Active Danube River Cruising with Emerald
By John Roberts
Emerald Cruises has created a fun way to bring a lot more energy to river cruising.
The line’s EmeraldACTIVE program launched in 2019, and we have now sailed twice on the river cruise line’s Emerald Destiny to avail of the fitness opportunities.
Check out the story of our first Emerald Destiny river cruise on the Rhine and Moselle Rivers in Germany as we got our first experience with Emerald Cruises and its brand-new EmeraldACTIVE program.
This second time, we cruised on the Danube River from Nuremberg to Budapest, enjoying pleasant weather on the cusp of autumn.
Our port stops included Regensburg and Passau in Germany and Melk, Durnstein and Vienna in Austria, as well as Bratislava (Slovakia) and Budapest (Hungary).
John’s 7-night Emerald Destiny Danube River itinerary. * Photo: John Roberts
The EmeraldACTIVE program features many fun and social ways to have a great time while exploring destinations, learning about the history and culture and, of course, indulging in delectable cuisine.
Daily activities offered include stuff like trivia contests and a disco dance night (typically at the end of the week), with a host of more fitness-focused sessions like morning stretch and yoga, Pilates and aqua aerobics classes.
You also have plenty of chances to head off the ship for hikes, walks and bike rides led by your Emerald Activities Manager. I’ll give you a look at how we spent our week enjoying the ship, destinations and food while participating in most of the activities.
Plus, at the end of this article, I’ll give you my best tips and tricks to show how you can take full advantage of EmeraldACTIVE and other similar programs so that you can keep up your fitness regimen even while on a river cruise.
If you prefer watching to reading, I made this video below to show active Danube River cruising in action!
About the Ship, Emerald Destiny
Emerald Destiny was launched in 2017 and is one of Emerald Cruises’ “Star Ships.” It carries up to 182 passengers and about 50 crew.
We had approximately 125 cruisers on our Danube voyage, and the four-deck ship felt lively but not overcrowded.
Note, masks were mandatory for crew and passengers inside the ship when not eating, drinking, exercising or sitting in the lounge.
John at the bow of the 182-passenger Emerald Destiny. * Photo: John Roberts
The Emerald Destiny’s indoor pool sits at the aft on Deck 3, and this space is a quiet retreat where you can relax on the loungers in peace during most of the day. During warmer cruising months, the roof opens up, as well, to let in fresh air and views of the sky.
During mornings, the space is used for fitness classes, and in the evenings, it can be used as The Cinema to show movies (popcorn included!).
There is also a small gym and a massage room at the back of Deck 2. Down on Deck 1 midship, there is a salon for hair treatments.
Guest Services are located midship on Deck 2, and the Horizon Lounge and Bar on Deck 3 is the main social hub onboard. This is where the port talks, cocktail hours, visiting local performers (we enjoyed Hungarian folk singers and dancers in Budapest) and activities like the dance party and trivia contests take place.
Early and late breakfast service is also at the front of the lounge, as well as a daily lunch (a scaled-down version of the full buffet offered in the main dining room Reflections on Deck 2). The Terrace area at the bow of the ship in the Horizon Lounge allows al fresco lunches and great viewing spots for sailing, traversing the locks or just enjoying a cocktail with friends at sunset.
The top Sun Deck features loungers, tables and chairs, and seating with canopies for shade on the soft artificial turf surface.
The top deck is ideal for golf putting and personal work outs. * Photo: John Roberts
A walking track encircles the deck, and you can practice your golf game on the three-hole putting course. We liked using this space for a daily workout (more on this below).
For a tour of the entire boat including John’s cabin, #24, he shot the video below:
Our Emerald Destiny Itinerary
We joined the ship in Nuremberg and immediately fell into old rhythms.
It had been more than two years since my last river cruise in Europe, and a huge smile emerged as I walked across the gangway and onto the ship. The crew greeted us with fantastic energy.
Colleen and I unpacked, had a look around the ship and headed to the top deck for a quick body-weight and exercise-band workout.
John’s quick go-to “anywhere” workout with his exercise bands. * Photo: John Roberts
The ship slowly filled with our fellow cruisers, and we participated in an afternoon trivia contest led by our Activities Manager Drazen Drazic. This was a fun ice breaker, and we just knew we would be getting to know Drazen quite well before our weeklong journey pulled into Budapest.
Activities Manager Drazen. * Photo: John Roberts
Turns out, he would have a full slate of fun stuff on tap for all of us.
Colleen and I teamed up with a few new friends and won the trivia competition! The payoff: a huge package of chocolate.
Now you know why creating a little balance between the exercise and culinary indulgences is so important. Sweets, regional beers and all types of satisfying (calorie-rich) foods are constantly available, and we love to enjoy them all.
We had our orientation chat from Cruise Director Darren Collins, settled into our first dinner and soon were sailing down the Danube.
Many cruisers were enjoying their first time on a river ship and were excitedly gathering on the top deck as we traversed a massive lock.
John stands in a deep lock traversed on route to Regensburg. * Photo: John Roberts
Waking Up in Regensburg
Our first port of call was the historic city of Regensburg, which I know for its beautiful medieval old town and the stunning 12th-century stone bridge that crosses the Danube.
At the base of the bridge sits one of my recommended must-visit spots in Regensburg: the Historic Sausage Kitchen.
A view from Regensburg’s stone bridge to the famous Sausage Kitchen. * Photo: John Roberts
The nearly 900-year-old restaurant is reputed to be the oldest continuously running restaurant in the world.
It has been owned and operated by the same family since 1806, and visitors love it for the tasty sausages that you can get for just over 3 euros each, complete with bun, mustard and kraut.
Historic Sausage Kitchen. * Photo: Historic Sausage Kitchen
Before exploring Regensburg, I started the day with a stretch class led by Jelena Vujicic, the ship’s wellness manager, and about 10 other passengers.
Jelena Vujicic, the ship’s wellness manager. * Photo: John Roberts
Jelena explained that she would change up the morning classes among stretch, yoga and Pilates, depending on what the majority of the attendees decided they were in the mood for. It was a fantastic way to start each day (around 7 a.m.) before breakfast.
I essentially planned my visit to Regensburg around joining my friends for a sausage snack ahead of a planned active walk to a beer garden led by Drazen. The weather was ideal for a run, so I went out for a two-miler, crossing the stone bridge and then returning to finish at the Historic Sausage Kitchen, where I met up with Colleen and our friends Lauren and Theresa who had been on their own walk.
The famous Sausage Kitchen. * Photo: John Roberts
We ordered a round of the savory treats and enjoyed them at the edge of the Danube under idyllic blue skies. Soon, it was time to meet up with Drazen at the Regensburg Cathedral (called St. Peter’s Cathedral and dating to the 13th century) to start our afternoon active walk.
(Drazen has set up a diverse program that includes walks, hikes and biking options in each port that can supplement your daily excursions in each destination.)
About 18 people came along for our saunter to the largest beer garden in the city. Located across the bridge and sitting along the banks of the river with amazing views and plenty of shade trees, Spitalgarden offered a nice variety of brews and extremely friendly staff.
John & Colleen at the Beer Garden. * Photo: John Roberts
It was Day 2 of the cruise, and we were already starting to make fantastic memories among new friends.
The easy camaraderie is exactly what I love about small-ship cruising.
The Spitalgarden. Cheers! * Photo: John Roberts
Pushing It in Passau
Waking up from a great night’s sleep, I had finally shaken off the jet lag and was ready for an energetic day.
We had a lot planned for Passau, a beautiful stop on the Danube, located in Bavaria where three rivers converge — the Danube, the Ilz and the Inn.
It was against this backdrop, as we sailed in under cover of a light fog, that we really jumped into the EmeraldACTIVE options. Jelena limbered up our bodies with a pretty challenging yoga session.
An early morning yoga session on board. * Photo: John Robers
Then, Colleen and I grabbed a couple bikes (Emerald Destiny carries bikes onboard the boat) and set out for a 10-mile pedal through Passau.
Biking in Passau. * Photo: John Roberts
Later, we joined Drazen and Jelena for a hike to the top of the iconic Veste Oberhaus fortress that dates to 1219 and looms over Passau.
This is a moderately challenging and fun walk up switchback trails from the base of the river almost straight up the hill to the best views over the city and the convergence of the three rivers.
Our moderately challenging hike from Passau. * Photo: John Roberts
View at the top of the Passau hike. * Photo: John Roberts
You ascend through forest and emerge at the well-preserved and massive fortress complex. We took the alternate Battlement Walk trail back down and were able to get different views and see more of the complex.
I still had one more active pursuit on the schedule, too!
Drazen offered his aqua aerobics class in the late afternoon, and I was determined to earn an extra beer or two for the day.
Emerald Destiny features an indoor pool, as I mentioned, and it’s located in a flexible space at the aft of the ship.
The floor of the pool can be raised to be flush with the rest of the room to create a workout studio or cinema. But when it is lowered, it is a nice deep pool that is great to splash around in, do a workout with the swim-against jet or slide into for a fun aerobics session.
Aqua Aerobics is yet another option for maintaining some daily fitness. * Photo: John Roberts
I was joined by one other guy in the pool, and Drazen gave us instructions from the deck at the front of the pool, leading a nice 30-minute workout before cocktail hour. What a day!
Four physical activities in the books. I think I really earned my Duckstein pilsner beers and a full dessert.
Well deserved Duckstein pilsner beer! * Photo: John Roberts
Well earned dessert! * Photo: John Roberts
Many Miles from Melk
We reached the heart of the beautiful Wachau Valley the next morning as we arrived in Melk, Austria.
The Melk Abbey is a highlight of this port stop, and most on our ship went up to the Benedictine abbey to see the impressive building that dates to 1089 and houses a school today.
Visitors will enjoy the Baroque abbey, which looms impressively on a rocky outcropping over the town, to see the library, Imperial Staircase, marble hall and garden.
Colleen and I have been to the abbey a couple of times, so we chose to go for a run and then walk into the town to explore some of the little alleys, boutiques and cafes.
Then, after our traditional Bavarian lunch back on board Emerald Destiny — think sausages, pretzels, dumplings, schnitzel and big mugs of beer — we were fueled up for the big EmeraldACTIVE excursion: a nearly 30-mile bike ride from Melk to Durnstein.
The tasty traditional Bavarian lunch on board. * Photo: John Roberts
A local tour guide leads this epic ride that travels the bends of the Danube, with a series of forays into the hillside vineyards and charming towns like Spitz, Weisenkirchen and Willendorf, where we stopped for a mid-ride break to enjoy a beer.
Scenes on the 30-mile bike ride. * Photo: John Roberts
Our group had riders ranging in age from early 40s to early 80s, and all fared pretty well on this invigorating pedal that brought us to Durnstein, a true gem of the region.
The 30-mile ride between Melk and Durnstein. * Photo: John Roberts
Post-ride, we joined our fellow cruisers from Emerald Destiny who who stayed onboard to enjoy a period of post-lunch scenic sailing through the valley as the ship sailed from Melk to Durnstein. Riders who chose the pedal-powered route got a nice certificate to document the accomplishment.
Once docked in Durnstein, many wandered the charming town, taking time to duck into a café or shop for an apricot dumpling or apricot brandy. The fruit is a regional specialty.
Drazen offered an active hike on the steep trail to the Durnstein Castle ruins, where Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned for a few months in the late 12th century.
The breathtaking view from from the top of Durnstein Castle. * Photo: John Roberts
A hike to the top and then scaling some rocky ruins yields the most stunning views of the Lower Wachau and the beautiful bends in the Danube.
John triumphant at the hilltop Durnstein Castle. * Photo: John Roberts
After the ride and hike, I was definitely ready for a relaxing night onboard. We joined friends on the bow of the ship, the Terrace at the Horizon Lounge, for cocktails at sunset.
This, plus dinner and a lively “Name That Tune” competition in the lounge later that night capped a distinctly EmeraldACTIVE kind of day.
John enjoying the end of a long active fabulous day. * Photo: John Roberts
Vienna Like a Local
This day offered our first of three consecutive days visiting impressive capital cities. Vienna, Austria, has always been a favorite on the Danube cruises.
We have enjoyed Christmas markets, operas, exploring Stephansplatz and St. Stephan’s Cathedral at the center of the city, venturing out to Schonbrunn Palace (the summer home for the Hapsburgs) and diving into a bit of night life at small bars and the town hall during a festival.
However, this time, we decided to spend our day in Vienna going for a bike ride to Donauisel (Danube Island), a man-made strip of land in the middle of the river that has beaches, bike paths, park land and a large space for weekend music festivals.
This barrier island was made as part of the city’s flood-mitigation measures 50 years ago, and it’s now used as a wonderful recreation spot.
We grabbed two bikes and took the short ride across the bridge right next to where Emerald Destiny was docked. Once on the island, you can follow the miles of bike paths all around.
The two of us rode for a while before I found a quiet little spot on the shore to do my Danube dip to cool off.
It’s especially refreshing in summer months, but I found it not too bad even in mid-September.
John’s dip in the Danube of course! * Photo: Colleen McDaniel
We retreated to the ship for some lunch and an afternoon workout on the Sun Deck before taking a nice walk with Drazen to the city’s Prater amusement park. It was about a 30-minute walk from the ship to this large park contained within a public park space that covers 6 million square meters.
The centerpiece of the amusement park is the world’s oldest working Ferris wheel, the Wiener Riesenrad, which rises 212 feet and dates to 1897. The amusement park also has numerous roller coasters, a chocolate museum, Madame Tussaud’s wax museum and beer gardens.
Vienna’s late 19th-century Wiener Riesenrad ferris wheel. * Photo: Prater amusement park
Colleen and I headed back to the ship in late afternoon to rejoin our fellow cruisers for more cocktails, a fine dinner celebration for Colleen’s birthday and an evening of dancing and late-night snacks once the opera-goers returned from their show (there is always an evening opera excursion offered on Danube cruises that visit Vienna).
A lovely ending to a wonderful day. * Photo: John Roberts
Biking by Day & a Boogie-ful Night in Bratislava
Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia, is one of our favorite recent discoveries. It’s an underrated destination and is utterly charming. Its Old Town square is just steps from where river ships dock, and the cobbled streets are generally uncrowded compared to Vienna or Budapest. Highlights include Bratislava Castle and the coronation church, St. Martin’s Cathedral.
As craft beer lovers, we discovered that Bratislava ranks among the most up-and-coming destinations in Europe for small breweries offering a variety of great brews and fantastic food accompaniments.
Colleen and I had planned a spa day and grabbed two bikes from the ship to pedal over to the other side of the river to enjoy a full slate of treatments: massage, facial and petal bath.
Biking in Bratislava. * Photo: John Roberts
It was a great way to rejuvenate after days of fast-paced activity, and biking through the neighborhoods and parks to and from the spa (we did get a little lost) was a pleasant way to start the day.
We found our way back to Emerald Destiny, dropped off our bikes and wandered into the Old Town in search on a nice craft brewery for a lunch and some brews. If we’ve been to a place more than a couple times, we love to build on what we know about the spot and try to find something new to discover. Thus, the bike trip to a spa and this wander through town. Several others joined Drazen on an afternoon bike ride across the river to an old bunker for the EmeraldACTIVE option.
On our walk, we saw many familiar shops, bars and points of interest and eventually stumbled upon Mesuge Craft Beer Pub just outside the tourist region. What a great find!
Our young server, Denis, from Ukraine, helped us pick our beers to pair with excellent burgers. We enjoyed our feast in a little garden among a few other patrons as the rains from early afternoon had departed to make way for blue skies. We were quite pleased with ourselves for such a fortuitous find.
Enjoying life at the Mesuge Pub in Bratislava. * Photo: John Roberts
As blissful as it might have been, alas, it was time to head back to our ship in time to sail on toward Budapest.
By this time, many new friendships had been cemented over a highly enjoyable shared experience sailing on the Danube during this beautiful autumn week in September.
The energy was obvious as the lounge buzzed with conversation and stayed crowded late into the evenings after dinner.
On this night, Drazen played DJ, spinning classic disco hits to ensure the dance floor filled up.
Drazen playing DJ for evening. * Photo: John Roberts
Colleen and I were among the last few who managed to boogie until just past midnight. And we all plopped down into our seats afterwards for one final cocktail and a little conversation before heading to bed.
The reality that the cruise was in its final days was setting in, but we still had one last great city to experience.
Hungary, for Much More
Our captain advised us to rise early and head to the top deck so that we wouldn’t miss the spectacular experience of sailing in to arrive at Budapest. The city’s various bridges and buildings give it a distinct look of grandeur.
Folks up on deck to enjoy the approach into Budapest. * Photo: John Roberts
The captain eased the ship through the river and past Margaret Island, under the adjacent bridge. He pulled off a fun little spin in front of the iconic parliament building to give the gathered crown on the sun deck a nice look from all angles.
Budapest’s iconic Parliament building. * Photo: John Roberts
What a way to start the day!
After a quick workout on our own, we were determined to find some paprika to replenish our spice rack back home. We headed to the brilliant Budapest Market Hall, where I know they offer a stunning variety of goods like meats, cheeses, fruits, sweets, souvenirs, and, of course, paprika, as well as featuring restaurants and others shops. (You must visit when you are in Budapest.)
However, it is closed on Sundays, and we were there on a Sunday. (Sad face.)
Undeterred, we knew we would find some, and we had wanted to have a long walk through the city anyways. We hoofed it all over the Pest (the bustling half of the city) area of Budapest and made our way to St. Stephen’s Square, home of the magnificent St. Stephen’s Basilica. A food festival was in full swing, and we bypassed the dozens of kiosks selling ice creams, candies and countless other sweet treats. Colleen had expertly sniffed out a cart selling pouches of paprika, and she secured both a mild and spicy variety.
We walked back to the ship along the river and took in a gorgeous sunset.
The skies grew dark and the lights came on around Budapest, making the city glimmer.
We had our farewell dinner and more cocktails and convivial conversations in the lounge, connecting with new friends on Facebook and already working out ways that we could recreate the whole experience once again.
Here’s more info on this itinerary on the Emerald website.
Fares start at $1,995 per person and include complimentary wine, beer and soft drinks at lunch and dinner on board, as well as excursions in port.
And below John create a great overview video of the entire cruise.
6 Tips for Keeping Active on a Danube River Cruise
1. Pick the right line.
Book with a company that offers some kind of fitness-focused or active-excursion program.
As outlined here, Emerald Cruises offers its multi-faceted EmeraldACTIVE program. On this 7-night Danube River cruise, the following fitness activities were offered:
- Hike around Passau
- A guided bike tour along the Danube River from Melk to Dürnstein
- Guided hike to Dürnstein Castle
- Guided bike tour in Vienna
- Guided Hike to Bratislava Castle
- A hike to Buda Hill
Avalon Waterways has a lineup of “Active & Discovery” river cruises that include an incredible array of excursions and other activities that get you out hiking, biking, kayaking and more.
2. Go biking.
Many cruise lines carry bikes on board that travelers are welcome to sign out for independent rides or use during organized cycling tours.
River cruising & cycling go hand in hand. * Photo: John Roberts
3. Step to it.
European rivers offer well-marked and safe paths that allow for fun runs and walks right along the waterways, with no worries about getting lost.
You also can ask your cruise directors to give you tips for great running routes, walking paths, hiking trails or parks that are in or near the cities and villages that you visit.
Your ship also will have an area on the top deck where you can walk laps.
4. Use the gym.
Most cruise lines offer ships with small gyms that have a stationary bike and/or treadmills. Plus, you will usually find a few free weights or some kind of resistance training machine, as well as yoga mats.
5. Pack your own gear.
You can bring along a few resistance bands and create your own excellent workouts by using the space available on the top sun deck of your river cruise ship.
6. Download an app.
Fitness apps let you bring your instructors with you on a river cruise. Apps from services such as Peloton, Home Workout, Seven and Workout Trainer are nice options.
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HEIDI SARNA
