Magna Carta Thames River Cruise Review
By Heidi Sarna
Walking off the 8-passenger hotel barge Magna Carta, from its Thames River mooring at the edge of lush woodlands that envelop the Cliveden House estate in the Berkshire hills, we set off on a short uphill trek through the forest. We soon reached a clearing with views all around us of the enchanting English countryside as the wind rustled the trees and birds chirped in the crisp morning air.
Another day on our weeklong Magna Carta cruise, we rounded one of the Thames’ many curves and saw Windsor Castle suddenly in our view. It was surreal! Dating back nearly 1,000 years, the historic Windsor complex was practically in our laps. With our barge moored almost in its shadow, it was a short walk there for touring.
Later in the week came historic Tudor-era Hampton Court, the Thames riverside playground of Henry VIII and his wives in the 16th century. Magna Carta often moors right at the edge of the property so passengers can walk directly into the estate for their tours.
Unfolding like a ribbon tossed on an old map, the narrow snaking Thames River is flanked by many historic places like these. It’s an ideal waterway for small-ship cruising; whether you’re exploring on shore or relaxing on board watching England, old and new, float by.
The Daily Rhythm Of A Thames River Cruise On Magna Carta
We cruised for several hours each day (always mooring overnight), covering about 40 miles over the course of a week in early May. A backdrop of forests, distant turrets, and country estates as well as cozy cottages and modern homes set the stage for the supporting actors — rowers gracefully slicing their narrow boats through the river and friends of our captain, Dominic (who goes by Dom), waving and calling out greetings from shore.
The extras in this bucolic scene, whether cruising or moored, were trails of adorable ducklings furiously paddling to keep up with their parents, statuesque swans nosing about and honking geese.
Relaxing on the Sun Deck of the Barge Magna Carta
While cruising, some folks sat inside on couches in the lounge reading and enjoying the views through large windows, while others like me preferred hanging outside on deck, enjoying the brisk, invigorating spring air. Blankets were provided and my cruising partner, Debbie, would stake her claim each afternoon on a classic wooden chaise lounge by the railing, all cozy and wrapped up, knitting, napping or sipping a Prosecco as she took in the English landscape.
I loved standing at the railing, moving up and down the short set of stairs to the foredeck to get some steps in taking it all in as the melodic ripple of water from landing waterfowl harmonized with the lapping of wavelets as the Magna Carta slowly motored along the Thames. I, and another passenger, soaked in the hot tub once or twice, reveling in the novelty of doing so while the English countryside slid past.
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As serene as it was much of the time, we could often see and hear aircraft overhead as we were never that far from Heathrow, one of the world’s busiest airports. And a few times the Thames skirted near busy roads for a moment, reminding us how close we were to greater London.
Mostly, though, the landscape along the Thames varies from forest and farmland to close-up views of multi-million-dollar homes old and new with spacious lawns and private moorings to more modest dwellings, camper parks and lots of houseboats, narrow boats, motorboats and other craft tied up along the way, parked like cars in a driveway. At times it felt like we were passing through residents’ backyards.
Occasionally, Captain Dom or Cruise Director KT would come to the outside deck and point out notable sights, like the 1,000-year-old village of Hurley, historic Runnymede where the Magna Carta was signed, and David Gilmore’s (of Pink Floyd fame) barge studio, Astoria, tied up along the riverbanks.
Locks, Bridges & Weirs On A Magna Carta Thames River Cruise
Along the way the Magna Carta would slide under bridges, some centuries old; I imagined the old Thames barges of the 19th century with their retractable masts and red sails squeezing under bridges like this, crammed with the cargo of the day — bricks, beer, cement, sand, gundpowder, grain and rubbish.
VIDEO: Below, we passed under one of the River Thames' many bridges.
We also passed through a total of 16 locks over the week; some were operated by lock keepers and others required Dom, KT or another crew member to work buttons to open and close the lock gates. Once in the chamber, Magna Carta crew would tie up the barge to bollards along the edges to hold us steady as the chamber filled (or drained) with water so that the gates on the far side could be opened and we could be on our way.
While locks enable boats to move up or down the snaking Thames smoothly (like elevators, eliminating the challenges of struggling to drive the barge “downhill” or “uphill”), the adjacent weirs act as barriers to dam the water, working in conjunction with the locks.
VIDEO: Below, the Magna Carta passes though two of the 16 locks along the way.
The Touring Routine
Each day we spent three to four hours touring a historical site or two, some within walking distance of our mooring — such as Windsor Castle — and others about an hour’s drive away — Oxford and Highclere.
Our charming tour guide for the week, Sarah-Jayne (called SJ) was also our driver, transporting us in a luxury mini-van, which seated all eight passengers with nary an inch to spare. She met us on day one at the elegant Stafford Hotel in central London (where two couples in our group had stayed for a few nights prior), hosting our group at a lovely, get-acquainted High Tea before driving us to the Magna Carta.
For our daily excursions, SJ facilitated entry and often set us up with self-guided headsets. Other times, she shared interesting background about the site, guiding us through with a thespian’s flair.
Our Thames River Magna Carta Barge Cruise Itinerary
Our 6-night Thames River “Classic Cruise” itinerary is offered in both directions, between Henley on Thames (an hour’s drive due west of central London) and ending near Hampton Court Palace (closer to London), passing through 16 locks along the way.
- Sunday – Embark at Henley-on-Thames (about 40 miles due west of the Stafford Hotel in Central London)
- Monday – Oxford
- Tuesday – Highclere Castle
- Wednesday – Cliveden
- Thursday – Windsor
- Friday – Hampton Court
- Saturday – Disembark from our mooring near Hampton Court, for taxis to the airport or train station (included)
Crew & Service Aboard Magna Carta
On a barge cruise, given the intimate surroundings and small number of passengers and crew, a convivial family-like vibe typically takes hold from the start. Our group of eight passengers was a friendly, well-traveled mix of Americans and Australians, mostly retired in their 70s and early 80s. They were relatively fit, energetic and active (enough to be able to navigate the barge’s stairs). In fact, one sporty Aussie whose nickname was Chips, went on long runs most days, impressing us all with his fitness and energy.
Magna Carta’s crew was friendly and hardworking, from the charming task-masker SJ to the fun and highly competent chef Tom and a pair of hostesses who served our meals and drinks and also serviced our cabins each day. As on most barges, the crew wore many hats. For instance, the hostesses, and occasionally the chef, too, filled in when needed as a captain’s mate, throwing ropes around cleats when going through locks.
Many barges are owner-operated, including Magna Carta, and so it’s like you’re a guest in their home, hanging out in their living room and enjoying their great food. You’ll get a behind-the-scenes look at what it takes to run a small business.
Magna Carta’s friendly co-owner and captain, Dominic (Dom), has been driving the barge on this Thames River route for some 25 years, since he bought the 1936-built former Dutch cargo barge. He and a partner purchased the former gravel and sand barge in The Netherlands, gutted it, rebuilt it as a hotel barge and then navigated the flat-bottomed vessel through the North Sea (no easy feat!) to the Thames, where it has remained ever since.
Dom runs the business with his wife, KT, who’s officially the cruise director, managing much of the operations. It varies barge to barge: some owner-operators maintain a more formal dynamic with guests, while others, like Magna Carta’s, are casual and invite you into their world right away.
It didn’t take long to hear about Dom and KT’s young son and who would be picking him up from pre-school and who had to rush home to make dinner. The door between the lounge and the galley was like a stage prop, swinging open countless times a day, often with KT or Dom bidding farewell as they hurried off the boat. (Like many owner-operators, they don’t live on the barge and come aboard each day to work; the hostesses, chef and first-mate sleep on board and are always available if passengers need something.)
As one passenger told me, it was all a bit too casual for her at times; she would have preferred hearing less about child-care routines and more details about the river and destinations.
Food & Wine Aboard Hotel Barge Magna Carta
One of the main reasons to take a barge cruise is the food and wine, and Magna Carta didn’t disappoint. Just ask my scale; I gained five pounds by the end of the week!
It started before we even got to the barge, with high tea at the Stafford Hotel, featuring tiers of beautiful cakes, scones and delicate finger sandwiches.
Once on board, chef Tom was very accommodating and engaging, generous with a smile and self-deprecating one-liners. At the start of the week, besides taking note of any dietary concerns, he asked what was on our culinary wish list. I wanted Dover Sole, and others requested Yorkshire pudding, Shepherd’s pie, baked Alaska and English wine — all eventually granted.
All lunches and dinners on this Thames River Magna Carta barge cruise were served at one table in the salon; Chef Tom would come out of the galley each time to briefly describe his creations. We were served a main course and dessert for lunch, and three courses for dinner. Both mealtimes included warm fresh bread, which I found hard to resist; two featured wines (which I also found hard to resist!), mostly from Italy, France and Germany; and delicious desserts the likes of a rhubarb trifle and a chocolate brûlée with cherry compote (which again I found, yes, impossible to resist!), and homemade ice-creams and sorbets with flavors including Earl Grey, raspberry and peanut butter. Twice during the week, we were treated to a generous cheese course at lunch.
My favorites were chicken Kiev with peas and broad beans and wild garlic puree; beet Wellington (I don’t eat beef so chef Tom made me a delicious version with beets!); and also a hake fish with charred leeks and cider butter sauce. Lamb and duck also were on the menu throughout the week. The food was delicious but sometimes I secretly longed for a big salad, which would have been nice at lunch sometimes (on a French canal cruise I took, lunches were buffet-style and always featured several salads).
The breakfast spread at the center of the table featured yogurts, berries and freshly baked croissants and pastries; you could also order eggs any way you like, along with toast and bacon. Coffees were served from a Keurig machine.
Whether serving meals or drinks on deck, the hostesses were super friendly and eager to please (even if they didn’t know all that much about wine, they earnestly repeated memorized lines about each bottles’ notes and hints; KT was very knowledgeable and introduced the wine a few times).
After dinner, which often lingered as our chatty group enjoyed the wine and exchanging travel stories, some walked a few steps to the couches for “one more” — often a Baileys on the rocks — and the others ambled down to the cabins, tucked in by 9:30 or 10pm each evening.
Cabins & Common Areas Of Magna Carta
There are two decks, with Magna Carta’s four double ensuite cabins on the lower level, down a flight of stairs. Each was named after a major figure in English history — ours was Henry VIII and featured prints of him and some of his wives. The décor centered around navy blues and dark woods and had a grandmother’s attic vibe. Quite roomy for barge cabins, there was plenty of space to maneuver, and we had a chair, dresser and several closets; much of the storage space went unused during our stay.
Our spotlessly clean bathroom had a large shower with glass doors, heated towel racks and ample storage space above the sink. There was air conditioning as well as under-floor heating, which we didn’t need on this early May cruise.
VIDEO: Below is a quick tour of Heidi's roomy Henry VIII cabin and bathroom.
Upstairs, the Magna Carta’s main hub was the indoor lounge and dining area, a bright space with large windows and homey, if a bit uninspired, décor in blues and wood tones. Passengers sat here, amidst some bookshelves, to read and scroll through their phones when the WiFI was strong and enjoy pre- and post-dinner tipples.
VIDEO: Below is a quick video tour of the interior public area of Magna Carta.
The small outdoor deck area was my favorite place while Magna Carta was cruising; I enjoyed watching the scenery unfold while sipping mint tea. Another passenger, Chips, would take out his sketch pad from time to time, while my friend Debbie brought her knitting and enjoyed that on deck (when she wasn't sipping a Prosecco or taking an afternoon snooze).
There were padded wood deck chairs as well as a table (which was never used for dining during my cruise, but apparently is during warmer weather), making the space fairly tight (in part, because room was a made for a hot tub, bring your swimming suit!). It was a lovely perch and where I gravitated to on this Thames River Magna Carta barge cruise.
VIDEO: Below, sliding under bridges over the Thames was always great fun!
Nice Touches & Caveats Too
In the spirit of the little things mattering, I really loved:
- The elegant High Tea at the Stafford was a nice ice breaker for our group.
- Our cabin and bathroom windows were kept spotlessly clean.
- As cabins were mostly below water level, I could see swans and ducks swimming at eye level through the small windows at the top of the rooms— very cool!
- Captain Dominic having lunch with us one day and also taking us to a local pub for a pint on another, happily answering questions and sharing details about his life as a barge owner-operator-captain. “Barge people are all weird!” he joked.
- Food preferences were accommodated and encouraged.
- There was a nice balance between excursion time ashore and relaxation time aboard.
If I’m being nitpicky:
- Magna Carta's living room couches were a bit small and oddly shaped (the arms sloped inward creating less space to sit).
- I would have liked if walking and cycling opportunities were promoted and encouraged more (cycles are carried on board for passengers' use); ideally, the crew would have offered suggestions the evening before so we could work them into our day. I did ask to cycle several times and was able to do so only once, getting off at a lock a few miles before Windsor, where we rejoined the barge.
- It would have been nice to have brewed coffee at breakfast, not just the pods that came from the buzzing Keurig machine.
- WiFi worked at times but was almost non-existent at others, especially in the cabins, as KT informed us at the start (It was sort of a pro, too, as it was nice to put our phones down for a change!).
Thames River Cruise Excursion Highlights
I thoroughly enjoyed the daily outings, each brimming with history and intrigue. My favorite excursions on this Thames River Magna Carta barge cruise were to the University of Oxford, touring 16th-century Christ Church College; centuries-old Highclere Castle; and Medieval-era Hampton Court Palace.
Oxford
After an hour’s drive in the luxury maxi-van, SJ set us up for a fascinating tour of Oxford, focusing on beautiful Christ Church, Oxford University’s grandest college. Oxford comprises many schools, the oldest dating back to the 13th century.
We learned that Christ Church was founded in 1525 by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey and initially was called Cardinal College until King Henry VIII got involved and renamed it.
Christ Church's majestic architecture reflects a mix of Gothic and Renaissance influences; we were awed by the imposing Tom Tower (designed by Sir Christopher Wren in the late 1600s) and the massive quad.
Tourists are allowed to explore quite a bit of the campus, though certain areas are off-limits to respect the students and staff working there. It was cool to see them going about their daily routines, many students clad in the iconic black hooded capes (red for doctoral students!) worn for centuries during examination periods and various ceremonies.
Other highlights included the Christ Church Cathedral, which is also the college chapel and one of the oldest buildings in Oxford, with its beautiful stained-glass windows dating back to the 14th century.
The other must-see is the breathtaking Great Hall, with its hammerbeam ceiling and long wooden tables — the inspiration for Hogwarts dining hall in the Harry Potter films. It's not surprising that Oxford’s magical surroundings also inspired Oxford math professor and author Lewis Carroll (his real name was Charles Lutwidge Dodgson) to write Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland in the 19th century.
Highclere Castle
I was taken aback walking across the sprawling, well-manicured lawns toward the imposing mansion, made world-famous as the filming location for Downton Abbey.
Even if you’re not a fan of the show, Highclere Castle in the heart of Hampshire is an impressive example of Jacobethan and Italianate architecture perfectly poised on a hilltop setting amidst beautiful English countryside.
Originally built in the 17th century, the current house was designed in the 1830s by Victorian architect Sir Charles Barry, who also co-designed the Houses of Parliament.
Sarah procured headsets for us as usual for a self-guided audio tour. We admired the grand double staircase and opulent state rooms, along with the sweeping vistas across the grounds and gardens, dramatically illustrating what British aristocratic life is all about.
The Carnarvon family has owned Highclere since 1679. A few generations back, it was the 5th Earl of Carnarvon who financed Egyptologist Howard Carter; together, they discovered the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1922 — and some treasures from that expedition are on display in the basement of Highclere!
Cliveden
We tied up at the edge of this leafy hamlet for an afternoon and overnight — a perfect mooring spot.
Before touring Cliveden House, perched scenically above the River Thames, my friend and I enjoyed a tranquil walk through the estate’s enchanting woodlands. We emerged at a bluff with sweeping views of the Thames and distant hillocks dotted with sheep and farmhouses, set against a patchwork quilt of emerald green and golden farmland. Afterward, we admired Cliveden’s richly furnished interiors adorned with paintings, tapestries, and portraits.
Currently operating as a hotel as well as a tourist attraction, Cliveden House, is steeped in centuries of drama and glamour. Built in the 1600s by the 2nd Duke of Buckingham for his mistress, the house was later rebuilt in the mid 19th-century in the Italianate style by architect Charles Barry (of Highclere and Parliament House fame).
With its sandstone terraces, ornate balustrades, and formal gardens, it’s easy to see why stunning Cliveden has hosted everyone from Queen Victoria to Meghan Markle, who spent the night here before her wedding.
Cliveden’s storied past includes being home to the Astor family for many decades (from 1893 to when they gifted it to the National Trust in the mid-20th century), who hosted extravagant parties for the world’s rich and famous. In the 1960s, Cliveden was also the setting of a salacious political scandal, the infamous Profumo Affair, when a top British politician and a teenager first cavorted by Cliveden’s pool.
Windsor
En route to Windsor, we cruised past Runnymede, where the Magna Carta (or Great Charter) was signed by King John in 1215, effectively laying the foundation for individual rights and freedom by forcing the monarchy to loosen its grip.
One of the most famous sights in all of England, Windsor Castle was originally built by William the Conqueror nearly 1,000 years ago as a fortress. Since the reign of Henry I in the 12th century, it has been used by every monarch as a royal residence — making it the longest-occupied palace in Europe.
It remains one of the UK’s top tourist attractions, and SJ expertly hustled us to the right queues to get our pre-arranged tickets and audio headsets, to join the throngs of other visitors.
We toured the lavish 19th-century State Apartments adorned with paintings by Van Dyck, Rubens, and Rembrandt. We also had a look at Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House, a miniature architectural marvel built in the 1920s with electric lighting, running water, and tiny books written by real authors.
Some of our group ventured toward the opulent 15th-century St George’s Chapel, the resting place of monarchs like Henry VIII and Elizabeth II. However, on the day we were there, the queues were so long and thick that my friend and I (both with claustrophobic tendencies) opted for a stroll around town instead, heading for a drink at the centuries-old Two Brewers Pub, where SJ works during the off-season. It was too early for a pint and we were the only patrons, but we enjoyed our refreshing sodas and imagined the place would be fun once it got going later in the day.
Hampton Court
Set along the Thames River, Hampton Court Palace dates back to the early 1500s when it was first constructed by Cardinal Thomas Wolsey. Soon after, Henry VIII (and his many wives!) entered the scene and transformed Hampton Court into one of the most lavish royal residences in England. The Tudor brick façade, with its intricate chimneys and grand gatehouse, still conveys the drama and power of that era.
By the late 1600s, William III (William of Orange) and Mary II took the throne and commissioned Sir Christopher Wren to build a Baroque palace at Hampton Court. Today, you can see the conflation of many different architectural styles.
We lucked out with our visit: with few other tourists there, we had the place nearly to ourselves. We took a self-guided audio tour through the massive Tudor kitchens, which once served up meals for over 600 courtiers a day.
SJ then led us through Henry VIII’s apartments, where she regaled us with lively tales of his six wives and the court intrigues that helped shape the course of British history.
Other highlights were the Royal Chapel with its soaring vaulted ceiling and beautiful 16th-century altarpiece, and Hampton Courts’ gardens, including the Great Vine planted in 1768 during the reign of George III that still produces sweet black grapes harvested each year.
Quick Facts
All Inclusive: Fares for this barge cruise on the River Thames cover all meals, wine and drinks, guided excursions including all tickets, and transfers to and from London. Tipping is not included (5%-10% of the fare price suggested).
Cost: Magna Carta fares start at $6,550 USD per person (for 2025 cruises) and $6,790 USD per person (for 2026 dates); full charter rates are also available and start at $49,500 USD for groups of eight. Barge make excellent private charters! For more booking details, please go to form below, at end of our review.
Season: April through October (minus a few weeks the Magna Carta crew takes a break).
Packing: Wondering what to pack for a barge cruise? Here are Heidi's expert barge packing tips.
London Stay: If you can, definitely spend a few days in London before or after your cruise. There is much to see in this ancient city, whose origins date back to Roman times. Highlights for us were walking everywhere — from Kensington Palace to Bayswater, St James, Buckingham Palace and all over Hyde Park — and signing up for a guided bicycle tour with The London Bicycle Tour Company and a historic pub crawl with Liquid History Tours. Here's a review of this tour by QuirkyCruise Contributor Paige Okun. We also took a day trip to Stratford-Upon-Avon, walking to the small, unassuming Holy Trinity Church to see where the bard William Shakespeare was laid to reset in 1616.
Hope You Enjoyed My Magna Carta Thames River Cruise Review
This was a cruise holiday where you didn’t need to do much thinking. Just eat, drink, sleep, relax, tour, repeat. Overall, it was wonderful, and I highly recommend this Thames River Magna Carta barge cruise as a great way to get an intimate view of southeastern England, all the while being wined and dined aboard a charming and very comfortable floating hotel for the week.
Yes, barge cruises are pricey, but if you can afford it, for history buffs, Anglophiles and anyone who can appreciate a cushy ride through the English countryside and the history-soaked outskirts of London without the muss and fuss of car and train travel, then the Magna Carta is a great holiday.
This was my second barge cruise (my first was in France board the 12-pax Luciole along the Nivernais Canal) and it’s reinforced how I love everything about this mode of travel.
Looking forward to a third barge canal cruise soon!
Interested In This Barge Cruise?
Experts in barge cruising for more than 50 years, European Waterways offers luxury hotel barge cruises in nine European countries, from the River Thames in England to the Midi in Southern France and the Scottish Highlands. The European Waterways barge fleet has vessels accommodating from six to 20 passengers with cabin sizes varying from cozy and compact to ultra-deluxe staterooms comparable to top hotel rooms.
European Waterways can help you choose the best canal barge cruise for your next dream vacation. Remember, barge cruises are super convenient; you won't have to lift a finger! Pricing is all-inclusive, covering all meals, wine and spirits, guided excursions and entry fees, and transfers to/from a central point (for example, Paris).
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HEIDI SARNA
