My UnCruise Adventures Alaska Review — Bears, Glacier Hikes, New Friends & More … 5 Reasons You’ll Love UnCruising in Alaska Too

UnCruise Adventures Alaska Review

By Heidi Sarna

After a short skiff ride to the mudflats at the terminus of Lamplugh Glacier, a massive eight-mile-long tongue of tidewater ice located in Glacier Bay National Park at the entrance to John Hopkins Inlet, a group of about 15 of us stood on the gravelly beach and stared up at the glacier’s face, some 160 feet high and more than a half mile wide. Wow!

To get a view from above it, we followed our enthusiastic young guide, Shamus, on the morning’s exhilarating trek along a ridge flanking the ice. His tall lithe frame moved effortlessly up the hill as we trailed behind, scrambling up the stony path that rose, dipped and snaked over crumbly rocks and scrubby foliage that at times obscured the trail completely.

Trekking up along the Lamplugh glacier. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

But the goal was always clearly in sight: An open spot about 800 feet up with breathtaking views of the thick band of ice and snow below. We were so close to the Lamplugh Glacier we could see the accordion-like crevices and striations carved on its journey.

Meanwhile, in the distance, a huge cruise ship lumbered past. I pictured its thousands of passengers at the railing taking in the glacier from afar; mega-ships like that are too big and drafty to get close and simply can’t discharge their hordes of passengers on intimate excursions like our little cruise ship could.

Most of our small group reached the top in about an hour or so — one couple wanted to turn back as it was too strenuous for them, and so we waited for Shamus to return after leading them back down to sea level.

The views from the top were awesome and the sense of accomplishment getting there felt great.

The Lamplugh glacier viewing point, with our little ship a dot in the distance. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Robin & Heidi at the top, relishing the journey as well as the destination. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

RELATED: Interested in UnCruising in Alaska? Here are some special offers to consider.

Our Nimble Access for the Week

Our ship, the Wilderness Explorer (WEX), with a maximum passenger capacity of 74, was a toy anchored below in the dark mineral-rich waters of the Inside Passage.

Unlike the giant ships that put several thousand passengers in the peanut gallery, we were in the front row — and WEX was the friendly usher who showed us to our seats.

With just 18 passengers on our early September, end-of-season sailing from Juneau to Ketchikan, it seemed WEX anchored almost anywhere it felt like to send us off in skiffs and kayaks. The captain would cut the engines near a scenic waterfall or a surfacing whale exhaling gusts of air through its blowhole, granting us the luxury of not only seeing Alaska up close but hearing it as well.

A small ship like the Wilderness Explorer can get this close to a glacier. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

A Week of Invigorating Outdoor Adventures Among Alaska’s Fjords and Glaciers

Several other times during the week there would be opportunities for vigorous hikes through Alaska’s peaty bogs and boreal forests. I did them all, along with about a dozen other passengers likewise drawn to the hardy treks. (Note, knee-high rubber hiking boots are a must; you can borrow them on board or bring your own.)

There were other kinds of excursions small ship cruises to Alaska are known for: some folks chose gentler walks, paddle boarding or kayaking. Skiff tours along the shoreline were popular daily offerings and always a highlight. And of course the polar plunge counts — five passengers (not me!) and three crew did running jumps off the kayak launch into the cold 37-degree water.

Five passengers and several crew did the polar plunge as the rest of us clapped and cheered. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

A few passengers stayed onboard most days to enjoy the scenery from deck or a comfy seat in the windowed lounge that offered 180-degree views. Among them was a a senior couple who had been on more than a dozen UnCruise adventures. They were practically part of the crew!

Though she and her husband rarely left the ship, this UnCruise regular enjoyed painting watercolors of the beautiful landscape. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

We sailed out of Juneau, ending in Ketchikan, spending the week cruising some 800 miles into Glacier Bay National Park, Endicott Arm, Fords Terror, Thomas Bay and more.

We poked around, as only small ship cruises can, in the maze-like Inside Passage with its countless straits, canals and coves, marveling at Alaska’s fjords and glaciers. I can’t remember the name of every spot we anchored but it didn’t really matter — we were in the middle of glorious nowhere.

Small-ship cruising in beautiful nowhere. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Wilderness Explorer‘s Public Rooms & Cabins

WEX was our homey mother ship to retire to after each outing to share stories with new friends, often enjoying drinks in the windowed main lounge at the bow of the ship, the main hub.

The main with windows on three sides. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Everyone also spent plenty of time outside on the generous foredeck adjacent to the lounge. A hot tub there was greatly appreciated after long hikes.

Hot tubbing it on the Wilderness Explorer after a hardy hike in Alaska’s natural bounty. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Then it was time to bond with new friends at dinner in the restaurant, where mostly long tables for eight made it easy to mingle while savoring tasty meals.

Breakfast and lunch were offered buffet style, while dinners were elegantly plated and served by friendly and efficient wait-staff. Memorable dining isn’t the point of an UnCruise, but there were many tasty meals, including a delicious cod, fresh salmon and a juicy fried chicken that really hit the spot.

Local sockeye salmon for dinner. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

The lunchtime salad bar was always a welcome for healthy refueling, along with the featured hot choices, like lasagna or fish and chips.

Great salads and hot items too at the lunch buffet. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

My friend Robin and I slept soundly each night snuggled in the twin beds of our cozy cabin, #202. Our window could slide open when we wanted to feel the sea breezes or take some photos (note: it’s advisable to do that only when the ship is moving to keep gnats from getting in).

Heidi hamming it up in her cabin. #202. * Photo: Robin McAdoo

Our small bathroom had a shower with strong pressure, which was always appreciated after a day outside exploring the wilds of Alaska. Storage space was limited (pack light!) and included a drawer under the bed.

Our compact cabin bathroom. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

VIDEO: Below, Heidi shows you around her cabin, #202.

Like the rest of the quirky UnCruise fleet, cabins are not luxurious, they’re comfortable and functional. Very few are alike; choose yours based on location, size and features. For instance, many cabins have doors opening up to a promenade deck vs opening up to an interior corridor. Steer clear of cabins near the engines.

Wilderness Explorer is a cozy ship that seems to fit perfectly in Alaska — authentic, sturdy and welcoming.

Cabins and public rooms are spread across three decks. Here, I’ll show you in these three videos:

VIDEO: Heidi shows you around WEX’s Main Deck, where there are cabins, the dining room and the kayak/skiff launch deck.

VIDEO: And now Wilderness Explorer’s Lounge Deck, where you’ll find cabins, the main lounge and the outside viewing deck.

VIDEO: Here’s the top of the ship, the Sun Deck, where there are more cabins, a lovely promenade, some outdoor gym equipment as well as the bridge.

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Our route was plotted on a map each day. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Summing it all up, here are 5 reasons I recommend small ship cruises in Alaska with UnCruise

1. The Active Excursions — Hiking, Kayaking & More

Hands down, as described in my introduction, the excursions were the best part of my UnCruise in Alaska and the main reason why the trip has left such a positive impression on me. Getting off the ship for a few hours each day, typically before and after lunch, to do something active was the ultimate way to experience Alaska and have it really soak in.

Excursion groups met at the stern of the Sun Deck for any gear needed, such as life vests for kayaking, paddle boarding or skiff rides. You could borrow knee-high rubber boots for the muddy treks on day one and keep them for the week in your cabin.

Then it was down two flights of stairs to the handy kayak, paddle board and skiff launch area for easy boarding.

Super convenient kayak launch at the stern had kayakers easily pushed into the water and pulled back in again when finished. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

VIDEO: Here’s how the kayak launch works! 

For me, the guided treks over super-scenic terrain were the best excursions. Some days there would be  a choice of both an easier trek and a more challenging one — think hills, rocky trails and mud!

Besides the Lamplugh Glacier hike, there was a swashbuckling, no-trail bushwhacking adventure led by senior guide, Erin, that took us into a thick forest of moss-covered trees straight out of Lord of the Rings. We zigzagged through the peat-like muskeg, scrambling over giant fallen spruce and around boulders left behind by receding glaciers.

Our Lord of the Rings bushwhacking hike. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Another outing was a brisk uphill climb on a rocky path to a waterfall.

A hike to a scenic waterfall. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Yet another had us traipsing along a muddy trail that was very slippery; it was fun and challenging to stay upright. Fun, that is, until my friend, Robin, slipped (nothing dramatic, just one of those things) and broke her wrist when she put her arm out to brace herself.

Slip happens … Robin getting a temporary splint after falling. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Sh*t happens as they say.

Our guide Shamus, with the help of a passenger who was a nurse — thank goodness — created a splint for Robin (from the medical kit Shamus carried) and soon we all walked back to shore to board the skiff to get back to Wilderness Explorer.

The captain decided to change course (we had two nights remaining in the cruise) and took us straight to Ketchikan, a two-hour sail, so Robin could get to a hospital. I accompanied her. The ship waited in port for a few hours and we were luckily able to get back on board after seeing the on-call doctor in the four-bed emergency room. He determined that Robin would need surgery on her wrist, and said it would be better for her to wait and get it done at home.

Armed with some painkillers, Robin and I were back on board WEX a few hours later to cheers from the crew and passengers, who were happy to see Robin able to complete the cruise. My resilient, tough-cookie friend managed to enjoy the rest of the cruise, even joining the next day’s skiff excursion when a bear was spotted. (More on this later). Despite the accident, Robin and I loved that the treks were rugged and challenging.

One passenger, a fit 70-something who did many of the hikes, summed it up well one afternoon: “We’re all risk takers, that’s why we’re here!”

Among the many plusses, the beauty of small ship cruises is their flexibility and personal service; in this case WEX’s captain was able to change course and take the ship to Ketchikan for a few hours so we could get to the hospital.

Post emergency room visit in Ketchikan, Robin managed to enjoy the rest of the cruise. Yay! * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Throughout the week I also managed to get out twice in a double kayak, once with a new friend, Lisa, who was on her second UnCruise traveling solo. On this outing with our guide, Peter, and a few others, we were super-excited to spot a bear at some distance while paddling near a quiet cove.

Moments later we spotted the bear up ahead fishing along the shoreline. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

The bear was fishing in a creek that emptied into it. Afterwards, we paddled near the steep stone walls of nearby fjords and through a gap in a picture-perfect grotto.

VIDEO: Our beautiful grotto paddle, below.

The skiff excursions included motoring up close (about a quarter-mile …it seemed less) to South Sawyer Glacier and witnessing a dramatic calving of the terminal face that sent an undulating, mini-tidal wave of water under our boat. It was thrilling and, I admit, a bit scary.

Guides Peter and CeCe said it was the most active they’d ever seen South Sawyer Glacier in all their lives, and they’d been there many times.

South Sawyer Glacier dropped a big chunk of ice into the water moments after I took this shot * Photo: Heidi Sarna

2. The Awesome Wildlife

As a small ship, we were mostly alone in the vast wilderness of southeast Alaska wherever we anchored, rarely running into other groups. What we did encounter was wildlife — bears, otters, seals and whales in their natural habitats!

For me, seeing bears in the wild was the most exciting.

A thrill to see fresh bear tracks too. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

One was scavenging along the shoreline which we could see through binoculars from deck, and another we spotted from our kayaks.

The third sighting was the most thrilling by far. While on a skiff excursion around the waters of the Behm Canal, off of Revillagigedo Island, an eagle-eyed guide (or maybe one of the passengers) spotted her first. A large black bear was swimming across the water near our skiff, from one island to another.

THIS was why we were in Alaska!

Two women in our group on paddleboards saw the bear even closer than we did!

VIDEO: Here’s our amazing bear sighting.

When it comes to whales, there are certain times of the Inside Passage season,May through early August — and certain places — when you’re more likely to see them.

Click HERE to read more about whale watching in Alaska. 

We didn’t spot a lot of whales on our early September cruise, but the day we saw them sure made up for it.

Standing on the WEX’s foredeck, a passenger, who was particularly eager for some whale action, noticed it first. There were two groups of humpbacks bubble-net feeding — a fascinating group feeding strategy. As seabirds circled above (also looking for fish), the whales engaged in a feeding frenzy that had everyone on deck, including crew, giddy with joy.

Most days we spotted the small shiny slick heads of seals and otters floating and swimming along without a care in the world, sometimes near our kayaks.

And one misty morning, though visibility was low, we heard and faintly saw a colony of steller sea lions barking in cacophonous joy on a cluster of nearby rocks.

We also saw the white heads of bald eagles, tufted puffins and pelagic cormorants while on excursions and also from deck as the WEX slowly cruised around the bays and fjords of the Inside Passage.

3. The Enthusiastic and Knowledgeable Crew

The four guides on our sailing as well as the skiff drivers, who were part of the navigation team, were super enthusiastic, friendly and eager to show us the wild side of Alaska that they so love.

Working as one of UnCruise’s naturalists and guides isn’t just a job, it’s a calling. They led the excursions, helped folks navigate the trails and assisted us getting in and out of kayaks and skiffs. The guides were on hand to answer questions, share tidbits about the local flora and fauna, and keep everyone safe while out exploring. Their camaraderie with each other, as well as passengers, created a great vibe.

Mostly in their 20s and 30s, the guides and skiff drivers hailed from such states as Idaho, Montana and Wisconsin, places, like Alaska, that are known for their vast expanses of natural bounty.

In the off-season, knowledgeable guide Peter is a substitute teacher with a master’s degree in education and past experience working at a zoo and on his family’s farm. He had a good grasp of Alaska’s flora and fauna and could answer all our questions about bears and glaciers.

Guide Peter. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

With UnCruise for five years, head guide Erin was also the cruise director on our sailing, instilling great confidence in the whole operation with her friendly, forthright demeanor and knowledge about plants (especially mushrooms and lichens) and wildlife. In her spare time, we were impressed that Erin is also a news reporter for KCAW in Sitka.

Erin, the senior guide on our cruise. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Super-energetic guide Kelsie graduated from college just a few years ago with a science degree; for UnCruise she harnesses her bubbly personality to lead invigorating treks on shore. I greatly enjoyed one along a winding uphill path through thick mossy forest to check out some waterfalls.

No-nonsense CeCe, the Boatswain and deck crew manager, had a twinkle in her eye and a love of her vocation, having worked in higher education before changing careers. She hosted a cool evening of Sea Shanty singing, teaching us folk tunes that helped mariners get into a rhythm when doing their work heaving the sails, loading cargo and building ships.

CeCe, the Boatswain. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Other evenings, the guides did slideshows about glaciers, whales and the economics of  the timber industry in Alaska. Their reverence for Alaska’s natural treasures and focus on leaving as light a footprint as possible during excursions was inspiring.

4. The Like-Minded Passengers

Just like the guides, the passengers on an UnCruise are there because they’re nature lovers drawn to hands-on experiential travel. I greatly enjoyed cruising on a cozy ship with like-minded travelers who were game for adventure and getting their feet wet, too. The down-to-earth, friendly folks were easy with a smile and a hand when hiking if someone needed a tug up a steep bit of trail or help up after slipping on some moss.

The treks and kayaking outings were also a great bonding opportunity, as the same group of us tended to choose them each day and then rehash the highlights and challenges afterwards.

Heidi & Lisa kayaking. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

As the week wore on and friendships jelled, it was sweet how we would all fetch drinks for whomever was relaxing sore muscles in the hot tub so they wouldn’t have to get out. In the lounge and the adjacent outdoor foredeck, everyone chatted with one another like old friends as we looked for whales together and sipped happy hour cocktails.

At dinner, many folks gravitated to the same dinner table with new friends, but it never felt cliquey, and it was easy to mingle. Several passengers were cruising solo, but they were never alone.

It was easy to make friends with the sociable down-to-earth folks like these two cuties on our UnCruise in Alaska. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

5. The All-Inclusive Fares

It’s very convenient to have everything included in the fares, with no signing for drinks or excursions. All-inclusive pricing keeps the focus on Alaska and having a good time.

(Only suggested crew gratuities at the end of the cruise are extra.)

Besides a choice of house wines, beer (draft and bottles) and cocktails, there was always a drink of the day. On my sailing, bartender Sean dedicated time and creativity to concoct delicious drinks with fresh fruit, often beginning preparations the evening before — for instance when he made Watermelon Crushes with fresh watermelon and mint-infused rum.

The delicious watermelon crush. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

What’s Included:

• All meals (including Happy Hour snacks)
• Cocktails, beer, wine and sodas
• All excursions and park fees
• Activity equipment (kayaks, paddleboards, knee-high rubber boots to borrow)
• Airport transfers
• Wifi on board (which was almost non-existent on our cruise and actually, a blessing in disguise … live in the moment!)

The boots I borrowed from this bin were comfortable and super useful on our daily muddy treks. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Heidi’s Alaska Packing Tips

Take it from me, be prepared with the right stuff, including layers layers layers.

Here’s my Alaska Packing List.

In case you didn’t get the memo … pack layers layers layers, like Heidi is wearing here! * Photo: Robin McAdoo

Interested in This UnCruise Adventures Alaska Cruise?

UnCruise’s 7-night Glacier Bay National Park Adventure round-trip from Juneau is similar to the itinerary I enjoyed, with all-inclusive fares starting at $4,400 per person.

Note, the cruise I experienced was slightly different than what I originally signed up for (it left a day later, for one thing, and cruised from Juneau to Ketchikan, instead of round-trip Juneau as originally advertised on the UnCruise website). Turns out, several cruises were combined into one (end of season cruises often aren’t full, so this happens).

I have to be honest, I was annoyed by the itinerary changes at first, but in the end, the “new” cruise wound up being even more awesome than we imagined, as we had more days to hang out in Glacier Bay due to an abundance of permits. (And UnCruise was good about reimbursing me for charges I incurred to change my original flights at the last minute.)

In conclusion, as you can probably tell from this UnCruise Adventures Alaska review, I’m a big fan of  UnCruising in Alaska.

I recommend this quirky cruise because of the intimacy of a small ship, that fosters not only foster an instant community but gives travelers the luxury of up-close access to Alaska’s natural beauty and wildlife.

When I look back on my trip, I often recall our last afternoon on board Wilderness Explorer as we cruised along the granite walls in Misty Fjords national park. The sun was starting to wane and the lighting was just right, casting atmospheric shadows on the water and surrounding scenery as we mingled on the foredeck, enjoying drinks and conversation with friends we had gotten to know quite well in just a week. As you do on a small-ship cruise like the Wilderness Explorer.

The ending to a wonderful week. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

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