Nile River Cruise On The S.S. Sudan
By Carolyn Muraskin
Egypt had been at the top of my travel list for years, and in January 2023, I finally made the journey. As an architect turned tour guide in Washington, DC, I talk about design daily. While Washington offers a rich diversity of architectural styles, our civic buildings borrow generously from classical and ancient traditions. But compared to the millennia-old structures of the Nile Valley, America’s built history feels like a recent footnote.
A European guest once said to me, convivially, “My bathroom is older than your country” — which was both hilarious and absolutely true. Having studied American architecture extensively, I’ve long wanted to see some source material for myself.
To experience Egypt’s architectural wonders with depth and intention, my husband and I chose to travel by boat aboard the legendary steamship, the 48-passenger S.S. Sudan. The four-night cruise from Luxor to Aswan offered not just access to spectacular temples and tombs, but a chance to sail the waters that shaped some of the world’s most influential people and iconic architecture.
Choosing The S.S. Sudan For Our Nile River Cruise
There are many options for tourists to cruise the Nile, but for me, the S.S. Sudan stood out immediately. Full planning credit goes to my husband, who knows I can’t resist anything even remotely historic.
Travel entrepreneur Thomas Cook & Son built a series of first-class steamers in the early 1900s — the Egypt in 1907, the Arabia in 1911 and the Sudan in 1921. The ships attracted aristocrats and wealthy tourists from around the world.
One of those tourists was Agatha Christie, who drew inspiration for her famous murder mystery Death on the Nile (published in 1937) from sailing on the Sudan. (It also appeared in the 1978 and 2004 film adaptations.)
During World War II, the Sudan was abandoned at a Cairo dock and left to deteriorate for nearly 50 years. In the 1990s, a French travel company purchased the ship and lovingly restored it to its 1920s glory.
The S.S. Sudan is not just styled after a bygone era; it is the bygone era.
Up And Down And Up The Nile
Before embarking, we spent a few days in Cairo, visiting some of the city’s most famous sites: the Egyptian Museum, the Pyramids of Giza, the Great Sphinx, and the Mena House Hotel in Giza, where we stayed overnight (the 19th-century hotel in the shadow of the great pyramids was originally a hunting lodge). We’d return at the end of the trip for more exploration.
We then flew to Luxor to meet the S.S. Sudan for our four-night sail up the Nile. Before embarking, we stayed overnight at the legendary Old Winter Palace Hotel in Luxor and spent time in the Luxor Museum.
First Impressions Of Our Nile River Cruise On The S.S. Sudan
After a whirlwind few days, stepping onto the S.S. Sudan brought a sense of calm and anticipation. The ship’s period details — gleaming brass, polished wood, Edwardian furnishings — were enchanting.
The crew was warm, welcoming, and seemed genuinely joyful to share this experience with us.
Personal touches made the journey even more memorable. Everyone, from the waiters to the ship engineers, was kind and attentive. We were invited into the engine room for a tour, serenaded by live music on the sun deck, and our four-year-old son back home received a custom t-shirt from the cruise director with his name spelled in hieroglyphics. (He wore it nearly every day for the next six months.)
Life Onboard The S.S. Sudan
Each of the Sudan’s 18 cabins and six suites is named for someone tied to Egyptian history. (Naturally, we ran around reading all the plaques!)
Our cabin was modest in size but rich in character, with wood paneling, vintage light fixtures, a small writing desk, and sliding glass windows that framed the Nile like a moving painting.
Meals were served in a cozy dining room with wood-paneled walls and crisp white linens.
The menus blended Egyptian and European flavors, with dishes like grilled fish, tahini-rich salads, and hibiscus juice.
The staff was not just attentive — they were determined to ensure we enjoyed ourselves. One afternoon, when I didn’t care for my entrée and said I’d be fine with just pita and za’atar, our waiter insisted on bringing me something fresh and specially prepared.
The drawing room felt plucked from a Christie novel, complete with tufted armchairs, an upright piano, and a long wooden bar. I half expected Hercule Poirot to burst in with a mystery solved.
The sun deck, offering a mix of shade and sunshine, was perfect for watching the landscape drift by: golden fields, clustered palms, small villages, minarets outlined in the sunset, and ancient ruins rising from the banks.
This Nile River cruise on the S.S. Sudan was enchanting on board and off.
Savoring The Slowness Of A Nile River Cruise
One of the greatest gifts of the S.S. Sudan is the pace. We weren’t rushing from one historic site to another. Between excursions, we had long stretches of sailing, with time to read, reflect, or simply gaze at the river.
My husband and I took turns reading two perfectly relevant books: Cleopatra: A Life by Stacy Schiff, and of course, Death on the Nile. As travelers who tend to pack our days with activity, this kind of enforced relaxation was unexpectedly wonderful.
Itinerary Overview Of Our Nile River Cruise On The S.S. Sudan
Depending on the sailing schedule, the cruise travels either from Luxor to Aswan or in the reverse direction. Since the ship is operated by a French company, Voyageurs du Monde, most guests are European.
Excursions were offered in both French and English, led by knowledgeable, excellent guides who stayed aboard for the duration of the cruise. Our English-speaking group was a small and friendly cohort of just six travelers, while the French group numbered around 15 or 20.
Our four-night itinerary was as follows:
Day 1— Luxor: Board in Luxor, lunch on board followed by visits to the Temple of Karnak and sunset visit to Temple of Luxor, dock overnight.
Day 2 — Luxor: Visit Valley of the Kings, Valley of the Queens, including the Tomb of Nefertari and Tomb of Tutankhamen, and Village of Artisans. Lunch and dinner on board, sailing overnight.
Day 3 — Edfu/Kom Ombo: Visit Temple of Edfu, sail the Nile, sunset visit to Temple of Kom Ombo, dinner and dock overnight.
Day 4 — Aswan: Morning sail to Aswan, visit Temple of Philae, dinner and dock overnight.
Day 5 — Aswan: Disembark in Aswan after breakfast.
RELATED: Read More About Ports And Sights Along The Nile River In Ted Scull's Nile Overview.
RELATED: 5 Nile River Cruises We've Reviewed For You To Consider.
A Few Practical Notes
If you’re considering the S.S. Sudan, here are a few caveats to keep in mind:
- Given its age and design, the S.S. Sudan moves more than a modern river boat. Nothing dramatic, but it’s good to know if you’re motion sensitive. And the engine is very audible.
- The Wi-Fi is spotty. We considered this a perk, but don’t schedule a zoom call during your sail.
- The cabins are charming but not spacious or modern. This is part of the appeal, though worth noting.
- The focus is on history, not luxury. If you’re hoping for spa treatments and cocktail bars, this isn’t your boat.
Final Words About Our S.S. Sudan Nile Cruise
If you’re after atmosphere, history, and a true sense of place, this Nile River cruise on the S.S. Sudan is as good as it gets.
For details on pricing and booking the S.S. Sudan, contact them directly here.
If you're interested in hearing about other Nile River cruise options on more modern vessels (with a similar history focus in terms of onboard presentations and guided shore excursions), we always refer our dear readers to our favorite travel advisor Kevin, below.
Carolyn Muraskin is a trained architect and founder of DC Design Tours, where she and her team of expert guides lead design-focused tours across Washington, DC — on foot, by bike, car, and boat.
Interested In A Nile River Cruise?
For years, we've been referring our readers to our favorite travel advisor, Kevin Flink, because of his excellent customer service and expertise in travel planning. Kevin owns a franchise of Cruise Planners, one of the highest producing land and cruise travel agencies in the world, which means he gets access to various discounts and perks from cruise lines, hotels and insurance companies that he can pass on to his clients.
To show your interest in booking a Nile River cruise (or any cruise!) with Kevin, please tell us a bit more about what you’re looking for and we will be happy to get you both connected.
* Your personal information will be used solely for purposes of responding to your request.
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