Atlas Antarctica Cruise Review (2026): At Last, On A Real Expedition Ship, the World Navigator

Atlas Antarctica Cruise Review (2026)

By Peter Knego

Caption (for above): The author getting photobombed by indifferent gentoo penguins at Barrientos Island. * Photo: Mike Masino

In 2007, I cruised Antarctica with the often lamented Voyages of Discovery, a U.K.-based company that specialized in expedition style cruising. Their ship, the MV Discovery, was the former Island Princess, which was one of the two “Love Boats” featured on the celebrated TV series.

That cruise was a superb introduction to the splendors of the seventh continent and included a pre-stay in Buenos Aires and a post-Antarctica cruise up the western coast of South America to Chile. The Discovery could carry 800 passengers but to comply with regulations, her capacity was limited to 400, while only 50 passengers at a time were allowed to go ashore.

This, of course, meant that not everyone could participate in all that was offered. But even with the limitations, the trip was a revelation and I thought at the time, enough to sate me for the remainder of my time on this remarkable planet.

That is, until a chance to revisit Antarctica with Atlas Ocean Voyages presented itself last year. On the one hand, I’m not a fan of extended air travel and getting to Antarctica is a long haul from sunny Southern California, especially having already done it before.

And yet, on the other hand, there was a chance to savor those icy splendors on a real expedition vessel with Atlas, a company I love for their intimate, well-designed ships and excellent food and service.

Well, spoiler alert, the other hand won.

What’s New, Buenos Aires?

Atlas provides an overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel, which is in the heart of Buenos Aires historic district, within walking distance of most of the key attractions, like the Casa Rosada presidential palace.

To help cushion the rigors of such a long journey, we booked a couple of extra nights at the Intercontinental and did some exploring. We walked to La Recoleta Cemetery (where Eva Peron is buried), took a tour (in Portuguese since the English tours were booked) of the Teatro Colon opera house, spent an afternoon in the excellent National Museum of Fine Arts and even did a full day trip on an excursion boat to the village of Tigre, which is on the Parana Delta, just outside of Buenos Aires.

The charter flight to Ushuaia left at a rather brutal 6:00 AM, requiring us to eat a quick breakfast at 3:30 AM and then hop on Atlas’ coach to the airport. For me, this was the hardest part of the trip, since every seat on the three-and-a-half-hour flight was filled and the plane was more cramped than I was prepared for.

Even though this leg of the journey is included, for those like me who have claustrophobia, it might be worth considering flying directly to Ushuaia on an airline where you can get assigned seats in advance. On the plus side, Atlas did provide a nice amenities kit with eye shades, a toothbrush and other sundries, as well as a boxed lunch.

VIDEO: Below is my full video tour of our Atlas expedition in Antartica.

Benign Beagle Beginnings

Our December 1 sailing date was actually rather early in the Antarctica cruise season. Due to its increasing popularity, the season has expanded in recent years from a few weeks in January and February to these days, from late November through the end of March.

In Ushuaia, our luggage was sent directly to the ship while we boarded buses for an afternoon tour of Tierra del Fuego, the southernmost national park in the world. We were told that the region was ravaged by 100 MPH winds the week prior, so we savored the glorious weather we had that day.

Our tour took us from Mirador Pataya, at the tip of the intercontinental highway, to another vista where the now closed southernmost post office is located and to a visitors’ center, before delivering us to a nice French restaurant overlooking Ushuaia for an included, late lunch.

Sheltered from the high seas by the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia has long been a strategic “port in a storm” for vessels making their way around Cape Horn at the tip of South America and in recent years, it has become the hub for those crossing the notorious Drake Passage on cruises to Antarctica.

After days of flying and touring, I felt a combination of joy and relief when our bus pulled up to the World Navigator World Navigator, which was tied up in a cluster of interesting expedition ships at Ushuaia’s cruise terminal.

Intimate, Upscale & Designed For Expedition Style Cruising

This was actually my third sailing with Atlas and my second on the World Navigator. My prior cruises had been in the balmy Mediterranean, where the use of zodiacs, kayaks and the other expedition gear is not offered, so this would be an entirely new way to experience the ship, which, along with her two sister ships, the World Traveller and World Voyager, ranks among my personal favorites.

A Tour Of The World Navigator

Aside from their human scale at 9,934 gross tons with a capacity for only 196 passengers, these ships are beautifully laid out with six decks.

Deck 8

Beginning at the top, Deck 8 has a running track (12 times around equals a mile) with intermittent workout stations overlooking the wading pool and Jacuzzis on midships Deck 7.

Deck 7

Down on Deck 7, there’s an open observation platform overlooking the bow, the gorgeous Dome observation lounge with its own bar, compass rose marble dance floor and a domed skylight. Aft of the pool, there is an al fresco bar called 7Aft, which was not used on our sailing but in warm waters is a round the clock bar and in the evenings, it doubles as an alternate dining venue. The aft portion of Deck 7 is where all of the expedition “toys” like zodiacs, kayaks and other gear are stowed.

Decks 6 & 5

These decks are dedicated to suites and staterooms and have sheltered stern terraces with deck chairs overlooking the wake. On forward Deck 5, there is an open terrace called The Water’s Edge that was especially popular during our cruise when entering scenic areas like Lemaire Channel or in settings where there was interesting marine life.

Deck 4

Meanwhile, Deck 4 is all about public rooms, which include the Vasco da Gama Auditorium (where daily recaps and enrichment lectures were held), the Atlas Lounge (a handsome space with Art Deco-inspired decor and a very popular bar), the reception lobby, medical center, Paula’s Pantry (a casual and very handy coffee and snack bar), the L’Occitane SeaSpa and Sauna (with a lovely relaxation area, sauna overlooking the sea and two treatment rooms), the Fitness Studio and the indoor/outdoor Porto Restaurant, which on our cruise was only indoor.

Deck 3

Finally, getting to Deck 3, you'll find a bloc of staterooms, including ours, and the Mud Room, which is where guests don their expedition gear (life vests, parkas, boots, etc.) and board zodiacs.

We Had The Cheapest Cabin & Still Loved It….With Caveats

Our home for that 10-night cruise was Cabin 305 on the starboard side of Deck 3, a 183-square foot Adventure Oceanview with a large picture window. We were the only guests on Deck 3, which was fine, except we missed out on the special party held early in the cruise where guests meet up with their neighbors over canapés and champagne in the passage outside their cabins. This get-together is Atlas’ nice way for people to break the ice and get to know their fellow voyagers, so it’s a good thing Mike and I (being alone on Deck 3) both get along. Most of the time, anyway.

Since Deck 3 is near water level, our lovely picture window was covered in a metal casing called a deadlight. This was for our safety and that of the ship in the event of a rough Drake crossing or a rogue wave.

In December of 2022, a passenger on board Viking Polaris perished when a huge wave struck the ship and shattered her window, so it’s better to be safe than sorry. The deadlight did make our stateroom feel a bit dungeon-esque for those first and last two days but we were able to remove it and enjoy the views once we had completed the open seas crossings.

As far as style is concerned, I love the dark, wood-like veneers of the Atlas ships and the jewel toned color schemes of the soft fittings.  For an expedition cruise, we both thought that the one full length closet was not enough for the clothes and gear we did not store in the Mud Room and there were only two small drawers for tee shirts, polos, socks, underwear, etc.

Also, the handles on the closets were very hard to get a hold of, making it a challenge to open them without some jiggering. These are all small matters that will hopefully be addressed in a future refit but in the meantime, some strategically placed coat hooks could help with the storage limitations.

On the plus side, it was nice that we could stow our luggage under the beds and there were plenty of outlets with two USB ports, an American and three European plugs. With i-Phones, GoPros, i-Pads and a computer, our needs were met.

LEARN MORE: Learn the ins and outs of what adapters, chargers and/or converters to bring on your next cruise.

Basic Wi-Fi for e-mails is included in the fare, but I opted for the Social Media plan, which was available for an extra fee (offered on a varying scale for data use and time). It was also nice to have an included stocked minibar and an ensuite Nespresso coffee maker, a selection of pods and high quality Kusmi teas to go with it.

The bathroom was well laid out and had a nightlight setting, which was especially nice with the small step up. The shower was large, with a choice of rainforest, hand held and massage jets and Atlas provides excellent L’Occitane amenities (soap, shampoo, conditioner, body lotion). Aside from my minor quips, for the most basic accommodations on the ship, it was quite inviting.

VIDEO: Below is a video tour of our cabin, #305.

The Navigator has six overall cabin categories that include:

• 270-square-foot Verandas
• 300-square-foot Horizon or Veranda Deluxes
• 382-square foot Journey Suites
• 445-square-foot Discovery Suites
• 465-square-foot Navigator Suites

You can see most of them in a top-to-bottom tour I created during the ship’s maiden cruise season in the Mediterranean.

VIDEO: Here’s my full “Decked! Top To Bottom Tour” of World Navigator

 

Bubbly Welcome

We were welcomed on board in small groups and led to the Atlas Lounge, where a glass of champagne and canapés were provided as the staff sorted out our documents and handed us our cabin key cards.

As soon as all were on board, the World Navigator cast her lines and began her departure. We were called to muster with our lifejackets in the reception area, where a comprehensive drill was held, followed by an introduction of the 21-member expedition staff in the Auditorium.

After that, there was a little time to unpack and enjoy the passing scenery of the Beagle Channel and a very slow and late sunset from the Dome. Or for those who didn’t mind the chill, out on deck.

I have terrible sea legs and was fully prepared to spend the next two days splayed out in our cabin, doped up on meclizine, as we crossed the dreaded Drake. However, the captain announced that there was an excellent forecast for the next day, with the caveat that things could quickly change, as there were storms encroaching from either side.

Our first dinner in the restaurant was set up buffet style to enable us to get in and out quickly and settle in for the night. In typical Atlas style, the buffet had an impressive seafood counter, numerous salads and fresh vegetables, turkey and other warm entrees and some lovely included wines. Even in buffet mode, it was by far the best dinner we had enjoyed since leaving home and, of course, this was just the start.

In the Dome, the Brazilian duo Fablux (Fabrizio on acoustic guitar and Luciana on vocals), reinterpreted various pop classics with a soothing Jobim/Astrid Giberto-flair. The cruise director, Daniel Turner, would also headline a few nights in the Dome.

Normally, I sit near the door when I hear the CD is going to sing but I have to say, he had a superb voice and dulcetly covered a wide gamut of territory from Frank Sinatra to 80s’ pop bands like Erasure and A-ha.

Fine Dining, Atlas Style

The next morning, I was delighted to find the captain’s projections were spot on.The sun was shining and the Drake “Lake” (versus “Shake”) was very welcoming, although it was a bit chilly outside with temps in the upper 30s.

We partook of the breakfast buffet in the restaurant and marveled at the scope and variety of the offerings. There is literally a barrel of fresh creamery butter and an omelet station where one can also get a slice of Iberico ham or other cured meats. There was miso soup and congee as well as other Asian selections, since we had a group of 30 or so Chinese passengers on our sailing.

The spread included a variety of cereals, excellent pastries and breads, a machine that grinds out a fresh version of something like Nutella (a mixture of chocolate and varied nuts), numerous juices and smoothies, eggs, a variety of bacons, cheeses, nuts, seeds and yes, dried mealworms. On the latter, I was definitely a non-taker but I’m fascinated that they were there, perhaps because they are considered a source of protein and a food for the future?

There were also offerings of smoked salmon with all the accoutrements (capers, onions, etc.), a honey comb with a dipper, muesli and yogurt, although I was disappointed that the wonderful French yogurts we had on our Mediterranean cruises weren’t supplied. Otherwise, anything you can think of for breakfast has been accounted for with Atlas, along with a few other things you hadn’t imagined.

Lunch is also offered up buffet style, with freshly carved meats, a salad bar with a wide assortment of ingredients and a choice of already made salads, which could vary from Caesar to Nicoise, Greek and other varieties.

There were two soups, with all sorts of condiments to dress them up with, sea food courses, rice, cooked veggies (with Indian selections) and more. The hardest choice was what not to eat in order to save some room for the daily ice creams, which were delicious, made on board, and accompanied with all sorts of toppings and sauces.

In addition to all of this, there are daily lunch (and for that matter, breakfast) specials, which are served by the wait staff.

And, while we’re on food, let’s talk about dinner. Since the outside seating cannot be used on these cold voyages, the interior portion of the restaurant fills up quickly. It is open seating and if you want to get a nice window seat, show up as soon as the restaurant opens.

The breads are absolutely divine and get about 60% of the blame for the extra ten pounds we each gained on this trip (no joke!). If bread isn’t good, I just don’t bother but these chewy, flaky, fresh-baked delights were simply divine and when doused in olive oil and balsamic vinegar (available upon request), nirvana.

This beautifully trained wait staff are there to make your evening special and quickly get to know you and your dietary preferences. As with most lines, Atlas asks for any special needs (gluten free, sugar free, vegan, kosher, etc.) to be requested at the time of booking.

The menu typically has a choice of cold appetizers, usually three, that might include (taken from a random menu offered during the cruise): duck breast, carrots pureed with garlic, wild mushroom and chicken skin salad.

On that same menu, there was a choice of two soups — Chinese chicken corn and potato cream and a salad (mixed greens with a daily dressing). Main courses included meats (flank steak and Chinese red braised pork belly); two vegetarian choices — a delicious Indian Thali (sort of an Indian-style tapas with breads, rice, lentils and vegetables in different sauces) and chargrilled beets prepared with olive oil and rock salt. There was also a chanterelle ravioli with mushroom foam and crushed walnuts. Seafood lovers also have an entire menu with cold appetizers, soups, and a choice of main courses.

In addition to the evolving daily menu, there is are anytime classics like Caesar salad, tomato soup, broiled Angus tenderloin, corn fed chicken, three cheese bacon mac and cheese, grilled fillet of salmon in maple glaze and plant-based steak.

Included wine choices, poured in beautiful Riedel stemware, which makes all the difference, encompassed a nice range of Argentine, French, Italian, South African and California vintages.  There are also premium wines available for an extra price.

Paula’s Pantry coffee and snack bar was our go-to on mornings where we didn’t want a full breakfast, although we could order croissants, smoothies, power shots, yogurt parfaits and enough items to add up to a full breakfast. We loved the homemade granola bars, which would get us through some of the early morning expeditions, along with a perfect cappuccino or macchiato (or something in between). There were also sandwiches, salads and lunch items, as well as cookies in the afternoon.

And every afternoon, there was tea in the Dome, with Kusmi leaves and bags and something special like bananas Foster or caramel crepes.

Once per cruise, there is an Explorer’s Table event in the Dome where the chef prepares a multi course meal with wine pairings for up to 10 guests. We did not try it but heard from colleagues that it was well worth the $179 per guest price tag.

There is also 24-hour room service available, which we frankly never got around to.

Drake Lake

That first day in the Drake was punctuated with visits to Paula’s Pantry for fresh juices and cappuccinos before and after gatherings with the expedition team who versed us on how to board zodiacs, proper penguin etiquette (never approach them) and regaled us with in depth presentations on birds and sea mammals we might see in the Drake.

For those planning to kayak ($200 per guest), they held a brief fitness test to make sure we were able to board sea kayaks from zodiacs. They also gave a preview of what the overnight camping would be like (another option priced at $750), checked our clothing for any biohazards and then had us try on those impressive yellow Atlas parkas, which we would actually get to keep. Atlas also provides boots and a PFD (life vest) for use during the cruise.

READ MORE: QuirkyCruise Contributor John Roberts shares his Antarctica tips after 4 expeditions there.

We also had a chance to visit the bridge, since the weather was calm enough to host an open wheelhouse and then we squeezed in a quick romp on the ellipticals in the fitness studio.

At one point I, was called to the reception, where I was told the staff had noticed there was a missing wheel on my suitcase — courtesy of the brutes at the unfriendly Buenos Aires Airport — and asked if I wouldn’t mind bringing the bag to them to see if they could fix it. I was blown away by this incredible courtesy, typical of the customer care provided by Atlas, and indeed, two days later, got a call letting me know my repaired bag was available to pick up.

That evening in the Atlas Lounge, Captain Felipe Sousa hosted a welcome aboard reception where the officers and staff were introduced and we were debriefed on the weather that lay ahead. Fortunately, it looked like we could still sail safely between the two encroaching storms up to the point where we would reach the shelter of the South Shetland Islands the following afternoon.

All good by me!

Land, Ho!

On our second morning in the Drake, the seas were still calm but it was overcast and a light coating of snow on deck indicated the temperature was dropping steadily. We could feel the ship’s engines slowing right about the time we spotted the snow-covered South Shetland Islands off our bow.

At Barrientos Island, a small crane at the stern began lowering the zodiacs into the sea while members of the expedition team zipped off to make sure the conditions were safe. Just as the announcements started, we grabbed a cappuccino and a homemade protein bar from Paula’s and then, after our zodiac group was called (there are four groups with a maximum of 50), headed down to the Mud Room to don our gear.

LEARN MORE: QuirkyCruise's Ted Scull tells us about the 8 roughest cruising regions in the world.

Finally, We Were Back In Antarctica!

Since I love to take photos and video, my favorite spot in a zodiac is usually at the front but that comes with a price. Even in moderate swells, it can get very bumpy and there is nothing between you and the icy wind, so you are guaranteed to get a little wet, if not fully drenched.

Also, I would advise packing more than just one pair of gloves. I remove my right glove when documenting so I can control the i-Phone cameras and during our first excursion, it managed to get blown away. The boutique on board does sell some that start at $130 a pair, so I spent most of the voyage with frozen digits.

Expedition leader Jonathan greeted our zodiac on the beach, letting us know that the trail to the left would feature gentoo penguins nesting on the rocky outcrops and to the right, there were small colonies of chinstrap penguins. Both are equally adorable and at one point on the first trail, we came across a gentoo egg that had been snatched up by a predatory skua bird that just left it to die in the snow. It is common for skuas to attack adult penguins who are keeping eggs warm, dislodge the eggs or chicks underneath them and then fly off with their new bounty.

On the chinstrap side of the island, several skuas glided above the seemingly indifferent and thoroughly enchanting penguins, waiting for their opportunity to devour an egg (thankfully it was too early in the season for chicks) and there was nothing we could or should do. And so it was, as we forged along in the icy wind, bearing witness to the natural and sometimes cruel cycle of life.

Portal To Bergs & Whales

Back on board, in the warmth and comfort of the ship, there was a tangible buzz as many of our fellow guests had just set foot on Antarctic soil for the first time. The next day would be even more exciting…

We awoke to find the Navigator at Portal Point, which is on the west coast of Graham Land, Antarctica’s long, curved peninsula. Because of its deep snow cover, there would be no land-based penguins but the approach via zodiac was quite exhilarating as our guide Fiona steered us through brash ice and around some spectacular bergs before we made our landing. Many of the formations and the intensity of the blues beneath the waterline were simply breathtaking.

Once ashore, we followed a long trail up a snowy embankment, doing our best to not slip and slide until we reached the end point on a bluff overlooking the anchorage where the Navigator was intermittently obscured by snow squalls.

After lunch, we were making a slow approach to Recess Cove, an inlet on Graham Land. Out on the Water’s Edge, you could hear the constant shrieking of Humpback whales as they surfaced, followed by the sound of them blowing.

That afternoon zodiac excursion was humbling and awe-inspiring, as Humpbacks surfaced all around us, sometimes in pairs, trios and quartets, before diving in perfect sync, to feed on krill (tiny shrimp-like creatures). At one point, two came at us like benevolent torpedoes, gliding right under our zodiac.

Unfortunately, my perpetually numb fingers failed at capturing the spectacle on my GoPro, although I did manage to document some impressive bubbles…  Regardless, our adrenalized spirits soared as we bobbed in the heart of that feeding ground, all senses inundated by these gentle giants of the sea.

I’ve enjoyed encounters with Humpbacks in Alaska and the Sea Of Cortez but nothing quite as epic as this.

On Day Five, the Navigator was positioned off the Melchior Islands for a morning zodiac expedition around an Argentine Research Base, under some dramatic ice cliffs and past yet more spectacular bergs. We then sailed a short distance to Orne Harbor, which is often described as an amphitheater lined with glaciers. When we arrived, the weather looked pretty calm but in the midst of our afternoon zodiac outing, it abruptly changed. Suddenly, diagonal sleet came hurtling at us to the point where we could barely keep our eyes open, so our guide wisely returned us to the ship.

Early that evening, off in the distance, we watched with binoculars from the warm comfort of the Dome as the campers headed out to a landing, where they literally dug in for the night. While it wasn’t for us, we would soon learn it was an experience many of our fellow guests cherished and for some, one of the reasons they booked with Atlas. (On our cruise, there were about 40 who signed up for camping, at $750.)

Transcendent Vistas Of Lemaire & Spert Island

The next morning, brilliant sunshine beamed down upon the World Navigator as she approached Lemaire Channel. On the prior cruise, ice had blocked the narrow passage, which is barely a half mile wide at one point, and from the looks of it, we might also have to keep our distance.

Nonetheless, the Navigator made a slow approach, her ice strengthened bow gently nudging aside clusters of growlers and bergy bits at the northern end of one of the world’s most spectacular waterways. On our port side, the jagged peaks of the Kyiv Peninsula loomed and to our right, Booth Island’s snow-draped cliffs were mirrored in the crystalline waters.

Over the next hour or so, as the Navigator continued her passage, heavenly vistas unfolded before us. Like something out of Fantasia, penguins skipped underneath our bow and milliseconds afterwards, you could hear the muffled rumble of small avalanches cascading down the near vertical, 3,200-foot face of the cliffs on our starboard side.

This eclipsed anything I had ever seen in Norway, Svalbard or Alaska and the day was far from over. Even with Lemaire in our wake, it was hard to pull away and head to the dining room for lunch.

That afternoon, we anchored off Pleneau Island, which is known for its elephant seals and rocky outcrops inhabited by gentoo Penguins. Equally wonderful were the views of the open sea beyond, which was like a parking lot of bergs of all shapes and size, hence its name, “Iceberg Alley.”

Fingers of fog stretched across the peaks of Booth Island across from us, adding to the drama and mystery of our surrounds. On the way back, I asked our zodiac driver, Fernando, if we could circle the ship as the lighting was perfect on the starboard side. He grinned said, “Nothing is impossible.” and buzzed us through an ice field, chunks of ice crunching beneath us, as I pointed my lenses toward the glistening Navigator.

It was pure bliss!

That entire day was one of the most magnificent I have experienced in decades of cruise travel, so my expectations were tempered as we headed off in a zodiac the next morning with tour guide Suzanne, a brilliant naturalist who also is a kayaking guide.

We put our lessons to good use, carefully climbed into our sea kayak from the zodiac and for the next hour or so, we paddled around the calm waters surrounding Hydrurga Rocks. Our uneventful but pleasant romp was capped off with a quick, exhilarating encounter with a gentoo penguin that did a dolphin-like leap out of the water in front of us. (On our cruise, there were five kayak groups of 16 each, plus some passengers were wait-listed; it was a popular excursion.)

Back on board, most of our fellow guests were donning bathrobes as they queued up to do a polar plunge off the side of the ship. We were perfectly fine not joining them, although everyone I spoke with afterwards delighted at checking off another bucket list experience.

That afternoon, we were back in zodiacs, heading towards Spert Island, which some of the naturalists described as Lemaire in miniature. Our first stop was a small cove surrounded by basalt cliffs with a huge iceberg in its center but this e-ticket ride had only just begun!

Next, we were zipping along an utterly pristine, rocky shoreline, where a gorgeous Adelie penguin stood sentry, its beak pointing us onward. We would pass beneath a row of towering blue bergs resembling swans, ghost ships and anything the imagination could conjure, and under sheer cliffs that are exposed to the ravages of the Drake Passage.

I was thinking just how lucky we were to have the conditions on our side as our zodiac guide Martin told us to hold tight and with a surge of the sea, zoomed us under a giant stone arch that looked hand carved. Our wondrous expedition culminated at a sea cave with yet more impossibly glorious views before we did it all in reverse and sped back to the ship.

That night, there was a special Circus Dinner event that began with appetizers in the Dome, reception area and Atlas Lounge before we all headed to the Restaurant for seven-course tapas-style dinner and a dessert buffet extravaganza.

From Bigger Bergs To A Volcanic Ghost Town

Near Astrolabe Island

The next morning, off Astrolabe Island, we were back in a zodiac captained by our expedition leader Jonathan. Our first stop was within safe distance (since they can “roll” without warning) of a giant, pyramid-shaped berg that would rival anything in Giza, although this one had a huge hole in its center. 

For the next hour or so, we then navigated an ice field peppered with Adélie penguins and a few crabeater seals, and got close enough to actually touch the some of the small, flat bergy bits.

The rest of the day was spent on board the comfortable World Navigator, staring out of the Dome’s windows as we cruised north in the Bransfield Strait, encountering several massive tabular bergs and then actually circling one that was a mile long and a hundred feet tall.

Half Moon Island

By the next morning, I was worn out and considered not going ashore at Half Moon Island, which isn’t far from our first port of call, Barrientos, in the South Shetlands. But I learned long ago that my biggest regrets are the things I did not do, so dutifully embarked on the “medium” hike that brought us up to the Argentine Camara research station, then along a path to a chinstrap breeding ground.

Not surprisingly, there was a small colony of skuas lurking in the rocks above. Later, on the beach where the zodiacs took us back to the ship, we encountered a fascinating wooden whaling boat that had been wrecked for over a half century, that was rather well preserved by the freezing climate.

Deception Island … Our Last Call

The captain warned us that because of the wind conditions, we might not be able to make our final call at Deception Island but that he would do his best. Indeed, as we made our approach to the collapsed volcano’s caldera, which is sort of like Antarctica’s version of Santorini, I felt pity for a smaller cruise ship that bobbed like a cork in the swells. Well, kudos to Captain Sousa, since despite the howling wind, we not only sailed inside but were able to launch the zodiacs for one final hoorah.

What I had never expected in Antarctica was a chance to walk inside an active volcanic crater and furthermore, visit the spooky remains of a whaling station. It was an utterly surreal experience to peek into windows and stand at portals that had been deserted decades ago.

Adding to the dystopian setting were monolithic, rusted tanks that once stored whale blubber, disused turbines and even a giant beached docking platform. Further down the shore, there was a graveyard and a British research station that was abandoned in 1971 (following two major eruptions), the remains of an aircraft hangar and shards of a small runway. It was an utterly spooky, fascinating and brilliant last afternoon in Antarctica.

The rest of the trip was almost as calm as the southbound passage in the Drake. As our fine ship navigated her northbound course to Ushuaia, we spent the next two days resting, enjoying the company of our fellow voyagers, packing and preparing ourselves for the long trip home.

LEARN MORE: Here are some details about the upcoming new ship, Atlas Adventurer

READ MORE ABOUT ANTARCTICA: After multiple trips there, John Roberts shares 5 tips to consider before booking an Antarctica cruise.

READ MORE: Anne Kalosh shares a review of her Antarctica expedition cruise.

Conclusion

Thanks to the hospitality of their hard-working staff, the skill and expertise of their navigation officers under the command of Captain Sousa, the brilliant team of guides and naturalists and the comfortable World Navigator as our home base, Atlas provided us with the ultimate Antarctic cruising adventure.

Would I ever return? I didn’t imagine I’d even go back this time, so I’ll leave that question open for the time being. I do feel that this was an unparalleled experience and one that would be hard to top. Regardless, I will definitely seek out Atlas again for a future cruise, Antarctica or not…

Interested In This Atlas Antarctica Cruise?

For more information, please go to Atlas Ocean Voyages. 

Fares start at $15,499 per person for a Nov 2026 9-night cruise, including:

• One night pre-cruise hotel stay in Buenos Aires
• Charter flight between Buenos Aires & Ushuaia
• All excursions except the camping & kayaking
• Alcohol (wine, beer, cocktails & soft beverages)
• Wifi (e-mail only)

If you'd like assistance booking an Atlas Antarctica expedition, we can connect you with our favorite trusted travel advisor, Kevin. Show your interest below and he'll be happy to assist you!

 

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