Viking Christmas Markets Cruise (2026) — A Review Of “Christmas On The Danube” In December

Viking Christmas Markets Cruise

By Donna Heiderstadt

I’m a big fan of the European capitals located along the Danube River — notably Budapest, Hungary; Vienna, Austria; and Bratislava, Slovakia — and I’ve visited them several times, always in spring or fall when temperatures average 60 to 75 degrees. Would I love each city just as much when the weather was colder and perhaps accompanied by rain or snow?

I was about to find out as I flew to Munich, Germany in early December for a seven-night “Christmas on the Danube” sailing aboard Viking Gullveig, one of the identical Longships in Viking’s European river fleet. It wasn’t my first time on a Longship — I’d cruised the Lower Danube from Budapest to Bucharest on Viking Embla in 2019 — but I was joined by my cousin, Ellen, who had never taken a river cruise. The novelty we were about to experience together was seeing some of Europe’s most legendary cities festively decorated for the holidays as we visited Christmas markets in four countries: Germany, Austria, Slovakia and Hungary.

Jetlag, temperatures in the mid-40s and light rain didn’t dissuade us from wanting to explore the picturesque German city of Regensburg after we’d boarded our ship and settled into our Veranda Stateroom (number 333). Luckily, Viking Gullveig was conveniently docked just several hundred yards from the city’s well-preserved medieval center and Viking offered a 90-minute Welcome Walk available to all guests.

Our knowledgeable guide, Nicolina, led us through Old Town’s highlights — the 12th-century Old Stone Bridge, Gothic-style St. Peter’s Cathedral and Neupfarrplatz square — and pointed out the locations of four Christmas markets, including a quick walk through the Christkindlmarkt at Neupfarrplatz with its twinkling lights and wooden stands selling glühwein (hot spiced wine) and grilled sausages. It was tease of what was to become a daily feast for the senses: festive town squares overflowing with holiday flavors and aromas but also jam-packed with crowds of locals and tourists.

Back aboard Viking Gullveig, Ellen and I headed to the Lounge for the welcome briefing and safety demonstration by the ship’s Hotel Manager, Krisztina, and Program Director, Edina. We each sipped a cocktail as part of our Silver Spirits Package as we listened to the plan for the week ahead and mingled with our fellow guests.

VIDEO: Have a look at Viking Gullvieg's Main Lounge, below, in Donna's brief video tour.

This was my 14th river cruise and on previous sailings the demographic had mostly been couples in their sixties and seventies. On this sailing, however, the Christmas theme had attracted a notably younger, multi-generational crowd. There were several adult mother-daughter pairs (all Viking guests must be at least 18) as well as two large groups of women wearing holiday-themed apparel that signaled an eagerness to embrace the Christmas spirit far beyond watching Hallmark holiday movies at home.

There was also a Christmas tree in the Lounge begging to be decorated and gingerbread dough waiting to be baked into giant gingerbread cookies. As we looked forward to again exploring Regensburg before Gullveig sailed for Passau, Ellen and I realized that we were about to enjoy nonstop Frohe Weihnachten and Boldog Karácsonyt (Merry Christmas in German and Hungarian), both onboard and in the holiday markets we’d visit.

The Story of Viking Gullveig

Viking Gullveig, which debuted in 2014, carries 190 guests and 53 crew and is named for the Viking goddess who was considered a powerful Norse seer. Translated, Gullveig means “gold branch,” which seemed delightfully apropos given all the aromatic pine branches strung with glittering gold ornaments that we’d encounter in the days ahead.

Viking Gullveig Cabins

The ship has 95 staterooms in five categories. These range from snug, 150-square-foot Standard Staterooms on the Main Deck, which have an eye-level window that’s just above the water line, to the two 445-square-foot Explorer Suites, which are located aft on the Upper Deck and have a separate sitting room and bedroom, a spacious bathroom and a wraparound balcony offering 270-degree views.

The majority are 205-square-foot Veranda Staterooms, like the one Ellen and I were sharing. Located on the Middle and Upper decks, each has sliding glass doors to a private balcony, which we never actually used given the chilly but not sub-freezing weather. The modern Scandinavian décor — blond wood accented with ivory and light blue in the fabrics and wall coverings — gives the space an airy feel, but with the bed separated into two twins, floor space felt a bit tight (205 square feet includes the balcony). The bathroom, like all on board, has heated floors, fragrant Freya toiletries and a roomy glass-enclosed shower, which is a trade-off that makes the toilet/sink area feel somewhat cramped.

VIDEO: Donna shows us her Viking Gullveig Veranda Stateroom, #333, below.

A larger option is one of the Veranda Suites on the Upper Deck. They are 275 square feet and have a sitting area with a balcony and a bedroom with a French balcony, plus a more spacious bathroom.

The smallest cabins are the French Balcony Staterooms, located on the Middle and Upper decks. At just 135 square feet, they offer floor-to-ceiling views through a sliding-glass door with a waist-high railing, but no outdoor space, and like Standard Staterooms, feature no chair other than the backless one that slides under the vanity/desk.

Dining & Public Areas

Viking Longships’ public spaces are notable for their contemporary Scandinavian decor. Guests generally enter via the Middle Deck into a sleek, light-filled atrium with a reception desk, a small retail area and a center stairway leading to the Upper and Main decks. To the ship’s aft on the Middle Deck is the open-seating Restaurant serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, while upstairs on the Upper Deck is a cozy library nook and the Lounge, the setting for lectures, cocktails, entertainment and scenic viewing.

VIDEO: Have a look at the Atrium area of the Viking Gullveig in Donna's video, below.

At the forward end of the Lounge is Aquavit Terrace, a second dining area with both indoor and outdoor seating. This space totally lives up to its potential in warmer weather when guests can dine outside surrounded by the Danube’s gorgeous scenery, but during winter its indoor area mostly serves as a smaller, less noisy spot to enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner (sometimes diners spill into the main Lounge, where small tables are set up, for more seating.)

VIDEO: Below, Donna shows us the indoor/outdoor Aquavit Terrace, which lives its best life when the weather is warmer.

 

Unlike peers AmaWaterways, Uniworld and others, Viking Longships do not have a gym, spa, pool or hot tub. There are chairs, loungers and a walking track on the Sun Deck, which is the only deck not reachable by the ship’s elevator. There are also no ADA-compliant accessible staterooms or suites on these vessels and guests who require a walker or portable wheelchair need to be able to navigate the gangway with the assistance of a helper to get on and off the ship.

Our “Christmas on the Danube” Itinerary

Here’s where we went on our seven-night cruise (Saturday afternoon to Saturday morning) from Regensburg, Germany to Budapest, Hungary; the route is opposite on alternating weeks.

Day 1: Regensburg, Germany (embark)

We were met at Munich International Airport and transferred to Regensburg, about one hour away, where Viking Gullveig docked overnight, giving us two days to explore.

Day 2: Regensburg, Germany (With Optional Tours to Munich)

Ellen and I took the included morning walking tour of Regensburg — our guide had us peek inside the Historische Wurstkuchl, a sausage house at the foot of the Old Stone Bridge that dates to the 14th century, so try to do so yourself. After lunch back on board we took an extra-cost tour to St. Emmeram Palace, which is the site of a lovely “Romantic” holiday market. Other guests opted for a full-day excursion to Munich to visit the Bavarian capital’s Christmas markets. That night in the Lounge, Edina handed out satin-finished silver and gold ornaments, which we decorated with markers and hung on the ship’s Christmas tree.

Day 3: Passau, Germany (with optional tours to Salzburg, Austria)

Viking Gullveig called on Passau, Germany. While the city is home to the Passauer Christkindlmarkt am Dom market (in Domplatz in front of baroque St. Stephen’s Cathedral), Ellen and I had snagged spots on the full-day, extra-cost Salzburg at Christmas excursion (it sells out, so book it as soon as you can). We headed off on a two-hour bus ride to the filming locale of “The Sound of Music” to enjoy cinematic nostalgia, Christmas market shopping and decadent local sweets.

Back on board, it was German Night, a celebration of sausages, sauerkraut, spätzle, strudel and beer.

Day 4: Wachau Valley Cruising & Krems, Austria

The day’s itinerary was going to be a whirlwind — weather permitting. Ellen and I had planned to join Edina in the Lounge or on the Sun Deck at 8:00 a.m. for a narrated passage through Austria’s scenic Wachau Valley. When we pulled back our stateroom curtains at 7:30 a.m., however, we saw nothing but a thick wall of fog. We shrugged and slept in, later, grabbing an early lunch before the ship docked in Krems and we joined the included Gottweig Abbey at Christmas excursion. The experience was otherworldly as fog swirled around the hilltop UNESCO World Heritage Site’s medieval chapel and Baroque towers and church

Back aboard Gullveig that afternoon, the kitchen team handed out freshly-baked, foot-tall gingerbread cookies, which we decorated with frosting and candy bits. Next, professional dancers gracefully demonstrated the Viennese waltz and invited anyone eager to learn to join them for lessons as we cruised toward Vienna. Upon arrival, Ellen and I headed off on Viking’s optional Mozart & Strauss Concert excursion to enjoy a performance of the two celebrated Austrian composers’ works by the Vienna Residence Orchestra.

Day 5: Vienna, Austria

During our first day in Vienna, Ellen and I joined Viking’s complimentary “Panoramic Vienna & Christmas Market” excursion, which took us by bus along the Ringstrasse and by foot through the heart of central Vienna past the Hofburg Palace, Spanish Riding School, Kunsthistorisches Museum, and other landmarks. Our guide also led us to two Christmas markets.

Rather than return to the ship for lunch, my cousin and I grabbed a bite at historic coffee house Café Landtmann and then retraced our steps to two markets we’d seen on the tour, Weinnachts-Markt an Hof and nearby Weihnactsdorf Stephanplatz around St. Stephen’s Cathedral. We then doubled back to the pedestrian shopping zone Graben, which was strung with thousands of dazzling lights, before heading to the main Wiener Christkindlmarkt at Rathauspltaz. Vienna’s largest holiday market has a magical quality after dark, and once we’d enjoyed the ambience for a bit we took Viking’s free shuttle, located nearby, back to the ship.

Day 6: Vienna, Austria (with optional tours to Bratislava, Slovakia)

Guests had the option to explore Vienna on their own (with the Viking shuttle taking them into town) or booking an extra-cost bus tour, “Picturesque Bratislava at Christmas,” to the capital of Slovakia. Ellen and I chose the latter and after an hour’s drive enjoyed a guided tour of Bratislava Castle and the city’s charming Old Town, followed by an included three-course lunch (the cheese dumplings topped with onions and crispy bacon bits were yummy) at Dom Michalska Brana near the photogenic Michael’s Gate.

Day 7: Budapest, Hungary

As Viking Gullveig cruised into Budapest, I had hoped for a clear view of the Hungarian Parliament Building. The domed Gothic-Revival landmark completed in 1904 dominates the Pest side of this city, which is divided in two by the Danube and has its oldest palaces and churches on the hillier Buda side. Unfortunately, it was another foggy morning, which made for a moody panorama as we passed the Parliament on one side and Castle Hill on the other before docking near the Chain Bridge, completed in 1849.

VIDEO: Below, Donna shows us the Viking Gullveig cruising into Budapest towards the majestic Hungarian Parliament Building.

Here’s where I’ll offer my sole criticism of this particular Viking sailing: The itinerary for our included “Panoramic Budapest” at Christmastime excursion had been changed last-minute and we ended up spending four hours mostly on a bus sitting in traffic with just a mediocre church organ concert and a stop for Hungarian strudel and mulled wine before having free time to explore the Christmas market at St. Stephen’s Basilica.

The excursion described on the Viking website currently says guests get off the bus in the Buda Castle District for a tour of the 14th-century Gothic-style St. Matthias church, so make sure that’s on the agenda when booking this tour. If not, use the four hours to sightsee independently since Viking’s docking location is convenient to many landmarks, which are easily reached on foot or via Uber.

Back onboard, my spirits were quickly lifted by the nighttime views of the Chain Bridge from the  Sun Deck and a superb Advent Choir performance by four acapella singers who wowed us with a mix of international and Hungarian holiday songs.

Day 8: Budapest, Hungary (debark)

Ellen and I said goodbye to Viking Gullveig — but not to Budapest. We had booked an extra hotel night (I suggest you do the same) to have time to enjoy this beautiful city and to revisit the St. Stephen’s holiday market at midday since it was super crowded with local families in the evening. We then headed to Shoes on the Danube Bank, a poignant installation of 60 pairs of brass shoes memorializing where Hungarian Jews were executed during WWII, their shoes left on the bank as they fell into the river. Next, we walked across the Chain Bridge and took the Buda Castle Funicular to the top of Castle Hill, where we admired the multicolor roof and spires of St. Matthias and enjoyed panoramic views from the Fisherman’s Bastion.

Our Most Memorable Christmas Market Experiences

Holiday markets are at the center of Vikings’ Christmas on the Danube itinerary, but Ellen and I decided to focus on one or two in each city and combine shopping with visiting top landmarks.

Regensburg

While damp weather meant we didn’t spend much time at the main Christkindlmarkt at Neupfarrplatz — although its famous half-meter-long sausages cooking on grills certainly grabbed our attention — our afternoon excursion to the Romantischer Weihnachtsmarkt at St. Emmeram Palace more than made up for it. The three-hour visit included a tour inside the historic 500-room palace, which is still inhabited by members of the royal house of Thurn and Taxis and includes a 12th-century Benedictine monastery.

Afterwards, we had 90 minutes for a post-sunset stroll amid the beautifully decorated and romantically lit Christmas market in the exterior courtyards. Ellen and I purchased a few gifts and I sipped my first mug of hot, spiced glühwein, paying a few extra euros to keep the souvenir black-and-gold ceramic mug that was actually made in Germany.

VIDEO: Donna sipping hot, spiced glühwein at Regensburg's Christkindlmarkt, below.

Salzburg

Our extra-cost excursion touched on the highlights of this storied city nestled amid hills on the northern boundary of the Alps. We visited Mirabell Gardens, strolled past the birthplace of Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart and enjoyed a lunch and performance of songs from “The Sound of Music” at St. Peter’s Stiftskulinarium, Austria’s oldest restaurant dating to 803. Afterward, we used some free time to walk amid the elaborate, garden-like cemetery of St. Peter’s Abbey (don’t miss it) before our guide led us to the Salzburg Christkindlmarkt at Domplatz. There, we sipped glühwein (from a pretty royal blue mug) and purchased adorable hand-crafted wool ornaments and tasty confections (see below) named after Mozart.

Krems

While Gottweig Abbey didn’t feature a Christmas market, touring the abbey itself was like stepping back in time — especially when we climbed the incredible baroque Imperial  Staircase with its circa-1739 ceiling fresco. We also enjoyed a wine tasting of four red and white varietals produced by the abbey’s vineyards and I bought a jar of abbey-produced apricot jam. Sadly, I never got to taste it because I forgot to pack it in my checked bag and it was confiscated as I went through security for my flight home.

Vienna

We had two full days and nights here, but we found that it was quite easy to visit three separate holiday markets during the afternoon of our first day, each of them enjoyable for different reasons. Our favorite for locally made crafts and gifts (from hand-painted wooden ornaments to knit hats and scarves) was Weihnactsdorf Stephanplatz, while our favorite for holiday foods was Weinnachts-Markt am Hof. Finally, we loved the largest one, the Wiener Christkindlmarkt, for its festive ambience, especially after dark when the golden entrance arch, whimsical carousel and massive trees were all dramatically illuminated.

Bratislava

This city is worth visiting if you’re a first-timer, but it will be a disappointment for serious shoppers. The two Christmas markets in Old Town sold primarily Slovakian holiday foods rather than local handicrafts, although there were a few souvenir shops offering ornaments, candles and other holiday-centric gifts.

Budapest

Prepare for major crowds in Budapest, where the main Christmas market at St. Stephen’s is extremely popular and offers a good selection of locally made handicrafts and plenty of Hungarian culinary specialties, as well as an illumination show after dark on the cathedral’s facade. We visited twice, browsing the stalls at night and then returning before noon the next day to make our purchases, which included lovely handmade ceramic ornaments imprinted with delicate botanicals and bags of traditional Hungarian holiday candies.

VIDEO: Here's, Donna gives us a look at the illumination show on St Stephen's facade in Budapest.

Favorite Seasonal Treats — Lots to Eat!

Viking kept us well-fed with a combination of classic menu items and regional specialties, such as creamy turnip soup, wiener schnitzel, cheese dumplings, and sachertorte, on the nightly dinner menus. There was also a lively German Night celebration — save your appetite, especially if you love sausages! — but I must give a shout out to the holiday treats we taste-tested at Christmas markets along the way.

Glühwein: I ended up really liking the hot spiced (or mulled) wine served at every Christmas market. It’s traditionally made with red wine infused with cinnamon, cloves and orange or lemon, but there are also white wine versions, often flavored with milder spices and apple. I ended up with a collection of three glühwein mugs (each market has its own shape and decoration) and I’m planning to make my own hot spiced wine next holiday season for friends.

Sausages & Wursts: At every Christmas market, meat-lovers can also bite into all kinds of regional sausages and wursts, from Regensburg and Passau’s famous half-meter pork sausage with mustard, sauerkraut and sliced pickles to massive Hungarian paprika-spiced kolbasz piled high with a choice of toppings.

Brezels: If you’re focused on shopping and want an easy-to-carry snack, these giant soft pretzels with various toppings and fillings (from savory cheese to sweet pistachio cream) are a tasty option.

Mozartkugel: Translation: Mozart balls. These are a must-try in Salzburg, where the musical genius was born. Splurge on the authentic originals created in 1890 by confectioner Konditorei Fürst, which is located right near the main Christkindlmarkt at Domplatz. They are made with marzipan, pistachios, hazelnut nougat and dark chocolate and they make delicious holiday gifts.

Baumkuchen: This buttery, multi-layered, pull-apart “tree cake” is baked rotisserie-style on a spit and then rolled in a variety of seasonings (we chose cinnamon, but coconut, almond, and cheese options were also tempting) and is best washed down with a mug of hot glühwein.

Dumplings: You can try cheese-filled dumplings in Bratislava, apricot-stuffed marilleknodel dumplings at Gottweig Abbey in Austria, and plum dumplings (szilvas gomboc) in Budapest.

Strudel: Hungarian strudel is sweet and flaky and during our Viking tour, we tried the to-go option at family-owned First Strudel House of Pest. We had a choice of apple or cottage cheese and cherry, paired with a cup of hot mulled wine (forralt bor in Hungarian).

Langos: While I meant to try this Hungarian street food, a deep-fried flat bread served with a variety of toppings, I somehow never did. Other guests who indulged loved it.

Szaloncukor (parlour candy): It’s a Hungarian tradition to hang these colorful, foil-wrapped sweets — chocolate-covered marzipan paired with various other flavors — on the Christmas tree and enjoy them on the days surrounding the holiday.

Wrapping Things Up …

So, I discovered on this trip that cruising the Danube in winter when the weather can be unpredictable is 180-degrees from a late spring or early fall sailing when the sun deck comfortably offers a place to enjoy unfettered views. Yet seeing and savoring legendary Christmas traditions in four different countries (and deciding that glühwein is far superior to eggnog as a holiday drink) was a worthy trade-off.

I’m not quite a Christmas superfan, but the Danube’s festive markets — while a bit repetitive in their offerings and almost always overcrowded — did supercharge my holiday spirit. What’s more, the cruise gave Ellen and me a chance to share enjoyable moments together in some of Europe’s most beautiful cities.

Interested In A Viking Christmas Markets Cruise?

Viking’s 7-night Christmas on the Danube itinerary from Regensburg, Germany to Budapest, Hungary (and vice versa), starts at $2,999 per person for a Standard Stateroom. Not included in the cruise fare: cocktails (although wine, beer and soft drinks are complimentary during lunch and dinner), crew gratuities (Viking adds a charge of $20 per person per night, which can also be pre-paid) and optional excursions. Viking’s Silver Spirits package for unlimited cocktails is $27 per person per day.

Guests are picked up at the airports in either Munich or Budapest (if they book their flights through Viking); pre- and post-cruise extensions area also available in Budapest, Prague, Nuremburg and Slovenia & Croatia.

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Donna Heiderstadt is a New York City-based freelance travel writer and editor who has visited more than 95 countries and all seven continents. She enjoys writing about cruising and has taken more than 100 ocean and river cruises over the past 25 years. Donna is a contributor to ThePointsGuy.com, ShermansTravel.com, SmartLuxury.com, Fodors.com, CruisCritic.com and other websites and publications.

 

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