plantations exporting vanilla to the world.
I headed to the Bridge deck for a yoga class, and then had breakfast.
Over breakfast, some passengers and I exchanged stories about the Tuamotu Islands and we all agreed that the snorkeling in Fakarava and Rangiroa was some of the best we had ever experienced in our whole lives.
The early riser yoga class on Wind Spirit. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The crew planned a friendly cooking competition in the lounge between the Bar Team and Dining Room Team. It was great fun to watch as they cut, diced, cooked and plated a couple of dishes for sampling by the audience.
Our captain announced that during today’s 262 nautical mile sail to Taha’a we would not see any land or encounter any ships. We were in remote French Polynesia, truly away from it all.
He suggested an early wake-up, around 6:30am to enjoy the scenery as the ship enters the lagoon close to Raiatea and we make our way to Taha’a to drop anchor.
I decided that I would try room service tonight and it did not disappoint.
The table in my cabin converted into a beautiful dinner for one with delicious dishes prepared in the Amphora Restaurant, including caesar salad, French onion soup and gnocchi.
I had a bottle of red wine from my mini-bar to enjoy with my meal.
Home-made potato gnocchi with peas, asparagus and goat cheese cream sauce. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 6 — BBQ & Beach Party on Windstar’s Private Island: Moto Mahaea in Taha’a
The ship anchored one kilometer from Moto Mahaea, Windstar’s “private island” just off the island of Taha’a. The water around this motu was so shallow that tenders could not be used, and instead, rubber Zodiacs were used to get us to our activities.
My morning excursion was a visit to a vanilla plantation followed by some adrenalin-pumping snorkelling.
I moved towards the edge of the Zodiac and looked down into the clear turquoise waters to see at least 75 black tip reef sharks and black stingrays all around the boat.
Everyone else was in the water so I took a deep breath, put my fins on and slid in.
It was absolutely exhilarating. None of us wanted to leave!
VIDEO: Judi snorkels with A LOT reef sharks!
Once back on the Zodiac, we were whisked off to Windstar’s “private island” for a BBQ beach party still wearing our wet bathing suits and rash guards.
Judi arriving at Motu Mahaea private island. * Photo: JudiCohen
A full bar in a tiki hut was stocked with cocktails and local beers.
Tiki Bar on Moto Mahaea, Windstar’s private island. * Photo: Judi Cohen
A beautiful BBQ lunch buffet was prepared with paella, shrimp, chicken, beef and all varieties of salads and cooked vegetables.
Colourful surfboard-shaped cookies were a hit at the end of the meal.
We swam, snorkelled and enjoyed cocktails on the beach until it was time to return to the ship at 4 pm.
Then we set sail shortly afterwards for the two-hour cruise to Raiatea, the second largest French Polynesian port after Papeete, arriving in time for cocktails in the hot tub to watch a beautiful sunset.
I was invited to join our historian Joe Novitski and his partner Susan for dinner at Candles, enjoying fine wine and delicious food under the stars.
Judi in spa tub of Wind Spirit before sunset. * Photo: Judi Cohen
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Day 7 — Raiatea: Road Trip, Pearl Farms & Polynesian History
Although my husband and I spent five nights on Raiatea before the cruise, we did not do much sightseeing, so I was excited to sign up for a Opoa Heritage Tour excursion of the island in the morning (Opoa is a village on the island of Raiatea).
Our tour guide, Tara, spoke with great pride and passion about the island’s history and its people.
I visited a Black Pearl Farm where I learned about the oysters used for the cultivation and export of pearls. Our host noted that the government controls the quality of Tahitian pearls.
Learning about pearls at the Black Pearl Farm. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Each oyster produces a different colour pearl and the nicest ones come from the Tuamotu Islands. He added that almost all of the pearls in Tahiti are exported and only a handful are kept for sale on the islands.
Continuing on our drive we saw passengers from Wind Spirit kayaking on the Faaroa River, along rich fertile grounds and dense vegetation.
While we didn’t see any, we were told that giant wild boars roam the area.
Then we visited a sacred temple ground, designated a UNESCO World Heritage site called Taputapuatea, the cradle of Ma’ohi civilization.
Tara shared her personal stories and memories which brought meaning to our small group as we walked respectfully around the sacred site during the tour and later, in our free time. She prepared refreshing cold fresh fruit kebobs and juices before we drove back to the port.
With free time after lunch, we walked over to the bustling dock. The only grocery store in a 40km radius was located at the pier. There were many clothing and souvenir shops along with drug stores all packed with customers.
Back on board, the Mamas and Papas (no, not those 1970’s mamas and papas), were on the pool deck, making leis, playing ukuleles and dancing with guests.
Mamas and Papas on the pool deck. * Photo: Judi Cohen
In the late afternoon, the captain announced a slight change in plans due to high winds and swells.
To minimize the impact on guests, the ship had already begun sailing and our arrival time in Bora Bora was now 3am instead of 8am.
He apologized that there would not be a “fancy” sail away tonight, much to my disappointment.
Following cocktails, listening to Jeffrey Spence the pianist in the crowded lounge, the ship was already beginning to sway with the higher waves.
Day 8 — Bora Bora: Beaches, Bungalows & Bloody Marys
Bora Bora is the oldest of the Society Islands, formed from volcanic activity some seven million years ago. It was originally known as Vavau, meaning first born.
It’s also where the first overwater bungalows were built in 1971 for which the island is known around the world.
In the morning I did the Island Discovery Tour in a colourful bus, which was a great way to get a taste of Bora Bora and appreciate its natural beauty.
Judi’s ride for an island tour of Bora Bora. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The soft sandy beaches had palm trees growing out over the water, just like in the postcards.
We drove past many luxury resorts with over-water bungalows, including one that was owned by Marlon Brando before he bought his own island with the exclusive Brando Resort.
Stopping for a drink at Bloody Marys, a bar made famous by the celebrities who came to the island over the years, was a treat.
At the bar in Bloody Marys, Bora Bora. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The afternoon snorkeling tours were full so I took a rather tame glass-bottom boat ride.
We passed a number of resorts including The Conrad Bora Bora with some of the largest overwater bungalows in Bora Bora.
Day 9 — Bora Bora: Destination Discovery Party
This would be my last day on the cruise.
As snorkeling in salt water all week turned my hair into a “haystack,” I fortunately had booked a hair appointment at the spa back on the first day of the cruise, anticipating what I might look like by the time I had to fly directly to a family wedding in New York from Papeete.
The spa team did a stellar job and I looked party-ready before I checked out.
With an overnight flight booked from Papeete to New York, I bid farewell to the crew and all my new friends and boarded a tender to the dock to catch a 30-minute ferry ride to Bora Bora Airport for the short flight to Papeete on Air Tahiti.
From there I connected to my overnight flight on United Airlines to Newark Airport, via San Francisco.
As I was disembarking, the crew were preparing for the signature Windstar Destination Discovery Event that night. Friends I met on board sent emails telling me about how wonderful the evening was.
I missed the remaining days of the itinerary with stops on the island of Huahine and Moorea before Wind Spirit returned to Papeete.
However I have already begun to make plans to return to French Polynesia with my husband to experience a Windstar sailing yacht cruise together soon.
Judi Cohen at bow of Wind Spirit. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Judi’s Tips for Planning a Tahiti Windstar Cruise
Windstar Tahiti Itineraries & Fares
- Windstar operates the Wind Spirit in French Polynesia all year-round providing cruise options to suit everyone’s schedule.
- The most popular option is the 7-day, “Tahiti Dreams” cruise in Tahiti and the Society Islands, however, the longer option, 11-days cruising the Tuamotu Islands and the Society Islands, includes visits to remote Fakaravara and Rangiroa.
- Windstar Cruises’ all-inclusive package that includes cruise, air, unlimited Wifi, gratuities, beer, wine & cocktails, plus one pre-cruise hotel night in Papeete, is a good option to consider.
- Most excursions ranged from about $50 to $140 per excursion per person; with a few higher priced options being the $400 Jet Ski Adventure and a romantic overnight bungalow stay in Bora Bora for $2,500 per couple.
Getting There
- Flights from North America connect in either San Francisco or Los Angeles to United Airlines, Air Tahiti Nui, Air France or on a new discount carrier French Bee for onward flights to Papeete.
- Our flight choice was United Airlines/Air Canada from Toronto to San Francisco connecting to United Airlines for an 8.5-hour overnight flight to Papeete.
How to Prepare for the Weather in Tahiti
- Tahiti is an ideal destination any month of the year, however December tends to have higher rainfall levels.
- I experienced heavy rains of short duration in Tahiti in May, however the heat and sun dried everything up almost immediately after the rain stopped.
What Clothing to Pack for a Tahiti Windstar Cruise
- It is possible to take only carry-on luggage for this cruise, which is good news given the current state of airport chaos and baggage issues globally.
- While I took a suitcase, I didn’t wear most of what I packed.
- Instead, I wore bathing suits, rash guards, water shoes and hats for all of the water-based activities; or shorts, walking shoes, a T-shirt and hat for touring.
- It was not necessary to “dress for dinner,” but even if you did, just a sundress or pants is all that is needed.
- Many passengers wore almost the same clothing from morning until night.
Money Matters on a Windstar Tahiti Cruise
- USD was used on the ship, during our tours and at the shops.
- I converted a few dollars into French Polynesian Francs when I arrived in Papeete, which I converted back to USD before flying home from Papeete.
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Judi enjoying an Aperol Spritz at sunset on Wind Spirit. * Photo: Judi Cohen
My Final Word about a Windstar Tahiti Cruise
French Polynesia is a pristine, romantic and exotic destination. And sailing aboard Wind Spirit to remote motus and islands was the ideal way to explore Tahiti and the Tuamotu Islands.
Further, the Windstar staff and crew went above and beyond to make my experience unforgettable.
Hope you enjoyed my Windstar Tahiti cruise review!
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HEIDI SARNA
That looks fantastic. Great report!
Thank you. I enjoyed this cruise immensely!