By Art Sbarsky.
I enjoyed a 10-night summertime trip to Paris and points north in France cruising the Seine River aboard the SCENIC GEM. Along the way, there were riverside cities and nearby towns filled with history, local culture and some amazing sites. On board, it was all about outstanding food and wines, terrific service and a splendid atmosphere. Everything was seamlessly and smoothly organized.
The very name of the company, Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours (an Australian company gaining greater awareness in the United States) nicely describes the overall experience I enjoyed in late August/early September. There is so much scenery to take in on a river cruise that the time spent sailing between ports is the very essence of the trip itself — so different from an ocean-going cruise. On many river cruises, including this one, the deck staff has to take away upper deck furniture and lower the ship’s wheelhouse in order to pass under some of the low bridges along the way. Going through multiple locks is another highlight. So is just watching life along the banks of the river where people are going through their everyday lives or taking a break and picnicking along the shore.
This cruise began and ended in Paris. Our sailing back into Paris was perfectly timed by the ship’s management so we could get an outstanding evening view of the lit-up and twinkling Eiffel Tower and a miniature Statue of Liberty.
Seine River itinerary
Life aboard the ship was a delight. When full, SCENIC GEM carries only 128 guests in 64 rooms. The service was outstanding, whether from waitstaff in the dining room and bar, the reception desk or one’s cabin.
Scenic Gem Dining
Dining is French-oriented, but not exclusively. Every lunch and dinner featured a wide variety of French dishes. For example one night, the three entrée options were: Filet de Salmon Omble aux Epinards, Magrets de Canard et Confit d’Oignons au Cidre Pays d’Auge, and Le Ratatouille de Ratatouille. I’m not going to translate all of that, but basically it means Salmon, Duck and Ratatouille. Or guests could choose from the always-available entrée list and enjoy excellent steak or deliciously grilled chicken breast. My favorite food item was the chocolate croissants served fresh in the “alternate” breakfast area in the lounge: flakey, buttery, lighter-than-air, and full of delicious chocolate.
Scenic Gem Cabins
The rooms are nicely-sized with enough closet and drawer space for a couple, and the amenities are top-grade and include butler service. Linens and mattresses are truly comfy. There are plenty of free movies and music via the in-room entertainment system.
One feature especially sticks in my memory: the balcony window design. With the flick of a switch, the top half of the balcony window lowers down to the railing level making the sitting area (two chairs, small table) part of the room and allowing in fresh air and plenty of light. It’s amazing technology, and I suspect one of the big lines will steal the idea from the river ships.
A standard balcony cabin on the Scenic Gem. * Photo: Scenic
Scenic Gem Seine River Ports
Stops along the way included lesser known places such as Les Andelys, Caudebec-en-Caux and Conflans. Bus trips took us to Deauville and Versailles. Vernon is the port for Giverny, home to Monet’s house and gardens — more beautiful in person than any photograph.
The ship spent plenty of time in both Rouen and Honfleur so guests could take longer tours to sites and scenes of both World War I and II. From Honfleur, I found the time spent on Omaha Beach (the famous D-Day landing spot) and then the Normandy Cemetery and Visitors Center to be gut-wrenchingly powerful.
From Rouen, home of the cathedral church that Monet’s paintings made famous, the full-day tour to the famous Somme fighting area of WWI, which I didn’t know much about, was really informative and emotional. The best part was the cruise ended with a full day and overnight in Paris. All tours are included in the fare.
The Scenic Gem on the Seine River. * Photo: Scenic
On this cruise, there were bus trips to many locations away from the river, but that’s just the nature of the area. Excursions were beautifully organized and busses were clean and new. They never filled up all the seats so we could spread out; and the drivers and guides were excellent.
The 2014-built SCENIC GEM sports a fitness center, small spa, hair salon and mini outdoor pool with jets and in-pool recliners; wonderful amenities for a river boat. Fares include excursions; multiple dining venues; transfers; tips; butler service; the use of bicycles in port; and wine, spirits, beer and soft drinks throughout the cruise.
Scenic Gem’s impressive little gym * Scenic
Scenic is at the top of the rivership pyramid when it comes to the culinary parts, service and the ship itself. Fellow guests were primarily from Australia, Great Britain, Canada and the United States and they loved not having to deal with onboard costs.
Overall, does Scenic do a great job? Mais oui (that’s French for yes).
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HEIDI SARNA
