Pacific Northwest Cruising on American Empress
By John Roberts
It’s not quite a Christmas Markets cruise in the European style, but you can enjoy a river cruise in December just ahead of the holiday season while savoring a large slice of Americana.
That’s just what we did aboard American Empress during a voyage on the Columbia River through Washington and Oregon during the first week in December (2021).
I traveled with my friend Matt, and we joined about 140-plus other cruisers on a scenic sailing in brisk conditions through days short on daylight.
The 223-pax American Empress docked in Stevenson. * Photo: John Roberts
American Empress is the largest riverboat sailing cruises west of the Mississippi, with a maximum capacity of 223 passengers. And American Queen Voyages curates a special trip for travelers who want to immerse themselves in the history and places of the famed Lewis and Clark expedition, as well as the gorgeous scenery and charming towns.
VIDEO: Enjoy John’s quick look at Pacific Northwest Cruising on American Empress, below.
RELATED: Read another QuirkyCruise review of the American Empress riverboat by Anne Kalosh.
Admittedly, sailing in early December in the Pacific Northwest means that you are likely to be a bit more limited by short days and some cranky weather. There are of course pros and cons of sailing in the off season.
On the plus side, off-season cruising means you can enjoy the region’s beautiful landscapes and without the crowds. And fares also tend to be lower.
An off-season cruise has its pros & cons. Here John & Matt enjoy the waning afternoon light. * Photo: John Roberts
This end-of-season five-night cruise was roundtrip from Portland. We started with an overnight stay in the city and a day of touring before heading to the boat, which was berthed across the Columbia River.
I love this part of the country because it has a unique history and interesting landscapes.
The legendary Lewis and Clark expedition ended in this region near Astoria, so these sailings come sprinkled with plenty of stories about those adventures.
Plus, the Oregon coast, Cascade Mountains and Willamette Valley offer a scenic backdrop for sailing as well as offering a beautiful wilderness to explore.
American Empress sails on both the Columbia and Snake Rivers, but our trip would be on the Columbia only, with visits to Stevenson, Washington, and The Dalles and Astoria, Oregon, with one day mixed in for scenic sailing.
The excursions along the way
American Queen Voyages’ private fleet of deluxe buses met us at every port to offer casual hop-on hop-off tours with minimal guiding and narration (included in the rates).
In each port, there is also a “premium” optional guided excursion you can buy, such as a tour to the Multnomah Falls in Stevenson ($69 pp) and a Lewis & Clark themed history tour ($59) in Astoria.
Of course you are also free to roam around on your own, to hit one of the region’s many excellent brew pubs for instance, on foot or on one of the bicycles carried aboard.
One of the hop-on hop-off buses used in each port. * Photo: John Roberts
Because it was the first week of December with sunlight only from approximately 7:30 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., I was happy to have a scenic sailing day on the itinerary.
Otherwise, unfortunately, we essentially were only sailing when it was dark on the other days.
At least half the fun of sailing with American Queen Voyages on American Empress and the line’s other riverboats is getting to enjoy the scenery as you sail along the rivers — we call them “arm-chair traveler” excursions! — soaking up the vistas at every gentle bend in the waterway.
Enjoying the scenic sailing along the way. * Photo: John Roberts
How John keeps his fitness routine intact while cruising
On every trip that I take (most of them cruises), I always ensure that I can find a way to enjoy some active time, whether working out daily or getting ashore for a nice hike, bike ride or a jog around a new destination.
I’ll admit that some cruises make working out easier than others, and we had to get creative on American Empress.
This riverboat has no fitness center or work-out equipment whatsoever, and the itinerary and weather presented challenges.
However, I still was able to get in a daily workout and add some fitness-focused activities during the sailing.
John’s “Paddlewheel Lounge” workout. * Photo: John Roberts
Here are my tips and tricks to stay active on American Empress while sailing on the Columbia and Snake rivers.
GO ON A HIKE: American Queen Voyages offers premium shore excursion experiences in each port (for extra fee, in addition to the free standard excursions), and at Stevenson, Washington, we went on the tour that included a stop at Multnomah Falls. Many visitors just take the walk up to the viewing platform that gives a great view of the beautiful 611-foot-tall waterfalls system.
However, there are a series of trails that take you all the way up above the falls. You can take the 2.5-mile roundtrip hike for a special view from high above the Columbia River.
The region is loaded with great outdoor spaces, often close to town.
So, look for opportunities to do a short day hike during your free time as the boat is docked during your visit.
While others are shopping, you can seek out something a bit more energetic. Ask your shore excursion manager for the best hikes near town.
RIDE A BIKE: American Empress carries a fleet of bikes, and you can sign them out for a ride along the pathways that you will find near the rivers in each port stop. This is a fantastic way to explore the destinations while getting in some great exercise.
DO A DAILY WORKOUT: No, there is not gym onboard, but that’s no excuse. I did a simple daily workout in The Paddlewheel Lounge on the dance floor! There was almost no one around each morning as I did my pushups, stretches, jumping jacks, bodyweight squats and sit-ups.
I was happy to find a space where I didn’t disrupt anyone, yet could stay indoors during the chilly mornings in December. Outside on Deck 4 at the aft just overlooking the pretty red paddlewheel, is also an ideal space for exercise during warmer times of the season.
And I also recommend packing some exercise bands and a jump rope. These don’t take up much space in your luggage and are fabulous ways to bring your gym with you when you sail on this boat.
GO FOR A RUN: The same paths that you use for a bike ride are also ideal for avid walkers and joggers. You also can freelance a run through the towns and cities that you visit. Portland and Astoria, especially are nice places to run, with the river always within sight on some routes and plenty of access to attractions along the way to visit during your run or long walks.
TRAVEL DURING HIGH SEASON: The best season to travel for adventurous types would be during warmer months and on American Empress itineraries that include both the Snake and Columbia rivers. During these voyages, you have a wider menu of active shore excursions, including more chances to hike, bike, kayak the Columbia River, go whitewater rafting on the Deschutes River and on a powerboat exploration into the stunningly beautiful Hells Canyon National Recreation Area (the deepest river gorge in the U.S.) on the Snake River.
Pacific Northwest cruising on American Empress is a convenient way to go
While our route and pre-winter weather conditions in the Pacific Northwest kept things a little more history and culture-focused (vs sporty-focused), we still had a pleasant time exploring and meeting new friends also thankful to be able to travel safely.
I met Karen, who was traveling on her first American Queen Voyages cruise, along with husband Vic. The Alameda, California, couple said they wanted a close-to-home, low-hassle option to dip back into travel, and the trip on American Empress was a great choice.
Karen said the couple has been itching to travel again for almost two years since the pandemic shut down the world, and this voyage was the first on their schedule, with a journey on the Rhine River with Crystal Cruises and a Panama Canal cruise with Seabourn also on their calendar.
This was a fully vaccinated cruise with pre-cruise COVID testing and passengers wearing masks onboard when moving around the riverboat.
The Columbia River itinerary. * Photo: American Queen Voyages
Pacific Northwest cruising on American Empress — The Itinerary
Day 1: Overnight stay at the hotel in Portland, Washington
Day 2: Embark American Empress and sail to Stevenson, Washington
Day 3: Stevenson
Day 4: The Dalles, Oregon
Day 5: River cruising on the Columbia River
Day 6: Astoria, Oregon
Day 7: Disembark in Portland
On John’s cruise, the long “stage” gangway at the bow wasn’t used; its use depends on the set-up of the ports’ docks. * Photo: John Roberts
In Portland before the cruise …
The pre-cruise hotel stay is an important part of the protocols for these sailings. You check in and take a COVID antigen test shortly after arrival to the hotel, with a negative test required before you can board the ship the next day.
You have free time in Portland on the day of your arrival and up until you board the shuttle for the transfer to the boat the next day.
Passengers also can choose to purchase a city tour of Portland.
Matt and I enjoyed the city tour, which took us to attractions like the Lan Su Chinese Garden in the heart of the city, as well as places like the International Rose Test Garden and the Portland Art Museum.
Portland’s Lan Su Chinese Garden. * Photo: John Roberts
The highlight of the tour for me, though, was the box of Voodoo Doughnuts that our guide cracked open to reveal some sweet treats for the group at the end of the day!
The famous Voodoo doughnuts. * Photo: John Roberts
Voodoo Donuts. * Photo: https://www.voodoodoughnut.com/doughnuts/
Aboard American Empress …
The riverboat has four public decks, with two restaurants, a Show Theater and the Paddlewheel Lounge.
The Paddlewheel Lounge is the main gathering space, with people enjoying the open bar, views of the red paddlewheel churning and nightly piano music sessions from our lounge entertainer Bob Finnie.
Bob Finnie tickles the ivories in the Paddlewheel Lounge. * Photo: John Roberts
Cruisers also gather here for quiet time reading or working on puzzles throughout the day. We also settled in to watch some NFL games on the big screen TV and took part in trivia contests.
A small library and public computers are also located here.
Having a few at the Paddlewheel Bar. * Photo: John Roberts
The Show Lounge offers a large dance floor, stage and bar. This space is used for nightly “Showtime” productions from the lounge entertainer and the Empress Quartet musicians.
The Show Lounge. * Photo: John Roberts
On our sailing, our riverlorian Laurence Cotton also gave enrichment presentations.
We particularly enjoyed Laurence’s talk about Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery, outlining some of the challenges and other key characters in the historic expedition.
The Empress Quartet is a band made up of our cruise director Marcus Harbaugh, who plays piano, alongside a bass player, drummer and saxophonist.
The Astoria Dining Room is the ornate main restaurant down on Deck 2, and the venue features chandeliers and large windows at the waterline so you can enjoy the views while eating breakfast, lunch or dinner.
The fancy main dining room on American Empress. * Photo: John Roberts
The River Grill offers a buffet-style informal restaurant setting on Deck 4 with an attached patio area great for eating outdoors in pleasant weather.
The casual River Grill has outdoor seating. * Photo: American Queen Voyages / www.AQVoyages.com
Follow me on a tour of the outdoor decks of American Empress, below.
My cabin on American Empress, #204
My balcony stateroom was comfortable and outfitted with a Victorian feel — rich dark-wood furniture, glossy wallpaper and gold-framed mirrors and paintings.
The ship theme and décor, as a whole, helps transport cruisers back in time to the heyday of steamship travel.
Our small cabin balcony was a great place to step out each day to get a breath of fresh air, gauge the weather conditions and glimpse a bit of scenery as we sailed.
John’s Deluxe Veranda cabin, #204. * Photo: John Roberts
Here’s a video tour of my cabin, below, follow me ….
In Stevenson …
We woke to a chilly morning in our first port stop, Stevenson, which is a small river town on the Washington side of the river.
The American Empress in Stevenson. * Photo: American Empress
The hop-on, hop off bus route includes stops at the Columbia Gorge Interpretive Center, Bonneville Dam and downtown (which is a very short walk from where the ship docks).
The interpretive center and Bonneville Dam stops give visitors a look at the geology of the river and the technology that goes into a massive power plant.
Visitors will be fascinated with the fish ladders that help to minimize the impact of the ecology and wildlife.
Matt and I picked the premium excursion in the morning, which gave us a chance to head across the Bridge of the Gods to Multnomah Falls on the Oregon side of the Columbia.
Our Multnomah Falls hike. * Photo: John Roberts
Here, we did our hiking and exploration before returning to the boat for lunch and an afternoon wander through town that ended with a few beers at the nearby Walking Man Brewery and Clark & Lewie’s restaurant, right on the banks of the river.
John & the gang at Walking Man Brewing in Stevenson. * Photo: John Roberts
Dinner in the Astoria Dining Room onboard included split pea and ham soup, pan seared scallops and beef short rib braised in red wine.
Bob Finnie entertained passengers in the Paddlewheel Lounge with his all-America tribute “This Is My Country” piano performance.
In The Dalles …
We opt for the hop-on, hop-off shuttle bus to explore this town of about 13,600 that serves as a gateway to the Columbia Gorge National Scenic Area. We chose to hop off at the Original Courthouse Museum for a look around the historical mid-19th-century Wasco County courthouse that served a massive area that reached from the Cascades to the Rockies. It hosted public meetings, served as the criminal court setting and had three jail cells.
From there, we jump off at the National Neon Sign Museum. This was highly recommended, and is a cool place featuring vintage business signs of all shapes and sizes that use neon gas for illumination.
It was fun to wander from room to room, and even recall some of the companies and logos on display.
The Neon Sign Museum was an enlightening place to visit. * Photo: John Roberts
After that, we ditched the bus and explored The Dalles on foot to grab a lunch and find a bar for a few more of the famed regional craft beers.
It was a Saturday, so we also wanted to be sure to be able to catch the college football games while settling in among the residents enjoying their weekend.
Matt and I grabbed burgers and beers at The Last Stop Saloon based on the recommendation of David Benko, the executive director of the National Neon Sign Museum. After lunch, we took a nice wander through town, noting the large and intricate murals on the side of historical buildings that tell the story of the region.
We set our sights on Zim’s Brau Haus for a couple more craft beers, and we settled in at the bar and enjoyed the friendly service and multitude of games on the TVs.
We tried the River Grill for dinner back on American Empress. The casual eatery allows you to have a meal at a faster pace and always includes lobster and prime rib on the menu.
Prime rib & lobster always on the menu. * Photo: John Roberts
The riverboat tends to get quiet at night, with many of the cruisers heading off to bed after dinner; most passengers were north of 70.
For those who stayed up, entertainment included a performance in the Show Lounge from the Empress Quartet and Bob Finnie offering up piano tunes in the Paddlewheel Lounge.
We had settled into a nice “rhythm” with this river cruise.
The Empress Quartet in action. * Photo: John Roberts
A Day on the River — Pacific Northwest Cruising on American Empress
When Sunday came, it was a day to sleep in before waking up for a quick workout. I used the space in the Paddlewheel Lounge to exercise. Many people were relaxing with books and otherwise enjoying their time on Empress with puzzles or some knitting and conversation.
We were sailing from The Dalles toward Astoria, and the route delivered wonderful sights. The skies were clear enough that we could see Mount Hood, as well as several other mountain peaks as we followed the gentle flow of the Columbia River.
Sailing by Mt. Hood. * Photo: John Roberts
Riverlorian Laurence offered an informative and fun talk in the Show Lounge on the “Lewis and Clark and the Corps of Discovery” about the team’s challenging voyage up the rivers to the Pacific Northwest from 1803 to 1806.
Laurence lecturing in the Show Lounge. * Photo: John Roberts
We also played a fun “Match Game” contest, put on by the Empress Quartet in the Show Lounge.
Later, as we approached the Cascade Locks, cruisers wandered the outside decks to watch the captain and crew navigate the narrow channel and lock system.
The Cascade Locks. * Photo: John Roberts
Laurence gave narration explaining the history of the river and the lock system.
Laurence narrating. * Photo: John Roberts
All in all, it was a relaxing day, and Matt and I joined a few others after dinner in viewing the Bills-Patriots NFL game in the Paddlewheel Lounge to cap the evening.
John & pals chilling in casual “feels like home” Paddlewheel Lounge watching some NFL. * Photo: John Roberts
In Astoria …
It’s a rainy, cold and foggy day in Astoria, blowing up my plans to enjoy a bike ride or run along the Riverwalk. (This is a fun way to explore the gorgeous waterfront.)
Oh, well. Welcome to off-season Pacific Northwest cruising.
American Empress in Astoria. * Photo: John Roberts
If the weather had been better, we would have made use of the free bikes carried on board. * Photo: John Roberts
We bundle up, instead, and make the most of our time at this historic town named for turn-of-the-century business tycoon John Jacob Astor and located at the mouth of the Columbia River near the Pacific Ocean.
Laurence offers more enrichment talks, as well as guiding a walk through town that ends at the Flavel House.
The hop-on hop-off bus visits Flavel House, Carriage House, the Astoria Riverwalk and downtown shopping area, as well as the famed Astoria Column. The 125-foot-tall column sits in a city park on Coxcomb Hill and offers great views over the Columbia River — on a clear day. It was far too foggy during our visit to see anything from there.
All of the bus stops on the hop-on hop-off circuit are easily walkable in case you want to wander on your own to visit Astoria. This is a great way to go, especially when the when the weather is good.
Matt and I decided to brave the conditions and head out for a little souvenir shopping and also with the goal of visiting a couple landmark craft brew spots in town, Astoria Brewing Company and Buoy Beer.
The city offers several others, too, making Astoria quite the hot spot for beer fanatics.
We make our way toward Buoy Beer Co. first, because it’s located right along the waterfront, and I like to watch the sea lions that make the docks their home.
Brews at the Buoy Beer Co. * Photo: John Roberts
After a couple beers there, we headed over to Astoria Brewing Company and try a couple more, accompanied with a nice bowl of seafood chowder and some oysters to warm us up and keep us satisfied until dinner back on Empress.
Beers at Astoria Brewing. * Photo: John Roberts
There was one last night on the boat, with a nice dinner. The menu offered a delicious surf and turf, scallops and a well-seasoned salmon dish.
Salmon served in the main restaurant. * Photo: John Roberts
Overall, meals onboard offered a nice variety, with, for instance, mostly comfort foods at lunch (admittedly not always the lightest options for healthy eaters) – like chicken parmesan meatballs, bacon-wrapped Chicago-style hot dogs, and barbecue chicken and cornbread.
Lunch on board. * Photo: John Roberts
Convenient cruising for locals
The short, close-to-home cruise was just what many of our fellow travelers had been looking for — a fun and engaging way to close out the year with a positive feeling about travel in the coming year.
I spoke with David Porter, who along with his wife, Carol (of the Roaming Boomers), had traveled from Scottsdale, Arizona, to take a river cruise on American Empress.
He said this type of cruising is perfect option for aging travelers who don’t necessarily want to get on long flights to Europe any more.
“I really like the hop-on, hop-off program they have, and the riverlorians are something you don’t get in Europe.”
Pacific Northwest Cruising on American Empress —Booking & Fare Info
Fares include:
- one-night pre-cruise hotel stay with free ground transfers
- unlimited shore excursions in port
- American Queen Voyages’ own deluxe buses follow the riverboat along the way to provide passengers free “Hop-On Hop-Off” tours at each port (optional “premium” tours, like the excursion to the Multnomah Falls, were extra, ranging from $59 to $79 pp on John’s cruise)
- unlimited beverages including an extensive wine list, spirits, local craft beers & specialty coffees
- smoothie & juice bar open every morning
- all meals including alternative dining featuring lobster & USDA prime beef available every night
- 24-hour in-room dining
- unlimited WiFi
- bicycles & hiking sticks
- live, daily entertainment & enrichment
For more info, on Pacific Northwest Cruising on American Empress, visit American Queen Voyages.
RELATED: And for a useful VIDEO overview of this cruise, here’s John’s full video tour below.
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HEIDI SARNA
