SeaTrek Indonesia Sailing Cruise
By Alison Abbott
See Indonesia through Indonesian eyes. I kept the mantra of the SeaTrek Sailing Adventures team in my mind’s eye as I powered through the 36 hours it took me to arrive at the gangway of Ombak Putih, the start of this marine adventure.
SeaTrek Sailing Adventures has a deep commitment to the preservation of the Indonesian Archipelago. Their dedication to responsible travel and leaving the communities they come in contact with better than when they started made my decision to travel with them on a luxury pinisi cruise an easy one.
Their 8-night “Komodo” cruise avoids the crowds and gives plenty of time for exclusive days in a tranquil setting; a cure for just about anything that ails you. Our trip was titled “Whale Sharks, Corals and Dragons,” and while the title sums up the main events, so many more descriptors would be added to this cruise. Curated, intimate, adventurous and seamless are a few that immediately come to mind. The fact that swimming with whale sharks has always been a top bucket list item for me might have also come into play.
I was traveling with Janie, my best friend from college and frequent travel companion who loves the quirky nature of travel as much as I do. Our round-trip journey begins at the home of the infamous Komodo dragon about an hour’s flight east of Bali.
Upon landing at Labuan Bajo, located at the western tip of Flores Island (which is near Komodo Island), we took a short drive to the marina and then boarded a dinghy and arrived at our home for the next 9 days/8 nights — the lovely Ombak Putih.
The Ship — Ombak Putih
Pinisi (phinisi) ships are handcrafted wooden yachts constructed in a tradition that has been handed down through generations. Technically, the term pinisi refers to a unique gaff-ketch (the rigging system), but this two-masted sailing vessel is deeply tied to the maritime history of the archipelago. Crafted from ironwood and teak, Phinisi boat building was honored by UNESCO in 2017 as Intangible Cultural Heritage.
The world’s largest island nation has an innate connection to the pinisi. Originally used for trading spices, textiles and gold, the bodies of these time-honored yachts have been updated and modernized to fit the needs of today’s luxury traveler.
The Ombak Putih is one of two ships in the fleet, Katharina is the sister ship (QuirkyCruise Co-Founder Heidi Sarna sailed on the Katharina more than a decade ago, her review is here). While each is unique, they both have the same aesthetic and traditional pinisi structure. Their distinguishing red (Katharina) and blue sails (Ombak Putih) make quite a statement in the harbor. Slightly larger in size at 137 feet, the Ombak Putih can accommodate 24 guests in 12 comfortable cabins.
On my sailing, there were 14 passengers, a well-traveled international crowd hailing from the USA, UK, Spain and Hungary; with ages ranging from 40s to 70s.
Upper Deck Common Areas
There are three decks, with lots of outdoor space, where guests are expected to spend most of their time.
The top deck is a luxurious covered open-air lounge. Reclining chaises make for a comfy reading spot. The adjacent heavily pillowed couch was a favorite location for an afternoon nap. In addition, small bean bag chairs are easily moved and can be positioned for incredible sunset views.
Shortly past the bridge and crew cabins is the most aft spot on this level with another set of three teak daybeds overlooking the deck below.
The Main deck contains crew cabins in the rear of this floor, then the galley. Mid-deck there is a lounge area where meetings and de-briefs were held, a coffee/drinks station, filtered water cooler and bar area.
Meals were served buffet style on the middle counter and there was also a dry dock charging station for guests to keep cameras and equipment at the ready for activities. Larger tables could be used as a workstation or for eating during inclement weather (we only ate inside as a group once).
A small library with an impressive array of books related to sailing and cruise topics was also located here. After traveling to the Galapagos a few years ago and learning so much about Darwin, I was surprised to discover the work of Alfred Russel Wallace on this trip. He independently from Darwin co-discovered the theory of evolution by natural selection but receives little of the credit. His book Malay Archipelago which details his discoveries and travel in the very area was prominent in the library. I felt fortunate to now be traveling in his rainbow-colored underwater playground!
Moving forward is a covered seating area with three sets of teak tables and chairs. This is where we enjoyed all but one of our meals. Additional chairs provide a nice place for reading or just sitting and watching the beautiful scenery.
The vessel is also equipped with two modern tenders, paddleboards and all the necessary gear for snorkeling.
Staterooms — Lower Deck
In the center of the mid-deck lounge is a fairly steep staircase leading to the staterooms. The center hall is whitewashed in a brilliant, glossy white. Walls of the hallway are lined with black and white photos of crew members enjoying their time at sea. Their faces are filled with genuine joy and put a smile on my face every time I made the way to my room.
All of the 12 cabins are en-suite. Six are superior cabins with double beds. Bunk beds are in four cabins and two of the cabins are triple with a double and bunk configuration. The ironwood construction continues into the suites and although dark, gives a cozy vibe.
Crisp white linens are on the bed with ikat accent pillows and a throw adding a chic Indonesian flavor. A porthole provides natural light and there are numerous plugs in the room for electronics. Overall, cabins are comfortable but they're small for two people to maneuver around at the same time; that said, the whole point of a SeaTrek cruise is to hang out up on deck or in the water snorkeling!
The ensuite bathroom is adequate with plenty of hot water and a strong, removable handheld shower head. I found the “navy-shower” method is my best bet in these smaller situations: get wet, turn off the water and soap up, rinse. I’m not a fan of soaking the whole washroom.
Each cabin has a porthole, and I loved waking each morning to watch the sea drift by. Individually controlled air conditioning offered welcome relief from the intense heat and made sleeping very comfortable. Under-bed baskets provide clothing storage, while unpacked luggage is kept separately in a supply room.
In room amenities are eco-friendly and sourced from local vendors. On board sunscreen is reef safe and available to all guests. Should you forget your toothbrush, there’s a bamboo replacement on hand.
The Indonesian crew on board numbers 14 and within a few minutes of arrival, the guests are charmed by their warm and friendly nature. They were one of many highlights on the trip. After a brief safety check and introduction to our fantastic trip leaders, Tinae and Jemy, we were on our way.
SeaTrek Indonesia Sailing Cruise Itinerary
The ship often sailed while we slept, the motor a hum I found easy to sleep with. I never felt the seas were too rough on our sailing; for me, the ship's movements were gentle.
Waking up to another incredible view each day was divine. Indonesia through Indonesian eyes. It kept coming into my head. Was the team following through on that fundamental, but complicated statement?
Day one we jumped right into responsible travel with a lesson in coral regeneration. After an onboard presentation, we hit the beach and built the beginnings of a new coral reef.
We took to the water nearby with our newly fitted snorkel gear. All perspectives changed for me. The kaleidoscope of sea-life and corals was unlike anything I had ever seen and immediately had me wanting more. As a newbie snorkeler this was a whole new world. The rainbow of colors was mesmerizing. We drifted with the current and saw eels and colorful lionfish, razorfish and so much more. Sadly a storm approached and the first “dive” was brought to an end as we raced with the rain back to the comfort of Ombak Putih.
When we returned to the ship after every excursion, there was always a smile and refreshing juice awaiting: mango, pomegranate, soursop and dragon fruit to name a few.
This first experience set the tone. While I was aware of the struggles and importance of healthy coral, I better understood the value of SeaTrek’s involvement with replacing over 4,000 coral bits in 30+ reefs around the area. This symbiotic relationship would prove to be a theme on our twice a day ventures under water. Here's more info about what SeaTrek called “sailing for good.”
Visiting remote villages and sites off the normal tourist trail is the mission of the owners. They are committed to an authentic Indonesian experience for their guests. Early on we arrived at Bontah village as the golden hour approached. Men sat by the waterfront, goats rambled along the waterline scratching their backs on the wooden fishing boats.
Tinae and Jemy brought us to a small pinisi boatyard where a ship was in the beginning stages of construction. It was hard to imagine the slabs of ironwood in front of us being transformed into the beauty of Ombak Putih, but here it was being birthed into a shallow form. We spoke about the tradition and what’s involved in making a blueprint become a reality.
Outside, amongst the goats and small children, the clothes lines were filled with handwoven ikats, a type of traditional weaving and dying.
Shy little ones peeked through the fabrics representing those local handwoven textiles I always search for. After some purchases that left everyone smiling, we headed back to the boat.
The following day started with a challenging hike on Moyo Island. The emerald green pools of water following the trail gave little indication of the beauty awaiting at the top: Matajitu waterfall. What a refreshing scene; the group jumped, posed, relaxed and disappeared behind the pounding waters. Fresh coconuts awaited when we had our fill.
By the afternoon of day three this rookie snorkeler finally felt comfortable enough in her mask and fins to break out the underwater camera she was determined to try. While my photos won’t win any awards, I had challenged myself to learn how to use it and try something new. It was a testament to the encouragement and interest the travel leaders took in making me feel comfortable in the water. Jemy and Tinae helped with instruction, both camera expertise and underwater skill to help both Janie and I step out of our comfort zones and take advantage of all this cruise had to offer.
Each evening before dinner, the travel leaders presented a debrief from the day, covered all the wildlife we had seen (slides of the guests included) and talked about the next days activities. Their knowledge and efficiency was impressive.
READ MORE: Here are more details about the “Whale Sharks, Corals & Dragons” itinerary.
Highlight Alert!
Next up was the bucket list event I was waiting for — stories, insights and safety tips about swimming with whale sharks were shared. The anxiety I was feeling about swimming with these underwater giants heightened. Never in my life did I think this opportunity would present itself! How would I ever fall asleep when I knew what awaited in the early morning.
By 6:30am we were in the dinghies headed for the spider net fishing station where we hoped to get lucky. The full moon was setting on the horizon and the soft glow of sunrise colored the sky. I tried to keep my emotions in check and remember that the largest living fish species was in the wild, and might not materialize. Ready, set, deep breath and into the water I go.
Immediately two creatures about the size of a small bus appeared and to be honest, I was hyperventilating; not a good way to snorkel! As I watched them gracefully glide through the water, two more appeared. The mesmerizing patterns on their bodies distracted me. A calm came over my mind and suddenly I was in a dreamlike state. I floated and moved through the water to take in every wonderful moment. Tears are welling in my eyes as I type remembering the joy I felt being able to see these magnificent creatures in a way that was both responsible and beneficial for all involved.
There were so many WOWS from everyone when we got back to the boat; that day had reached a new high. After a visit to the Indonesian Conservation center we learned additional insightful information about whale sharks. Who knew that each fish can be identified by the spotting around their gills? Just like a fingerprint. SeaTrek had provided the center with children's books to support learning about these gentle giants.
From the center we drove into another local community where training for Kerbau was on the agenda. Water buffalo racing is a cultural event and after watching it, I would label it an extreme sport. Jockeys balance on a precarious wooden bar placed between two of the animals and race in a muddy rice paddy. The goal is to stay on until the finish line and be the fastest, but as you can imagine, there are often hilarious results. The village was out in force for the challenge and welcomed us with open arms. It was quite a spectacle.
VIDEO: Below, a local kid tries out water buffalo racing (to be filed under the, “don't try this at home!”).
These animals are deeply embedded in the agricultural history of the nation. Farmers would often race their water buffalos on the way to plow fields and this eventually grew into the cultural sport it is today.
Box, porcupine, puffer, bat, unicorn and pipefish, so much biodiversity in these waters. As the cruise progressed, there was daily snorkeling, kayaking and paddle boarding in a volcanic lake, sunning on a pink beach, a magical beach barbecue under the stars while being serenaded by the crew and a special appearance one afternoon by a giant black manta ray.
Most of the guests on this trip were avid divers and/or snorkelers. Without exception, they all agreed that this trip presented the best underwater life and healthiest reefs they had ever seen anywhere in the world.
On our last full day, the infamous Komodo dragon was on the agenda. Fewer than 3,500 remain in the wild and most live in this area. During our trek in their natural habitat, we were able to count nine, always with the ranger nearby for protection. Seeing this endangered species up close felt like such a privilege. It is difficult to wrap my head around the fact that they’ve been on Flores Island for 1.5 million years.
(That said, compared to the other experiences we had on this adventurous cruise, seeing the dragons, for as famous as they are, was underwhelming in comparison. They are not the main reason to take this cruise. For me, swimming with the whale sharks was a once in a lifetime experience that I never really thought I'd have the chance to do. That alone was worth it.)
That afternoon we visited a Bajau village. Children met us at the dock and immediately took our hands to lead us through the area they call home. Some would practice their English, others demonstrated they were better at taking selfies than I was. Lots of laughs. It was a joyful occasion when we stopped at their school and donated supplies from both the passengers and SeaTrek’s Sailing for Good program.
Later, our farewell dinner was bittersweet. Lovely connections, great food, singing and dancing late into the evening.
Our final morning brings us back to the real world, but only after a trip through the mountains to another remote village. One more taste of tradition with a dance from the Manggarai people, the largest indigenous group found in western Flores. The community works hard to preserve their traditions and this demonstration of martial arts and rhythmic dance was a sight to behold.
The sounds of their caci whips, singing and a kinetic bamboo hopscotch-like game echo in my head as we make our way to the airport; richer in ways I never could have imagined. And yes, I have certainly experienced a slice of this beautiful archipelago through Indonesian eyes.
VIDEO: Below, you can see a bit of a traditional dance performed by the Manggarai people.
Food On My SeaTrek Indonesia Sailing Cruise
On board, you’ll find a variety of dishes on the menu. Traditional Indonesian recipes with local ingredients as well as more familiar international dishes appear three times a day from a small, efficient kitchen that works wonders.
Breakfast offered a variety of breads with jams, yogurt, fruits, cereals, eggs to order and usually a freshly made hot offering. Juice, coffees and teas are always available.
Lunch and dinner focused more on an Indonesian offering: satay with peanut sauce, gado-gado, an interesting cold corn soup, varieties of tofu and seitan. Local fish made appearances as well as plenty of additional plant based dishes. And don’t worry, carnivores had their steak and chicken.
While the boat is provisioned before departure, I did notice the crew picking up fresh eggs on one of the islands we visited. Local fruit was usually the default end of meal dish, however I joined my fellow travelers in genuine delight when crepes with Nutella were served one night. Just desserts after a day of burning calories in the water.
Additional Travel In The Region
Most travelers will combine an archipelago cruise with additional touring around Bali either before or after the trip. After the long flight to arrive, we spent the night in Jimbaran and then flew to Flores early the next morning. If you arrive in the evening, I would recommend spending the night close to the airport. If you have the whole day after an early arrival, Jimbaran Puri Belmond is a gorgeous spot to indulge for the day.
SeaTrek recommended an excellent guide for our additional travel and his warm smile greeted us as we disembarked in Bali. There is so much to see here, but sadly, we only had four days. Two we chose to spend in Sideman, in eastern Bali, where textiles and temples were on the agenda.
Known as a culture and arts center in central Bali, Ubud was our final stop with more sightseeing and a wellness day before we returned to the United States.
Some More Useful Facts About the Ombak Putih
Full Charters Are a Great Option
Ombak Putih is available for private full charters by family/friend groups. For help organizing this, contact our favorite travel advisor Kevin, via the form at the end of this review.
Getting There
Our embarkation point was Komodo Island, which is a short one-hour flight from Bali. Flights from the US often go via Singapore or Bangkok and then on Bail. I always arrive at least one day before a cruise leaves to allow for travel delays.
Weather In The Indonesian Archipelago
The climate of Indonesia is almost entirely tropical, as the archipelago straddles the equator. Temperature varies little from season to season; the biggest variation comes from the rain. Indonesia experiences relatively little change in the length of daylight hours from one season to the next.
Itineraries on the ships vary by season. Our trip took place in the beginning of May, when temperatures during the day hovered around 90 with very high humidity, making snorkel trips a welcome relief. Cabins are air conditioned for pleasant sleeping.
Whatever month you travel, make sure to pack plenty of sunscreen and a hat.
Final Thoughts — Is A SeaTrek Indonesia Sailing Cruise For You?
After 12+ years working in the travel industry and a lifetime of living by water, it takes something extraordinary to make me say WOW. I will never look at the underwater world in the same way after my cruise with SeaTrek Adventures. If you too are looking to capture that WOW factor and see Indonesia thru Indonesian eyes, then Sea Trek has a cruise for you.
I highly recommend the Ombak Putih if you’re looking for an intimate trip in one of the best snorkeling destinations in the world. The setting is personal, comfortable and full of adventure. Flavored with an authentic Asian aesthetic, this is responsible travel at its best — from SeaTrek's work with coral regeneration to their incorporating local ingredients in their meals, hiring local crew and the ship being powered in part by the wind in her sails.
Interested In This “Corals, Whale Sharks & Dragons” Cruise?
For more information have a look at SeaTrek Adventures’ website.
Fares for the 8-night Komodo trips begin at $6,320 USD per person, and include:
- Transfer from your Flores hotel or the airport to the ship.
- Entrance fees to the sites/parks visited en route.
- Official on-board Indonesian guides.
- All meals, snacks and non-alcoholic beverages throughout trip.
- Transfer from the boat to airport for passengers’ flight.
What's not included:
- Beer, wine (white and red) and liquor (They have a nice selection on board and work on the honor system. You can also BYOB and keep it in the bar area.)
- Tips to the crew and guide at the end of the trip
For assistance booking this cruise, we always refer our readers to our favorite travel advisor Kevin. Show your interest in having him help you by filling out the form below.
Interested In An Indonesia Cruise?
For years, we've been referring our readers to our favorite travel advisor, Kevin Flink, because of his excellent customer service and expertise in travel planning. Kevin owns a franchise of Cruise Planners, one of the highest producing land and cruise travel agencies in the world, which means he gets access to various discounts and perks from cruise lines, hotels and insurance companies that he can pass on to his clients.
To show your interest in booking a SeaTrek Indonesia cruise (or any cruise!) with Kevin, please tell us a bit more about what you’re looking for and we will be happy to get you both connected.
* Your personal information will be used solely for purposes of responding to your request.
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HEIDI SARNA
