Judi Cohen Reviews her Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise

Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise

By Judi Cohen

Sometimes the most beautiful things can be found right in your own backyard! Living in Toronto, on the shores of Lake Ontario all my life, I never thought much about exploring the Great Lakes.

Road tripping in Ontario was the only kind of travel I knew, which owed in part to the dearth of passenger ships plying the Great Lakes. Even though this is the largest body of freshwater in the world, it is curious that there has been so little interest from the cruise industry, until recently.

Since the pandemic began, I have been traveling close to home and seeing more of Canada.

Over the past three years, I explored the St. Lawrence River, Lake Ontario, Lake Erie and the historic Rideau Canal on three small ships. And recently I had the opportunity to cruise the remaining Great Lakes for a week with my husband on the new Viking Octantis, a ship carrying 378 passengers (above QuirkyCruise’s normal cap of 300, but Heidi and Ted decided to make an exception, as we do from time to time).

Viking Octantis was the newest, biggest and most high-tech of all the ships I’ve cruised on recently — which includes the much smaller 66-pax Canadian Empress from St. Lawrence Cruise Lines and Ontario Waterways’ 45-pax Kawartha Voyageur. Due to her size, Octantis was well suited for the waves and swells in the Great Lakes.

RELATED: Anne Kalosh reports on Viking turning 25 amid a flurry of  new ship arrivals.

The bow of Viking Octantis, while approachig the Soo Locks. * Photo: Judi Cohen

I was humbled by the unrivalled natural beauty of Lakes Superior, Michigan and Huron, as well as Georgian Bay.

We had front row seats to the landscapes that inspired the famous Canadian “Group of Seven” artists (a group of landscape painters active in the early 20th century) and the use of expedition “toys” to explore remote locations along the shore, all while enjoying the stylish comfortable ship.

In the fall of 2022 we sampled a seven-night Viking Octantis Great Lakes cruise called the “Great Lakes Explorer Route,” from Milwaukee, Wisconsin to Thunder Bay, Ontario.

The route map for the Great Lakes Explorer itinerary with Viking Octantis. * Photo: Viking Cruises

In my opinion, the Great Lakes are on par with many of the world’s most scenic cruising destinations.

The 378-pax Viking Octantis. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The Public Rooms & Amenities of Viking Octantis

The 378-passenger Viking Octantis — named after Sigma Octantis, the south star — is similar in design to Viking’s ocean and river ships, with an abundance of Scandinavian blond woods and warm comfortable public spaces.

However, being an expedition vessel focused in large part on exploring the polar regions, Viking Octantis has a large onboard two-level garage called the Hangar that houses Zodiacs, kayaks, two six-passenger submarines, and what Viking calls their “military-grade special operations boats” (speed-boat launches), all available free-of-charge for off-ship adventures.

Viking Octantis’s two submarines in its Hangar. * Photo: Viking Cruises

Further, there’s a small science lab in the Hangar too, with microscopes. There’s also an area called Expedition Central, a hub on Deck 2 where we could speak to the expedition team and scientists.

Dr. Damon Stanwell-Smith is Viking’s Head of Science and Sustainability, and he oversees any onboard science research done and leads the expedition team as well.

Expedition Central on Viking Octantis. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The mini Science Lab on the Viking Octantis. * Photo: Viking Cruises

Just aft of the spa and fitness center, at the stern, is a large two-story theatre-style auditorium called Aula, with walls and a screen that retract to reveal floor-to-ceiling windows.

I found the heated seating area outside Aula to be a very relaxing nice touch as we were cruising.

Speaking of pampering, a chic spa, called the Nordic Spa, with indoor pool, sauna, snow grotto, cold bucket shower and outdoor badestamp (spa tub) was available to us all at no extra charge.

There was also a well-equipped fitness centre with cardio machines and weights, along with a beauty salon and spa services like facials and massages.

Enjoying the Nordic Spa facilities. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The Living Room and Library, complete with many carefully curated books sorted by subject — from expedition travel to explorers, the solar system and wildlife — were perfect places in which to read, relax and reflect

Living Room and Library on Viking Octantis. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Meanwhile, the two-story Explorers’ Lounge was ideal for socializing with live music as we watched the sunset each evening.

The Hide bar, with its sloped windows beneath the water on Deck 1 became our after-dinner haunt for liquors and aperitifs, and even some storytelling by the expedition team.

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We Occupied a Nordic Penthouse Cabin aboard the Viking Octantis

Our comfortable 169-square-foot Penthouse Cabin #4004 had a large window (that could open) and was located forward on Deck 4.

Configured with one king bed, our cabin had loads of closet and storage space, including a drying closet designed for expedition clothing, a large flat screen TV, desk, and comfortable seating area in the Nordic balcony.

The large window (which Viking, for some reason, calls a “Nordic balcony”) opened from the top-down at a perfect level at which to watch the passing scenery.

Our Nordic Penthouse Cabin #4004. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Dining on our Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise

With so many dining options — there are four — it was difficult to choose where to eat, but we did manage to try every one of the restaurants during our cruise.

All are included at no additional cost, even specialty restaurants like Manfredi’s Italian for Mediterranean.

Menu items in The Restaurant include Scandinavian dishes, the likes of pickled herring and pea soup, as well as regional dishes such as Lake Trout, a Great Lakes fish delicacy.

Do make reservations as soon as you can online at My Viking Journey or right when you board, as they can fill up quickly, especially with a full ship.

We frequented the buffet at the World Café for most breakfasts and lunches. We also enjoyed steak and burgers at the Grill, and sushi and seafood at the Sushi Bar for some dinners.

Salads with fresh baked breads and shave parmesan cheese for lunch at the World Cafe. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The waffles and green juice at the small Norwegian deli, Mamsen’s, are a must to try.

Mamsen’s Waffle and Green Juice. * Photo: Judi cohen

Everything at Mamsen’s is made using traditional family recipes passed down from generation to generation in the family of Viking Cruises chairman Torstein Hagen.

The Bakery with the Baker peeking out. * Phot0: Judi Cohen

A Day-by-Day Account of My Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise

Pre-cruise Stay in Milwaukee, Wisconsin

We decided to spend a day in Milwaukee before the cruise, to allow time for a walk in the downtown area and along the waterfront. We stayed one night at the historic Pfister Hotel, which opened in 1913.

We were told that the Pfister has hosted every U.S. President since William McKinley. Elvis stayed in 1976, and loads of other dignitaries, entertainers and sports celebrities have also slept there.

Lobby of the Pfister Hotel in Milwaukee for pre-cruise night. * Photo: Judi Cohen

There was also time to visit the “River Walk” and the market, stroll in the downtown core and dropping by the Milwaukee Art Museum, an architectural gem on the waterfront.

Dinner at Mason Street Grill, a classic steakhouse in the hotel followed by some jazz in the rooftop bar provided a great little taste of Milwaukee in just one day!

Day 1 — Visiting Mackinac Island, Michigan

Our first port of call, Mackinac Island, is located where Lakes Michigan and Huron connect in the Straights of Mackinac.

Cars are not permitted and everything moves by horse and carriage. The island feels like a film set from the early 1900s with its old-world charm and slow pace.

Horse and Carriage arriving at the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island. * Photo: Judi Cohen

We didn’t take the ship’s guided excursion, but instead went off on our own and walked from the pier passing imposing private cottages and stately homes with large American flags, to the storied Grand Hotel where every US President has stayed and generations of families return year after year to enjoy the beauty of this small island.

We took a horse carriage into the forest behind the main Grand Hotel building for lunch at the hotel’s charming Woods Restaurant with its hunting lodge ambiance.

I had heard about the Woods Restaurant and was eager to check out this hidden gem, with its Bavarian-mountain vibe.

The Woods Restaurant at the Grand Hotel Mackinac Island. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 2 — Georgian Bay Biosphere Centre, Parry Sound, Ontario

The world’s deepest freshwater port is in Parry Sound, Ontario.

Anchoring offshore, tenders took us to the Parry Sound Pier and we walked under an old railway bridge enjoying the sights and sounds as our guide introduced us to the conservation and protection initiatives at the UNESCO-designated Georgian Bay Biosphere.

Walking from the pier on our shore excursion at Parry Sound, Ontario. * Photo: Judi Cohen

She pointed out invasive species of plants and pollinator plants for honeybees.

A small bus then transferred our small group to the Georgian Bay Biosphere Centre where we donned protective gear and became “guest beekeepers,” before moving indoors to learn about the protection of eastern milk snakes and fox sakes and large snapping turtles.

We went downstairs to a temperature-controlled turtle hatchery with hundreds of eggs in plastic boxes, and gathered closely as the biologist used a flashlight and pointed at the bottom of some eggs. To our delight, baby turtles were visible, some poking their legs and heads out of the shells.

For me, learning about the research at the Georgian Bay Biosphere Centre complemented the onboard focus on science.

Scientists, researchers and marine biologists who cruise aboard Viking Octantis collect data, such as atmospheric info from the weather balloons sent up into the sky.

Day 3 — Viking Octantis Calls on Georgian Bay Killarney

When Viking Octantis anchored early in the morning off the Killarney East Lighthouse, curious passengers went up to the top deck for the launch of a weather balloon, which Octantis does from time to time in the Great Lakes and in Antarctica.

Viking Octantis is one of the few civilian ships sanctioned to launch such balloons. Once launched, the data from the balloon could be viewed in real-time on computers in Expedition Central.

Killarney East Lighthouse, Killarney, Ontario. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The paintings by the famous Canadian artists known as the Group of Seven were largely painted in northern Ontario capturing the stunning landscapes along the shores of Georgian Bay with the magnificent rocks and windswept pine trees.

Of all the places we visited on this itinerary, Killarney was the most romantic and inspirational.

During a hike in Killarney Provincial Park we were treated to panoramic views, grand pine trees and the fresh forest fragrance along the way.

The original name of this area was Shebahonaning, or “canoe passage,” and during the fur trading era in the 1800s Killarney Provincial Park had many trails and canoe routes.

Kilarney Ontario View from KIllarney Lodge. * Photo: Judi Cohen

A relaxing afternoon excursion (included in the cruise fares) treated us to a hot lunch buffet at Killarney Lodge’s Canada House, the largest log building in Canada, with live music. We could sit on red Muskoka chairs (Adirondack chairs in the US) to enjoy an al fresco meal on the water’s edge.

Hours passed as we watched red canoes, multi-colour kayaks and paddleboards bobbing on the Killarney Channel, with the Viking Octantis anchored in the Bay.

Viking Ocantis anchored off the Killarney Lodge. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 4 — Submarine Dive in Fraser Bay & a Visit to Okeechobee Lodge

Upon arrival in Fraser Bay with its rugged glacier-sculpted pink granite rock faces and cliffs, we awaited instructions for our dive in Viking Octantis’s submarine.

The lake was very choppy as we boarded a Zodiac for the short ride to where the submarine was bobbing up and down in the swells.

One by one we transferred with the assistance of the captain to the submarine deck. The captain closed the hatch, and the submarine began to descend until we were on the lakebed.

Submarine dive. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Zebra mussel shells, plankton and small fish surrounded us.

Lawrence inside the submarine during a dive in Fraser Bay, Ontario. * Photo: Judi Cohen

There were no mermaids or shipwrecks but this once-in-a-lifetime experience was reward enough for us.

(Note: While all guests have the opportunity to sign up for the submarine dives, they’re weather and wave dependent; after the information briefing, I saw that many passengers decided not to do a dive due to concerns about claustrophobia and mobility. The water was not murky once we were on the lake bottom, but overall there was very little to see.)

We returned to the ship and then took a Zodiac to the historic Okeechobee Lodge with gorgeous views of Manitoulin Island across the channel.

The traditional fishing and hunting lodge with taxidermied moose heads, black bears, seals and all varieties of birds fascinated guests and Octantis crew members.

Some guests hiked to A.J. Casson Peak, named for the Canadian Group of Seven artist, who captured the essence of these incredible landscapes.

We were content to just relax in the lodge and enjoy the Zodiac ride.

Day 5 — Viking Octantis at Sea and Squeezing through the Soo Locks

As we approached the enormous Soo Locks on the St. Mary’s River to cross from Lake Superior into Lake Erie, hundreds of passengers crowded onto the bow to watch Viking Octantis squeeze through the narrow locks.

Opened in 1855 to allow ships to bypass the river’s 21-foot fall over roiling rapids, Soo Locks’ innovative lock system was one of the greatest engineering projects of its day.

The Viking Octantis waited for over an hour at the Soo Locks while the Canadian freighter, CSL Taduessac, owned by Canada Steamship, carefully maneuvered through the locks.

It is one of many freighters carrying bulk cargoes such as iron ore, coal, limestone, grain or salt that traditionally sail in the upper Great Lakes and eventually feed into Lake Ontario en route to the St. Lawrence River and onward to the Atlantic Ocean.

Soo Locks waiting for the Laker CSL Tadoussac to go through the Soo Locks. Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 6 — Silver Islet & Sleeping Giant Provincial Park

Shortly after anchoring off the tip of the Sibley Peninsula near Thunder Bay, the kayaks and Zodiacs were lowered into the brisk water for our morning excursions.

We chose to explore the shoreline on one of Viking’s launch boats, which Viking calls “military-grade special operations boats.” They’re outfitted with hydraulic seats and seat belts for comfort and safety as the ride is quite speedy

We enjoyed breathtaking views of the rugged multi-colour granite rock formations of the Canadian Shield including Sleeping Giant, a massive rock formation that looks like a reclining giant.

Sea Lion Arch in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park. * Photo: Judi Cohen

As we approached Silver Islet, a tiny windswept island where the underwater infrastructure of one of the world’s largest former silver mining operations is still visible, including the mining platforms and the entrance to the old mining shaft.

During an afternoon hike on the Sea Lion Trail in Sleeping Giant Provincial Park, we walked along a beach with smooth grey stones before reaching a panoramic view of the Octantis anchored in Georgian Bay and the Sea Lion Arch glistening in the sun.

We were told that erosion will likely cause the arch to fall into the water in the future.

Day 7 — Thunder Bay, Ontario, the Final Port of Call of our Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise

Arriving in the early evening under rainy skies, Viking Octantis was welcomed on the dock by the MacGillivray Pipe Band.

There were no planned excursions on the Viking itinerary in Thunder Bay, although there are many attractions such as Fort William, art galleries, museums, restaurants as well as hiking trails.

If you can, incorporate a post-cruise stay in Thunder Bay.

(I had an opportunity to return to Thunder Bay a couple of weeks later to enjoy the fall colours and take a fascinating sailboat cruise with Sail Superior to get up close to the abandoned industrial mills along the waterfront and to hike in Kakabeka Provincial Park with the powerful waterfalls, the second highest in Ontario, often referred to as Niagara Falls of the north.)

Judi at the stern of Deck 2 aboard Viking Octantis on a Great Lakes cruise. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 8 — Disembarkation in Thunder Bay, Ontario

While I would say a Great Lakes cruise isn’t for everyone (some passengers on my cruise thought that the itinerary was boring and there wasn’t much to see, and they would have preferred more cities), I find the Great Lakes to be very scenic and a worthwhile cruising region.

The highlight of the “Great Lakes Explorer” itinerary for me was cruising in Northern Ontario, on Lake Huron, Georgian Bay and Lake Superior, one of the most beautiful regions in Canada, and arguably in the world.

Memories of camping and hiking in the parks and along the shoreline flooded back from my younger years.

For me, cruising aboard Viking Octantis was a comfortable and enriching way to learn more about the Great Lakes, with opportunities to learn about the environment and its challenges, that I didn’t have on board the smaller ships I’ve sampled in the Great Lakes and St Lawrence Seaway.

Interested in this Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise?

In 2023, all-inclusive rates for the 7-night Viking Octantis Great Lakes Cruise start at $8,395  per person.

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