Seine River Cruise Review — Seduced by the Seine aboard the Viking Skaga

Seine River Cruise Review

By Toby Saltzman

When the Eiffel Tower sent sparkles across the indigo sky, it illuminated my feelings as I bid a fond adieu to Paris.

Toasting Champagne to the City of Light from the top deck of Viking Skaga on the last night of a river cruise that had exceeded every anticipated pleasure, I felt incredibly seduced by the Seine.

The Viking Skaga is docked within view of the sparkling Eiffel Tower. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Admittedly, as one who had previously toured France and cruised the globe on some of the world’s most luxurious vessels, I had not expected to be so enthralled by the voyage looping round-trip from the heart of France to its historic Normandy coast, or so smitten by the Skaga river cruise experience.

Map of the 7-night “Paris & the Heart of Normandy” Viking cruise itinerary. * Image: Viking

Viking’s new 168-passenger Skaga intrigued me with style and substance.

One of four identical longships purpose-built with customized hulls and engines to navigate the Seine River, Skaga debuted in March 2022 with exclusive docking privileges at Port de Grenelle, a short walk from the Eiffel Tower.

The four are named the Skaga, Radgrid, Kari and Fjorgyn; a fifth Seine sister is to debut in 2025.

RELATED: Peter Knego is on hand for the debut of 8 Viking longships in March 2022.

Skaga’s 7-night itinerary included two overnight stays at this central Paris location, plus essential guided tours in ports along the way.

Particularly appealing to me as a solo traveler, Viking’s optional, 3-night pre-cruise Paris hotel stay conveniently included complimentary breakfasts plus transfers between the airport, hotel, ship and airport on return.

RELATED: Viking turns 25 amid flurry of new small-ship arrivals.

Toby in front of the majestic Eiffel Tower. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Viking’s Seamless Service

Viking delivered reliable service from the start of my Aug 2022 cruise. Since I had booked the 3-day pre-cruise package, a personal driver at Charles de Gaulle airport waited to whisk me to the Pullman Paris Tour Eiffel Hotel, located a short walk from the iconic tower built by Gustave Eiffel as centrepiece of the 1889 Universal Exhibition.

Minutes after arriving, a Viking greeter provided details for my complimentary tour and transfer to Skaga.

A quick stop in my contemporary, tower view room was all I needed before scooting to the hotel’s sunny terrace for salad niçoise. Determined to boost my circadian rhythm, I walked to the Eiffel Tower and strolled along the Seine.

Seeing the river’s bateaux-mouches (open-air tourist boats) crowded with tourists, I envisioned Skaga’s luxury of space.

Viking’s Pre-cruise Intro to Paris

Early next morning, Viking’s Parisian guide Bruno taught my group of eight pre-cruise passengers how to navigate the Paris Métro (subway) before leading a walking tour of historic Le Marais.

Viking’s guide Bruno explains the history of Rue St-Antoine, France’s finest Renaissance era street. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Speaking animatedly in impeccable English as we explored the district known for France’s finest Renaissance architecture — including Place des Vosges — Bruno gave fascinating context to the convoluted history that inspired the French Revolution.

Located in the historic Le Marais, Place des Vosges is renown as Paris finest Renaissance era square. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Exploring narrow streets and alleys, Bruno explained how the area transitioned over time from hubs of literary and intellectual salons, to pre-war Jewish shops and homes, to the current fashionable district.

The next two days — pure bliss for me as an art lover — allowed a leisurely return to my fave Paris cafés and museums including L’Orangerie, home of Monet’s Nyymphéas Water Lilies, painted at his Giverny estate.

Monet’s brilliant paintings stirred my excitement for my long-time dream to see Giverny.

Housed at L’Orangerie, Monet’s cycle of Nyymphéas Water Lilies inspires art enthusiasts to visit his gardens in Giverny. Here, a corner snippet of the first panel. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

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Welcome Aboard Viking Skaga

At first sight, berthed alongside Seine’s left bank at Granelle Bridge, Skaga appeared like an elegant residence afloat, its glassy balcony enclosures gleaming in the sun.

Stretching 410 feet long, with 84 outside staterooms to accommodate 168 guests, Skaga’s upper deck premium rooms have floor-to-ceiling windows opening to outdoor balconies.

Designed for friendly mingling with a decidedly residential ambience, Skaga’s interior exudes contemporary Scandinavian flair with blond woods.

Viking Skaga’s interior spaces have a decidedly residential flair. Here, three images showing the Skaga library, main lounge and small lounge. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Furnishings in the lounges and library are toned with hues of blues, creams, whites and greys, all emblematic of Nordic landscapes.

The main lounge opens to the forward-facing Aquavit Terrace, a favorite spot to imbibe approaching scenery while enjoying meals or drinks.

Viking Skaga’s interior spaces have a decidedly residential flair, including the Main Lounge. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

The forward-facing Aquavit Terrace is a favourite spot for al fresco meals while enjoying the scenery. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

A bright mural above the staircase landing explains Skaga’s name after the beautiful Valkyrie Skaga who flew on her horse to lead fallen soldiers to Valhalla, kingdom of the gods, in the epic battle of Ragnarok.

Viking Skaga’s top sun deck is arranged like a resort garden. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Skaga’s top sun deck is arranged like a resort garden with plenty of chaise longues, shaded sofas, tables and chairs. Around the perimeter, a walking track allows panoramic viewing.

Among the variety of suites and staterooms, my “Veranda A” category is a compact oasis of calm with a walk-out balcony, long desk, plenty of electric outlets, and a shower-stall bathroom stocked with luxe amenities.

The “Veranda A” category has floor-to-ceiling windows opening to a walk-out balcony. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

“Veranda A” cabins are light filled. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

All accommodations have easy access to gourmet coffee stations, the computer station and elevator.

Ports for the 7-night Paris & the Heart of Normandy Cruise

1. Paris, embark
2. Paris
3. La Roche-Guyon & Vernon
4. Rouen
5. Normandy Beaches
6. Les Andelys
7. Le Pecq & Paris
8. Paris, disembark

Enchanting scenes along the Seine River. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Seine River Cruise Day 1: Overnight in Paris

After a welcome lunch, a guided orientation tour gave a sense of place to new arrivals.

Later, everyone gathered in the lounge for cocktails to meet the top brass.

Captain Pascal Eschbach explained the Seine — its name meaning “snake” — is the second longest river in France. It begins just outside the Burgundy region and flows northwest into Paris and snakes its way through Normandy to the city of Rouen before reaching the English Channel at Le Havre.

Hotel Director Celina Sousa, one of the world’s few females in that position at sea, told us to be on deck at 10:00 p.m. sharp for the Eiffel Tower’s nightly sparkle ritual.

VIDEO: See the glittering lights of the Eiffel Tower for yourself, below.

Executive Chef Jozsef Palinkas outlined his culinary concept for using fresh local products, meats and seafood.

Program Director Magali Goddeeris said the daily cocktail hour would include briefings for the next day’s tours.

After a sumptuous dinner of escargot and Sea Bass served with select Côtes du Rhône wines, I scooted to the top deck, Champagne in hand.

Toby and Captain Pascal Eschbach. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Seine River Cruise Day 2: Panoramic Paris

Early next morning, while some guests optioned for tours of the Louvre, Montmartre or culinary flavors, I joined the complimentary Panoramic Paris tour.

Paris’s twenty arrondissements (districts) are divided like a snail, and sit on the right or left bank of the Seine. To differentiate between right and left, the guide jokingly explained: “La Rive Gauche pense, La Rive Droit depense. The Left thinks, the Right spends.”

En route, as the guide put Paris’ core — Île de la Cité — and prominent sites into historic context, I noticed many landmarks, including Grand Palais and Les Invalides, being refurbished for the 2024 Olympics.

Toby on the famous “lock bridge.” * Photo: Toby Saltzman

The Eiffel Tower is being repainted in “Eiffel Tower brown.”

All Paris hopes the Notre-Dame — its towers built in 1250 destroyed by fire in 2019 — will be complete in time.

Parisians hope that Notre-Dame Cathedral will be completed for the 2024 Olympics. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

From the Louvre we crossed the Pont des Arts — aka “Love Bridge” for its lovers’ locks — into Saint Germaine des Pres and to the Latin Quarter. Passing the Church of Saint Sulpice, the film site of The Davinci Code, the guide quipped: “Never enter with a copy of the book.”

The Louvre is the world’s most visited museum. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Back on Skaga, mingling with other passengers over lunch, I learned people had chosen the Seine River cruise for various reasons.

For some, it was their first trip to France or Europe. A few, like me, dreamed of seeing Giverny. Many were keen to visit Normandy’s historic beaches.

Interestingly, most were loyal Viking clients who had previously cruised other European rivers or ocean itineraries.

As a solo traveler, fellow passengers that I had met on excursions or in the lounge during cocktail hour always invited me to join them for dinner. I became friendly with several couples and we dined together frequently. In fact, two couples (from New York and Texas) tried to convince me to take future cruises with them!

Skaga was sailing as I dined on beef tenderloin and chocolate molten dessert.

A tasty beef tenderloin. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

After joining the French cheese-tasting session dubbed “Parlez-vous fromage?” I returned to my room for a blissful sleep.

Seine River Cruise Day 3: La Roche-Guyon’s Hub of French Impressionists

This morning I woke up in an Impressionist painting. With Skaga berthed alongside the village of La Roche-Guyon.

I stepped onto my balcony to see nature’s canvas of greens, blues and iridescent hues once painted by Renoir, Pissarro, Cezanne, Braque, Lauvray and Monet, among other artists.

Viking Skaga berthed at La Roche-Guyon, site of the platform where Impressionist artists painted the landscape in changing light. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Barely able to contain my excitement, I quickly walked the ramp to the platform where a century ago Impressionist painters would linger to capture the light with palettes of paint as it changed throughout the day.

Following a path marked with plaques of various artists’ paintings, I strolled through a lavender scented garden filled with blooming pear trees toward the town.

The quintessential French village of La Roche-Guyon was once the site of an ancient Roman fortress. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Exploring the quintessential village with its century-old chateau and ancient hilltop fortress, I arrived at a bakery brimming with fragrant pastries and a butcher shop with the freshest-looking poultry and meats I’ve ever seen.

In the village of La Roche-Guyon, a local butcher caters to local restaurants and inns with superb quality meats and poultry. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Back on Skaga for an al fresco lunch of salad and grilled salmon on the Aquavit Terrace, we sailed to Vernon, where we would take a short drive to Giverny.

Eyes on scenery, I felt spellbound, as if gliding through a painting of shimmering waters bordered by verdant landscapes and capped by blue skies scattered with wisps of white clouds. The sensation was serene, sublime, ecstatic. If only I could pocket this splendid day to pull out for an inspiring lift.

VIDEO: The lovely views along the Seine, below.

Monet’s Giverny

A pilgrimage for Claude Monet’s admirers, Giverny was little known before Monet settled there in 1883 with Alice Hoschedé, who became his second wife, her six children and his two sons.

Hailed as founder of the French Impressionist movement that included Degas, Manet and Renoir, Monet was enchanted by the location, half-way along the winding Seine from Paris to Rouen, and right on the River Epte which separates Ile de France from Normandy.

In this rural farmland, Monet created two gardens that he painted incessantly in changing light. I delighted in a guided tour through the flower garden brimming with huge dahlias, roses, sunflowers, hollyhocks and clematis.

In Giverny, Monet’s flower garden is brilliant with huge blossoms. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

To stroll around the tranquil water garden and over the green Japanese bridge that are portrayed in the Water Lilies cycle was simply thrilling.

In Giverny, Monet’s water garden inspired his Water Lilies cycle of paintings that hang in L’Orangerie. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

An enclave with bales of hay evoked visions of Monet painting his bales over and over in different light. The house speaks of a cultural moment in time, intact since Monet’s death in December 1926,

A Taste of Normandy

As Skaga sailed the Seine into Normandy that evening, Chef Palinkas treated passengers to a lavish feast of Normandy cheeses, produce and meats.

As Skaga sailed into Normandy, Hotel Director Celina Sousa dressed in costume to serve up a lavish spread of local cheeses produced from the famed Normandy dairy cows. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Later on, while lingering on my balcony to see the sunset, I imagined nature’s brush strokes coloring the sky.

Seine River Cruise Day 4: Rouen to Honfleur

After passing through the D’Amfreville Locks, we arrived at Rouen, Normandy’s biggest city and gateway to gastronomy. Here, options included exploring the city and Rouen Cathedral, visiting a farm and touring the countryside famous for Normandy dairy cows, various crops, and the apple trees for the famed Calvados Apple Brandy.

My choice to visit the historic coastal city of Honfleur was worth the one-hour and fifteen-minute bus ride. Located at the point where the Seine broadens to the sea, medieval Honfleur captivated the French Impressionists.

Located at the point where the Seine broadens to the sea, the medieval city of Honfleur drew Impressionist artists to paint its fishing port and the local Normans in their local costumes. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

By 1864, it was a hub for artists – including Monet and Pissarro – to escape Paris to paint the sea, the fishing port and the local Normans in their local costumes. Fortunately, Honfleur was spared the ravages of time and war.

Stepping into Honfleur is stepping into the past, where original timber-framed houses border narrow cobbled streets.

VIDEO: Have a look at the Honfleur harbor below.

That evening, conversations buzzed about the next day’s visit to the Normandy beaches and cemeteries. Emotions were palpable as passengers shared stories of relatives or friends who survived D-Day and WWII to tell their stories, or who perished and lay in battlefield cemeteries.

Program Director Magali Goddeeris impressed everyone with her offer to personally research the location of the resting place of any person, and provide directions on how to find it.

Seine River Cruise Day 5: Normandy Beaches and the Commonwealth Tour

Anticipation flew high as passengers boarded buses in Rouen for the beaches. The D-Day invasions happened early in the morning of June 6, 1944, when about 156,000 Allied soldiers landed on five beaches on the Normandy coast.

The Americans landed on Omaha and Utah beaches. The British and Canadians landed on Gold, Sword and Juno beaches. Most headed for American sites.

I and one other couple who had previously seen American sites opted for Commonwealth sites and the chance to visit Bayeux, home of the historic Bayeux Tapestry.

The ancient Bayeux Tapestry depicts the conquest of England by in 1066 by William the Conqueror. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Enroute to Bayeux, the early golden lighted illuminated the bucolic landscape of gently rolling hills, emerald pastures with red farmhouses set back, their glass windows reflecting the light.

For all its struggles over the centuries, from Roman invasions to World Wars, Bayeux remains surprisingly intact, a sophisticated town, with boutiques and restaurants.

Bayeux thrives with artisan shops and eateries. This talented designer owner specializes in creations featuring red poppies. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

The grounds of the massive Bayeux Cathedral are marked with flags of the Allies who liberated the town 24-hours after the start of D-Day.

Clusters of Allies’ flags flutter at every Normandy site that commemorates D-Day and the following liberations. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Made to be hung in Bayeux Cathedral, the Bayeux Tapestry is 224-feet long. The embroidered fabric was likely crafted in 1077, to depict the conquest of England in 1066 by William the Conqueror.

After miraculously surviving over time, the tapestry is listed on the UNESCO Memory of the World Register.

D-Day Beaches and Cemeteries

History came alive as we passed the coastline, still showing remnants of artificial harbors created by the invading Allies. Along the way, seeing German bunkers evoked somber thoughts.

Bunkers located near Normandy’s beaches remain as testaments to battles fought on D-Day. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Walking along Juno beach on this glorious, windswept day, I could only imagine the agony of arriving in cold rain to face the enemy.

Strolling the beaches of the D-Day landings is a solemn ritual for visitors whose loved ones served in WWII. Juno Beach was the landing sight of Canadian soldiers. * Photo: Canadian Toby Saltman

Visits to museums put the battles into perspective. At both British and Canadian cemeteries, passengers held commemorative services and laid a wreath at the tomb of an unknown soldier.

Later that evening, after dining on poached salmon and tarte tatin, I joined others in the lounge for a concert of 1940s songs, including A Nightingale Sang in Berkeley Square.

Seine River Cruise Day 6: Les Andelys

The mood was cheery as we sailed toward Les Andelys.

Captain Pascal Eschbach carefully berths Viking Skaga alongside the village of Les Andelys. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

After strolling through the historic town and walking up the hill to the ancient ruins of Chateau Gaillard, this was a perfect afternoon to relax on Skaga’s sunny deck and photograph the scenery scattered with Normandy’s famous white limestone cliffs.

Normandy’s famous white limestone cliffs. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

That night, I indulged in goat cheese souffle with tomato coulis and my favourite roast duck breast with shiitake mushrooms in teriyaki sauce.

Roast duck breast with shiitake mushrooms. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Seine River Cruise Day 7: Historic Grandeur of France

Early next morning, Skaga berthed at Le Pecq, six miles from Paris, for an included tour to Chateau Malmaison.

This splendid estate of Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte and his Empress Josephine housed the seat of the French government from 1800 to 1802.

Napoleon’s Library in the Malmaison, estate of Emperor Napoleon and Empress Josephine. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Empress Josephine’s Bed Chamber. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

That afternoon, I delighted in an optional tour of the Palace of Versailles and its lavish gardens scattered with over 200 sculptures.

Gilt gates with images of the Sun King guard the entrance to the Palace of Versailles. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Described as “a harmonious composition and landscape, the definitive monument to French classicism,” Versailles was built from 1664 to 1710 around three courtyards.

Versailles gardens are scattered with over 200 sculptures. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Although Versailles was declared the Capital of France in 1862, Paris remained the official Capital. Tales of Versailles’ survival through the French Revolution, and the beheading of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette are legendary.

Ironically, the exquisite Hall of Mirrors hosted two historic events. The German Empire was proclaimed here on January 18, 1871. And on June 28, 1919, the Treaty of Versailles was signed here ending WWI.

Versailles’ exquisite Hall of Mirrors. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Leaving Versailles through a parade of towering sycamore trees, we headed to Port Grenelle where Skaga had returned for our final night in Paris.

Many passengers headed out for an optional tour of Paris by night. But I preferred lingering on the top deck, and seeing the Eiffel Tower sparkle one last time.

Bon soir, Paris. Au revoir, lovely River Seine. I’d love to sail you again.

The beautiful sunsets of the Seine. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Interested in this Viking Seine River Cruise?

Fares start at $2,799 per person for the 7-night Paris & the Heart of Normandy cruise on the Viking Skaga.

The 3-day pre-cruise Paris package starts at $799 USD per person (based on double occupancy) and includes three hotel nights, breakfasts, one Viking-led tour of Paris, and transfers to hotel and the boat.

Toby takes coffee at Paris’s historic restaurant Le Procope, frequented by writers. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

Final Thoughts on My Viking Seine River Cruise

I highly recommend Viking’s Seine River cruise, Paris to the Heart of Normandy.

My favorite reasons:

• The voyage itself gives an authentic sense of France and French culture as the Seine winds from urbane Paris to quintessential rural villages, and past bucolic countryside to coastal villages rich with contemporary and ancient Norman history. By journey’s end — after lectures and expert guided tours — you leave feeling learned appreciation for sites along the way. I found every Viking guide to be excellent; groups were small, never more than 10; and they all spoke English, French and sometimes other languages.
• French joie de vivre enhances Viking’s sumptuous tastes of France, with every meal featuring local wines and culinary specialties.
• Viking Skaga is perfectly designed to showcase the river’s pleasures. One of four identical longships purpose built to ply the Seine with intimate groups of up to 168 passengers ensconced in comfortable accommodations, its vast exterior top deck and wide-windowed interior lounges allow easy viewing and photography any time of day.
• Viking’s privileged berth at Port Grenelle is convenient for independent exploring and shopping, while giving a glorious view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling over Paris and the Seine.

Toby aboard the Viking Skaga in its convenient Paris mooring. * Photo: Toby Saltzman

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