Wilderness Legacy Cruise Ship Review
By Peter Knego
(Photo Above: The handsome Wilderness Legacy, shown at anchor near Le Conte Glacier, was built in 1984 as a replica Chesapeake Bay coastal steamer. * Credit: Peter Knego)
After no less than a dozen Alaska cruises on just about everything that floats, from a former fishing trawler to several expedition ships, a handful of ultra-luxe smaller cruise vessels and even a few of the mainstream cruise ship “biggies,” I’ve become pretty jaded about cruising to America's Last Frontier.
When a friend or acquaintance raves that they are heading to Alaska on “The Princess,” “Holland” or one of mega ships, my first question is, “Have you booked it already?”
If their answer is “yes,” then I just smile and wish them a nice trip. If it’s a “no,” I urge them to check out a very special entity where they can cruise to the “real” Alaska, a wondrous, still breathtaking place that lurks beyond the crowded, commercial cruise ports lined with shopping malls and tourist haunts that are the domain of the big ships.
READ MORE ABOUT UNCRUISE: Heidi shares her UnCruise Alaska review of the Wilderness Explorer here.
The UnCruise Backstory
That entity, UnCruise, has a rich heritage in Alaska expedition cruising that goes back to Westours, one of the pioneering Alaska cruise lines that was actually purchased by and merged into Holland America Line in the 1970s.
UnCruise CEO Dan Blanchard cut his cruise industry teeth with them and continued working with their founder, the late Chuck West, at his next venture, Cruise West, a once highly regarded expedition cruise line that ceased operations in 2010.
In the wake of Cruise West, Blanchard acquired a small cruise outfit called American Safari Cruises, added several ships and a new more upscale operation, Innersea Discoveries, and ultimately rebranded both as UnCruise in 2012.

What UnCruise offers in Alaska, versus other expedition cruise lines, is decades of navigating not only the smaller passages and inlets, but also the bureaucracy of obtaining special permits to provide guests access to places the competitors cruise past or never even get near.
Now operating nine small ships (ranging from 22 to 86 guests), in addition to Alaska, UnCruise sails to the Sea of Cortez, Hawai’i, Costa Rica and the Galapagos, offering superb, dedicated expedition leaders and providing excellent service, cuisine and included perks like good wines and an open bar, airport transfers, all activities and, of course, meals.
In Juneau, Blanchard, himself, welcomed guests embarking on a seven night “Wild, Woolly and Wow with Glacier Bay” adventure aboard the Wilderness Legacy. (When he can, Blanchard likes greeting guests at the dock; he also hosts a few “Captains Cruises” every year — in 2026 there are four.)

He told us that despite what we read in the brochure, to prepare for something completely different, adding, “The only thing we guarantee is that we will bring you back.”
He went on to explain that instead of sticking to a set schedule, the itinerary would remain flexible to maximize the experience for all guests. And, as it turned out, a huge storm was rolling in from the Pacific that week, so we indeed altered course to avoid high winds, rough seas and incessant rain.
In the end, we stuck with about 90 percent of the published itinerary, albeit in a different order, with a few alternate hamlets sprinkled in.
Wilderness Legacy: A Classic Ship Emulating An Even More Classic Ship
For those of us who love classic smaller ships, the Wilderness Legacy, is a joy to behold. She was actually built in 1984 as the replica coastal steamer Pilgrim Belle and went on to sail as the Colonial Explorer, Victorian Empress and Spirit of 98 before Blanchard acquired her in 2012 for Columbia River cruising as the SS Legacy.
With her vertical bow, layer cake superstructure, sheltered promenades, beautifully rounded stern and Victorian-inspired decor, the Legacy evokes an early 20th Century steamship but offers all the creature comforts of a modern, diesel-powered cruise ship.
She’s fully air-conditioned, stabilized and even has a bow thruster, making her easy to maneuver and if the swells on our cruise were any indication, she rides the seas like a rock.
In 2016, to bring her into the expedition cruise fold but at the same time keeping her classic profile intact, Blanchard envisioned a floating platform attached to the stern of the ship, where guests could board skiffs and launch kayaks.

According to the Legacy’s affable Captain Andy Lyngar, Blanchard took his concept, which he drew on a cocktail napkin, to a Seattle shipyard where the platform, cleverly named “Sea Dragon” — ie “Sea Draggin’” — was built.
Wilderness Legacy’s Cabins
With a length of 192 feet, a beam of 40 feet and measuring 1,472 gross tons, the Legacy has four passenger decks and carries 86 guests in six categories of all ocean view staterooms that range from a pair of cozy Navigators to the sprawling Commodore/Owner’s Suite on Deck 4.

My favorites are the two wedge-shaped Junior Commodore Suites on forward Deck 3 overlooking the bow.
The ship also has two Explorer category staterooms with semi-private verandas that open onto the promenade, one of which has door ramps and a modified bathroom with a roll-in shower that is not fully ADA compliant.
On that note, there is an elevator that connects the three bottom decks but the top level, Bridge Deck (or Deck 4) where the wheelhouse (which is open daily for visits), an open sitting area and two Jacuzzis are located, can only be accessed via stairs.
Staterooms on Decks 2 and 3 open onto the outside promenades and staterooms on Deck 1 are accessed via an interior passageway. Our Trailblazer category room, 108 on the port side of Deck 1, had a large, near-sea-level picture window, ample storage space (with under bed suitcase stowage), a closet and plenty of shelves and drawers.


All staterooms have a TV with DVD player (a large selection of DVDs are available in the Lounge) and a plug with two American style outlets and two USB ports. Wifi (which worked surprisingly well) is included and binoculars are provided for use during the cruise.
There’s a thermostat control for the air conditioning/heating and the suites have additional perks like espresso machines, a mini-bar and bathrobes.
VIDEO: Here’s Peter’s comprehensive top-to-bottom tour of the classic Wilderness Legacy.
The Adventure Begins
Shortly after boarding, there was a safety drill, a little time to unpack, and, as we dashingly sailed past Juneau’s line up of massive cruise ships, our first “6:00pm News” debriefing was held in the Lounge.

A handsome and rustic space on forward Deck 2 that can accommodate all guests at once (our mid September sailing, the last of the season, was nearly full with 86 passengers; mostly Americans plus a few Brit’s, Aussies and Canadians), it has a cozy forward section overlooking the bow with a small library and board games.
It also has a center counter where early bird breakfast, cookies and happy hour snacks are laid out, a self-service coffee and tea area with a very much in-demand espresso machine, a small boutique and a well patronized bar.
A spread of cheese and crackers was laid out and the bar area bustled as the captain and expedition leaders welcomed and told us what to expect during the next day or two. We would have clear skies and great weather for our visit to Le Conte Glacier the next morning and kayaking at Indian Point that afternoon.

The day after, that incoming storm would mean diverting from what was scheduled to provide the most shelter, all to be determined by Captain Andy, who was keeping track of the storm and factoring in reports from other ships on wildlife sightings.
Delicious Dining Without All The Fuss
After a chance to mingle and meet fellow guests, we were all off to the dining room on Deck 1, where there are booths lined up along the picture windows and tables in its center. The booths are great for their often-spectacular views but make sure if you take a window seat that you don’t need to get out anytime soon — if you’ve got to go, it’s a lot like being on an airplane, where the entire row has to get up.
The center tables offer more freedom to move around but lack the direct access to spectacular sunsets, wildlife sightings and the surging seas.

Not including the outrageously good fresh baked breads, there are three main dinner courses with a starter (either a salad or soup), an entree (with vegetarian, fish or meat choices) and a dessert.


UnCruise is keen on not wasting food, providing moderate sized portions but of course, if anyone wants more, all they have to do is ask. Drinks are included and there are suggested wines to go with each meal.
Lunch is also a three-course affair while breakfast comes with a choice of non-vegetarian or vegetarian options as well as made-to-order omelets and eggs. There is also a breakfast buffet spread with fresh fruits, cereals, breads and yogurt.
Chef Rachel would regale us each morning with her edgy wit and the day’s choices for lunch and dinner, which guests select in advance (as more of a guideline and, of course, diversions are fine). Her culinary offerings were mouthwatering (the meats and fish were always perfectly cooked) and often surprising. For instance, frittata fritters were my favorite breakfast offering.
Even though this was an expedition cruise, the food was on par with or better than I’ve had with the likes of Seabourn, Silversea and many of the luxe lines, although more modestly presented and without all the fuss. (For instance, the happy hour snacks in the lounge were often basic — hummus, various crackers, cheese, chips and dips.)
From the wonderfully fresh and flavorful salad dressings and sauces and the delicious vegetarian offerings (including some of the best tofu I’ve had on any ship and even a delicious breadfruit burger), Rachel was indeed a celebrity (or at least a much-celebrated chef) for the week.

How she was able to come up with such a variety of dishes so creatively and tastily in that tiny galley was an ongoing mystery of the cruise. And, spoiler alert, there is an all-you-can-eat fresh crabfest on one night.
The wait staff were very hard working, charming and dedicated, learning guests’ names and preferences at the outset and, during dinner, somehow managing to synchronize the delivery of courses so all guests at each table and booth were served at the same time.
Even at the end of a long season, week in and week out, they were at their best and most patient. This was clearly a happy, well trained and treated crew.
An Ideal Cruise For Those Who Don’t Like To Cruise
Guests & Guides
Fellow guests on our itinerary ranged in age from their 40’s through 80’s, were generally well to do and well-traveled, adventure-seeking and definitely not frequent cruisers. They were not on our cruise for the ship or the food (although both were much appreciated) but to explore and fully maximize access to the scenery and wildlife.
Led by Mareth Griffith, who has 12 years of experience with UnCruise, the tour guides were all skilled, knowledgeable, enthusiastic and well trained. Before heading off on any outings, we were instructed on practical things like boarding skiffs and kayaks and what not to do in the event of a bear encounter. There would also be presentations about the history and geology of Alaska, birds, dolphins, whales and tips on photography.



After the “6:00pm News” daily recaps, we were given the following day’s outing options and a chance to sign up for morning and afternoon expeditions. Every morning, the bulletin board outside the Lounge would list each tour’s participants and the departure times.
Treks, Kayaking & Skiff Excursions
In Thomas Bay, with guide Erika, we made a beach landing and hiked along a trail to Cascade Falls and in Takatz Bay, we took Mareth’s “light bushwhack” outing, which had us clambering from the mossy beach through muskeg, past a beaver dam into mud and rain-soaked vegetation to enjoy spectacular vistas, including an open meadow surrounded by jagged mountain peaks and a serene, rocky cove.

Thankfully, UnCruise provided rubber boots, which we could leave outside our stateroom, where there were also hooks to hang our drenched or soiled items (note, not all UnCruise ships have the hallway hooks; on some ships, like WEX, you must hang your wet coats etc inside of your cabin on one of the few hooks). It was amusing to see how things accumulated in our passage during the course of the week.
READ MORE: Here are Heidi's Alaska cruise packing tip, based on her many cruises in the waters of Alaska.

While there were plenty of dedicated trail blazers, most of our expedition time was spent buzzing around in skiffs or paddling away in kayaks. My favorite skiff experience was our breathtaking morning in the Le Conte glacier ice field, watching some of the most dramatic and spectacular calvings I have ever witnessed, followed in milliseconds by a roar and a threatening swell that ebbed long before it reached the skiff.
VIDEO: Below, see one of Le Conte Glacier's spectacular calvings, captured from our skiff by Mike Masino.
Wildlife Galore
On other occasions, we would buzz past gushing waterfalls and beneath towering evergreens where bald eagles lurked. On the rainiest day in Pavlov Harbor, at the mouth of a rocky stream, we watched from a safe distance as a family of brown bears foraged for salmon. There was also an afternoon spent in Neka Bay, surrounded by distant but ever present, often breaching Humpback whales.
On guided kayak tours, we encountered otters, harbor seals, a giant jellyfish, zombie salmon (poor battered specimens at the end of their lifecycle) and rolling ice bergs. In Glacier Bay, as one of the Princess “biggies” sailed past, decks lined with thousands of envious guests, we kayaked into the ice field of Lamplugh Glacier.

On each kayak outing, it was also nice to enjoy a still moment or two, listening to the trickle of the icy water flowing by, distant bird calls and that occasional, breathtaking silence.
Rather ironically, two of my favorite encounters were actually enjoyed from the decks of the Legacy. The first was at the outset of our cruise, at 2:00 AM, after we were awakened by a soft announcement that the Northern Lights were astern. Finally, after decades of cruising, I witnessed the Aurora’s bands hovering over the Sea Dragon, its fuchsia-green hues strangely more visible on my i-Phone screen than to the naked, albeit tired eye.

Fittingly, the other encounter came at the end of the cruise after exiting Glacier Bay, when Captain Andy announced there were orcas off our bow.
The Perfect Ending
With very low expectations after numerous fleeting and distant orca sightings from the decks of large cruise ships, I headed out to the foredeck. From the tip of the bow, I watched in wonder as a family of no less than eight orcas closed in on the Legacy, breaching in synchronized formations straight out of an MGM Esther Williams aquacade.

The only thing missing was the pink fog as they frolicked alongside our ship, rails filled with gasping guests, and finally disappeared off our port side.
I Wholeheartedly Recommend the Wilderness Legacy to See Alaska by Small Ship Cruise
These were just some of the highlights of our adventure but on yours, go with no pre-conceived expectations, as each cruise will be vastly different from the one prior.
I would like to add that what we were told at the outset was certainly true about the only guarantee being that we would return. What we didn’t know is that we would return far more happy and elated than when we left.
VIDEO: Below is my full Wilderness Legacy small-ship cruise review.
Interested in a Wilderness Legacy Small-Ship Alaska Cruise?
The seven-night “Wild, Woolly and Wow With Glacier Bay” cruise starts at $5,000 per person, including all meals; beer, wine and cocktails; guided excursions; and use of kayaks and paddle boards. To check out offers and deck plans, go to UnCruise.com.
For assistance booking an UnCruise and finding the best dates and cabin to suit your needs — plus any help with airfare, insurance and/or hotel stays you may require — we're always happy to recommend our favorite travel advisor Kevin, who Heidi met, incidentally, while on an UnCruise sailing in Alaska a few years back, when they bonded over their shared passion for small-ship cruising.
Show your interest by filling out this short form, below, and he'll be glad to assist you.

Interested In An UnCruise?
For years, we've been referring our readers to our favorite travel advisor, Kevin Flink, because of his excellent customer service and expertise in travel planning. Kevin owns a franchise of Cruise Planners, one of the highest producing land and cruise travel agencies in the world, which means he gets access to various discounts and perks from cruise lines, hotels and insurance companies that he can pass on to his clients.

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HEIDI SARNA










