Peter Knego Shares His Star Clipper Cruise Review — Elegance on the French Riviera

Star Clipper Cruise Review

By Peter Knego.

Cannes! The glamorous hub of filmdom’s glitterati was our starting point for a seven night voyage to Portofino, Corsica and more of the French Riviera aboard Star Clipper’s 170-guest, 2,298-gross ton Star Clipper. 

The striking Star Clipper, anchored off Cannes. * Photo: Peter Knego

Quite literally wilted after two days of traveling from our home in Southern California, we were elated to roll our luggage up to the Quai de Large, which lies at the end of a promontory on the western edge of Cannes Old Harbor.

Star Clipper’s check-in point was at the tender landing for visiting cruise ships, just past where small ferries provide regular service to the local islands.

After our documents were processed and we were given antigen tests, we began our ride out to the ship to begin our Star Clipper cruise.

As the tender sputtered off, a soothing breeze helped mitigate the relentless heat and humidity that was roasting the whole region, which was unusually hot, even for late July.

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Channeling the Clipper Ships Of Yore

Even without the magical Mediterranean backdrop, the rakish Star Clipper is a stunning 379-foot apparition with four masts (the tallest of which rises 208 feet above the sea), a dashing bowsprit and an elegant schooner stern that would be the envy of any super yacht.

As we rounded the jetty and began our approach to the swan-like ship, the tender operator offered to make a full circle around her so that I could get optimal footage. I looked back at my fellow guests, all of whom were caught up in a nice conversation, and responded with a gleeful nod. After all, no one on the boat was in a particular hurry and why miss such a great opportunity?  For me, this was a perfect way to begin the cruise.

Fresh from a stem-to-stern refit, Star Clipper was literally glistening in the afternoon sunshine and gently bobbing in the piercing blue waters of the aptly named Cote d’Azur.

For the past decade or so, she has been based in the Far East but returned to her old Mediterranean haunts this year and will cross the Atlantic to sail the Caribbean this winter.

Built in 1992 as the second in a pair of identical barquentines inspired by the square riggers of the late 19th Century (following the 1991-built Star Flyer), she carries 70 staff and crew, which gives her a respectable 2.43 guest-to-crew ratio.

And, while she has sixteen billowing sails that help propel her, she is also powered by Caterpillar diesels that ensure when there are no winds, she gets to her next destination on time.

The Tropical Bar, shown facing aft, is the center of activities on board Star Clipper. * Photo: Peter Knego

As we were making our final approach, my fellow tender guests had joined in the photo taking and once the small boat was secured secured alongside, we clambered up the gangway that delivered us to the teak-lined Main Deck promenade.

After our key cards were scanned, we were led to the semi-enclosed Tropical Bar, where hotel manager Nestor welcomed us with a refreshingly cool drink.

A Realm Of Teak & Polished Brass on the Star Clipper

Our early timing meant there was a chance to visit the Owner’s Cabin on aft Clipper Deck before it was occupied.

The Owner’s Cabin, facing port. * Photo: Peter Knego

While not as large as the balconied suites on today’s typical mega or luxury cruise ship, this 237-square-foot space is a wonderful nod to the clipper ship era with its mahogany wood tones, blue and gold soft fittings and terraced decking that conforms to the graceful form of her schooner stern.

The Owner’s Cabin has a loo with a view. * Photo: Peter Knego

As an extra bonus, the marble lined bathroom has a jacuzzi tub with its own porthole view.

Our home for the week, Category 3 stateroom 117 had a large porthole with a sea level view. * Photo: Peter Knego

Our own stateroom, #117, a 118-square-foot Category 3 on midships port Commodore Deck, actually seemed larger than it was, thanks to clever use of storage space under the bed, which accommodated both of our suitcases and a large drawer.

We had a beautifully polished brass porthole with a deadlight that could secure it in rough seas as our cabin was literally at the ship’s waterline.

Our bathroom was compact but thoughtfully designed. * Photo: Peter Knego

The Carrara marble lined bathroom was super compact with a built-in shower that was separated only by a curtain when in use. Clever angling of the floor and good ventilation assured that after using the shower, the water and moisture were quickly abated.

The loo also had plenty of room for our toiletries in addition to those provided by Star Clippers (soap, shampoo and moisturizer).

Other staterooms include 156-square-foot Category 1’s that are accessed from the open decks (reminiscent of those on old river steamers like Delta Queen) and have bathrooms with a whirlpool tub.

Category 1 staterooms feature a large brass framed window and open directly onto the promenade. * Photo: Peter Knego

At 129-square-feet, Category 2’s are slightly larger than the Category 3’s, which are pretty much the same size as but more optimally located than Categories 4 and 5s, some of the latter being larger Insides. The most economical digs, four Category 6 Insides on Commodore Deck, are a tight fit at 108-square feet and feature upper and lower berths.

We had time to unpack before the safety drill, which was held once the rest of the guests had embarked. This consisted of watching a video in the cabin, then taking the life jacket up to our muster station to try on and then get signed off by a crew member. After that, there was a chance to indulge in an afternoon snack, which consists of sandwiches, freshly baked cookies and other treats that are set up at the Tropical Bar every afternoon between 4:00 and 5:00 PM

On our cruise, there were 122 guests, who were pretty even divided between Americans, Brits, French and Germans, with eight Italians for good measure. The daily program and announcements were in English, French and German and the average demographic is between 50 and 70 years, with some younger guests sprinkled in.

That first afternoon gave us plenty of time to explore the ship, which has spectacular teak decks lined with deck chairs and a virtual sea of beautifully polished brass instruments, ropes and other nautical gear.

It should be noted that there are numerous terraces and some rigging areas that need to be traversed, which combined with the high door sills and lack of lifts, make the Star Clipper a challenging choice for those with mobility issues.

The forward pool in a forward facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

The ship has two wading pools, which are a bit unusual in that they have peek-through portholes at the bottom. The open air forward pool can be peered into from the Piano Bar and the tarp-sheltered aft pool can be viewed from the aft Clipper Deck passage, so waders might want to get a pedicure and wear only the best bathing attire since one never knows who might be peeking!

The aft pool in a forward facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

By the way, Star Clippers isn’t the first line to have pools with such a view. Sitmar Lines Australian-based Fairstar and Royal Caribbean’s first trio of ships, the Song of Norway, Nordic Prince and Sun Viking all had this feature and there are probably numerous other ships that did, as well.

The Piano Bar in an aft-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

Main Deck interior Spaces on Star Clipper include the terraced Piano Bar that has a staircase leading down to the Dining Room. The aft portion of the same bar continues as the Tropical Bar, which is sheltered under a canvas cover and is where most of the activities take place.

The Library, facing port. * Photo: Peter Knego

Directly aft of the Tropical Bar, behind a trio of elegantly arched brass window panes that look like something off the promenade deck of an early 20th Century ocean liner, the Library is a beautiful haven of wood-like surfaces, sailing ship prints and a faux marble fireplace. And, of course, it has a selection of books and DVDs in both German and English.

The Dining Room, facing aft. * Photo: Peter Knego

Located on Clipper Deck, the lovely Dining Room also looks like it could be a setting on an Edwardian ocean liner with its brass portholes, beam-lined ceilings and booths with tufted velvet seating. It can accommodate all guests at once, which means there is one leisurely open dining time for meals.

Breakfast consists of a buffet with fruits, cereals, pastries and cold cuts and there is an egg station where omelets and egg dishes are made to order. Lunch has a similar set up but with a carvery or pasta station in lieu of eggs.

A vegetarian dinner entrée. Multi-course dinners on Star Clipper include meat, fish and vegetarian options. * Photo: Peter Knego

Dinner is a full service affair with starters and salads, soups, main courses and desserts. Wines, beer, alcohol, soft drinks and specialty coffees are not included but are reasonably priced.  There is also a filtered water filling station at the Tropical Bar for those who opt to bring a refillable water bottle.

Directly aft of the Dining Room, the Clipper Shop offers up sundries and souvenirs and adjoins the Purser’s Office. And that pretty much sums up the public spaces on the Star Clipper.

And the Star Clipper Sailed On!

After dinner, gregarious, multi-lingual cruise director Carlos announced that we should head up to the open decks. It turns out there was an international fireworks competition and we were the lucky benefactors.

Fireworks over Cannes on the first night. * Photo: Peter Knego

It would have been enough just to see Cannes all lit up but when the brilliant fireworks shot into the sky,  they illuminated a flotilla of small craft and yachts that surrounded us. It was easy to envision Cary Grant and Grace Kelly in that scene on the rooftop of Cannes famed Carlton Hotel in Alfred Hitchcock’s “To Catch A Thief” but I’d have to say that our display even put those to shame.

It was a spectacular send off for our cruise, which was followed by a cacophony of boat horns in salute.

The next morning, we awoke as Star Clipper was caressing the shores of Genoa as she neared Portofino.

In what would become our daily routine, we beelined to the Piano Bar, where mixologist Alejandro steamed up a pair of frothy cappuccinos ($2.50 each).

The captain introduces the Star Clipper’s staff and crew in the Tropical Bar. * Photo: Peter Knego

After breakfast, there was a second safety drill, followed by the introduction of the officers, staff and crew in the Tropical Bar.

View from the “sprit” with Star Clipper underway. * Photo: Peter Knego

Before lunch, we had our first chance to climb into the bowsprit net for a short dangle over the surging seas. I clutched tightly to my i-Phone and did my best to get some spectacular footage.

Of the three major sailing cruise ship lines (Windstar, Sea Cloud and Star Clippers), Star Clippers is the only one to offer up the chance to climb the mast and dangle in the net.

On prior cruises aboard Royal Clipper and Star Flyer, I saw dolphins frolicking in the “bone,” the white foam created by the ship cutting through the sea, which in nautical lore is likened to a dog “with a bone in its teeth”.

The colorful stuccoes of Portofino. * Photo: Peter Knego

As we finished lunch, Star Clipper was anchoring off Portofino.  The prior eve, we had signed up for an excursion that was to begin with a short ferry ride to San Frutuoso, a tiny hamlet on the back side of the Portofino peninsula, followed by a three mile hike back to Portofino.

Curiously, none of the excursions were promoted, with the result being that none received the minimum amount of guests needed, so all were eventually canceled.

We tendered ashore in the brilliant sunshine as the Ligurian coast unfolded before us with the gorgeous hamlets of Santa Margherita, Rappallo, Cinque Terre and La Spezia, backed by the rugged, forested peaks of the Apennine Mountains and scattered, dramatic cloud formations.

In all my travels, I don’t think I’ve found any place on earth more enchanting than Liguria.

Approaching tiny San Frutuosso. * Photo: Peter Knego

Since we had an eight hour call, we were were comfortable with taking the ferry to San Frutuosso and doing the hike on our own, joining two fellow guests with the same plan, Carl and Jenn, who are from San Diego.

It was a gorgeous day, although far too hot, making the hike a bit more work than it would have been under normal circumstances but the views and experience were thrilling. We encountered wild goats, several lizards and thousands of cicadas, which we couldn’t actually see, although their rhythmic buzzing was akin to a 1950s sci fi movie soundtrack.

Mid-hike with Mike, Jenn and Carl atop the Portofino peninsula. * Photo: Peter Knego

Once on the Portofino side, we zig zagged down through private farms with crops of eggplant, tomatoes and red bell peppers. As beautiful as it all was, by the time we reached Portofino, I was content hopping on the first tender and heading straight back to the Star Clipper’s soothing air conditioning.

Author Peter Knego enjoying the coolness of the piano lounge. * Photo: Peter Knego

Conquest Of Corsica on our Star Clipper Cruise

After dinner, we were up on deck to witness the sails being raised to the strains of Vangelis’ “1492: Conquest of Paradise,” which is played every time the ship departs.

From the fantail to the sails and stars aboard Star Clipper. * Photo: Peter Knego

The lights of Liguria gradually vanished in our wake as that long bow pointed south towards Corsica.

Corsica ahead! * Photo: Peter Knego

The following morning, after our cappuccinos and breakfast, my partner Mike signed up for the mast climbing, which entails scaling a rope ladder (in a safety harness) to the crow’s nest platform on the foremast, some fifty feet above the deck.  Alas, Mike was #17 on the list, so his chance would have to come later in the cruise.

I stole away for some quiet time in the bowsprit net but the relentless sun intervened, so I grabbed my book (“Spells and Oregano,” a ghostly novel that takes place on the Queen Mary by Patricia Davis) and headed to the air conditioned Library, settling in with a nice, quiet read as the smoke-fringed mountains of Corsica grew closer and closer. Corsica, like my home state of California, is prone to fires in the summer, especially when the heat index is high.

During lunch, we watched the pilot come alongside and by the time we exited the Dining Room, we were tied up at the port of L’Ile Rousse. Mike and I collected beach towels from the pool area and took them in a small cloth bag we brought along with our refillable water canisters (definitely two things to pack for a Star Clippers cruise).

Conveniently, there was a nice beach about a half mile’s walk from the terminal.

The beach at L’Ile Rousse, Corsica. * Photo: Peter Knego

It felt strange to swim in crystal clear waters that were as warm or warmer than our pool, which is usually around 86 degrees! On the way back to the ship, we detoured through the town, past friendly cafes and shops.

Poised and magnificent, the Star Clipper struts her sails off Corsica. * Photo: Peter Knego

As Star Clipper began maneuvering away from L’Ile Rousse, the captain announced that the tenders would be launched so guests could take photos of the ship with her sails raised. Within moments, everyone was scrambling into those two small craft, which followed Star Clipper out to sea, doing their best to provide everyone with the chance to capture the beautiful barquentine in her full regalia.

Needless to say, with the boats spinning around all the while trying to avoid running into each other, the opportunities were fleeting but overall, it was a thrill for anyone with the slightest appreciation for sailing ships. Towards the end of the outing, several members of the staff and crew posed atop the bowsprit, which was quite a feat with the ship in motion.

That night, there was a lively music quiz in the Tropical Bar, which ended in Elvis-style dance maneuvers from the more lively participants.

Morning light shines on the Star Clipper’s helm. * Photo: Peter Knego

For some reason, I was up far too early on the fourth morning as Star Clipper meandered the short distance between L’Ile Rousse and our next port of call, Calvi.  Instead of trying fruitlessly to sleep, I took advantage of something the captain had mentioned earlier in the cruise.

He suggested everyone get up early at least once to just savor the ship in the morning light, which is exactly what I did.

With a slight breeze and the sun not yet at its full intensity, it was lovely to marvel at the the polished brass instruments, the towering masts and all the lines and ropes that make up the rigging.

With only a handful of fellow guests out — mainly on the stern doing yoga — I felt as though I had the ship to myself.

The citadel at Calvi. * Photo: Peter Knego

In gorgeous Calvi, we tendered ashore and walked up a loose spiral of roads to the citadel, which was built in the 13th century by the Genoese. The views were beautiful but the aromas of Corsican cuisine drove us to distraction and eventually, digestion.

Pizza perfection in Calvi. * Photo: Mike Masino

Instead of heading back to the ship for lunch, we stopped at a friendly cafe and ordered a spectacular pizza margherita that we doused with freshly grated Parmesan and spicy Corsican chili oil that was heaven on earth.

Tendering back to Star Clipper at Calvi. * Photo: Mike Masino

Once aboard the ship, I quickly donned running shoes and tendered back ashore for a 2.5 mile run along the waterfront and local beach.

It really was too hot to run but I made up for that later by jumping off the tender platform for a swim alongside the ship.

Meanwhile, while the staff had the Star Clipper’s “toys” out, which included parasails, kayaks and tiny one man sailing boats, Mike manned one of the latter and maneuvered it around the small bay.

Mike begins his mast climb. * Photo: Peter Knego

Later, Mike finally got his chance to climb the mast, where he took some spectacular photos from that 50-foot vantage while I was perfectly content waving up from the deck.

Crow’s Nest vantage.  * Photo: Mike Masino

It was Pirate Night and some in-the-know guests attended dinner with hook hands, bandanas and other pirate gear.

After that, there was a big celebration in the Tropical Bar but I was happy just gazing up at the billowing sails under the brilliant stars.

Prismatic sunset through our dining room porthole. * Photo: Peter Knego

Our third Corsican call was at remote Plage Saint Antoine, which we were told is only accessible by the sea or a mountain hike. The tender did an expedition-style beach landing, allowing us to climb or jump off the bow between the small wave surges.

We donned our snorkeling gear once again but what impressed was not a sunken forest of sea life and coral formations, but the gorgeous coral colored sands that formed wavy patterns on the embankment.

After an hour or two, we were happy to escape the heatwave and head back to the ship to revel in the air conditioning.

The coral colored beach sand. * Photo: Peter Knego

Riviera Reflections of our Star Clipper Cruise

A very mellow afternoon followed as Star Clipper began her northbound trek, leaving friendly Corsica in her wake.

The evening event was a dramatic lighting of the sails with live and recorded music under the stars.

Moon over the Ligurian Sea. * Photo: Peter Knego

The following morning, the ship was dropping anchor once again, this time off of Cavalaire Sur Mer, a pleasant and welcoming French Riviera town with a nice beach that we ran along. Yet again, after 2.5 miles of sweltering heat, we were content with riding back to the ship and jumping into the sea from the tender platform.

Running along Cavalaire Sur Mer. * Photo: Peter Knego

Mike took another ride on the single person sail boat while I got some invigorating exercise swimming against the rather strong current.

Afterwards, I settled in on one of the deck chairs by the fantail, watching as the winds whipped at the large Maltese flag as Star Clipper very slowly maneuvered towards our next port of call, Plage Pampelonne, which was but a few short miles away.

Dining Room staff get their turn in the talent show. * Photo: Peter Knego

After dinner, there was a talent show in the Tropical Bar. The high spirited romp included singing, dancing and even magic tricks from the deck crew, the waiters and several brave guests.

At Plage Pampelonne, where the waters were almost cyan in their intensity, the tenders made beach landings.

Soaking up the sun and sails at Plage Pampelonne. * Photo: Peter Knego

This beautiful slice of sand is just around the peninsula from and a perfect prelude to our afternoon visit to Saint Tropez. I so enjoyed that last chance to swim on the cruise.

Late that morning, Star Clipper made the short trip to the anchorage off Saint Tropez, where we once again tendered ashore.

Saint Tropez marina. * Photo: Peter Knego

I had low expectations and frankly thought I would dislike the legendary town’s perceived excesses of huge yachts, expensive boutiques and pricey cafes.

And while those elements are indeed part of the Saint Tropez experience, overall, I was utterly charmed with the place.

One last pose in the golden light off Saint Tropez. * Photo: Peter Knego

Nestled below the rugged Maures Mountains and overlooking the azure Med, Saint Tropez’s pastel stucco facades, quaint marina and narrow cobblestone streets were a treat to explore.

On the last morning, we enjoyed a nice final breakfast, said a few goodbyes and tendered ashore. Cannes was sweltering but oh, so beautiful as we rolled our luggage off to the hotel.

Once free of the suitcases, we spent the rest of the day exploring the village and its charming cafes, shops and restaurants.

That afternoon as we walked along La Croisette, Cannes famed beachfront boulevard, we spotted the Star Clipper anchored in the outer harbor.

Basking off Cannes. * Photo: Peter Knego

She looked so very stately in the distance and if our time aboard was any indication, her new complement of guests were in for a magical, memorable voyage.

VIDEO: Enjoy Peter’s video overview of his Star Clipper cruise review, below!

RELATED: Heidi reviews her Star Clippers’ Greek Isles cruise with her kids.

RELATED: Check out Peter’s cool website, MidShipCentury.com.

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