Canal du Midi Barge Cruise Review
By Donna Heiderstadt
The first time my friend Suzanne and I found ourselves about to board a seriously small boat for a week-long cruise with a handful of total strangers was in September 1997 in Turkey. As we thought back to that free-wheeling, low-budget gulet sailing adventure along the Turquoise Coast, we knew that our first-ever luxury canal-barge cruise in the south of France, which ranks among the most exclusive (as in priciest) ways to explore this region, would be remarkably different. More elevated. More epicurean. And definitely more effervescent.
Cue the Champagne!
Brief Overview: Is This Barge Cruise For You?
The Enchanté is an eight-passenger canal barge operated by European Waterways doing six-night cruises on the Canal du Midi in France’s Languedoc region, between late April and October.
Good Reasons to Book an Enchanté Barge Cruise
* Excellent food and wine.
* Barge travels at a relaxing leisurely pace.
* Cruising on the historic 17th-century Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which wends through beautiful landscape in southwestern France.
* Visits to beautiful medieval towns, most are not the least bit touristy.
* Excursions to vineyards for wine tasting.
* Transiting fascinating locks.
* Hot tub on sun deck.
* Convenient all-inclusive pricing.
Caveats
* A barge carrying eight passengers and five crew is an intimate experience; if someone is unpleasant it's hard to hide!
* Barge cruises are expensive, including this one, with fares about $8,000 per person for a 6-night cruise.
Welcome Aboard Enchanté: A Canal du Midi Cruise Like No Other
On a July afternoon three decades after our first small-ship cruise, we enjoyed a welcome glass of bubbly as we stepped aboard Enchanté, an eight-guest canal barge operated by European Waterways on the Canal du Midi in France’s Languedoc region — and learned we’d be cruising with just two other guests: a friendly, well-traveled Australian couple.
The only hesitation I'd harbored about canal barge cruising was that Suzanne and I needed to be prepared to share admittedly tight quarters with up to a half dozen complete strangers. We had hoped that none of our fellow guests would have oversized or disagreeable personalities that could potentially dampen our own enjoyment — and we lucked out with a couple close to our age who were culturally curious, active and engaging.
As we toasted our shared good fortune with gentle clinks of the crystal flutes that had been handed to us by Lea, one of our hostesses, we knew we were about to be well looked after — and well fed.
Soon, Hannah, the chef whose culinary talents we would applaud in the coming days even as our waistbands grew snug, appeared with a tray of crispy, creamy, buttery, cheesy nibbles to tease the gastronomic delights that awaited us.
We were in Salleles d’Aude, a town located on the Canal de la Robine with an esplanade featuring a beguiling Mediterranean mix of plane trees, palm trees, and bougainvillea. Not long after Enchanté’s five-person crew welcomed us, they got to work as our pilot, Manu, and captain, Beth, readied the barge for our sail to Le Somail, where we’d dock overnight.
I would normally have ducked into my cabin to unpack at this point, but as Manu guided Enchanté onto the Canal du Midi, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, which was completed in 1681 and totals nearly 150 miles, I realized the landscape would be spectacular from the get-go.
So, all four of us stayed put, sipping Champagne and snapping photos as we glided beneath a canopy of parasol pines and then past neat regiments of hunter-green cypress trees silhouetted against a pastel-blue sky filled with cotton-ball clouds.
It was a blissful start to a week of intentionally slowing down and savoring the food, wine, culture, and authenticity of this lesser-known region of southwest France.
The Story of Enchanté
From Belgian Freight Barge to Ultra-Deluxe Canal Hotel
Enchanté, named for the French word that means “delighted” or “pleased to meet you,” began her life in a less-refined way. This 100-foot vessel was built in Belgium in 1958 as a freight barge. She was converted to a hotel barge in 2008-2009, with a designation by European Waterways of “Ultra Deluxe,” the top tier of their three-level ratings system.
Life Onboard European Waterways’ Enchanté
Public Spaces & Saloon
Her indoor living spaces are located on two decks and are fully air-conditioned (and heated for spring and autumn sailings as the canal barge season here runs from April to early November). There’s Starlink Wi-Fi to keep guests connected, although charging devices requires a European adapter plug (two round prongs). There are no TVs.
The main deck houses an oak-floored Saloon and Dining Area as well as an open-concept kitchen where we could watch Hannah work her magic.
The décor is classic and inviting, with a comfy blue sofa and armchairs upholstered in a dotted fabric that gives French coastal vibes. The dining table with pale gray high-back chairs seats eight and a marble-topped Art Deco cabinet holds a selection of liquors. A nearby fridge has soft drinks, beer, and sparkling water, for self-service use.
VIDEO: Donna gives us a quick look at the dining area and lounge aboard Enchanté, below.
Guest Cabins: Cozy Comforts Below Deck
To access the four cabins on the lower deck, guests need to descend a curved staircase. Two cabins, including Figuier, which Suzanne I occupied, are located to the right and two are to the left.
All are around 165 square feet and feature a queen bed or two twins, a spacious wooden wardrobe and under-bed drawers for storage, small round portholes, and a teak-floored bathroom with a glass-walled shower, L’Occitane toiletries, and a two-drawer vanity. The only caveat is that guests who are six foot or taller may find the shower ceiling to be a bit low.
VIDEO: Below is a look at Donna's cabin.
VIDEO: See Donna's cabin bathroom, below.
Sun Deck Serenity and Slow Cruising
It was summer, so my favorite space ended up being the forward Sun Deck with its dining table for enjoying al fresco lunches and welcome-back aperitifs beneath a shaded canopy.
There’s also a hot tub for relaxing soaks as this elegant floating hotel lazily cruises a distance of about 40 miles — her average speed is a delightfully tortoise-like four miles per hour — navigating more than a dozen of the canal’s 63 locks.
VIDEO: Donna shows us the outdoor deck area, below, including the lovely hot tub.
VIDEO: Below is one of the interesting lock transits along the Canal du Midi.
Canal du Midi Barge Cruise Itinerary
Daily Highlights from Narbonne to Trèbes
Here’s where we went on our six-night journey (Sunday afternoon to Saturday morning) from Salleles d’Aude to Trebes; the route is opposite on alternating weeks.
Day 1: We were met mid-afternoon in Narbonne by our personable captain, Beth, and transferred to Salleles d’Aude; we then cruised to Le Somail and docked for the evening.
Day 2: We visited Le Mas d’Antonin, a private farm, for a tour, olive-oil tasting, and truffle-hunting demonstration, before returning to Le Somail, which we explored before Enchanté sailed to Roubia.
Day 3: From Roubia, we visited the local market in Narbonne with chef Hannah. Then, since all four of us guests had stayed pre-cruise in Narbonne and had already toured its top sights (which is the usual daily excursion), we visited Abbaye de Fontfroide before cruising to Homps.
Day 4: From Homps, we visited the 17th-century wine estate Chateau de Paraza for a tasting and lunch. Then Enchanté cruised to Puicheric.
Day 5: As Enchanté cruised from Puicheric, we went ashore to watch her navigate a double lock, and then walked a pathway alongside the canal to rendezvous with the barge in Marseillette for an afternoon excursion to Minerve.
Day 6: We enjoyed a morning visit to the fortified city of Carcassonne, before sailing to Trebes.
Day 7: In Trebes, we bid adieu to Enchanté and its lovely crew and were transferred back to Narbonne.
Memorable Excursions Along the Canal du Midi
Each day our small group enjoyed excursions led by Beth, who wore two hats as both captain, assisting Manu from land as Enchanté navigated locks and docked, and as our driver and guide.
We were also able to independently explore several small villages since we typically tied up for the night around 5:00 pm, giving us ample time for a pre- or post-dinner walk.
Sunset Strolls in Le Somail
One of our favorite strolls was that first evening in picturesque Le Somail, which is home to several waterside restaurants and a must-see bookstore, Le Trouve Tout du Livre, which stocks 80,000 books.
It was “magic hour,” that time just before sunset when everything is bathed in a golden glow, as Suzanne and I crossed Le Somail’s pretty arched stone bridge, which in mid-July was topped by baskets of cascading petunias and begonias. We snapped photos of the tranquil Canal du Midi, of Enchanté just below us, and of café patios strewn with twinkling lights. It was an enchanting first chapter of our journey.
VIDEO: Donna shows us what it's like cruising toward Le Somail, below.
Olive Oil Tasting at Le Mas d’Antonin
On our excursion the next morning, we saw a slice of Languedoc life at Le Mas d’Antonin, a small farm run by mother and daughter Eléna and Clemence Anton that specializes in olive oil and truffles. Beneath cerulean skies dabbled with wispy white clouds, the rolling landscape of slender cypresses and gnarled oak and olive trees created a tableau straight out of a Van Gogh masterpiece.
Seated in the tasting room, we sampled a series of the farm’s olive oils paired with local charcuterie, cheese, and fig jam before heading back outside to follow Soika, a spunky golden retriever who is one of the farm’s four truffle-hunting dogs, as she offered a sniff-and-dig demonstration. Eléna and Clemence’s passion for their land and their products was the kind of authentic, low-key immersion that is a hallmark of luxury canal-barge cruising.
Back aboard Enchanté, we were welcomed with espresso martinis and an alfresco three-course lunch, as we bid au revoir to Le Somail and set off on a two-and-a-half-hour cruise to Roubia. The hot tub beckoned as Robyn, the barge’s other hostess, served us cool refreshments during our leisurely afternoon sojourn.
French Market Visit in Narbonne
Visiting a French food market is a must and on our second morning, Beth drove us back to Narbonne to join Chef Hannah as she sourced ingredients for the day’s buffet lunch and for future meals.
We inhaled the briny aroma of fresh oysters as Hannah asked her favorite fish monger for a few slurp-able samples. Displays of pungently seductive French cheeses had us at hello, while plump, glistening olives earned our unanimous thumbs up. Hannah also gently placed fragrant peaches and berries into brown paper bags to add to our breakfast buffet.
From there, we headed to the nearby Abbaye de Fontfroide, which we had all agreed to swap for a tour of Narbonne, happy that flexibility is a perk of small-group travel. The abbey, which dates to the 11th century, was purchased in 1908 by artist and collector Gustave Fayet, who transformed it into a place dedicated to the arts. We toured its restored interiors, now hosting modern art exhibits, and trekked up to the top of the terraced gardens to enjoy the view.
Wine Tasting at Château de Paraza
Wine-tasting at a private French chateau? Mais oui! On Wednesday, Beth dropped us at the family-owned Chateau de Paraza to enjoy a sampling of red, white, rosé, and orange wines from the local Minervois region.
Our tasting, where we fell in love with the estate’s 2018 Cuvée “1” red, a blend of Syrah and Grenache aged for 12 months in French oak, was followed by lunch in the 17th-century chateau’s dining room hosted by Lucile Danglas, a second-generation owner. She welcomed us as she would friends and we couldn’t leave without taking a bit of Chateau Paraza with us — and Beth graciously bought a bottle of “1” for us enjoy with dinner.
Walking Along the Canal Tow Path
All that fabulous French wine, enjoyed with incredible cheeses, freshly baked bread, and Hannah’s multi-course menus, had us yearning for a good, calorie-burning walk. We got our chance on Thursday in Puicheric as we all opted to trek about five miles along a canal-side path (bikes are also available) as Enchanté navigated a series a locks en route to Marseillette.
Walking is actually faster than cruising this section of the canal and we beat our barge by about 45 minutes, so Suzanne and I ducked into a café for a refreshing panaché (beer mixed with lemonade).
After lunch back onboard, we all joined Beth and Manu on a canal-side court for a spirited match of the French lawn bowling game petanque. They were pros to our amateurs, but it was so much fun we would have gladly played for hours.
Exploring Medieval Minerve & Carcassonne
Minerve, however, was on our late-afternoon agenda. This secluded medieval hilltop town, set between two scenic gorges, was once a Cathar stronghold and is considered one of the most beautiful villages in France. It was delightfully uncrowded — one of the benefits of visiting a region that’s not overrun by tourists.
Equally lovely was the surprise that awaited us back aboard Enchanté. A local duo, Dorine and Eric, were there to serenade us over cocktails (and those plump market olives) with songs by music legends ranging from Edith Piaf to Elton John.
The next morning, we headed to the region’s star attraction: Carcassonne. Yes, it was significantly more crowded than Minerve, but still magnificent and not to be missed. With its 52 towers, imposing ramparts, and winding cobblestone streets, it’s a living fantasy of medieval life — albeit with 21st-century trappings such as a five-star hotel, souvenir shops, and gelato stands.
Our final meander along the Canal du Midi brought us to Trebes, where we gathered to enjoy a cocktail party with our wonderful crew — who emerged from their quarters chicly dressed for the occasion — followed by a farewell dinner. We didn’t want to hear that word, farewell, although neither Suzanne nor I could imagine what another week of croissants, baguettes, and triple-cream French cheese would mean for our waistlines. Such are the perils of a luxury sojourn aboard Enchanté.
Our Gastronomic Journey Aboard Enchanté
French Fine Dining on the Canal du Midi
About all that caloric overindulgence. Chef Hannah’s tantalizing gastronomic tour of the region was a journey unto itself. Suzanne and I had given advance notice that neither of us eats red meat, but we’re okay with fish and poultry. Our new Australian friends were omnivores, but said they also enjoy seafood, so Hannah took all that into consideration as she prepared superb three-course lunches and four-course dinners. And Lea and Robyn graciously appeared table-side at the ready with pours of a different white and red wine nightly.
Highlights of Chef Hannah’s Regional Menus and Wines
Detailing our menus for the entire week would instantly add 10 pounds to this review, so I’ll just highlight a few of our favorite dishes.
Our Day 1 dinner started with sole Chablisienne, followed by duck breast with cherry sauce, the obligatory cheese trio (Petit Camembert, Brillat-Saverin, and Bleu du Queyras), and a chocolate delice dessert that was the bomb! The wines: Chateau Ollieux Romanis, Cuvée prestige 2021 Blanc, and Chateau La Voulte Gasparets, Cuvée Romain Pauc 2022.
Day 2’s al fresco lunch was perfectly refreshing: carrot, ginger and coconut soup followed by a splendid salad Niçoise and a delightful bowl of Eton Mess. It all paired perfectly with a lovely rosé, the Chateau La Coste, Vin de Provence 2023.
Fast forward to lunch on Day 5, which started with a velvety vichyssoise, followed by trout with lentil salad (pork for the meat-eaters) and panna cotta, all paired with a Chateau de Grezan Faugere 2024 rosé.
That evening we enjoyed my favorite meal of the week: a red onion and goat cheese tart, followed by guinea fowl with sauce Diane, three superb cheeses (Sainte-Maure de Touraine, Brie Aux Truffes, and Bleu Des Causses), and a generous portion of tiramisu. The wines? A Gustave Lorentz, Riesling, Alsace Grand Cru 2020 and a Combe aux Louves, La Clape 2022.
Additional kudos to Chef Hannah for her asparagus and pea risotto, her lime chile prawns with mango salsa, and her tarte au citron. I also got to try Suzanne’s favorite cheese, a creamy raw-milk Epoisses that’s available in Canada, where she lives, but not in the U.S.
Final Thoughts: Why European Waterways’ Enchanté Delights
The Allure of Slow Travel in Southwest France
A few weeks after returning home, I am still trying to ditch the extra pounds that I so enthusiastically accumulated. And yet I’m equally enthused to confess that I’m totally smitten with the languid pace and elevated yet unpretentious ambience of luxury canal-barge cruising.
My only question: Where to barge next?
How to Book a Canal du Midi Barge Cruise
Enchanté Pricing & Travel Logistics
European Waterways’ Enchanté is available for private charter from April through early November, starting at $62,000 for up to eight guests. On an individual cabin basis, prices start at $8,250 per person (double occupancy). The only expense not included is crew gratuities.
As transfers are included in the fares, Enchanté guests are picked up (and dropped off) in Narbonne, France, which is two hours by train from Barcelona, the nearest international gateway with nonstop flights from/to the U.S. Other gateway options include Toulouse, Bordeaux, Marseille, and Paris.
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New York-based travel writer Donna Heiderstadt booked her first cruise in 1995, took a 120-day world cruise in 1999 and will soon enjoy her 100th sailing.
Interested In This Barge Cruise?
Experts in barge cruising for more than 50 years, European Waterways offers luxury hotel barge cruises in nine European countries, from the Thames River in England to the Midi in Southern France and the Scottish Highlands. The European Waterways barge fleet has vessels accommodating from six to 20 passengers with cabin sizes varying from cozy and compact to ultra-deluxe staterooms comparable to top hotel rooms.
Barge cruises are super convenient; you won't have to lift a finger! Pricing is all-inclusive, covering all meals, wine and spirits; guided excursions and entry fees; and transfers to/from a central point (for example, Narbonne or Paris). European Waterways can help you choose the best canal barge cruise for your next dream vacation.
To show your interest in a 6-night barge cruise offered by European Waterways, please tell us a bit more about what you’re looking for and we’ll be happy to get back to you right away.
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HEIDI SARNA
