We Loved Our Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise with AmaWaterways — It’s Perfect for Cycling Lovers

Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise

By Heidi Sarna

Pedaling to the magnificent Castle de Haar along a sun-dappled bike path through leafy suburban neighborhoods and past wheat fields and grazing cattle, I knew this week was going to suit me just fine.

Cycling to Castle de Haar. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

This was the first full day of our river cruise, and there would be 10- to 15-mile rides like this the entire week of our AmaWaterways’ Best of Holland & Belgium cruise aboard the 156-pax AmaStella.

(By the way, Holland is one of 12 provinces within the country of the Netherlands, so it’s more accurate to say my cruise was along the waterways of the Netherlands and Belgium.)

I love cycling, for the exercise, the liberating feeling of moving along with the breeze under your own power, and because it’s an excellent way to sightsee.

There’s no better way to soak up sights, both rural and urban, like a local. In the Netherlands and Belgium you can pedal nearly everywhere without having to worry about vehicular traffic thanks to some of the world’s best network of bicycle paths.

Cycling is a way of life in Europe, especially in the Netherlands & Belgium, here in Ghent. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

RELATED: Heidi shares 16 Europe river cruise cycling tips based on her personal experience.

Our First AmaWaterways River Cruise Won’t be Our Last

For my husband and me, our weeklong river cruise was the perfect combination of fitness and cycling all the while calling the luxury AmaStella our home base.

Cycling is our happy place, here from the port of Utrecht. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

AmaWaterways’ focus on wellness helps them stand out from the crowd of the many Europe-based river cruise lines and it’s a big reason we chose them.

Yes, other river lines also carry aboard bicycles for passenger use and some offer guided rides, but Ama goes the distance, scheduling daily cycle excursions, sometimes two a day.

Each is accompanied by Stella’s wellness host (in our case the friendly João from Portugal) and led by an enthusiastic local guide with knowledge of the area.

The Stella’s wellness host João accompanied all guided cycling tours, along with a local guide * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Amsterdam as a Convenient Start & End Point

The city of Amsterdam is known for its picturesque canals as well as striking architecture, world-class museums and its passionate cycling culture. And it’s super well connected by air and rail.

You’ll want to spend a few days there before or after your cruise.

Amsterdam is a city of canals. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

It’s not surprising Amsterdam is a hub for river cruising, as its waterways connect with not only the North Sea, but with the mighty Rhine River.

Many Rhine cruises start or end in Amsterdam. What is less well known, is that Amsterdam is also the round-trip base for cruises exploring Belgium and the Netherlands.

And not just at tulip time in the spring.

We were there in early September last year, and it was a lovely time of the year — still green and summery, but luckily not too hot.

Itinerary Overview of My Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise

Our 7-night route included a daily port of call usually for a full day.

There were two days with morning cruising when we watched the landscape float by from our private balcony and up on the expansive top deck to observe the region’s complex maze of waterways, canals, locks and dykes.

VIDEO: Cruising down the Rhine-Amsterdam canal from the comfort of our cabin balcony, below.

This isn’t a route lined with castles, like you’ll see on parts of the Rhine. Much of the inland waterways of Belgium and the Netherlands are busy commercial lanes for cargo being shipped to the Port of Rotterdam, Europe’s busiest.

The views along the way varied from farmland to lots of industrial areas with giant wind turbines. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

The Netherlands has a thriving economy with a robust export trade including everything from cheese, flower bulbs, cocoa butter and tomatoes to petroleum and aluminum.

AmaStella would do much of her cruising through the industrial areas at night or in the early morning hours. We’d wake up and like magic, be docked in a beautiful medieval village or city.

As on most river cruise routes around the world, we could step off the boat and immediately take a walk or hop on a bike.

The 800-year-old-plus ruins of the Het Steen castle were just steps (and a few pedals) from where AmaStella docked along the Scheldt River in Antwerp. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

This simplicity is the beauty of a river cruise versus big-ship ocean cruising — no big cruise terminals to wade through with thousands of others.

Excursion Options on my Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise

AmaWaterways includes excursions in the fares and there were generally two to four options to choose from in each port, including as I’ve explained above, lots of cycling!

Typically, daily options include:

• a walking tour straight from the mooring point
• and/or also a longer tour that required transport by bus
• a guided bicycle tour ranging from about 8 to 15 miles or so

Note that bicycle tours cannot be pre-booked before the cruise (as other excursions can), as the wellness host must assess each passenger (and have you sign a waiver too) before riding.

Walking & cycling tours both start at the end of the gangway. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

A Day-by-Day Look at Our Daily Excursions

Day 2: Utrecht, NL

We started the day off spending a few hours cruising along the broad, straight tree-lined Amsterdam-Rhine Canal, with scenic views of farmland and villages in the distance.

After lunch we docked in Utrecht, one of the Netherlands’ largest cities and a major railway hub. It’s known for its medieval quarter and beautiful Gothic cathedral.

Here, excursion options included a visit to the sprawling grounds of the eccentric late 19th-century Castle de Haar, either on a bus tour or a guided bicycle ride.

The late 19th-century Castle de Haar, * Photo: Heidi Sarna

We chose the bicycle ride along with 20 to 25 other passengers. As the week went on, the bicycle groups got smaller. (Sort of like the folks who join a gym in January and by February and March, stop going!)

The sprawling estate was rebuilt and restored between 1892 and 1912 on the site of the 13th-century medieval House De Haar. Today’s it’s a fairytale-inspired tribute to the past with its opulent décor and reputation as a popular party venue for the world’s rich and famous.

The ornate interior of the De Haar castle. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Day 3: Veere & Middleburg, NL

In the morning, we cruised the delta region of the Netherlands’ western coast before arriving at the medieval harbor town of Veere. We admired the pretty town square, cobblestone streets, beautiful flower-framed old homes and famous town hall with its 48-bell carillon.

Our guided cycle ride from Veere to Middleburg. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Excursions included a choice of two walking tours or a cycle tour.

You know which one we chose!

Our charming bicycle guide was a retired teacher who was passionate about the area.

We pedaled through the countryside, stopping at a dairy farm to visit the cows and sample some cheese.

Then it was on to medieval Middleburg, where our guide showed us several historic buildings, before looping back to Veere.

Our guide explaining the history of Middleburg. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

We cycled a total of about 14 miles (22 kms).

Day 4: Ghent, Belgium

Set at the confluence of the Leie and Scheldt rivers, medieval Ghent is in the Flemish region of Belgium and is the country’s third largest city after Brussels and Antwerp.

It’s also the entry point to travel to medieval Bruge (famous for its Michelangelo sculpture of Madonna and child), and AmaWaterways offered half-day and all-day bus tours there.

There was also a walking and cycling tour of Ghent. As we wanted to leave a bit later in the morning than the scheduled tour, we decided to cycle on our own.

After getting some basic directions from a crew member, we made our way the few miles to Ghent’s old quarter, admiring its many heritage sites, from the moated 12th-century Gravensteen (also known as “Castle of the Counts”) to the Grasleia row of guildhalls along the Leie river and the city’s flower-lined canals.

The heart of old Ghent was packed with heritage. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

As we would repeat on subsequent days, we wrapped up our self-guided tour with a refreshing Belgian beer and some of the country’s famous fries at a local cafe.

By the way, the French and Belgians still debate in which country French “frites” originated.

Refueling in Ghent! * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Brussels Wasn’t Meant to Be

Day five had originally been scheduled to call at the Belgian capital of Brussels. But due to commercial congestion at the main industrial locks in the area (remember, these waterways are very busy), our visit to Brussels was canceled due to time constraints.

At first, I felt a bit disappointed, as I have never been to Brussels.

But in no time, I was grateful, as I fell in love with Antwerp.

Days 5 & 6: Lovely Antwerp, Belgium

And so, Stella docked in Antwerp for two days instead of one.

(Some Brussels tours were still offered from Antwerp, including the all-day Battle of the Bulge WWII bus tour.)

We greatly enjoyed our first time to this appealing small-scale city with its many historic sites and interesting places to visit.

I just loved the ornate trim on the old 19th-century luggage and cargo sheds along the river in Antwerp. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Guided walking tours were offered, but on both days in Antwerp, we (of course!) did AmaWaterways’ guided cycle rides, both days with the same enthusiastic and extremely knowledgeable local guide.

Highlights for us included the guide taking us into Antwerp’s main railway station, a spectacular feast for the eyes built in the early years of the 20th century.

VIDEO: Our guide explains the many beautiful elements of station’s interior, below.  

https://youtube.com/shorts/jsaen_y5DeA?feature=share

We also enjoyed seeing the city’s Diamond District. Antwerp has been the focus of the diamond trade since the 15th century. And an enormous number of the world’s rough diamonds are still cut and polished and traded here by Jewish and Jain Indian dealers, known as diamantaires.

In Antwerp’s Diamond District. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Another highlight was the fascinating Red Star Line Museum, a tribute to the shipping line’s role in transporting millions of European immigrants from Antwerp to America’s Ellis Island between the 1870s and 1930s.

There was also time to cycle along the entire length of Antwerp’s waterfront, passing by a long line of old dock sheds with their frilly trim still intact and to Zaha Hadid’s iconic Port House.

Zaha Hadid’s iconic Port House in Antwerp. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

We made sure to pedal over to the Renaissance-style Town Hall, a stunning edifice set at one end of the city’s Grote Markt (main square). And then we headed to the museum that occupies the 17th-century house of Flemish baroque painter Peter Paul Rubens.

The Rubens Museum in Antwerp. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Afterwards we parked ourselves (and our bikes) at an open-air café for lunch to enjoy another taste of Belgian beers and more delish fries.

Cheers! * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Day 7: Our Last Day, Dordrecht & Kinderdijk, NL

Cycling tours aren’t canceled for light rain, so our morning ride in Dordrecht, Holland’s oldest city, carried on with just five of us plus the guide.

(Bringing a lightweight rain jacket with a hood is a good idea if you plan on cycling rain or shine.)

While some folks did a full day bus tour to Rotterdam and Delfshaven, we followed our chipper guide on a pleasant ride through Dordrecht and into the countryside where we had to make way for a herd of sheep to pass by!

VIDEO: Below, just a normal bahhhh-uitful day cycling through the countryside of Dordrecht!

https://youtube.com/shorts/BWLJJ_NIaTE?feature=share

After lunch on board, we looked forward to visiting the beautiful 18th-century windmills of Kinderdijk, a UNESCO world heritage site.

As the rain had gotten quite heavy for a spell, I opted for the boat tour through the canals around Kinderdijk, while my husband chose cycling and had the two guides to himself.

We had an opportunity to go inside one of the windmills to see how the basic, and very effective, technology still pumps water out of the numerous man-made canals and waterways of the Netherlands.

The guide telling us how the windmills work, before letting us go inside of it. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

We were told time and again how the history and culture of both low-lying countries, the Netherlands and Belgium, are wrapped up in their never-ending quests to stay dry.

The 18th-century windmills of Kinderdijk. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

VIDEO: A close-up look, below, at the windmills of Kinderdijk — the blades are gigantic!

Cabins on the AMA Stella

It was always comforting to come back to our luxurious cabin after a day cycling and exploring a new port.

Our cabin #206 was a roomy 235 square feet; a category AB cabin with both an outdoor balcony and a French balcony.

Our cabin balcony, a great perch. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Most cabins on the ship are similar twin-balcony rooms. There are also cabins with just French balconies and a handful with only fixed windows.

The beds were very comfortable and there was space for a desk, two chairs, and ample closets and storage. The pleasant bathroom had a large shower and adequate shelves.

VIDEO: Here’s a quick look at my cabin, below.

Dining on Our AmaWaterways’ Belgium & Netherlands Cruise

AmaStella has one main restaurant and we often sat in waiter Praveen’s section, finding him very efficient and friendly, always serving us a with a smile and an enthusiastic “no problem.”

Arun and our waiter Praveen. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

The other waitstaff and the lovely Maître d’ Pawel were also very capable and exceedingly professional (the only exception was a wine stewardess who was a bit short with some passengers on more than one occasion and seemed in need of some time off).

A colorful, compact space, the main restaurant offers both banquette seating for up to six as well as round tables seating eight. Since our cruise was only half full (about 75 passengers), the two of us often occupied a banquette solo. A few times we had dinner with new friends. It was nice to meet others, but we also appreciated dining alone when we didn’t feel like making small talk.

When the boat is running at full capacity, I imagine the dining room would feel quite cozy, so to speak, and you’d definitely have to dine at shared tables.

Breakfast was a hybrid of buffet-style standards and menu offerings such as eggs benedict or French toast.

My husband’s made-to-order dairy-free eggs Benedict. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Lunch and dinner were both sit-down with three choices for each course.

Overall, AmaStella’s food was good (though not amazing) and there was always something tasty to enjoy. And my husband’s gluten- and dairy-free diet was happily accommodated.

My favorites at lunch were the salads and a Thai shrimp curry, grilled fish with tomatoes salsa and veggies, and a tuna melt sandwich.

One of many delicious salads. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

For dinner, stand-outs included a classic salad Nicoise, grilled halibut with pico de gallo and a pan-fried breaded pork escalope with cucumber salad and cranberries.

The tasty pan-fried breaded pork escalope. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

We’re pretty easy to please, and enjoyed the mostly German, French and Austrian wines served at lunch and dinner.

Every lunch and dinner featured a several European wine suggestions. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

All guests have the option of dining at the cozy Chef’s Table specialty restaurant at the stern for nice views and an open-kitchen design. Featuring a seven-course tasting menu, it is meant to be a fancier dining experience with more doting service. (Sometimes I don’t want to be doted on so much!) It was a nice change, but we preferred the main restaurant.

Chef’s Table specialty restaurant has stern views. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Entertainment & Activities on AmaWaterway’s Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise

There were several daily exercise classes up on deck led by the wellness host João — from an early-riser’s stretching class to resistance bands (which I enjoyed), circuit training and/or core strengthening workouts — who also accompanied us on the guided cycle tours bringing up the back. There is also a small pool on deck.

Wellness host João leading exercises on deck. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

When we had time, my husband used Stella’s gym (impressive offering for a river boat), while I booked a massage late one afternoon in the adjacent massage room. It was excellent and one of the best I’ve had in a long time! And a reasonable 80 Euro for an hour.

Stella’s impressive gym. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Entertainment-wise, the large and stylish all-purpose lounge was the venue for pre-dinner cocktails and short presentations about the next day’s schedule by the charming cruise director and excursion manager Matija.

The view from one side of the main lounge, a quiet place to relax during the day, and a bustling hub before dinner. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

The ship’s musician Gancho would play live guitar or piano music at teatime each day and again before dinner and after.

By day, the lounge was a relaxing and quiet place to read or work, with a self-service coffee and tea station nearby, as well as a small but well-stocked souvenir shop.

Interested in This Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise?

The AmaStella is not doing this itinerary in 2023, but these four very similar AmaWaterways’ boats are doing a total of seven sailings in 2023 and 10 in 2024:

• AmaPrima (built 2013, 162 pax)
• AmaCerto (built 2012, 162 pax)
• AmaSerena (built 2015, 162 pax)
• AmaLucia (built 2021, 156 pax)

The starting rate for AmaWaterways’ Best of Holland & Belgium river cruise is $2,499 per person.

The stick-straight and scenic Rhine-Amsterdam Canal. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

Closing Thoughts About our Belgium & Netherlands River Cruise

We thoroughly enjoyed this cruise and I highly recommend it.

In a nutshell, here’s why:

• Conveniently sails round-trip from the heart of Amsterdam
• Both the Netherlands and Belgium are culturally rich seafaring countries packed with heritage
• We loved the opportunity to cycle every day on guided tours
• The itinerary was a bit off-the-beaten-track and we enjoyed exploring two countries we hadn’t yet seen extensively
• Our cabin was well laid-out and luxurious, with a lovely small balcony
• The nearly all-inclusive pricing includes excursions; wines and beers at lunch and dinner; and cocktails during the pre-dinner cocktail hour
• Efficient, friendly service
• Nice sized gym for a river boat
• Massage room was a great perk
• The top sun deck was expansive and great for just relaxing or walking/jogging laps
• Daily exercise classes offered

And so, I heartily recommend AmaWaterways’ Best of Holland & Belgium river cruise because of the great itinerary and the luxurious AmaStella, and I look forward to doing another AmaWaterways river cruise soon.

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