Rideau Canal Houseboat Adventure in Canada with Le Boat — A Must Do Small Ship Cruise

Rideau Canal Houseboat Adventure in Canada

By Judi Cohen.

After 17 months of COVID lockdowns here in Canada, I jumped in with both feet to plan a Rideau Canal houseboat adventure just a two-hour drive from my hometown in Toronto. This was no ordinary adventure for a family of “landlubbers” with no previous boating experience.

For four days my husband and I along with our daughter, Alison, and her one-year-old Samoyed puppy, Joni, made memories captaining a luxury houseboat provided by LeBoat Vacations on Ontario’s iconic Rideau Canal.

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Judi & her two-legged & four-legged family at their Le Boat for the week. * Photo: Michael

Engineered and constructed in the early 19th century, the Rideau Canal is 202km of lakes, rivers, locks and 29km of canal “cuts” between Ottawa and Kingston.

Rideau Canal is one of Canada’s 19 UNESCO World Heritage Sites, and the only one in Ontario.

The plan to construct a navigable waterway between Lake Ontario and the Ottawa River was conceived after the War of 1812. Designed to provide a secure supply route from Montreal to Kingston, avoiding the St. Lawrence route, Rideau Canal was built between 1826 and 1832.

It’s the only canal dating from the great North American canal-building era of the early 19th century to remain operational along its entire original line, with most structures still intact.

Lieutenant Colonel John By supervised the construction, and you’ll see his name immortalized along the way.

Managed by Parks Canada as a National Historic site, 45 locks and 23 lockstations operate between May and October, coinciding with LeBoat’s rental season. Each lock is unique and all but two are operated manually as constructed.

The Rideau Canal route.

Our “Horizon 2” Rideau Canal Houseboat

The luxury Horizon 2 houseboat, in the top “Premier” level of Le Boat’s three categories of boats, was an ideal choice for our family of three adults. It had two cabins, each with an ensuite bathroom, accessed from the main deck. The beds can be configured as singles or doubles in both cabins.

Our master cabin was cozy (i.e., small as we expected!) with a closet for hanging clothes and ample storage space. We had to slide carefully onto the bed not to hit our heads on a bulkhead, so flexibility is a must!

The cozy master cabin. * Photo: Le Boat

On first glance, the bed did not “look” comfortable, but we were proven wrong by our restful sleeps every night. Perhaps the combination of the fresh air and the lapping of the water contributed to our deep sleep success.

My daughter found the second cabin configured with two single beds to be comfortable and quiet for sleeping.

TIP: One bath towel and hand towel are provided for each person, so you may want to bring more, and beach towels are a must.

The galley, on the main deck has a large eat-in table, and was complete with stove, oven, microwave, coffee maker, tea kettle and small fridge (but no freezer).

The galley & “living room” below decks. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Dishes, glasses and flatware were sparkling clean. Cooking and BBQ utensils are all provided as are dishcloths. Ice is available at stores along the way.

There is also a video monitor with built-in DVD player and HDMI hookup, as well as USB ports located throughout the boat. The main steering position is located on the Main Deck with an auxiliary position on the upper sundeck.

TIP: Pack dish soap, sponges, paper towels and spices since they are not provided. Also, bring along a cooler for beverages, as the refrigerator is small.

We spent most of our days on the outdoor “fun deck,” with its BBQ grill, sink, large dining table and seating. We preferred to drive the boat from the steering position on the top deck and adjusted the large overhead sunshade as needed.

Life is lived up on deck! * Photo: Judi Cohen

The three of us took turns stretching out on the adjustable loungers to catch a few rays, daydream, and admire the homes with their Canadian flags and well-manicured lawns along the shores.

TIP: You may want to bring your own portable sun-chairs to use on the deck, docks, and beaches, since the loungers on the top deck are fixed to the boat.

No Boat Driving Experience Needed

No previous boating experience is required to captain a LeBoat Rideau Canal houseboat. Even so, being houseboat virgins, getting ready to captain an expensive 38-foot (11.5metre) boat is scary.

My husband even asked if we had taken the collision waiver insurance!

Just minutes after we wheeled our belongings on to the boat in Smith Falls, Ontario, our one-hour onboard training course began.

We were assured it did not matter that we had never captained a boat previously.

Curtis, our trainer from LeBoat took out the navigational charts and training books, and walked us through how to read the charts, turn the motor on, use the thrusters, tie knots, and understand emergency procedures.

He showed us how to read the information gauges and operate the stove, BBQ, and cooling system. Before we knew it Curtis inserted the key, engaged the engine and we were cruising.

Curtis told us he would stay on the boat to go through our first lock (just 15 minutes into our cruise) and park along the blue painted line on the dock to wait for the lockmaster to call out instructions to us. Parking along the blue line signified we wanted to pass through the lock.

Once in the lock, with the water level rising to the top of the chamber, Curtis stepped back onto the dock, smiled and bid us a safe and fun time on the Rideau.

My husband took command of the captain’s chair, pushed the throttle with the conviction of a starship captain and we were off!

We piloted the boat slowly and carefully out of the first lock, and our concerns soon disappeared.

While it does take some time to get “your sea legs,” a lot about piloting the boat was intuitive, like driving a car.

Judi’s daughter Alison at the wheel, dad as second mate. * Photo: Judi Cohen

My husband lost his captain privileges when he failed to understand that turns to the left or right take time and he had a tendency to over-steer. With much fanfare, Lawrence removed the captain’s hat and passed it to Alison who had clearly listened better to what Curtis taught us. With a steady hand on the wheel, she assumed command.

The boat had “bumpers” and speed is wisely limited to 10 kph so we couldn’t zoom down the canal (not that we wanted to!). The charts provided by Le Boat were excellent, and we found out on the first day that thankfully they were waterproof!

We shared the LeBoat binoculars to read buoy numbers, see any boats around us and watch for water level markers.

During our four days, we only passed a few boats as it was midweek and the COVID restrictions hadn’t fully lifted yet.

Le Boat docked for the evening. * Photo: Judi Cohen

At the various docks and harbours, there were never more than four other LeBoat houseboaters, and we eagerly exchanged stories about where we’d been and asked for suggestions about our next stop.

TIP: If you are a novice, spend a little time beforehand learning about basic navigation. Make sure you have a data plan on your phone. Google Maps was very helpful as a supplement to the maps and navigation guides on board.

We also downloaded the Navionics “Boating Marine and Lakes” app. It has a free trial period, and we found it very helpful.

Doing your homework certainly can’t hurt! * Photo: Judi Cohen

Our Rideau Canal Route

On the advice of Lisa McLeod, head of marketing for LeBoat in North America, we went south from Smiths Falls to enjoy the wide-open lakes and fringing forest. We planned a slow cruise to take in the splendor of the region.

We cruised an average of three to four hours each day including passage through the locks. LeBoat accommodates the option of a one-way cruise if you don’t want to do a round-trip.

The route. * Photo: Le Boat

Day 1 – Smiths Falls to Beveridges Lock

I can’t lie… Even upon completion of the training course with our “Certificate of Competency” tucked away in our boat file, a little tinge of panic set in as soon as Curtis jumped off our boat in Smiths Falls.

We asked each other:

“Should we be on the left or right side of the red buoys?”

“Will we find a space at a dock overnight?”

“How will we get through the next locks?”

“How, exactly, will we park a big boat like this?”

A general sense of calm quickly set in once we were cruising. The boat is equipped with thrusters that move the boat easily from side to side.

If you can use a video game controller, I assure you, you can operate the boat thrusters.

We passed through Poonamalie Lock, an odd name dating back to the time of construction when the cedars in the area reminded one of the British soldiers of a previous posting in Poonamallee, India, where the British army was based.

Once through the lock, time flew by for the next hour and a half until we docked at the picturesque Beveridges Lock. We connected our boat to the shore power and took Joni for a much-needed walk.

We hiked up to Upper Beveridges Lock and admired the Parks Canada glamping tents, called oTENTiks, and returned in time for pre-dinner cocktails.

Judi at the Upper Beveridges Lock. * Photo: Lawrence Cohen

The three of us listened to music and relaxed on the top deck while sipping chilled cabernet franc rose from Pelee Island, Ontario, as the sun disappeared behind the clouds.

Dining Alfresco at the Beveridges Lock. * Photo: Judi Cohen

For dinner we made steaks perfectly seared on the BBQ grill, and soon after we tucked into our comfortable beds. Even the thunder and lightning of a night storm didn’t bother us.

The pounding of the heavy rain seemed to charge the air with freshness, only experienced outside of a big city. The sheet lightning across the night sky was even more dramatic without any light pollution.

Day 2 — Beveridges Lock to Westport

Awakened by the chirping of birds and the voices of a father and son fishing across the canal, we got up and cooked eggs and bacon on the grill and enjoyed our coffee under a sunny sky.

Two other LeBoat Rideau Canal houseboats that overnighted at Beveridges Lock were departing around the same time.

Parks Canada staff, who are always around the locks to assist boaters, helped with the ropes and guided Alison on the use of the thrusters to move away from the dock and turn the boat.

With smiles and waves, our Parks Canada helpers released the ropes once we were pointed in the right direction. Bye Bye!

Next, we were off to Westport, a quaint old town with bars, ice cream parlours, bakeries, and small shops selling decorations for house and garden, jewelry and casual beachwear.

Joni was happily perched on the forward deck, tongue out and hair blowing, for our three-hour cruise to Westport.

Joni enjoying the ride! * Photo: Judi Cohen

We docked along the “blue line” waiting to pass through the Narrows Lock. We thought it odd to have a lock in the middle of a lake and learned that it was a strategic decision made during the construction of the canal.

Heading towards the Narrows Lock blue line. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Oddly, it had to do with malaria and bedrock. When they were trying to excavate the canal and cut through “The Isthmus,” the watershed divide, near Newboro, they encountered hard bedrock. Seasonal malaria also affected the workers.

So, to speed up construction, Lt. Colonel By came up with a plan to build a dam and lock at a natural narrowing of the lake. This raised the level of the portion of Rideau Lake on the west side of the Narrows, “creating” Upper Rideau Lake.

The wind had picked up just as we were approaching the lock and water was very wavy. Parks Canada staff came over to our boat and suggested fastening everything down, closing all the windows and putting Joni inside for safety. The lockmaster instructed us on how to power through the winds and waves.

As newbie captains and crew, we didn’t know the wind speed nor the wave heights. When another boater offered to captain our boat through the canal, we knew this was not an everyday weather event!

Always up for a challenge, Captain Alison respectfully declined the offer of assistance and instead relied on the Parks Canada advice.

Parks staff threw the ropes to us and, eventually we were off. Once on the other side, after about five minutes, we could hear loud cheering and everyone at the lock was waving wildly. We gave each other “high fives” and then cruised onward.

We followed the buoys and docked at the Westport Municipal Harbour. Charming downtown Westport was just on the other side of a pedestrian bridge.

The shopkeepers were all thrilled to welcome visitors back after COVID and we were equally thrilled to support them by buying butter tarts, brownies, breads, ice cream, clothing and other trinkets, like costume jewelry and sunglasses. We also loaded up on ice for the cooler and groceries at the supermarket.

Downtown Westport. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Our dinner at the Scheuermann Winery was our first meal out of our home in eight months. Tables were spread out on the flat lands of the winery surrounded by row upon row of grape vines.

The winery is dog-friendly and we were greeted by three of the winery’s large dogs.

Judi & Lawrence at the Scheuermann Vineyard and Winery in Westport. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The waitress brought Joni a bowl of ice water. With a wood-burning open flame pizza oven and a couple of large charcoal BBQ grills, the food was prepared outdoors and brought to the tables by smiling waitstaff. Following a delicious meal, we shared strawberry shortcake made with Ontario strawberries.

Before returning to our boat, we took in a spectacular sunset view of our boat in Westport Harbour from Spy Rock in the 350-hectare (800-acre) Foley Mountain Conservation Area.

Alison & Joni on the mountain overlooking Westport. * Photo: Judi Cohen

It is the highest conservation area in the Rideau Valley, overlooking Upper Rideau Lake and Westport.

At the end of the day, we sipped wine on the top deck listening to Joni Mitchell’s song “A Case of You,” reflecting on how nice it felt to be disconnected from the rest of the world for even a short time.

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Sunset on the canal, in Westport. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 3 — Westport to Colonel By Island

All was quiet in Westport when we awoke on Sunday morning. We took Joni out for a morning walk through the downtown area and then Ali and Lawrence went to an off-leash dog park close by for Joni to play and run around with other dogs.

We cruised back through a much calmer Narrows Lock, before changing course and carrying on for four hours to “Colonel By Island.” It’s the largest “island” in a set of “islands” collectively known as “Long Island.” We passed what seemed like hundreds of small islands with trees and small cabins, and all species of birds including ospreys, gulls, ducks, loons and Canada geese.

Approaching Colonel By Island we saw boats at mooring balls offshore, but we happily eyed one space at the dock — a better option for walking the dog and exploring the island.

Docked at Colonel By Island. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Docking Spaces cannot be reserved, so we were told to get to our overnight locations early in the afternoon.

On shore, we found a small rocky beach with crystal clear warm water, where Joni enjoyed a refreshing dip!

A large dilapidated flat-roofed house, known as Wags Lodge and built in 1949-50, was visible from the path. Alison and Lawrence played tennis in the rundown tennis court with old racquets and balls they found on a picnic table inside the court. The house is listed on the register of Canada’s Historic Places.

We imagined the house in its heyday when the eccentric owner, Danny Arnstein, co-owner of Yellow Cab in New York and Chicago, hosted lavish parties with Hollywood celebrities including Allan Ladd, Jane Powell, David Niven, Fanny Boyle and Paul Anka. It’s been said that Arnstein also brought company employees to spend vacations on the Rideau.

Danny Arnstein’s house. * Photo: Judi Cohen

With no services, shops or restaurants on the island and only a handful of boats in sight, we felt like we’d gone camping in a remote forest. The weather was ideal for alfresco dining, so we prepared an Italian meal made with fresh peppers and bocconcini cheese paired with a 2018 Pinot Noir 2018 that we purchased at the Scheuermann Winery in Westport.

Lunch Alfresco tied up at Colonel By Island. * Photo: Judi Cohen

The moon shone brightly over the water, creating an eerie atmosphere. Even with our music playing on the top deck, we could hear the loons calling.

We retired for our last sleep in our comfortable, cool cabins. Another satisfying day on our Rideau Canal houseboat had come to an end.

Camp first along the way. * Photo: Judi Cohen

Day 4 — Colonel By Island to Rideau Ferry & Poonamalie Locks to Smith Falls   

With the smell of last night’s campfire still in air, we enjoyed our last breakfast of yogurt, berries and hot coffee on the top deck.

Soon, we were planning our departure from the dock. Since other expensive looking boats were parked close to us, it was no surprise that the private boat owners offered to assist our exit! Haha!!

On our way from Colonel By Island to Smiths Falls we took in our last romantic views of the stately cottages and colourful wood Muskoka chairs (also known as Adirondack Chairs) on the docks and dotting the shores.

Judi poses in a Muskoka chair in Smith Falls! * Photo: Lawerence Cohen

Once through Poonamalie Lock we had a short 30-minute cruise to Smiths Falls to return our boat.

Watching the fluffy clouds dancing in the bright blue sky, and the still water parting around our boat, we couldn’t help but wish we had more time to cruise further down the canal towards Kingston.

Had we had the time off work, we would have chosen a week-long trip with enough time to cruise either to Kingston or Ottawa.

I loved seeing my daughter Alison navigate confidently through the narrow canal between rock outcroppings with Joni right by her side.

Our family holiday on LeBoat is one we will never forget. It marked the beginning of new adventures and affirmed what life will soon again be like.

Captain Alison and Crew Member Joni. * Photo Judi Cohen

Looking Forward to our Next LeBoat Adventure

We reflected on how much we loved our comfy beds, how different and wonderful it felt to learn together and support each other captaining and navigating the boat. Just being on the water was relaxing and, strangely, grounding.

The three of us were grateful for the opportunity to disconnect from day-to-day issues, and reconnect with our spirit of adventure, being in the moment with nature. And it was satisfying to drive our own boat, and be the masters of our destinies for a few days.

This was slow travel at its best allowing us to silence our minds and heal our souls after so much stress and uncertainty. We agreed to come back for a week-long Rideau Canal houseboat experience soon, and to book a LeBoat in Europe, possibly in the Camargue in France.

We’ll be back …. * Photo: Alison Cohen

Why Go?

• For a luxury boating experience with all the comforts of home
• For an opportunity to learn to captain your own boat without having previous boating experience
• To see and learn about the historic Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site
• For a cruise experience that is dog-friendly. You can take up to two dogs and there is only a minor cleaning fee charged
• Cooking is a pleasure with a full kitchen and a BBQ grill and sink on the top deck

Caveats?

• The weather can be unpredictable so you’ll need to bring rain gear
• While cellular phone service was always available, the internet speeds varied from LTE to 3G, so streaming and email service was spotty at times
• Be sure & make reservations ahead of time for meals on shore and tours of places like the Scheuermann Winery & Vineyard. We were there on a Saturday night and it was completely full!

Planning a LeBoat Rideau Canal Houseboat Trip

LeBoat is part of Travelopia, one of the world’s largest adventure travel companies.

Now in its fourth season in Canada, Le Boat has 24 “Premier Horizon” boats operating along the Rideau Canal (in other markets, Le Boat also offers more budget options).

• Boats range in size from two to five cabins, sleeping from two-12 people
• Each cabin has a private bathroom with a private shower
• The boats come with a fully equipped eat-in kitchen
• There are two driving positions (indoor and outdoor)
• Each has a top deck with loungers, table and grill

LeBoat has been operating in Europe since 1969 with boating holidays in France, Belgium, Scotland, Ireland, The Netherlands, Italy and Germany with a fleet of over 950 boats.

Due to popular demand of the luxury style houseboats in Canada, LeBoat is already planning expansion to other Ontario waterways. Stay tuned …

Rideau Canal Houseboat Cost

Getting There 

If you are arriving by plane, the closest international airport is Ottawa, Ontario and you could rent a car for the 1-hour drive to the LeBoat Base in Smiths Falls.  From Toronto it is a three-hour drive.

Weather 

Ontario weather is warmest in the summer months of June, July and August with highs of 27 degrees and lows of 14 degrees.

May and October are cooler months with highs of 19 degrees and lows of 7 degrees (low season).

With the changing of the leaves in the fall, September and October are ideal months for leaf-peeping (high season).

It is always safest to take rain gear and to dress in layers that can adjusted throughout the day.

Rideau Canal Houseboat Season

The entire season is May through October, with the low season being May and September.

More Information 

Contact LeBoat at www.leboat.ca and let them know you read about them on QuirkyCruise.com and we’ll send you a free travel-friendly Turkish towel adorned with our cute logo!

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