Lindblad Galapagos Expedition Cruise, Part 1
By Peter Knego
One place that has always intrigued but somehow eluded me, at least until this past September, is the Galapagos.
The author midway through his recent Galapagos expedition at the wind swept lookout on Bartholomé Island. * Photo: Peter Knego
Before then, I knew little about the archipelago, other than it is home to numerous unique species of plants and animals, that it is protected and, of course, that years after his visit, Charles Darwin wrote his “On The Origin Of Species,” which would foster the modern theory of Evolution.
The anticipation of a new adventure. * Photo: Peter Knego
When I received the invite to join Lindblad Expedition’s National Geographic Endeavour II on a nine-night Galapagos expedition, after the initial joy of anticipating a new adventure, I had some concerns about the heat, humidity and insects that are part and parcel with visits to equatorial regions.
After nine trips to India and time spent in places like Singapore, Panama, Cambodia and the Marquesas, my tolerance for wilting under layers of sunblock and bug spray was limited, at best.
Galapagos cruising in the “cool” season
Luckily, our sailing was during the “cool season” (between June and November when temperatures range between 70 and 80 degrees). However, in exchange for the pleasant, drier climes, the ocean temperature is a rather invigorating 65 to 72 degrees.
For me, this was a small price to pay for relatively bug free, comfortable weather that is very much like what I grew up with in Southern California.
As our Avianca 737 began its descent through a cluster of mysterious, low lying clouds to the small airport on San Cristobal Island, some 600 miles west of Ecuador, I had my first glance of our floating “home” for the next week.
Perhaps only a few hard core ship enthusiasts remember the red-hulled Lindblad Explorer, the first purpose built expedition ship.
Lindblad Cruises pioneering, 1969-built expedition ship, the Lindblad Explorer.
To my eye, the handsome National Geographic Endeavour II has similar proportions and her rebuilt funnel appears to be a nod to that first Lindblad ship.
The National Geographic Endeavour II was actually built for Cruceros Australis as the Via Australis in 2005. * Photo: Peter Knego
The 2,716 gt 96-guest Endeavour II was the Patagonian cruise ship Via Australis and completely rebuilt to a tune of $10 million in 2016 for Lindblad Expeditions.
Our initial approach to the handsome National Geographic Endeavour II at San Cristobal, is captured below.
Within an hour of deplaning, we were donning life vests and clambering into a zodiac at San Cristobal’s harbor, making a speedy approach to the Endeavour II and circling around her stern.
Once aboard, I worked quickly to photograph the various categories of accommodations before the full complement of guests (only about 50 on this special sailing) embarked.
Checking out the staterooms on our Lindblad Galapagos expedition cruise
All of the ship’s cabins are outside and most (categories 1— 4, depending on location) are similarly laid out with a queen or two twin beds, a desk area, a picture window and a bathroom with shower.
The top accommodation on National Geographic Endeavour II is Suite C, aka Stateroom 415, with its separate sitting area and bedroom. * Photo: Peter Knego
The next most luxurious staterooms, two Suites B have floor to ceiling windows while Suite A (320 — shown here) has two picture windows. * Photo: Peter Knego
Of the top tier accommodations, Suite A has two windows, a larger bath, an arm chair and more space. Two Suite B’s have two floor to ceiling windows, while Suite C, the largest on the ship, has a separate sitting area with a convertible sofa and a pair of arm chairs.
We would be occupying cabin 409, a Category 4, which was directly aft of the bridge on the port side and conveniently across from the forward staircase.
It was fitted with a queen bed (convertible to two twins), plenty of hooks to hang clothes and gear on, an ample closet and the bed was thankfully tall enough to accommodate our suitcases underneath.
Category 4 cabin 409, shown with a queen bed configuration. * Photo: Peter Knego
Lindblad ships don’t have staterooms that lock from the outside, but of course, when guests want privacy, they can lock their doors from the inside.
Due to the sometimes rugged nature of the expeditions, most guests don’t bring valuables like jewelry and expensive watches. However, if they do, there is a safe as well as a drawer with a lock on it in each stateroom.
The ship has four guest decks, beginning at the top with Observation Deck, the forward portion of which has an open platform overlooking the bow.
A sheltered bar and open deck space lead aft from there to a terrace overlooking the stern.
The midships portion of Observation Deck with its al fresco bar and cushioned seating, facing aft. * Photo: Peter Knego
Bridge Deck also has an observation platform in front of the wheelhouse (which is open when navigation conditions permit).
Like most Lindblad ships, the National Geographic Endeavour II has a bridge that is accessible to guests, navigation and security conditions permitting. * Photo: Peter Knego
The public spaces aboard our Lindblad Galapagos expedition cruise
Cabins and suites lead aft from the wheelhouse to a small spa room and a gym on the port side as well as the Global Gallery shop on the starboard side.
The gym has a pair of treadmills, an elliptical and a stationary bike but no stretching area. * Photo: Peter Knego
A handsome library with books dedicated to the Galapagos and several computer stations is at the far aft end of Bridge Deck, followed by an open terrace overlooking the stern.
In addition to a wide selection of books about the Galapagos, the comfortable Library has board games, a trio of computer stations and even an espresso machine. * Photo: Peter Knego
Wisely, the National Geographic Endeavour II has no less than three forward observation terraces. This is the one on Lounge Deck. * Photo: Peter Knego
Lounge Deck begins with yet another open forward observation platform and the Lounge, which has a bar, an espresso machine and several LED screens.
In its center is the “Circle of Truth,” a circular podium area where the ship’s staff and naturalists give their presentations.
The Lounge in an aft-facing view, showing the “Circle of Truth” and the bar area. * Photo: Peter Knego
More staterooms follow aft from here to another open terrace, where the expedition gear (wet suits, masks, fins and snorkels) are stowed.
Upper Deck is home to staterooms and the midships Reception area and another aft terrace that is used mainly for queuing up for the zodiacs.
The Reception area, facing starboard. * Photo: Peter Knego
Main Deck is dedicated to crew space and the Restaurant, which is large enough to seat all guests at once.
Aft of the Restaurant, there is a platform for boarding zodiacs.
The handsome Restaurant, shown facing forward, has picture windows on each side and a soothing blue palette that is offset with wood tones. * Photo: Peter Knego
Once all guests had been embarked, there was some time to unpack before lunch was served.
Especially considering the limitations of provisioning a ship in the Galapagos, I was very impressed with the quality of the food and thoroughly delighted with the friendly, warm and intuitive service by the ship’s Ecuadorean staff throughout the trip.
The local specialties, which often included plantains and corn-based courses, were particularly good.
After lunch, there was a welcome orientation in the Lounge by our expedition leader Juan Carlos Avila and hotel manager Roberto Zambrano. It was followed by a safety drill as the ship hoisted anchor and slowly motored off the coast of San Cristobal.
The head of an excellent team of expedition leaders, Juan Carlos Avila welcomes us from the “Circle Of Truth.” * Photo: Peter Knego
The vaccination & masking protocols aboard National Geographic Endeavour II
While on the subject of safety, Lindblad’s current protocol requires all guests to be fully vaccinated at least two weeks prior to departure.
In addition, guests must provide a negative rapid antigen or PCR test within 72 hours of arrival in Ecuador (where they spend a day isolated in the hotel). And another rapid antigen test is administered the day prior to embarkation.
Once aboard, the policy at the time this report was published, was to wear face masks unless seated in the lounge or restaurant.
Except when making presentations, all staff wore their masks at all times but in zodiacs and at times on the ship. The standards for guests seemed to be a bit more lax.
After the safety drill, it was “all hands on deck,” for a toast as we approached, then circled the spectacular rock formation “Léon Dormido” or “Sleeping Lion.”
Approaching the beautifully lit Leon Dormido rock formation off San Cristobal Island. * Photo: Peter Knego
Also worth noting on Lindblad’s Galapagos itineraries, is that most drinks (save for top-shelf specialties) are included, along with wines at dinner, coffees, soft drinks and water.
(Water is dispensed from filtered taps into refillable aluminum containers given to each guest to cut back on single use plastics.)
Lindblad provides each guest with refillable aluminum water containers that make excellent keepsakes and cut down on single use plastics. * Photo: Peter Knego
Back in the Lounge, the captain hosted a welcome aboard party and the staff made their introductions and discussed the ship’s itinerary, which varies with each sailing.
This week’s sailing would cover most of the accessible islands, except the westernmost Fernandina and Isabella, which already had me pondering a return visit.
Our itinerary would visit mostly the eastern parts of the Galapagos. * Photo: Peter Knego
After dinner, most guests wasted no time in getting some much needed rest to fuel a very expedition-intense week.
All-inclusive fares per person for the 9-night Endeavour II Galapagos expedition start at $7,560, not including the flights.
End of Part 1.
Click HERE for Peter’s Part 2 — Endeavour II in the Galapagos!
Here’s more info on Lindblad’s Galapagos expeditions.
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HEIDI SARNA
