Cycling & Europe River Cruising, A Perfect Combo

Cycling & Europe River Cruising

By Ralph Grizzle

I am not your typical river cruiser. While no one loves river cruising more than I do, my approach is somewhat different. After more than 50 European river cruises, I’ve seen the sights and done the tours.

I’m not saying I’ve seen and done it all, but I’ve experienced enough to feel satisfied with Europe’s major highlights and attractions.

These days, and for the past decade or so, I’ve approached river cruising not as a tourist but as a cyclist.

A Passion for Cycling

My love of cycling runs deep. I’ve pedaled across America, Canada, Europe, both islands of New Zealand, and the East Coast of Australia, among other places. My legs have put in some serious miles.

So, whenever a river ship docks, you can bet I’ll be on my bike, riding into the city or countryside.

I wouldn’t be the first to say that cycling is the best way to explore a destination, but the sentiment certainly holds true for me. Cycling allows me to experience Europe much like the locals do.

Ralph has done a lot of Cycling & river cruising

Ralph has done more than 50 river cruises in Europe and he tries to cycle on all of them! * Photo: Ralph Grizzle

Europe’s Rivers as Prime Cycling Destinations

Rivers make for excellent cycling because many of Europe’s rivers have dedicated bike paths alongside them. I’ve cycled the gorgeous Moselle Valley, pedaled through Alsace, and ridden along the Rhone, Danube, and Seine. I’ve explored Bordeaux on two wheels.

All of these were while I was on river cruises or canal trips.

The cities too often have solid biking infrastructures. Few places do it better than Amsterdam, where I spent an afternoon cycling to and around Vondelpark. It’s the perfect way to explore this wonderful city when you’re on a Rhine cruise.

Another route that I enjoy from Amsterdam is Waterland, quaint region of fishing villages and picturesque landscapes, that makes for an ideal afternoon getaway by bike.

The ride starts with a free ferry from Amsterdam’s Central Rail Station.

On the Danube, Vienna has a wonderful network of cycling routes. In fact, the city seems to have been built for bikes and pedestrians.

As with Amsterdam, Vienna has dedicated bike roads and paths, with traffic lights specifically for the bikes. More importantly, however, is that the population is bike aware. Drivers never turn in front of bikes, pedestrians (even children) never wander into the bike lanes. Even the dogs are mindful.

Not all rivers are ideal for biking, but some of the best river cruises in Europe for cycling include:

Danube
Rhine
Rhone
Moselle
Main
Seine
Bordeaux region

The Douro, in Portugal, on the other hand, while beautiful, is not the ideal region for cycling while river cruising.

Ralph cycling in France on a Normandy/Seine Backroads cruise-cycle combo. * Photo: Ralph Grizzle

Understanding the Fear of Cycling

I get that not everyone shares my enthusiasm for cycling. Some people worry about maintaining balance, while others never learned to ride. Accidents can and do happen — I’ve witnessed a few and experienced some myself.

Still, for me, the benefits of cycling far outweigh the risks.

I always wear a helmet, even though you’ll see many Europeans who do not. And I always remain hyper-aware. Most accidents, a Backroads touring leader once told me, happen at the very start of the ride or at the end.

Practice putting your foot down, which you’ll need to do when coming to a traffic light. That’s where I’ve seen most people fall.

How Cycling Became My Escape

My love for cycling came both naturally and out of necessity. Though I had bikes as a kid, the first one I remember was a Western Flyer with a banana seat, sissy bar, and a translucent steering wheel. I loved that bike more than anything — and so did my pals.

As a teenager in small-town North Carolina, cycling became my escape. My father was a logger, and I was recruited into the family business at eight years old; yes, really. I knew I’d never see the world unless I found a way out. Without any real savings, my best option was to leave by bike. So, one day, I pedaled down a long gravel drive and headed west. Forty days later, I arrived in Los Angeles.

That journey was just the beginning. I cycled up the U.S. West Coast, through Canada, and then took off again — cycling both islands of New Zealand, the east coast of Australia, and backpacking through Asia before returning to Europe.

Later in life, I spent time living in Denmark and Sweden, a cyclist’s paradise, particularly Copenhagen.

Cycling & Europe River Cruising, a Great Combo

River cruise companies have recognized the appeal of cycling. Many have included bikes on their ships from the start, while others have added them in response to demand.

AmaWaterways and Avalon Waterways offer guided bike tours at most ports, and both allow independent touring by using the bikes they carry on board.

Backroads, a U.S. company specializing in active travel, has layered its cycling packages on top of river cruise itineraries, creating a perfect combination — using the ship as a floating hotel while providing daily cycling adventures.

I’ve joined Backroads on the Seine and Danube, as well as in Croatia while ocean cruising with Ponant.

Those trips rank among the most memorable of my life.

While in my late 40s, I cycled with a Dutch company that specialized in bike and boat combinations. There were about 75 people on board, nearly all Europeans, and quite a few in their 80s. I was surprised at how fit those seniors were.

And now at age 68, I’m one of them. Bicycling is a remarkably good way to stay fit with low impact to aging joints.

Let’s go cycling! * Photo: Ralph Grizzle

Customizing Your River Cruise Experience

Even if cycling isn’t for you, a river cruise can be whatever you want it to be. You don’t have to follow the structured excursions offered by the cruise line. While their tours are well-designed and cater to various interests — including active tours ranging from leisurely walks to intense hikes — you can also simply wander into town and absorb the local culture at a café.

Some of my best travel memories aren’t tied to grand landmarks but to simple moments — sipping Cremant in an Alsatian café and attempting a few words in French with the waiter.

The Reality of River Cruise Excursions

River cruise companies put a lot of effort into curating their tours, and for good reason. They fine-tune them based on guest feedback, ensuring they provide top-tier experiences with excellent guides and transport.

However, I once upset a cruise company when I spent my entire trip cycling instead of reviewing their excursions. While they were disappointed, some fellow guests told me they envied my approach; one even joined me for an afternoon ride.

Cycling & river cruising is the author's happy place

Cycling is the author’s happy place. * Photo: Ralph Grizzle

If I’m traveling and my river or canal cruise doesn’t offer cycling, or I want to cycle before or after my cruise in the ports of embarkation/debarkation, I research local bicycle companies as I travel. For instance, in Vienna, I’ve used Vienna Explorer.

The Joy of Missing Out (JOMO)

River cruising is designed for ease; each port’s must-see sights are laid out for you. But that doesn’t mean you have to do everything in every port.

Some travelers feel exhausted by the end of a cruise, trying to fit in as many excursions as possible.

One gentleman told me he needed a vacation to recover from his vacation.

I, on the other hand, embrace the “Joy of Missing Out” (JOMO).

Instead of rushing from one attraction to another, I do what I love most — cycling through Europe’s landscapes and villages, and along scenic riverbanks.

Nothing beats the endorphin rush of a good ride.

My Most Recent Ride

As I write this, I’m just a few days off a Danube cruise aboard the 196-passenger AmaMagna, AmaWaterways’ double-width flagship.

Ralph and his daughter Cycling & Europe River Cruising

Ralph and his daughter cycling on an AmaMagna river cruise. * Photo: Ralph Grizzle

This journey took me to incredible cycling destinations; Bratislava being a standout. I was surprised by its extensive network of car-free paths for cyclists, runners, and walkers. I rode more than 20 miles under sunny February skies, stopping at a few cafés along the way.

While others on the ship took part in well-organized tours, I spent my afternoon doing what I love most — cycling in Europe.

If you see me on a river ship, you can bet that I’m planning my next ride along the rivers. You’re welcome to join me. The only thing better than cycling along the rivers is cycling along them with a friend.