Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.
By Ted Scull.
Planning a trip to Australia, a continent roughly the size of the United States, presents a daunting prospect. It’s just over 2,000 air miles from Sydney on the east coast to Perth on the west.
The Great Barrier Reef, the subject of this article, is no less than 1,250 miles long, though it is not one continuous coral wall but consists of 1,500 major and 1,000 minor separate living reefs.
Barrier Reef’s Undersea life. * Photo: Christopher Trench
Yes, climate change has taken a toll on some stretches, but large sections of Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, are still intact and more than worthwhile for those interested in experiencing one of nature’s wonders.
Besides providing the home for over 1,500 species of fish, the reef forms the base for countless sand cays and hundreds of permanent uninhabited and habited islands that attract divers, snorkelers, fisherfolk, hikers, campers and those seeking plain or fancy resort life.
Where do you fit in?
A green turtle at Sudbury Reef. * Photo: Coral Expeditions
An island holiday is a popular way to get to know one small part of the Barrier Reef, while a cruise of from a few days to a week gives the best overview of the many diverse attractions.
Small Ship Cruises — Preferred
Some large cruise ships include the Great Barrier Reef in their seasonal South Pacific programs, and several small ship operators provide multiple-day cruises from Queensland ports with Cairns the most popular embarkation port.
The Barrier Reef Hotel, a heritage building located in Cairns, a fine city to linger a few days and the most popular port for joining a barrier reef cruise. *Photo: Ted Scull
There is no question that a small ship cruise is the way to go.
To capture the flavor of a barrier reef cruise, I have chosen the three cruises I have made beginning in the winter (Southern Hemisphere) of 1972 and into the 21st century.
One key element of multiple reef trips is my marriage to an Australian and family visits.
The ships may have changed over the years, and they all — past and present — fall well below Quirky Cruises’ upper limit of 300 passengers. Two were in the double digits.
However, the experience of what you see, do and eat roughly remains pretty the same and adds up to a broad picture of what a barrier reef cruise is all about, and if it is for you or not.
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My First Barrier Reef Cruise, 1972
On the first cruise in July 1972, I embarked at Mackay, located on the Queensland Coast, 600 miles north of Brisbane, the state capital, and 465 miles south of Cairns, the state’s second largest city.
The fleet is in made up of converted WWII general purpose vessels. * Photo: Ted Scull
The wooden hulled boat, a Fairmile (a type of motor launch designed by Fairmile Marine for the British Royal Navy), one unit of a larger fleet, was built during World War II as a patrol boat, escort ship, troop carrier, and submarine chaser and other tasks. The boat had then been converted for cruising with 22 passenger berths. It was basic living with shared facilities, and being somewhat younger at the time, that made no difference at all.
I recall the five days being an all-outdoor experience, except when sleeping.
Foredeck aboard a wooden boat that carried no more than 22 passengers. *Photo: Ted Scull
When we left the sight of land and several hours later arrived at the barrier reef some 60 miles out into the Pacific Ocean, we were entirely enveloped by nature, and alone, with no land or other vessels in view.
In those days, one was allowed to walk on the reef, as at low tide, the reef in this location was barely submerged.
One stepped carefully and not far, while under foot and under water there lurked the common and strange creatures that make Australia unique in so many ways.
Walking on the reef at low tide some 60 miles out at sea. *Photo: Ted Scull
An Amazing Sea World
Giant clams were embedded in the reef, open and ready to swallow you. And one afternoon, our task was to rake in oysters, and then learn how to open them in the evening before dinner. I may have downed two dozen, and I was not at all greedy, as several children aboard grimaced at the thought and had absolutely no interest. More for the rest of us.
Ted shucking oysters that we gathered up aboard a Roylen boat. * Photo: Fellow passenger
Snorkeling was another activity, launched from one of the lifeboats. I could hold my breath for a fair bit of time and found it huge fun to just be amongst all the creatures swirling about me and those watching from the safety of the reef.
My Second Barrier Reef Cruise, 1994
Decades later, after I had married a Queenslander who had lived in both Brisbane and Cairns, and with the reef in close proximity, we made a cruise on a larger vessel based at Cairns. It was operated by Captain Cook Cruises, a firm that still plies the waters from Sydney and Fiji, with the latter operation reviewed here in QC.
While my wife’s stomping ground, she would see and experience all sorts of barrier reef aspects that would be entirely new and different as she had not taken a cruise. Visits were day outings.
The Vessel
In August 1994, the Reef Escape provided a roomy cabin with a glass outer wall and sliding door that opened onto the side promenade, a relatively new experience and different from a private balcony or verandah, as it was communal space.
Captain Cook Cruises’ Reef Escape. *Photo: Ted Scull
I liked that and Australians are a friendly lot. Upon sailing from Cairns, the ship turned south as the sun dropped behind the coastal range.
A typical cabin opening onto a side promenade. *Photo: Ted Scull
We enjoyed dinner with two honeymoon couples, one from Texas and the other Italy. We could share with them stories of our honeymoon cruise in the Caribbean, not that long ago but definitely at a more advanced age.
Amazing Seafood Choices
To give readers an idea of the abundance and variety of food we encountered, the dinner menu produced a seafood terrine, grilled barramundi (a reef fish), prawns, dried tomato and lettuce salad, and sorbet with fresh strawberries.
The midday meal offered an extravagantly wide choice: cold whole salmon, smoked salmon, red emperor (a fish), prawns, raw oysters, curried mussels, scallops, whitebait fritters, mud crabs and Moreton Bay bugs (a saltwater crawfish).
The chef preparing a meal out on the deck. *Photo: Ted Scull.
It would be sinful not to overeat, but then lots of seafood does slide down quite easily.
The poor Texans from deep into cattle country, could not quite handle the buffet and asked the server for a cheeseburger. I sort of felt sorry for them but then once they had dug into what they were used to, all was well.
Excursions
Entering the narrow Hinchinbrook Channel the next morning, the traveling marine biologist pointed to the nearby saltwater mangrove swamp as home to mud crabs, sea turtles, estuary dolphins, saltwater crocodiles, hammerhead sharks, dugongs (similar to a manatee), and box jellyfish. Quite a list of unfamiliars.
He suggested not to swim in these waters at any time of the year. I was well far from being tempted. He then cheered us up by spotting graceful ibis, reef herons, shags and spoonbills.
Rainbow Lorikeet put on a color show along the Queensland Coast. *Photo: Ted Scull
Later in the day, we landed at Dunk Island for a walk into the rainforest where we encountered bush turkeys and birdwing, tiger and Ulysses butterflies.
This is definitely Australia and nowhere else.
A hour’s climb to the highest peak rewarded us with a gorgeous island panorama and seascape stretching to the far horizon. We used the island resort’s pool and beach before reboarding the ship at sunset and set sail for the next day at the outer reef.
What’s Below the Waterline
Anchoring in the morning, we snorkeled and viewed the undersea world from a glass bottom boat. The fish we saw were as colorful as their names — clownfish, yellowtail fusilier, moorish idol, surgeonfish, sweet lip and fox-faced rabbit fish, plus blue starfish, sea cucumber, and giant clams in a magical setting of golden staghorn, brain, plate, honeycomb and lettuce leaf coral.
A headland on the North Queensland Coast gives a sweeping view out to sea. *Photo: Ted Scull
Again, definitely only in OZ.
I don’t think one will find any other place with such rich and accessible variety of nature’s creatures.
While the second portion of the cruise would head north to Cooktown, a former gold rush site, Lizard Island, and a second day of watersports, we jumped ship at Cairn to explore the barrier reef’s extreme north end.
A relaxing afternoon en route to another location along the Queensland Coast. *Photo: Ted Scull
My Third Barrier Reef Cruise, 1994
The new conveyance was a tiny catamaran named Kangaroo Explorer with cabins for just 40 passengers, a dining room and observation lounge.
Northbound to Cape York
We headed north along the Cape York Peninsula looming as wild as when Captain Cook’s ship careened onto Endeavour Reef more than 200 years ago. Our little vessel bucked the head seas through the night, and by morning we arrived at a sand cay inhabited by nesting sooty terns and common noddies, and had a swim. Yes, it was safe.
In the afternoon we anchored just off the barrier reef with Pacific Ocean breakers pounding hard on the far side. Using octopus as bait, we soon were pulling in red emperor and spotted cod for tomorrow’s lunch.
Coming ashore from the Kangaroo Explorer, anchored in deeper water. *Photo: Ted Scull
Approaching Forbes Island, a converted Singapore Chinese junk and a pontoon fish farm occupied the small bay. The island’s last resident, a hermit, died in 1912, and his grave and cottage ruins were just in from the beach.
On the third day, we rounded the tip of Cape York Peninsula (check a map) and entered the Torres Strait, a treacherous channel dotted with 1,000 islands dividing Australia from the island of New Guinea. Before World War II, the area was a treasure trove for Japanese pearl divers. But today’s catch is crayfish.
Thursday Island & The End
We landed at Thursday Island, once an important military base and now inhabited by Torres Strait islanders. Captain Bligh of the Bounty had drifted by en route to the safety of Portuguese Timor, and Somerset Maugham wrote several South Seas stories here.
Thursday Island’s tiny Cathedral Church held that position for almost 100 years. * Photo: Ted Scull
Some passengers left for a camping expedition, and we flew back to Cairns.
Saying farewell at the top end of Australia. *Photo: Ted Scull
Coral Expeditions
Coral Expeditions is a small-ship cruise line that is by far the largest of the barrier reef operators these days. Here is brief outline of what they offer today.
Queensland’s Daintree River, just inland from the coast. *Photo: Coral Expeditions
As an example, Coral Expedition vessels (which may vary from season to season) offer an immersive 7-day adventure to the remote and untouched northern reefs.
Passengers explore the hidden corners, uninhabited sand cays, small islands, pristine reef systems and altogether inland tropical settings.
Aerial view of the Great Barrier Reef. *Photo: Coral Expeditions
Along the way one finds freedom and solitude amidst an iconic seascape. Share the journey with soaring seabirds and swim, dive, and snorkel at far-flung Osprey and Ribbon Reefs. Learn about ancient indigenous culture and Australian heritage at historic Cooktown. Stretch your legs with a hike to the summit of “Cooks Look.” Enjoy a sundowner with the sand beneath your toes and the setting sun at deserted Sudbury Cay.
Sudbury Cay at sunset. *Photo: Coral Expeditions.
Some itineraries will include the Coral Sea. Other Australian coastal cruises head for South Australia, the Great Australian Bight, Western Australia, and the Kimberley. See a soon to be published revisit there.
Lots of dive boat cruises are available for day trips and longer to the Barrier Reef.
Google Great Barrier Reef Dive Boats and your head will spin with choices.
Undersea at the Ribbon Reefs. *Photo: Christopher Trench
Small-Ship Lines Cruising Australia’s Great Barrier Reef
- Coral Expeditions
- Tradewind Voyages
- AdventureSmith Explorations (which buys into Coral Expeditions cruises)
SPECIAL OFFER: Circumnavigate Australia on a Tall Ship, the 272-passenger Golden Horizon.
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HEIDI SARNA
