Winter Cruising On The Lower Mississippi With American Cruise Lines (2026 REVIEW): Cruise Expert Peter Knego Shares The Details

Photo above: Sunset over the American Serenade at Natchez. * Photo: Peter Knego

Winter Cruising On The Lower Mississippi

By Peter Knego

Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of cruising the Upper Mississippi (St. Louis to St. Paul), the Ohio twice (St. Louis to Pittsburgh) and even a partial interlude on the Lower Mississippi (New Orleans to Natchez).

These voyages were all with now defunct Delta Queen Steamboat Company and, later, the American Queen Steamboat Company, on the paddle wheelers Delta Queen, American Queen and American Countess. Experiencing the Big Muddy and Ohio under steam (and even on the diesel-powered Countess) surrounded in ersatz Victorian decor with those big, churning wheels and the occasional, ear drum-shattering calliope were memories I will always cherish.

Today, save for a pair of sternwheelers in the American Cruise Line fleet (where the wheel is just for show), that kind of Mississippi experience has been relegated to the memory banks. As this is being written, the once beloved American Queen fleet is ending its days in various Louisiana scrapyards while the historic Delta Queen remains laid up with an uncertain future, unlikely to ever sail again.

Modern, Spacious Comfort, Minus the “Victoriana”

Is the Mississippi without all those frills and ornate Mark Twain-era surrounds as appealing?

Well, this past February, I had a chance to find out with the first sailing of the year aboard American Cruise Line’s American Serenade. This would actually not only be my first Mississippi River cruise with American, but my first ever cruise with them.

The chic, modern vessel is the first of three Serenade-class boats that also includes the American Symphony and American Melody, measuring 5,101 gross tons and carrying 180 guests who are tended by a crew of 43.

The 2023-built Serenade, which will be getting a full makeover next year in 2027 (at only four years old, a crew member told me it was to bring her more into the style of American’s newer boats, with lighter and brighter color schemes, in like with the brand new 180-passenger Encore) is a sensible and handsomely appointed vessel and quite the antithesis of a classic paddle wheeler. Currently, her public spaces feature soothing, autumnal color schemes and are well laid out and comfortable, in tune with ACL’s contemporary style, versus the Antebellum floating palaces emulated by the former American Queen vessels.

The Serenade has five decks, beginning at the top with Deck 5, which has loads of open and sheltered deck space. Here, you will also find a walking/jogging track (11 times around equals a mile) that wraps around the stern in an elevated loop overlooking a terrace on aft Deck 4.

Deck 4 begins with the pilothouse and suite accommodations that lead back to the skylight-topped Sky Lounge.

A narrow, sheltered terrace with cushioned deck chairs fronts Deck 3, followed by the Sun Lounge, which can accommodate all in one seating and serves as the hub for all activities and entertainment. Depending on the function, the Sun Lounge can be set up as a lounge with cocktail tables or auditorium style for presentations and shows. The rest of this level is dedicated to accommodations.

Deck 2 also features accommodations, a handy, no-charge, self-service laundry (which we used twice) and a pair (yes two!) of fitness centers at the stern.

Deck 1 has a small bloc of accommodations, the reception lobby and the restaurant. There are also a few smaller spaces adjacent to the main staircase/atrium, which is topped by a skylight. On Deck 4, there is the Game Room; on Deck 3, the Study; and the Storyteller Lounge is on Deck 2.

There is an elevator connecting all but the top deck and the alleyways (corridors) are wide, allowing easy access for scooters and wheelchairs, making the Serenade a good choice for those with mobility issues. On our cruise, which was almost completely full, the average age was in the 60s and 70s but included guests in their 40s and 50s and all the way up into their 90s.

Sensible Staterooms & Suites

There are five all outside suite and stateroom categories, ranging from 615 square foot Grand Suites (which have a separate bedroom, a living and dining room and a bathroom with tub) to spacious 350-square foot Veranda Suites, 300-square foot Premium Balcony staterooms, 275-square foot Standard Balconies and 250-square foot Single Balcony rooms.

Our stateroom, number 235 on aft/port Deck 2 was a Deluxe Balcony category measuring 315 square feet. It was well laid out with a small balcony that we sparingly used due to the cold and often wet weather conditions (versus the summer season, which has bugs and often relentless heat).

The muted blue and white color scheme was a nice complement to the dark wood tones and featured two twin beds with under bed suitcase storage, a flat screen television, a large dresser, two nightstands, a desk, two chairs, a tallboy wardrobe, and handy shelves for smaller items.

There was a coffee maker with a selection of pods, two USB ports and two American style plugs. Ample drawers in the bathroom sink console were great for personal items and the provided toiletries included soap, shower gel, shampoo, conditioner and body lotion. The showers have a glass door that opens outward and there are both rainforest and handheld nozzles.

VIDEO: Below, Peter takes us on a detailed video tour of his cabin, #235.

Packing For A Winter Mississippi Cruise In February

As for packing, during the early season cooler months, layers are highly recommended, along with comfortable shoes for excursion-filled, occasionally rainy days. Hats, scarves and possibly even gloves were appropriate for the coldest days. On our trip, it was never warm enough for shorts, but gym clothes came in handy for the fitness centers and the one or two runs we were able to squeeze in.

This is a very informal boat, so save the luggage and closet space for essentials and leave the fancy clothes behind. In the evening, button down, long sleeved and polo shirts were fine for the guys and for the ladies, comfortable pant suits and blouses did the trick.

What’s Included? Just About Everything.

American includes a few extras like a hotel stay the night prior to the cruise, gratuities, at least one complimentary excursion in each port (in addition to premium excursions for a fee), a complimentary cocktail hour each eve, wine and beer service in the afternoon and evening, and Starlink Wifi, which worked nicely throughout the voyage.

From The Big Easy To The Big Muddy

American provided an overnight at the Intercontinental Hotel, which is right in the heart of downtown and within walking distance of the French Quarter and numerous cafes and attractions. When we arrived, New Orleans was literally hung over, recovering from Mardi Gras, which ended the day prior, with beads and confetti still hanging from trees and posts and scattered along the sidewalks.

On the morning of departure, a buffet breakfast was provided at the hotel, along with a transfer to the boat, which was docked at the cruise terminal, along with Viking’s much larger Viking Mississippi. It was a warm and balmy day…at first.

READ MORE: Cruise expert Aaron Saunders compares American's vs Viking’s offerings on the Mississippi.

With all aboard at 1:45 PM, there was a safety muster and then an introduction of the officers in the Lounge as the Serenade cast her lines for her upstream journey.

Shortly after sailing, just as we began a lighthearted shuffleboard match on aft Deck 5, it began to hail onto the outer decks, quickly dissipating but not before the temperature dropped about 20 degrees. Our shuffleboard skills are not particularly good and the industrial landscapes in the New Orleans sector of the Mississippi are fascinating but not terribly scenic, so we felt no pangs retreating inside for the rest of the afternoon and evening.

At 4:00 PM, there was a briefing by Jim Schweikart, our excellent enrichment lecturer, about the upcoming ports of call and things we might see along the way. Following that, there was cocktail hour, a daily ritual with cheeses assorted canapés and dips, that is provided in the Lounge between 5:30 and 7:00.

Dining, American Style

We arrived early for our first dinner, which is offered between 5:30 and 7:30 PM and rather naively asked for a table for two before realizing it was open seating and we could just sit wherever we liked. American makes no pretenses at providing what it calls “Classic American fare with a regional flair.”

In the South, that means a lot of butter, breaded and fried courses, Cajun spices and rich gravies and sauces. Sampling from one menu, there was a choice of two appetizers, such as Strawberry and Almond Salad with arugula, shaved red onions, goat cheese and a white balsamic dressing or Cauliflower Bisque with Bacon Pico De Gallo.

There was usually a choice of five entrees such as a vegetarian (Zucchini Parmesan with capellini noodles and tomato basil sauce), a chicken dish (Breaded Free-range Chicken Breast with Creole Cream Sauce, mozzarella and linguini), a fish (Pan-Seared Southern Grouper with shrimp creamed corn, cheddar grits and red bean salsa) and a meat dish (BBQ Spiced and Slow Roasted Pork Belly (with Caribbean rice and peas and collard greens with smoked bacon).

For dessert, there was usually a choice of two, such as Sweet Potato Pie or Carrot Cake and a selection of ice creams. Overall, the food quality was good and the service was very friendly but sometimes a little awkward as the staff were either new to the vessel or getting reacquainted after the winter break.

Lunch is a bit more concise with a choice of three entrees that at times were a bit challenging for my mostly vegetarian palate. On one menu, there was a Grilled Shrimp and Peach Salad (served over mixed greens, shredded cabbage, cornbread croutons and a rum spiced vinaigrette), a Southern Jambalaya (Cajun seasoned chicken and andouille sausage with bell peppers, celery and long grain steamed rice) and a Black and Blue Burger (beef burger topped with blue cheese on a brioche roll).

And with lunch, there was a choice of two desserts, such as a Triple Berry Crisp with blueberries, blackberries and raspberries under a crispy oat topping or assorted ice creams. Or both.

When the lunch menu wasn’t to my liking or when we were short on time, we headed to the Back Porch Cafe in the Sky Lounge on aft Deck 4, where there was a menu of tasty offerings like tortilla chips, fresh fruit, tomato and cucumber salad, chicken Caesar salad, hot dogs, chicken salad wraps and hamburgers or veggie burgers. The Back Porch also has snacks available throughout the day, including trail mix, protein bars and chips, along with a very well-used espresso machine and water bottle refilling stations.

The Back Porch was also a convenient go-to on mornings when we had early shore excursions.  It had a nice spread of pastries, fresh fruit and parfaits as well as oatmeal and breakfast sandwiches made to order. Fresh baked cookies are also offered here between 10:00 AM and 3:00 PM

Breakfast in the dining room is full service with specials of the day like Eggs Benedict or Waffles. Menu offerings include Eggs any style, Omelets with a choice of ingredients, Buttermilk Pancakes, Gulf Shrimp or Green Onion and Dill Quiche. Yogurts, berry cups, fruit cups and cereals are also available along with oatmeal, grits, bacon, sausage, ham and breakfast potatoes along with a choice of juices (orange, apple and cranberry).

Snacks like fresh popcorn, chips and desserts are also offered up in the Lounge at 8:00 PM during the evening entertainment.

There is no room service.

Tours, Glorious Tours!

Our first port of call was Vacherie, LA, on a picture post card perfect day, illuminated by perpetual sunshine and the occasional wispy cloud, despite the temperature hovering in the upper 30’s. After breakfast, we headed off on excursion to the Whitney Plantation, which unlike several other plantations in the region, is not a showcase of Antebellum splendor, grand staircases and crystal chandeliers. Whitney tells the story of the enslaved people who cooked, cleaned and worked in the dangerous cane fields, while subjected to deplorable conditions. It gives names and, in some cases, faces, to those who were considered property and traded as such.

It also tells of the German Coast slave uprising led by Charles Deslondes and the brutal executions by beheading of those who rebelled. During our self-guided tour of the grounds, our multiple layers, scarves and head covers/hats came in very handy. I was very grateful to ACL for providing such an enlightening excursion.

We had just enough time to eat lunch back on the boat before our next excursion, the “Cajun Swamp Adventure,” which takes guests to a nearby swamp to board flat bottomed boats for a ride to see alligators and other wildlife. Not only did we see alligators galore, but dozens of raccoons that came up alongside the boat (where they took marshmallows from our guide’s hand with their paws) and wild boars that are potentially as dangerous and far more aggressive than the gators.

The beautiful and cool weather was also a major plus — as we were told in the summer it is unbearably hot and full of bugs — along with a few indifferent and rather adorable turtles. It was quite an adventure and a perfect complement to the morning’s more introspective outing.

That evening on the boat, Jim Schweikart debriefed us on our next port of call, Baton Rouge and Louisiana’s colorful governor, Huey Long, whose legacy remains a major part of the city, despite being assassinated 91 years ago.  Jim’s presentations were always informative and entertaining and he can play a mean guitar, to boot.

After dinner, a husband-and-wife bluegrass duo performed in the Lounge. While Bluegrass is not my usual soundtrack, they were an ideal choice for the region and their musicianship shined.

On the third day, after a brief spell of rain, we headed off on the morning tour to the Myrtles, a 1796-built mansion that has a rather torrid history and reputed paranormal activity, making it one of Louisiana’s most popular attractions. The guides were wonderful and the outside grounds were especially beautiful with all of the magnolias in full bloom.

After lunch, we embarked on the second tour, “The Baton Rouge City Experience, “which took us to the State Capitol, a miniature version of the Empire State Building that at a “mere” 24 stories, makes it the tallest state capitol in the U.S. The brainchild of Huey Long, the building, while considered impractical, is very impressive for its Art Deco facade and its magnificent lobby and halls, which are festooned with dramatic murals, marble, gorgeous woodwork and brass.

We took the elevator to the observation deck for a fantastic view of the Mississippi and Baton Rouge and even found the bullet holes in the foyer wall where Long was assassinated. The few minutes we had at the end of the tour gave us just a peek at the Capitol Park Museum, directly across the street, so we’ll have to go back and do a full tour one day.

Schweikert, himself, was the musical evening entertainment, regaling us with a myriad of guitar-oriented songs that spanned numerous eras, from Bluegrass to the Beatles. Well done, American, for getting a skilled musician and a great lecturer in one.

Getting Down & Muddy In Natchez

In Natchez, which is often called “The Little Easy” and is easily one of my favorite Mississippi River hamlets, we opted for another double excursion day. The morning tour took us to the heart of town, which is at the top of a bluff overlooking the bend in the river where American Serenade berthed. Our first stop was the Rosalie, an Antebellum mansion with the cachet of having most of its period decor intact. The guides explained that due to Natchez not putting up a huge fight against the Yankees, the homes and their contents were spared from ransacking and burning. The next stop was the Basilica of St. Mary and a gazebo overlooking the river on yet another chilly but picture-perfect day.

The second excursion, “The Great River Outdoor Adventure,” I did at my partner Mike’s urging, since driving all-terrain vehicles, archery and tomahawk throwing are not necessarily in my comfort zone. But once we were convoying along with fellow guests through the Mississippi farmland and forest, I let down my guard and began to savor every vertebrae-rattling moment.

Our guide was upbeat, fun and patient, especially when it came to the archery and tomahawk throwing lessons, and the weather, once again, was perfect. It was cool but not too cold and since we were early in the season, there were few, if any, bugs.

My advice to anyone taking the Lower Mississippi cruise with American is that they consider this tour — even if sounds like the antithesis of what they’d enjoy — and plan to get a little muddy.

We returned to the Serenade early enough to freshen up and then head off to the historic Under The Hill Saloon that Mark Twain reportedly frequented. Today, it’s filled with riverboat ephemera and has dollar bills stuck to the ceiling from patrons who mastered the art of pitching their spare currency into the rafters but it was once one of the most notorious bars on the Mississippi. Brawls and gunfights were commonplace, and legend has it that there was even a trap door where bodies could be dropped into the river.

After dinner on board, we marched off to the Lounge for another highlight of the trip, a blues performance by Chris Gill and the Sole Shakers, a five member Jackson, Mississippi band with a storytelling drummer and a singer who could give Aretha and Nina Simone a run for their money.

Not only was it the best thing we saw on the trip (and all of the music was good) but one of the best performances I have seen on any river boat — and I’m a jaded former music business survivor.

Vicksburg To Cleveland

In Vicksburg, the next day, we decided to take it easy and do the local loop, ACL’s version of a Hop-On, Hop-Off. The first stop was at Tully’s Caves, a replica to show what it was like for the Vicksburg residents who were besieged by the Yankee shelling in 1863 and forced to dig out makeshift shelters in the hillside.

When we realized everything was within easy walking distance, we then explored on our own, stopping at the Old State Capitol before heading onwards to the Biedenharn Coca-Cola Museum, which had some wonderful period advertising and other ephemera related to the beverage, which was first bottled in Vicksburg in 1939.

An especially nice touch with ACL is that our ship ID cards granted us free admission to all the local museums, including the fascinating and moving Civil War Museum, which tells the story of the Civil War with an emphasis on the experiences of the enslaved African Americans.

For me, a visit to the Lower Mississippi River Museum was a must, to see the preserved Army Corps Of Engineers towboat Mississippi IV from 1961, which was hauled up on land to become a tourist attraction.

We finished off at the Old Depot Museum, which is on the National Register of Historic Places, formerly the train depot and is now a museum dedicated to transportation.

Shortly after our return to the American Serenade, she began sailing off to her next port of call but then strangely slowed and backed up next to a series of barges. There was some sort of mechanical issue that needed to be addressed but once she was cleared that evening, she sailed off to the Mississippi (Vicksburg is actually located on a canal adjacent to the river) and continued her upstream journey.

That evening, we were treated to Mississippi Marshall, an acclaimed blues singer, performing in the Sun Lounge.

Cleveland & Memphis

On Day Five, we berthed at the Terrine Landing on a remote stretch of the Mississippi some 20 minutes via coach from Cleveland, where the morning tour took us to the local railroad museum and the Grammy Museum.

There must be something musically inspired about cities and towns named for Grover Cleveland with the one in Ohio being home to the Rock and Roll Hall Of Fame and the one in Mississippi hosting the Grammy Museum. We had time to enjoy several interactive exhibits, some interesting costumes and lots of ephemera from Grammy-winning artists. It was interesting to note just how many major artists came from Mississippi, from Elvis to Muddy Waters, B.B. King, Howlin’ Wolf, Jimmy Buffet, Tammy Wynette and Robert Johnson.

RELATED: Here's Jackie Sheckler Finch’s review of an American “Music Cities” cruise.

Back on board that afternoon, we finally had a chance to soak up some river cruising time. (Note, there were only three afternoons of cruising — the first, totally industrial; the second, after Vicksburg, we missed due to the ship’s mechanical issue; and the third, closer to Memphis, was more scenic with trees and foliage along the banks. I think it is safe to say the Mississippi gets better the farther north you go.)

It was still a bit chilly to spend much time on deck, but we did enjoy watching the scenery through our full-length stateroom window and the Lounge. The always dependable Jim Schweikert gave a great talk about river life and lore, there was a culinary demonstration (how to make crawfish boil), and a veteran’s appreciation ceremony for veterans and their family members.

Another very full day awaited at what was originally scheduled as Memphis, where we would overnight before disembarking. Instead of the usual Beale Street Landing in the heart of Memphis, we berthed at Tunica Park Dock, some 30 miles and an hour’s drive from Memphis (Crew told us that there was not enough water for us to dock at Beale Street.) We had booked a full day tour that was extended by a couple hours to accommodate that drive, beginning with Graceland.

ACL’s tour provides the VIP experience, which includes a private minivan, a lunch credit and access to all of the exhibits. This was my second visit to Graceland and even with a five or so hour window, I found it almost exhausting trying to see everything.

iOur tour also included some Memphis highlights like Sun Studios, where so many hits were recorded, the Lorraine Motel, where Martin Luther King was assassinated, a quick visit to Beale Street, home of the Blues and a chance to see the ducks in the lobby of the Peabody Hotel.

READ ABOUT OTHER AMERICAN CRUISES: Quirky's Heidi Sarna reviews a Chesapeake Bay Cruise with American Cruise Lines.

LEARN MORE: Here's a review of a Columbia & Snake Rivers cruise aboard the American Harmony.

Wrapping Things Up

The following morning after breakfast, ACL provided a transfer to either the airport or the visitor’s center next to the Beale Street Landing. Our flights were in the late afternoon, so we opted for the visitor’s center, where we met a friend who took us around town and then to the airport.

Did we miss the over the top Antebellum-inspired trappings and atmosphere of the steamboats?  Yes, as steamboat buffs, of course we did, but to their credit, American has provided a sensible alternative with a comfortable, well-laid out vessel with all the necessary creature comforts.

And most importantly, by providing a wide selection of well-curated tours, a great on-board lecturer and a full spectrum of talented local musicians, we were able to steep ourselves in the history and lore of the region without being enveloped by it.

And personally, while I realize everyone has their preferences, the early season cool weather was an added plus, especially if, like me, bugs and humidity are not your cup of tea.

Interested In This Wintertime Lower Mississippi Cruise?

All-inclusive fares for 7-night February wintertime Lower Mississippi River cruises start as low as $4,295 per person (nearly half of what you’d often pay in the high-season months of May – October), including all meals; wine, beer and cocktails throughout most of day; daily shore excursions; pre-cruise hotel stay; expert onboard lectures; and crew gratuities.

 

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