Caption above: Donna & brother Michael at the Niederwald Monument, with Rudesheim below.
Rhine & Moselle Cruise Aboard Riviera Resplendence
By Donna Heiderstadt
A river itinerary that cruises both the Rhine and the Moselle often requires a two-week commitment, which is wonderful if you have the time. In fact, that’s how I first experienced this scenic river combo on a 14-night cruise from Basel to Amsterdam that visited ports in five countries: Switzerland, Germany, France, Belgium, and The Netherlands.
That extended itinerary made me curious about what a shorter Rhine & Moselle sailing that called on ports solely in Germany might be like. It would certainly be more efficient both time- and cost-wise, but would it also feel rushed?
I found out during a 7-night Rhine & Moselle sailing, roundtrip from Cologne, aboard MS Riviera Resplendence, the newest river ship in Great Britain-based Riviera Travel’s fleet. I was joined by my brother Michael, an avid ocean cruiser who had never done a river sailing.

As a bonus, we planned a post-cruise visit to a German town that’s not on the tourist map, perhaps because it’s located in a fairly rural region of the state of North Rhine-Westphalia about a 2.5-hour drive from Cologne. Our mission? To see where our great-great grandfather, Frederick, was born in 1819 before he emigrated in 1848 to the United States.
But first we’d enjoy a river voyage with equal time divided between the meandering, wine-centric Moselle and the wider, castle-lined Rhine. It was mid-July and the Rhine’s water level was historically low after weeks of intense heat and drought. By luck, temperatures had cooled for our sailing and somehow the ship managed to stick to its intended itinerary, despite having had to deviate to The Netherlands both the week before and for several weeks after our cruise.

CRUISE SUMMARY
Before we get into the details, here is a brief summary of my Riviera Resplendence cruise.
4 highlights of our recent Rhine & Moselle cruise:
- Impressive Dining. Standout meals ranged from Mosaic's buffet and a la carte lunch options and Danube/Rhine/Seine/Douro-inspired dinners (French onion soup, Viennese schnitzel, sauerbraten, Black Forest trifle) to Riverview Kitchen's grilled halloumi & watermelon salad and fish ‘n chips, plus Riverside's Signature Dinner featuring Beef Wellington and salted caramel cake.
- The Breathtaking Rhine Gorge. A scenic morning sailing between Boppard and Rüdesheim featured castle commentary from Cruise Director Andre and warming Rüdesheimer Coffee (flambéed brandy, coffee, whipped cream, cocoa).
- Extra Touches. Beyond regular meals, we enjoyed four o'clock High Tea on the Moselle, an afternoon ice cream buffet on the Rhine, and a final-night Chocolate Tasting Extravaganza with the Cologne Chocolate Museum.
- Excellent Crew. The bar team, wait staff across three restaurants, and housekeeping all delivered friendly, high-quality service.
We were disappointed by these areas:
- Limited Sun Deck Access. Low bridges and high water levels on the Moselle for several days forced the Sun Deck's closure, limiting views of the passing scenery to the Panorama Lounge or small Deck 3 terraces.
- Limits on the Beverage Package. The included package covers beer, daily wines, and a cocktail special, but premium drinks like Negronis or bourbon cost extra — though the regional wines impressed us.
- The Rushed Pace in Certain Ports. We would have loved to have had a bit more time to linger and independently explore a few of these incredible cities and towns, namely Trier, Koblenz, and Bernkastel.
Keep reading for more details.
What To Know About MS Riviera Resplendence
I love the fresh gleam of a new cruise ship and when Michael and I stepped aboard MS Riviera Resplendence it was obvious that its inaugural had been just two weeks prior on July 4, 2026. The public spaces were polished to perfection and as we walked the long corridor to our cabin on the Diamond Deck (deck 3), that new carpet smell was impossible to miss.
The ship accommodates 178 guests, with a crew of 44, and Riviera Travel charters it from Scylla, a Switzerland-based company that also supplies river vessels to other tour companies, including U.S.-based Tauck, that don’t manage their own fleets.
The only Riviera employees were our Cruise Director, Andre, and Assistant Cruise Director, Adriana, who hailed from Portugal and Brazil, respectively. The rest of the crew were Scylla employees from countries that included the Philippines, Indonesia, Turkey, and Serbia. Our captain, Jurrien, was from The Netherlands.

Riviera's Guest Profile
Since Riviera Travel is a British company, it caters mainly to U.K. guests, although a recently launched marketing campaign in the U.S. is focused on adding more Americans to the mix — especially Anglophiles who enjoy engaging with travelers from across the pond. All the guests Michael and I spoke with were super-friendly Brits and Scots, many of whom had traveled with Riviera before.
The demographic was mature (age 65 and older) but relatively fit (very few canes and walkers), which matched the mobility required for the 1–1.5-hour walking tours offered in each port (with a Gentle Walkers option for those with a slower pace). There were no bus tours, with the exception of transfers to and from Trier, so guests needed to be able to explore via their own two feet to enjoy the ports.
The main public spaces on MS Riviera Resplendence have an open-plan layout centered around the Panorama Lounge, which is linked by wide, curving staircases to the elevated and forward-facing Bar and the lower-level Riverside main restaurant. Guests are drawn in by a mosaic of patterns and colors, mostly browns, golds, and blues, that is visually rich and welcoming.
VIDEO: Below is a look at the Panorama Lounge area.
What impressed me most, however, were that we could dine in our choice of three restaurants, a rarity on river ships, where one, perhaps two, is the norm.
The largest venue, Riverside Restaurant is located on the Ruby Deck (deck 2) and offers both a buffet and a la carte breakfast and lunch, while dinner features an internationally-inspired a la carte menu that changes each night with several appetizer, entrée, and dessert options.

VIDEO: Below is a closer look at the Riverside Restaurant, with its large windows and bar area above.
Mosaic, located just below on the Emerald Deck (deck 1), features the same breakfast and lunch options as Riverside, but its reservation-required, four-course dinner menu remains the same throughout the cruise. Each course features four options, however, so dining here multiple times is possible. The ambience is also more intimate than in Riverside and Michael and I both agreed that lunch and dinner in Mosaic were highlights.

We also really enjoyed lunch in Riverview Kitchen, a light-filled space located aft on the Diamond Deck that serves a more casual menu at open-seating lunch and a reservation-required dinner menu that is different from both Riverside and Mosaic, but is somewhat limited and remains the same throughout the cruise.

Cabins & Suites
The ship’s 89 cabins and suites are offered in four categories. Most are 172-square-foot Double Cabins on the middle Ruby and upper Diamond decks. They feature floor-to-ceiling panoramic windows with a French-balcony railing, twin beds that can be configured as a queen, a marble bath with a glass-enclosed walk-in shower, sufficient drawer and closet storage, a large-screen TV, and a Nespresso coffee machine. There’s also a subcategory of Double Cabins on the lower Emerald Deck that offer the same square footage but only have an oblong eye-level window.
As Michael and I settled into our Double Cabin (#335) on the Diamond Deck, we realized that its configuration was different from most. In fact, 335 is one of four Double Cabins (the others are 334, 239, and 238) that are located aft next to a stairwell, requiring a tighter layout with very limited storage/closet space. This means they’re not ideal for anyone who doesn’t pack light.

The ship also has eight Superior Suites, all on the Diamond and Ruby decks. They are 258 square feet with a separate sitting area and an entire wall of floor-to-ceiling French-balcony windows. The largest option is one of the four Grand Balcony Suites. These airy, open-plan suites on the Diamond Deck are twice the size of Double Cabins at 344 square feet and are the only option to feature a private outdoor balcony with seating.
VIDEO: Below, Donna shows us around her compact Double Cabin, #335, on the Diamond Deck.
The lower Emerald Deck of MS Riviera Resplendence is home to a fitness center with cardio and weight machines, as well as a massage room (treatments can be booked at an extra cost) and a complimentary steam room and sauna. On the Sun Deck, there’s a walking track and a small, unheated splash pool (size-wise it’s not much larger than a hot tub) in addition to shaded seating and tables.

VIDEO: Below, Donna shows us the ship's Sun Deck.
Our 7-Night Rhine & Moselle Itinerary
Riviera’s Rhine & Moselle itinerary showcases the region’s highlights well and covers a lot of ground — with the trade-off being somewhat limited time to explore. We visited seven ports, but often had just 3-4 hours in each, split between the included guided walking tour and time on our own. It wasn’t ideal, but almost all of the tours were led by knowledgeable and personable guides.
This made the itinerary a good primer for someone like Michael, who had never visited any of the cities, and a refresher for me, since I had been to all of them before. On the plus side, if you love sampling local wines and beers, this sailing offers opportunities to enjoy both. Here’s what we experienced:
Day 1: Cologne
We arrived in Cologne by train from Frankfort—an easy 45-minute journey from the airport station — and boarded MS Riviera Resplendence.
Day 2: Cochem
We cruised the Moselle River throughout the morning and arrived in Cochem after lunch, where we took a guided walking tour. MS Riviera Resplendence overnighted here, so guests wishing to go ashore after dinner could, but it was the World Cup Final and most stayed on board to watch the televised match.
Day 3: Touring in Trier
After an early morning departure, MS Riviera Resplendence cruised the Moselle, docking in the early afternoon in Traben-Trarbach, where we were transferred by bus to Trier for a late-afternoon walking tour and then to Bernkastel, where the ship overnighted.
Day 4: Touring Bernkastel
We enjoyed a morning walking tour of Bernkastel before we were transferred via bus back to Traben-Trarbach to rejoin the ship as it cruised to Winningen to dock and overnight.

Day 5: Koblenz
After an early morning arrival in Koblenz, where the Moselle meets the Rhine, we enjoyed a walking tour of the historic center and then had free time to explore before setting sail for Boppard, where we could explore independently upon arrival at 4:00pm.
Day 6: Scenic Rhine Cruising & Rüdesheim
Our morning was spent cruising the scenic Rhine Gorge en route to Rüdesheim, where we enjoyed an afternoon walking tour, followed by free time since the ship docked here through 3:30am.
Day 7: Cologne
We arrived back in Cologne by midday, in time for an afternoon guided walking tour and free time to shop or visit sights before a final dinner on board.
Day 8: Depart from Cologne
With our sailing complete, Michael and I departed for a post-cruise heritage visit to explore our paternal family roots.
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Our Favorite Moments On Board
There’s a lot to love about MS Riviera Resplendence, which is beautifully designed and staffed with a well-trained and personable crew. Here’s what we liked best:
The Dining.
A lot of care went into the food preparation, with some of our most memorable meals enjoyed in Mosaic. At lunch, freshly made soups and salads served buffet-style were paired with menu options such as beef Stroganoff or pasta with pistachio-basil pesto and pecorino cheese. The four-course dinner menu here focused on specialties from the Danube, Rhine, Seine, and Douro river regions, with standouts being the French onion soup, Viennese schnitzel, Reinischer sauerbraten, and the Black Forest trifle.
Our favorites from the casual lunch menu in Riverview Kitchen were the grilled halloumi & watermelon salad, crispy fish ‘n chips, and vegetarian pizza. The main Riverside restaurant had some winning dishes as well, including a Signature Dinner that featured cured salmon rosettes, quattro formaggi tortellini, a choice of Beef Wellington or vegetarian “Beet” Wellington, and a crunchy salted caramel cake.






The Rhine Gorge.
A voyage highlight was a scenic sailing through the Rhine Gorge between Boppard and Rüdesheim while Andre, our Cruise Director, offered fun and informative commentary about the 18 notable castles we passed.

Previously, I’d done this transit in the afternoon while sipping local Riesling, but a morning sailing called for caffeine and the ship’s bar staff appeared carrying trays of Rüdesheimer Coffee. A must-try, it’s made with flambéed Asbach brandy and sugar cubes combined with hot coffee and then topped with vanilla-infused whipped cream and cocoa powder.

The Extra Touches.
In addition to three meals a day, we were also treated to four o’clock High Tea as we cruised the Moselle — most guests are Brits after all — plus an afternoon ice cream buffet in the lounge while on the Rhine and a post-dinner Chocolate Tasting Extravaganza (hosted by a representative of the Schokoladenmuseum Köln, the Cologne Chocolate Museum) on our final evening onboard.
The Fantastic Crew.
The team that keeps MS Riviera Resplendence operating at full speed and its guests well-fed deserves a shout-out for their friendliness and high standard of service. We especially appreciated the convivial bar team, the efficient wait staff who juggled orders in three restaurants, and the ship’s stealth housekeepers, who kept our cabins fresh and tidy.
What Disappointed Us
There were just a few caveats to our total enjoyment of our onboard experience.
Limited Sun Deck Access.
The ship’s captain required that the Sun Deck be closed while we cruised the Moselle on days 2, 3, and 4 because of its low bridge clearances and numerous locks that keep water levels on the higher side. Therefore, all chairs, canopies, and railings were lowered out of an abundance of caution, which meant we could only enjoy passing scenery from the Panorama Lounge or the small aft and forward terraces on deck 3.
Beverage Package Omissions.
The included beverage package covers beer, wines of the day, a daily cocktail special, and a limited menu of mixed drinks and distilled spirits — which is enough to keep most guests satisfied. But if you like a pre-dinner Negroni or a glass of bourbon, you’ll pay extra. That said, the wines, most of them regional, were quite good.
The Rushed Pace in Certain Ports.
Did this itinerary offer a great overview of the Rhine & Moselle region? Definitely, but we would have loved to have had a bit more time to linger and independently explore a few of these incredible cities and towns, namely Trier, Koblenz, and Bernkastel.
Lackluster Entertainment.
While river cruising is known for low-key evenings, the entertainment on MS Riviera Resplendence was rather scant — just Freddy (a singer/pianist/DJ who was quite good), one German folklore show, and four evenings of trivia games and quizzes that weren’t as fun or as spirited as on other river sailings I’ve taken.

Our Most Memorable Port Experiences
It’s important to acknowledge again that this Rhine and Moselle rivers itinerary, while limited to a single country, is definitely ambitious. Would Michael and I have appreciated having had more daytime hours in each port? Certainly. But the time we did have was enough to see the highlights of each place — all of which were aesthetically impressive — as well as try local beer or wine, and shop for refrigerator magnets and Christmas ornaments (our preferred souvenirs).

Cochem
In Cochem, which is surrounded by terraced vineyards and dominated by the hilltop Reichsburg Castle, we followed our guide through Market Square, a colorful mosaic of 16th-to-18th-century half-timbered buildings. Then, climbing several narrow stairways we enjoyed a stellar view of the castle before we set off on our own to visit the Historische Senfmuhle Dehren, a mustard museum and store, where we sampled varieties made with the addition of Riesling, beer, figs, and other flavors. Then we headed to Weinhaus Hieronimi, whose riverfront garden was the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of Riesling made with grapes grown just a few hundred yards away.


Trier
Trier was Michael’s favorite port since he’s an architect and Germany’s oldest city — founded by the Roman emperor Augustus in 15BC — boasts several notable Roman structures. The Porta Nigra, which was built in 180AD and is the largest and best-preserved Roman-era gate north of the Alps, did not disappoint. Nor did the “newer” 13th-century High Gothic-style Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady).
But Michael most wanted to see the Aula Palatina, or Basilica of Constantine, a striking hall constructed of bricks by the Emperor Constantine in 300AD. Entering, we couldn’t help but marvel at its stark and cavernous interior, which tops out at 108 feet high and isn’t supported by a single pillar.


Bernkastel
Bernkastel proved once again that I’m a sucker for whimsical half-timbered buildings with ornamental gables that retain a fairytale-like charm more than 400 years after their construction. Particularly eye-catching were a few notably skinny ground floors since taxes in the 17th-century were based on square footage at street-level.
It was my fourth time in Koblenz, where the Rhine and Moselle meet, so the Augenroller (Eye Roller) clock, the Schängel (Spitting Boy) fountain, and the soaring statue of Kaiser Wilhelm at the Deutsches Eck (German Corner) were not new to me, but worth enjoying again. A highlight of any visit is a cable-car ride high above the Rhine to the Prussian-era Ehrenbreitstein Fortress, the second largest fortress in Europe. The panoramic views of the city and the two rivers are lovely.


Rüdesheim
Topping my list is one of the Rhine’s true gems: Rüdesheim. This wine-centric town is unabashedly touristy, but its narrow streets, of which the Drosselgasse is the most famous, are so charming that it’s easy to forgive the crowds. It’s also home to a smaller-scale gondola ride up to the hilltop Niederwald Monument, which commemorates the 1871 reunification of Germany from dozens of independent states and offers panoramic views.


Cologne
I loved that Michael and I would have two days in Cologne. On day 1, we explored independently and enjoyed a lunch of bratwurst, potato salad, and local Kölsch beer, which is served in small glasses loaded onto round trays carried by burly waiters. We did so at Brauhaus Früh am Dom, opened in 1904 and located close to the, twin-spired landmark and UNESCO World Heritage site Cologne Cathedral, which took 600 years to complete. Back in the city on day 7, we took the ship’s walking tour and then shopped a bit before again enjoying a few glasses of Kölsch, this time at Brauhaus Sion, located on a side street in Altstadt (Old Town).



Is This A Perfect Rhine & Moselle Itinerary?
Not exactly, but as a first-timer my brother enjoyed getting to experience the essence of each port — as did I, even though I had visited most of them two or three times before. All are charming, picturesque, and worth seeing.
As Michael and I bid farewell to MS Riviera Resplendence we were excited for our planned visit to Detmold, a city of 74,000 residents that not many people outside Germany have heard of — except perhaps those with the last name Heiderstadt.
Our dad and his older brother had in their retirement years traced the family genealogy in the region back to the mid-1700s, but neither of them had ever gotten a chance to visit Detmold. My brother and I would be the first in our immediate family to set foot where our great-great grandfather had lived and worked before his mid-19th-century journey across the Atlantic to the U.S.

As we drove through fields and forests, road signs appeared with town names such as Heidenoldendorf and Pivitsheide (“heide” in German means “heather” or “heath”) and Michael and I realized the origins of our family name (which translates to “city of heather”) were indeed rooted in this bucolic region.
Better still, Detmold genuinely surprised us with its ornately detailed historic buildings — many date to the 16th and 17th centuries and were not destroyed during WWII — as well as a meandering canal and the Renaissance-style Schloss Detmold, a 16th-century palace that served as the seat for the counts and princes of Lippe.
We were especially drawn to the Marktkirche (Market Church), a Protestant church built in 1504 on the town’s main market square. According to the records our dad found, it was where our great-great grandfather was baptized in 1819. The wooden floors creaked with centuries of history and its plain interior seemed apropos to Frederick’s work as a farmer and miller somewhere nearby, perhaps one of those towns with “heide” in its name.

A Final & Appropriate “Prost!” To End Our Cruise
Michael and I lingered there, breathing in its historic context. Then like any self-respecting siblings of German lineage, we headed to Strate’s Brauhaus, located in Detmold’s second-oldest half-timbered building (circa 1550), where we cooled off with a round of Detmolder beer accompanied by golden-fried schnitzel and savory bratwurst.
It was the perfect end note to a river journey that enjoyably and expeditiously allowed us to savor sips and nibbles of our shared heritage.


Interested In This Rhine & Moselle Cruise Aboard Riviera Resplendence?
Riviera Travel’s MS Riviera Resplendence offers 7-night Rhine & Moselle sailings, roundtrip from Cologne, from May to October, with cruise fares starting at as low as $1,999 per person during low-water months (July and August), and $3,099 and more in the spring and fall.
The only expenses not included are a limited number of extra-cost excursions, such as castle visits and wine tastings, cocktails that are not part of the beverage package, and crew gratuities (suggested $8-$12 per guest per day) and tips to the Cruise Director and Assistant Cruise Director.
The nearest international gateway with nonstop flights from/to the U.S. is Frankfurt, which is 45 minutes by train from Cologne.
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Interested In This Rhine & Moselle Cruise?
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HEIDI SARNA