Upper Loire Valley Barge Cruise
By Dana Freeman
3/10/24 UPDATE: Barge Meanderer is not currently in operation; we hear they’re looking for a buyer. Stay tuned.
Reviewed April 2022
Every time I visit France, I fall in love with the country a little bit more. There are so many beautiful regions to explore.
Beyond the bigger cities, some smaller towns and villages are worth visiting.
If you enjoy slow travel, you can visit some of the lesser-known areas in France on a luxury barge cruise.
I recently sailed through the Upper Loire Valley, a total of about 54 km, on the 6-passenger Barge Meanderer, which we learned about through Barge Lady Cruises.
We cruised in late April, which means you might have gorgeous sunny days, or days that can be a bit chilly. If cruising in the off season, remember to pack in layers to accommodate all temps.
Dana & her husband Andy on the 6-pax Barge Meanderer. * Photo: Dana Freeman
This is my second barge cruise. The last one took me through Southern Burgundy on the Prosperite.
In comparison, barge cruises all have underlying similarities such as a small number of guests, a private chef on board, and private excursions, but certain differences set each one apart.
The 6-pax Barge Meanderer is one of the larger hotels barges cruising the canals of France. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Barge Meanderer Overview
Owned by Susan and George Kovalik, the Barge Meanderer was built in 1948 as a commercial barge and later converted to a luxury hotel barge in 1992.
At 117 feet long and 17 feet wide, she is currently one of the larger vessels cruising on the French canals.
The Meanderer has room for just six guests.
So, unless you charter the boat (which is a great idea for friend and family groups), you should be comfortable spending the weeklong voyage in the close company of a small group of strangers.
Space for outdoor dining for Meanderer’s 6 guests. * Photo: Dana Freeman
We quickly got to know our traveling companions — a group of four women friends in their early to mid-70s from Florida. For them, this barge cruise was part of a girls’ trip that included a few days in Paris.
One of the women was a repeat guest. She had sailed on the Meanderer previously with her husband several years ago.
Dana walking next to the canal with Barge Meanderer in the background. * Photo: Andy Freeman
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Common shared spaces include the main salon, a small dining area, and a partially covered sun deck.
Tastefully decorated with photographic art created by your hostess, Aisling, the living room has three loveseats and a fully stocked open bar.
It is an excellent spot for relaxing before or after an excursion or in the evening before dinner.
The interior lounge and bar. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Together you will enjoy your meals at the cozy round dining room table.
Dining indoors is an option too. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Additionally, the secondary shared space is the top deck with a hot tub, lounge chairs, and a dining table for lunch on warm days.
The top deck. * Photo: Dana Freeman
It was a bit too chilly on our late April cruise for us to brave the hot tub. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Barge Meanderer’s fantastic crew of five consists of Captain Declan, who is your guide and driver for the week; Stephan, the pilot who is in charge of navigating the barge along the canals; Chef John; Aisling, the hostess; and Florence the deckhand who doubles as hostess sometimes.
Aisling, the hostess pours wine. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Barge Meanderer Cabins
There are three newly refreshed cabins on Barge Meanderer.
Measuring approximately 125 square feet, they are all similar in size and come with individual air conditioning units and small windows that can be opened.
While the cabins are not spacious, they are adequate for two people to share. The beds can be made up of two twins or one queen.
Dana’s cozy cabin. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Each room also has a flat-screen TV with a built-in DVD player (DVDs available on board). I never turned on the TV as I prefer to read at night. There are reading lights, but they both need to be on or off. So If your partner likes to go to bed early, I’d suggest bringing your own headlamp or use your phone light.
There’s enough storage space for a six-night cruise. You’ll find two closets and a four-drawer dresser. Each cabin has a private en-suite bathroom with a shower. Bathrobes, hairdryers, and toiletries are provided.
One of the en-suite bathrooms. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Housekeeping is performed twice a day, once in the morning and again with turndown service before bed.
The hostesses are always leaving little chocolate treats on your pillow.
VIDEO: Below, Dana takes us on a little tour of Barge Meanderer’s interior spaces and her cabin.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tMIZl_XEReg
Dining on Barge Meanderer
One of the highlights of French barge cruising, especially an Upper Loire Valley barge cruise, is the food.
Unlike larger cruises where meals are produced in mass, having a personal chef on board means a great deal of care is taken in preparing every dish.
Chef John uses lots of fresh produce he procures in the local markets. You’ll even have a chance to shop with him if you’d like during one of the excursions.
Chef John prepping for one of the delicious meals. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Menus are flexible. Chef John can tailor all meals to your taste or dietary needs. So, whether you are a diabetic, gluten-free, vegetarian, or just have a specific food aversion, he can accommodate that.
The Chef promises you won’t hurt his feelings if you don’t like traditional french staples like duck pâté, rabbit, or guinea fowl.
However, you must let him know ahead of time on your pre-cruise preference sheet so that he can adequately stock the kitchen.
You will find plenty of traditional French dishes on Chef John’s menus.
Breakfast is served at your leisure, perfect for early or late risers like me.
You will find the sideboard filled with fresh croissants and pastries from the local village, a selection of yogurts, fruits, cheeses, and homemade jams and jellies.
Croissants every morning! * Photo: Dana Freeman
You can also have eggs prepared upon request.
Lunch is buffet-style and usually has two to three salads and a main entree like pan-fried roasted salmon or sea bass. I loved the salads. The heritage tomato and goat cheese salad and quinoa feta salad were among my favorite.
A yummy salad at lunch. * Photo: Dana Freeman
A mushroom tartlette made of potato and vegetables. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Light and healthy, they were a perfect antithesis to the copious amount of cheese and wine I indulged in throughout the week.
For lunch and dinner, there was always cheese cheese cheese! * Photo: Dana Freeman
Dinner each night is a four-course extravaganza.
They begin with an appetizer, followed by the main course, a cheese course, and dessert.
You will dine on main dishes such as Cod with Petit Pois a la Française, Rack of Lamb, Coq a Vin, and desserts such as vanilla creme brûlée or caramelized chocolate mousse with pistachios and raspberries.
The Cod Petit Pois. * Photo: Dana Freeman
A cheese course of course. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Ahhh dessert — caramelized chocolate mousse with pistachios and raspberries! * Photo: Dana Freeman
Lemon tart anyone? * Photo: Dana Freeman
Wine and cheese are served at lunch and dinner.
Most wines served during the cruise come from smaller vineyards in the region, and Declan and Aisling have visited almost all of them.
A nice Rose at lunch is meant to be! * Photo: Dana Freeman
They are both very knowledgeable about the wines you will be drinking and spend a few minutes at each meal explaining what you are tasting.
Most wines served during the cruise come from smaller vineyards in the region. * Photo: Dana Freeman
You will have two kinds of cheese at lunch and three at dinner.
Aisling samples all of the cheese from her favorite cheesemonger in Rogny les Sept Ecluses, procuring them for the cruise.
You will have everything from a mild Brie to a strong, pungent Roquefort.
So much delicious cheese. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Upper Loire Valley Barge Cruise Itinerary for the Week
We boarded in Montbouy and six days later, disembarked in Léré, zigzagging along the Canal du Loing and Canal de Briare.
Dana’s route, zigzagging between Montbouy and Lere. * Image: Barge Meanderer
Declan will take you to visit Chateaux, vineyards, markets, and small towns throughout the week.
Unlike a river cruise or small ocean cruise, it’s just you and your fellow passengers on these excursions, so it feels like a private tour every day.
You are transported via a spacious Mercedes passenger van, which Declan keeps stocked with water, umbrellas, and extra masks.
Part Tour guide and part historian, he keeps you entertained during the drive. He is quite a storyteller as well as personable and entertaining. Seemingly there were no questions we asked that he couldn’t answer.
Along the way, we visited famous palaces like the sprawling Château de Fontainebleau, where Napoléon Bonaparte once resided, to smaller ones such as with its gorgeous gardens where the Countess is still in residence.
Château de Fontainebleau. * Photo: Dana Freeman
The Throne Room of the Château de Fontainebleau. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Chateau La Bussiere. * Photo: Dana Freeman
The largest town you’ll visit during the week is Montargis, a beautiful canal city famous for pralines, which were first created during the reign of Louis XIII in 1636.
Be sure to visit the Maison de la Prasline Mazet to purchase some to bring home.
My favorite excursion on our Upper Loire Valley barge cruise was the visit to the hilltop village of Sancerre overlooking the Loire River.
Dana & Andy in Sancerre. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Not only is the scenery spectacular and great for photos, I really enjoyed the private winery tour and tasting. I even purchased a few bottles to bring home.
The famed Sancerre wine. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Afterward, we had the opportunity to walk around the village, filled with cute shops and cafes.
The village of Sancerre. * Photo: Dana Freeman
More Information about Barge Meanderer
- The barge is equipped with six bicycles for guest use.
- Wifi is included. However, you cannot count on a consistently strong connection. It is suitable for checking emails and texts, but that is about it.
- There is a small library of books, DVDs, and games for guests to use.
- Although the dress code is casual, a fancier dress is suggested for the Captain’s Dinner.
- Barge cruises are non-smoking.
- Children 12 and older are welcome for charters and 16 and over for non-charters.
- Gratuities not included. Guidelines suggest leaving 7-10% of your cruise fare in cash on the last evening of your voyage.
Barge Meanderer passing through a lock along the way. * Photo: Dana Freeman
Interested in this Upper Loire Valley Barge Cruise?
All-inclusive fares start at $6,100 per person.
Many people stay on in France before or after the cruise, which would make sense to do in Paris since the barge cruise starts and ends only about 75km from the heart of Paris.
You can book via Barge Lady Cruises HERE.
RELATED: Is a barge cruise for you? Read our Barge Canal Cruise Tips to find out.
The Barge Meanderer. * Photo: Dana Freeman
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HEIDI SARNA
Dana, Good write up. Well done. My wife and her two sisters and husbands booked the Meanderer for one week on the same route you took in late August 2020. Magical trip. George and Susan were much more involved then doing the tours, etc. Declan and Ainsley were wonderful, professional people. Our chef has since retired from barge cooking. Amazing how he could perform those meals in such a small kitchen. Easily one Michelin star. We loved it. Once in a life time. Expensive but worth it.
Thank you so much for your kind words. So glad to hear you enjoyed your cruise on the Meanderer. The crew is fantastic and the new Chef (John) produces fabulous food.