Sea Cloud Cruise Review: Peter Knego Reunites With A Legend

Sea Cloud Cruise Review

Every now and then, a dream comes true twice. For me, that was another chance to sail in the legendary Sea Cloud after a blissful eight-night cruise along the Spanish Riviera in 2019.

The Sea Cloud in full regalia off the coast of Valencia, Spain in 2019. * Photo: Photo: Peter Knego

This time around, we joined the sail assisted apparition in Piraeus in July for a 10-night voyage to Venice, with stops in some of the most enchanting Greek, Croatian and Italian ports along the way.

Sea Cloud is pure glory afloat, a time capsule of past elegance that continues to provide her guests with joy and awe, well into her 93rd year.

As rich in history as she is in original detail, she was built in Germany in 1931 for American cereal heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post and her financier husband E.F. Hutton as the Hussar V.

Cereal Heiress Marjorie Merriweather Post. * Photo: Peter Knego

For a time the world’s largest private yacht, the ultra sleek, black-hulled, four-masted sailing barque measured 360 by 49 feet and had only six staterooms for up to twelve distinguished guests, who were served by a crew of 60.

The Hussar V as built in her full black-hulled glory. * Image: Peter Knego

In her early years, Hussar V ventured off to Bermuda, the Caribbean, the Galapagos, Alaska, Mexico and Hawaii, as a floating get-away for Post, Hutton and their daughter Nedenia, who was tended to by a governess and tutor.

In 1932, Hussar V visited the Galapagos. * Image: Peter Knego

One of the world’s most famous heiresses, Nedenia spent much of her childhood on the yacht, a safe haven in the aftermath of the Lindbergh baby kidnapping and murder that made headlines in 1932.

Nicknamed “Deenie”, she would eventually grow up into the glamorous movie star Dina Merrill, who was a frequent passenger on board Sea Cloud until her passing in 2017.

In 1935, Post divorced the philandering Hutton and kept the yacht, which she renamed Sea Cloud.

In 1935, the famed yacht was painted white and given the name Sea Cloud. * Image: Peter Knego

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That same year, Post married Joseph E. Davies, the U.S. ambassador to Russia. Sea Cloud subsequently spent a significant amount of time in European waters and at St. Petersberg, where Post was able to acquire Russian Tsarist artifacts that are now preserved at her former estate, the Hillwood Museum in Washington, D.C. As the ambassador’s unofficial headquarters, Sea Cloud played host to numerous world leaders, including the King of Sweden and the Queen of Belgium, during this time.

After the U.S. entered World War II, Post loaned Sea Cloud to the U.S. Government for the princely sum of $1 per year. In 1942, for service as a weather ship off the eastern U.S. and Canadian seaboard, she was renamed IX99. Painted military gray, with her bowsprit and three of her masts removed, IX99 served with distinction.

Stripped of her finery and renamed IX99, the ship served heroically in World War Two. * Image: Peter Knego

She provided useful intelligence for the D Day Invasion and in 1944, became one of the first racially integrated ships in the U.S. Navy under the command of Lieutenant Carlton Skinner, who employed no less than 50 black sailors, including two officers, among her crew. To this day, Sea Cloud sports five brass chevrons on her forward superstructure commemorating her war duties.

The ship was returned to Post in 1944 but due to limited supply of the necessary materials, full restoration would take another three years.

Sea Cloud reverted to Post in 1944 but it would be another three years before the masts and sails could be restored. * Imaage: Peter Knego

By then, Post had become weary of maintaining Sea Cloud and eventually put her up for sale. The only serious buyer was an old acquaintance of hers, Dominican Republic dictator Rafael Leonidas Trujillo, who renamed the ship after his eldest daughter Angelita.

Maintained at the state’s expense, the Angelita made headlines for all the wrong reasons in 1958, when Trujillo’s playboy son Ramfis took her to Los Angeles to woo aspiring actresses with extravagant gifts and notorious on-board parties.

Ramfis Trujillo poses with a photo of Kim Novak on board while the Angelita was docked in Los Angeles in 1958. * Image: Peter Knego

Among his dalliances were Kim Novak, Joan Collins and Zsa Zsa Gabor. At one point, vandals sprayed “Zsa Zsa slept here” on the ship’s hull, much to the infuriation of his father, who ordered his son to return home with the ship.

In 1961, the elder Trujillo was assassinated, prompting Ramfis to flee with the yacht and his father’s body on board, to the Canary Islands. The Dominican navy intervened and seized the yacht and renamed her Patria. In 1967, she was purchased by Operation Sea Cruises, who renamed her Antarna and sent her to Naples for a refit. She was charted for one luxury cruise before being detained in Miami. In 1972, she was chartered for use as a sea-going college campus but was soon placed under arrest in Panama, which began a slow process of decline and neglect.

Finally, in 1978, a group of Hamburg investors purchased the ship, formed Sea Cloud Cruises, and sailed her to Hamburg, where she was completely overhauled with the addition of new cabins, increasing her capacity to 64.

Sea Cloud Cruises has traded ownership several times and now boasts three ships, including the 2001-built Sea Cloud II and the 2021-built Sea Cloud Spirit.

The Sea Cloud today, captured in the Ionian Sea in July of 2024. * Photo: Peter Knego

In 2008, Sea Cloud was given a special refit to make her comply with very strict new SOLAS standards. By painstakingly removing all of the original wood paneling and treating it with a fireproof coating, her owners have enabled Sea Cloud to avoid the fate of so many classic ships that were forced into retirement.

In October of 2025, Sea Cloud will be given yet another massive refit that promises to keep her sailing well past her 100th year.

While her owners remain tight lipped on the specifics of her 2025 refit, it is believed that she will be re-engined and that some or all of the cabins that were added in the 1978 refit will be removed, restoring her original profile and reducing her capacity.

A Sea Cloud Cruise Today

Including the monkey island (aka flying bridge) above the bridge, where there is a teak-lined sunning terrace overlooking the bow (accessed via a small metal ladder), Sea Cloud has four guest decks.

The sunning area on Sea Cloud’s monkey island. * Photo: Peter Knego

Captain’s and Lido Deck has an open observation platform in front of the bridge and open teak promenades with wonderful deck chair nooks that continue aft on each side to a block of eight staterooms that were added in 1978.

observation terrace in front of the bridge of Sea Cloud cruise

The observation terrace in front of the bridge on Captain’s and Lido Deck. * Photo: Peter Knego

Farther aft, there is the canvas covered, teak lined Lido Bar and an open sunning terrace under the aft (or spanker) mast.

Promenade Deck features the Sea Cloud’s glorious, sheltered promenades and four former officers staterooms that are now the ship’s smallest and most affordable Category 5’s.

Sea Cloud’s promenades are a virtual sea of teakwood. This view is facing aft along the starboard side. * Photo: Peter Knego

The galley, Dining Room and Lounge are located amidships and another block of accommodations near the stern contains 12 more staterooms that were added in 1978. The fantail is lined with a cushioned seating area nicknamed the Blue Lagoon.

Main Deck includes the six original suites and four more that were added at various times during the ship’s long career. For anyone who appreciates the design and craftsmanship of yore, there are no better high seas accommodations than Owners’ Suites 1 and 2, which share a common entrance vestibule lined with original Hussar V and Sea Cloud silver and china service ware.

Measuring 410 square feet, Suite 1 is on the starboard side and features ornate plaster molding, a gold-plated chandelier, etched mirrors and a magnificent Carrara marble fireplace, all rendered the in the Louis XVI style Post admired so much — fittingly so, since this was the private bedroom of her home away from home.

Sea Cloud cruises' Suite 1 in a starboard-facing view.

Suite 1 in a starboard-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

In its huge marble bathroom with a dressing table, the sink and tub are filled via swan-shaped, gold plated taps that are among the ship’s most celebrated artifacts.

Gold plated swan taps in the loo of Sea Cloud’s Suite 1. * Photo: Peter Knego

Directly across from Suite I on the port side, Suite 2, at 366-square-feet, is only slightly less opulent with its more masculine, dark pine paneling and coffered ceiling. Originally E.F. Hutton’s abode, it has one of his bureau-book case secretaries, a red Carrara marble fireplace, two of the original Dining Room chairs and a bathroom outfitted in red Carrara marble.

Sea Cloud cruise Suite 2 in a port-facing view.

Suite 2 in a port-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

Suites 3 and 4, which are 237 and 258 square feet, respectively, are also original and have been furnished in antiques that complement their decorative style. Both have marble fireplaces and bathrooms with tubs. Number 4 was actually Nedenia’s stateroom, which she would give up for special guests and take residence in what is now Suite 7.

Slightly smaller Suites 5 and 6 were converted from storage space into staterooms that are very similar to the others on this level, although 6 has a shower, in lieu of a tub.

After 1 and 2, Suite 7 might be the most sought-after suite for its lovely maple and mahogany paneling and its angled fireplace. Suite 8 is also very nice with its extra floor space and beautiful appointments. All the way aft and terraced into the stern, 9 and 10 were originally the doctor’s and Nedenia’s tutor’s quarters but have since been nicely expanded and decorated to match the other suites on this level.

Suite 7 in an aft/port facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

The Category I and 2 staterooms on the Captain’s and Lido Deck measure approximately 140 to 145 square feet. Category 1s have queen beds and 2s have twin configurations. They are contemporary in look and feel but have nice warm wood tones, large brass-framed picture windows and colorful oil paintings commissioned for the ship. There is storage space under the beds to accommodate most suitcases and all staterooms are furnished with bathrobes for use during the cruise, slippers, an espresso machine and a mini-bar furnished with soft drinks.

Our Category 2 Stateroom 37 on Captain’s and Lido Deck is typical of the staterooms added in the 1978 refit and handsomely appointed with warm wood tones, polished brass and picture windows. * Photo: Peter Knego

One megabyte of wifi is provided and for those seeking more, guests can purchase 5GB for 20 Euros or 10 GB for 35 Euros. The wifi is via Starlink and for the most part worked very well throughout the voyage.

Sea Cloud also gives each guest an attractive aluminum drinking canister that can be filled via filtered water taps in the Lounge and Lido. These were great to take on excursion and are helpful in reducing plastic waste.

Also important to note is that the outlets are European, so definitely bring along a converter for U.S. plugs.

All stateroom bathrooms are paneled in marble and have a shower and gold plated taps and hardware. As for amenities, Sea Cloud provides L’Occitane en Provence (shampoo, conditioner, body lotion, shower gel, soap).

The Category 3s and slightly smaller 4s on aft Promenade Deck are similar to the Category 1s and 2s in decorative style and features but vary a bit in size and layout.

The refurbished former officers’ cabins that are now Category 5s are the most economical and open directly onto the Promenade. They measure 102 square feet and have upper and lower berths and smaller bathrooms with showers. One caveat is that the bunks are a bit horizontally challenged for tall people.

Four Category 5s open up directly onto the promenades. * Photo: Peter Knego

The public areas on Sea Cloud are nothing short of magnificent.

The Dining Room is paneled in dark oak and has arched, brass framed windows that look out onto the promenades.

The Dining Room in a forward-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

The light fixtures are bronze originals that almost look like old car headlights and there are five paintings by Allyn Cox that were added at some point in the 1940s, depicting various ports around the world. Cox is best known today for his paintings in the cupola of the U.S. Capitol.

This painting of Boston Harbor by Allyn Cox is one of five original paintings featured in the Dining Room. * Photo: Peter Knego

Adjoining the Dining Room is the Lounge, an equally stunning space with lush pinewood paneling, intricately carved molding, bronze eagle light fixtures, a bronze chandelier, a Carrara marble fireplace (still bearing the scars of World War II when bored soldiers placed a dart board directly above it), a Steinway piano, a bar (added in the 1978 refit) and a small library of books in both English and German.

The Lounge, originally called The Living Room, in a starboard-facing view. * Photo: Peter Knego

A staircase discretely leads down to the suites on Main Deck, which border a passage filled with antiques and seating alcoves. On the aft bulkhead of the Lounge, there is a beautiful oil by Kip Soldwedel of the Sea Cloud in her element, which was presented to the ship by Dina Merrill in 1982, along with an album of black and white photos taken aboard in her early days.

Both spaces are combined for the breakfast buffets that include pastries, cold cuts, fresh fruits, cheese, yogurts, cereals, eggs and made-to-order omelettes. Just the Lounge, along with the port promenade, is used for an afternoon tea at 4:00 PM with cookies, cakes and light sandwiches.

Full service, open seating dinners, which use both rooms, alternate with buffet dinners on the Lido and offer a set menu of courses and a choice of meat, fish or vegetarian entrees. Sea Cloud includes a white and red wine, beers and cocktails with dinner and lunch. Specialty coffees are also included.

A light early riser’s breakfast and lavish lunch and dinner buffets are offered in the sheltered Lido, which has a large bar and nice teak furnishings with polished brass accents. The Lido was added in 1978 and is where most activities occur, including enrichment lectures and live music.

The Lido is the main gathering spot on board Sea Cloud. * Photo: Peter Knego

With an emphasis on high quality meats and the very best in seafood (fresh lobster, crab, shrimp, oysters, etc.), a Sea Cloud cruise is highly regarded for the cuisine. I am mostly vegetarian but do eat the occasional cooked fish or chicken and was very satisfied with the salads, fresh veggies and side dishes, as well as the entrées.

prime rib for dinner on a Sea Cloud cruise

A prime rib entrée as served aboard Sea Cloud. * Photo: Peter Knego

Attire is elegant casual, although there is usually one night where guests may choose to get more dressy but overall, we did well with our khakis, polo and button down shirts at dinner and shorts by day. Complimentary daily laundry service is provided in the Main Deck suites but there is no self-service laundry and for non-suite guests, there are the usual pricey options, so it is wise to pack plenty of socks and underwear.

And while you have your suitcase open, throw in a couple bathing suits, good walking shoes (for navigating the decks and excursions) , bug spray (we had a handful of mosquito encounters) and sunblock.

At the far aft end of the ship, the Blue Lagoon has been a cherished gathering spot since 1931. Here, guests can lie back on cushioned seating and stare up at the sails and/or stars.

By day and night, the Blue Lagoon is a favorite spot for gazing upwards. * Photo: Peter Knego

What’s NOT To Do?

Life on board a Sea Cloud cruise is the antithesis of big cruise ship mode. There are very few announcements, no pool games (all the better since there isn’t a pool), no spa (not even a gym, although stretching classes on deck were held each morning), no casino, no Bingo or big stage entertainment (just a pianist and on rare occasions, a visiting local artist or musician who may perform), no alternate dining venues and very few, if any, kids.

Sea Cloud guests are content sitting in a deck chair, reading a book, conversing and soaking up the sun. They are fiercely loyal to the ship and savor watching crew members scale the four masts and unleash the ties that bind, only to rescale the masts hours later and retie the billowing canvasses to the yard arms.

Many guests only sail with Sea Cloud Cruises and some specifically with just this ship. On average, the breakdown is 60% German-speaking and 40% English speaking (namely from U.S., U.K., Canada and Australia).

It should also be noted that while the ship does have a doctor, there is no elevator and some of the deck areas are terraced, so this is not an ideal ship for those with mobility issues.

The bridge, which has a combination of original brass and the latest modern equipment, is open for visitors (except during maneuvers and very rough sea conditions) and there is a once-per-cruise engine room visit.

The Sea Cloud’s bridge has a combination of original and state-of-the-art equipment. * Photo: Peter Knego

One of the biggest highlights of each cruise is the photo safari — when conditions are just right, with the ship’s sails unfurled, the zodiacs are launched and guests are taken around the ship to photograph her in her full majesty.

Another special treat, depending on the itinerary and sea conditions, is the chance to jump into the sea from off the gangway to swim or lie out on floating mattresses. On our trip, we had no less than four opportunities to do this in the warm, crystalline Ionian and Adriatic waters.

Swimming off the side of the Sea Cloud is one of cruising’s greatest pleasures. * Photo: Peter Knego

Also, beginning this past March, all three Sea Cloud Cruises ships are offering guests the chance to climb up to the forward mast’s crow’s nest. The ship’s doctor provides a small fitness test and, of course, guests must sign liability waivers but the whole experience is done with the assistance of crew members and safety harnesses. I did not partake but was happy to send my fearless partner Mike up with my GoPro to capture the experience and gorgeous views.

VIDEO: Below is a look at what climbing Sea Cloud’s mast is like.

What I did do was climb out to the bowsprit, another experience Sea Cloud introduced in March, also with attending crew members and a safety harness, for an inspirational view from above the carved golden eagle ornament over the sea and aft towards the ship’s superstructure and towering masts.

Your Quirkycruise reporter climbing out onto the bowsprit. * Photo: Peter Knego

Sea Cloud Cruises Caveats … A Few Minor Ones

With an average 60% of passengers German, with all announcements and communications are in both English and German
No gym
Very low key lifestyle on board
No room service
No specialty dining
No elevator

Classic Ship in Classic Waters

Due to her size, the Sea Cloud can access ports that are almost as lovely as she is. But let’s be honest here, for most of her adoring guests, any itinerary, even this one, is second fiddle to the ship, herself.

The morning after our midnight departure from Piraeus, we anchored of Spetses, a village with a charming marina in the Saronic Gulf, where we found a nice beach with parasols and deck chairs for rent.

The brilliantly lit Sea Cloud shortly before her departure from Piraeus. * Photo: Peter Knego

A day at sea followed, giving us a chance to enjoy lectures from guest speaker, archaeologist Frank Hildebrant (in both German and English), Captain Sergey Komakin and Chief Officer Pavel about our itinerary, the weather forecast and how the sails are set.

In Fiscardo, Kefalonia, we swam alongside the ship, then tendered ashore for a pleasant visit to the cafe-lined marina, then took a short hike to the ruins of a lighthouse and monastery. The Sea Cloud water thermoses came in very handy here as the temperature hovered well over the 100 degree mark and would continue to do so for the rest of the cruise.

VIDEO: Below you can see what it’s like to swim above and beneath the pristine waters of Antipaxos.

At tiny, remote Antipaxos, we had access to a spectacular but rocky beach with the most gorgeous water I have probably ever swam in. There was another chance to swim off Sea Cloud’s side here, as well.

At Corfu, we enjoyed Sea Cloud’s culinary tour, offering tastings of local cheeses, a small lunch and a chance to sample some kumquat gelato. That evening was highlighted with a fascinating presentation on the history of the Sea Cloud by guest speaker Thomas Wu who is curating a special exhibit about the ship in early 2025 for the Hillwood Museum.

Sunrise over the Sea Cloud’s spanker deck as the ship approaches Corfu. * Photo: Peter Knego

In Brindisi, Italy, we took Sea Cloud’s walking tour of the Baroque town of Lecce and still had plenty of time after lunch to visit Brindisi, as well. Sea Cloud provided a complimentary bus service to central Bridisi, where there were numerous piazzas and a charming waterfront to explore.

In Dubrovnik, the Pearl of the Adriatic, we enjoyed a swim alongside the ship while she was anchored off the old port, then tendered ashore for a self-guided tour of the walled Medieval city where my father was born.

The view from the top of the great wall surrounding the Old Town of Dubrovnik. * Photo: Mike Masino.

Returning to the beautifully lit Sea Cloud at twilight was one of the visual highlights of the trip.

VIDEO: The beautiful Sea Cloud in all her glory in Dubrovnik.

The next morning, found the Sea Cloud anchored in the Strait of Peljesak between the rugged mainland Croatian coast and the tiny island of Korcula. Likened to a miniature, less crowded Dubrovnik, Korcula is a charming, friendly and beautiful town that is often cited as the birthplace of Marco Polo. Here, we enjoyed Sea Cloud’s walking tour and a wine and local appetizer tasting before we sailed off towards Venice.

That evening, the occupants of the Main Deck suites graciously opened up their staterooms for fellow guests to tour while staff circulated with appetizers and chilled champagne. A gala dinner followed in the Dining Room and Lounge, giving Sea Cloud’s loyal passengers a chance to regale in all of that vintage splendor.

On our penultimate day, Sea Cloud anchored in the middle of the Adriatic, allowing us one final chance to swim alongside and marvel at the ship, easily the most historic and beautiful apparition in the world of cruising. Packing and bracing for a return to “normal” life alternated with more time on deck watching those sails billow for a final time and soaking up more culture via the guest lecturers’ presentations.

All hands were on deck at dawn the final morning as Sea Cloud gently motored into Venice. She is one of the few active cruise ships, thanks to her small size, that can still sail into La Serenissima, via the Canale Giudecca and past the towering portals of San Giorgio and San Marco.

Our parting view of her magnificence was from a speeding water taxi as she proudly sat at Venice’s historic San Basileo terminal, getting ready to welcome and dazzle a brand-new complement of lucky guests.

Interested in This Sea Cloud Cruise?

For more information about a Sea Cloud cruise similar to this one, here’s more info. This 7-night “On the Trail of the Old Venetians” round-trip from Venice along the Croatia coast in Sept 2025 starts at $9,135 per person, including wine, open bar and gratuities.

For booking, please contact a travel advisor (we can refer you to our favorite advisor, just send Heidi a quick email for details, Heidi@quirkycruise.com) or go to www.seacloud.com.

And finally, get cozy with a cup of tea or a glass of vino and enjoy Peter’s full video tour of Sea Cloud’s opulent interiors and suites, below!