Review of Hebrides Cruising Straight Out of Mallaig on the Fleur de Lys — UPDATE: Renamed Glen Rosa for Majestic Line

Hebrides Cruising on the Fleur de Lys

By Robin McKelvie

Update from author Sept 22,2023:

“Note that for the 2023 season The Majestic Line acquired the Fleur de Lys and renamed her the Glen Rosa. They have relocated the vessel, in line with their other small ships, cruising out of Oban, which is much further south of Mallaig. This takes away the advantage flagged up in the article of not having to sail up and down the Sound of Mull to get out to the body of water where most of the Hebridean isles lie. Her itineraries now more closely match her Majestic Line siblings. The Fleur de Lys was not as luxuriously appointed as the existing Majestic Line fleet (especially when compared to the spacious Glen Etive and Glen Shiel), so the company have made cosmetic improvements to bring her more in line. I’ve not been able to get aboard yet, but initial reports are mixed regarding the service and comfort. These may just be teething problems. I will report back when I do get access, or another writer may update in the interim. In short the Glen Rosa offers very different itineraries to the Fleur de Lys and she is currently being brought more into line with the rest of the Majestic Line fleet.”

RELATED: Read more about The Majestic Line here.

Sailing through the epic, scenic Sound of Mull is one of Scotland’s great cruising experiences.

But if it’s the Hebrides you’ve come to experience, all the Oban-based ships ‘waste’ a day and half traversing the Sound and forging around Ardnamurchan. Both ways.

Step forward new contender Fleur de Lys, a small ship that has broken the mould sailing out of Mallaig straight into the sheer joy of Hebrides cruising.

The 5-night Fleur de Lys cruise route round-trip out of Mallaig. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

A warm Highland welcome awaits me at Mallaig marina — it should do, as the guy behind the marina and the boatyard owns Fleur de Lys.

The 8-passenger Fleur de Lys. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Meanwhile, the skipper Chris Gray, an ex-British Navy man, beams us a smile and a hearty wave from the bridge.

Smiling too is bosun, chef and local lad Stefan McClellan, who spirits our luggage away and dishes up a lunch that sets the scene — hearty homemade soup and warm bread, followed by muffins baked this morning.

A crew of two aboard the 8-passenger Fleur de Lys. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Inside the Hebrides-Hopping Fleur de Lys

With a maximum of eight passengers Fleur de Lys feels on the cosy side of intimate, with one main galley space to relax in.

This comes with a long dining table, chairs, a collection of books and a TV.

The main galley & hub of the Fleur de Lys looking aft. * Photo: Skye and the Isles Cruises

The main galley looking forward. * Photo: Skye and the Isles Cruises

You don’t need the TV, not when an ever-changing panorama of Scottish islands is slipping by the bountiful windows. There is plenty of outside space, including an upper level that makes the most of the scenery.

Descending to my cabin — all the cabins are below — I find a large space with multiple beds to choose from. I’ve a sneaking suspicion this may become two cabins in time for the 2022 season.

Fleur de Lys’s large main cabin, currently with 4 twin beds. * Photo: Skye and the Isles Cruises

The ship is already in good condition, partly as the owner reworked this old Navy training ship in his yard, and used it as family craft to sail in these waters.

Seeing the explosion and success of small cruise ships in Scotland, skipper Chris Gray jumped on the bandwagon with the unique Mallaig selling point.

Easing out of Mallaig’s busy harbour my headphones fill with the drama of Mendelssohn’s Hebrides Overture. In truth you don’t need any artificial aids to enjoy the utterly unique Hebrides.

If we’d been cruising out of Oban we wouldn’t even be in the Sound of Mull yet, but here I am gazing out at the distinctive pitchstone lava An Sgurr mountain on Eigg and the glowering peaks of Rum, whose Cuillin mountains match those of the more famous island of Skye just across the water.

(In the video below, Robin narrates his departure from Mallaig and into the Hebrides!)

The company name gives away her cruising zone — Skye and the Isles Cruises.

The view from Fleur de Lys. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

SAVE: QuirkyCruisers can SAVE £500 per charter if they use code QuirkySKYE22 when enquiring about booking.

Hebrides Cruising aboard Fleur de Lys

Fans of Outlander will need no introduction to Skye, the largest of the Inner Hebrides and one of Scotland’s real tourist honeypots.

Skye can get very busy in summer, but here Fleur de Lys excels as they can take you deep into Loch Scavaig, where a rugged path leads up to the otherworldly scenery of the Cuillin and a life-affirming hike around Loch Coruisk.

No road comes remotely close.

With so few passengers there is real flexibility, weather permitting of course. On the always-open bridge I chat to the skipper about our plans.

We agree to focus less on Skye as I already know it well, and more on the quartet of Small Isles, which are rarely visited.

Deliciously Beautiful Rum in the distance. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

This proves a good choice as on the first day we manage to tender ashore on hulking Rum, by far the largest. It’s an island with a torrid history as its people were cleared off the land during the Highland Clearances.

In their place came the outlandish Bullough family from England who in the late 19th century fashioned the ridiculously lavish Kinloch Castle. Though now neglected and looking for a new buyer, at the time, this incongruous concoction cost a fortune to build and peering in you can still see many of the bizarre décor touches like a pair of sumo wrestler statues and a Steiner piano bedecked in big cat fur.

Cruising On to Eigg

The next day we move on to Eigg, whose story is much more positive.

The Eigg coastline. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

In 1997 Eigg’s community recovered from its own trouble with landowners to engineer a community buy-out. It’s been a massive success with the population established at well over 100 inhabitants.

Eigg Locals! * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Young families have come to Eigg and bright new businesses like Eigg Adventures.

I talk to owner Owain, who loves life on Eigg: “It’s a brilliant island to live on and there is a real buzz about our future. And it’s a future that we very much plan out together.”

Owner Owain of Eigg Adventures. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

The success of Eigg has been dramatic.

In 2008 it became the first island in the world to generate all of its own electricity from green sources. A new brewery is being built from crowdfunding too and a slick new community and cultural hub, An Laimhrig.

A special time to be here would be on June 12, 2022, when the community centre is set to open on the 25th anniversary of that fateful buy-out.

Coming to shore in Eigg, with a local ferry at the docks. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Below is a video of Robin’s arrival in Eigg aboard the Fleur de Lys, with some background about the community buyout too.

RELATED: Don’t know what the “buy-out” movement is all about? Here’s a useful article about the “reform of unhealthy land ownership in Scotland.”

Canna is the Next Hebrides Port

We strive on to Canna now. This gorgeous wee island is owned by the National Trust for Scotland and run as a working farm.

Beautiful Canna. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

In 2021 they announced that they were going to give the community greater say in Canna’s future, with a nod to the success on Eigg.

I find it’s a glorious isle to ramble around. I stroll around the bay to the only café.

The waiter tells me if I order lobster he’ll row out in to the bay to fetch it live from the creel. I push on up a wee hill accompanied by a massive sea eagle — in Scotland we nickname them ‘flying barn doors’ and they look like it.

Hello Tiny Muck

Last and smallest by far is tiny Muck — it’s just 2.5 miles (4 km) east to west. This working farm is fertile and less wild in feel. Less inhabited too. I ramble around and find a wee café where I chat to some of the islanders.

They don’t get many visitors to Muck so I’m treated like a novelty, rather than the other way around. Then I yomp off up to the ‘highest’ point.

Beinn Airein is only 137m, but it offers a great view back to the other Small isles and south to Coll and Tiree. It’s a reminder that Scotland boasts over 800 islands.

Beinn Airein. * Photo: © Becky Williamson and licensed for reuse under this Licence

A Stop at the Other-Worldly Knoydart

As the weather turns, skipper Gray seeks shelter and we retreat to Knoydart to literally harbour between heaven and hell.

This wild and wildly beautiful — but seriously remote peninsula — clings on to life sandwiched between the lochs of Hourn (hell) and Nevis (heaven).

Fleur de Lys approaching Knoydart. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

It may be on the mainland, but with no roads or rail in it feels like another island.

Like Eigg, a large swathe of Knoydart is now owned by the community. Their progress has been impressive here too with massive tree replanting, green energy generation and a growing population.

(Below, Robin narrates the sail into stunning Knoydart.)

In the only village of Inverie all the talk is of the Old Forge, the UK mainland’s most remote pub — which the community are in the process of buying.

I relax in the ‘sitooterie’ (colloquial Scottish for gazebo!) they’ve built outside with a local beer and we agree I’ll be back when they conclude the deal.

Stunning Knoydart. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

The Last Supper aboard Fleur de Lys

Knoydart marks our last night, with dinner (always accompanied by the skipper) continuing on the same high note as the rest of our meals.

We tuck into three types of Scottish smoked salmon, then on to hearty Chicken Balmoral (haggis stuffed chicken with a whisky sauce) and finish with a deconstructed Sicilian lemon cheesecake.

Dining on board Fleur de Lys. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Wines are included. Cheers! * Photo: Robin McKelvie

It’s not too fancy, but delicious, as are the included wines, and the wee dram of whisky I enjoy outside searching for shooting stars — the skies are seriously dark in this corner of the planet.

Cruising Back to Mallaig

Sailing back to Mallaig I catch sight of a distant minke whale.

The wildlife has been excellent on this short cruise.

As well as porpoises, and both common and bottlenose dolphins, we spot numerous seals.

Spotting seals & other wildlife along the way. * Photo: Skye and the Isles Cruises

Then they are those sea eagles, plus otters working along the shore on Rum and in Knoydart.

Red deer too — the UK’s largest land mammal — and Highland Cows. The latter not wild, of course, though still cute with their shaggy hair and horns.

I’ve not missed the Sound of Mull one bit and have discovered a week’s worth of the Hebrides in just five nights.

A handsome highland cow. * Photo: Pixabay @Fotshot

Quick Facts for Planning a Fleur de Lys Cruise

Itineraries/Fares

Skye and the Isles Cruises’ Fleur de Lys offers five-night Hebrides cruises from Mallaig, leaving on Saturdays, from spring through to autumn.

Per person GDP£1,500, all inclusive.

Fleur de Lys is also available for private charter.

SAVE: QuirkyCruisers can SAVE £500 per charter if they use code QuirkySKYE22 when enquiring about booking.

Scottish cruising on Fleur de Lys. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Getting There

These days there are a number of direct flights from North America to Scotland. Depending on your airline, many flights connect through London.

You can choose to arrive in the Scottish capital of Edinburgh or Glasgow. Trains run from Glasgow to Mallaig, via Fort William.

Scottish Cruising Tips

Take a copy of Hamish Haswell-Smith’s “Scottish Islands.”

This sailor compiled the most comprehensive and useful guide to the isles before he died in 2020. It’s a fascinating read and the perfect cruising companion for the Hebrides.

Weather

Scotland is this green with a reason as it can rain whenever you visit. The cruising season runs from spring through to autumn.

May and September are good choices as they tend to be drier and there is less chance of having to contend with the baleful midge, a harmless but annoying small insect ashore.

August is the warmest month but can also be wet.

The always moody weather of the Hebrides. * Photo: Robin McKelvie

Money Matters 

The British Pound is the official currency, with Scottish banks printing their own notes that are legal tender throughout the UK. Credit cards and cash widely accepted.

For more information on cruising aboard Fleur de Lys check out www.skyeandtheislescruises.com.

RELATED: We invite you to read more of Robin’s reviews about Hebrides cruises and other small-ship Scottish cruises, in “7 Scottish Cruises you Should Know About.”

Robin in Knoydart. * Photo: Robin’s friend

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