Complete Mississippi River Cruise (2026): A Review Of 21 Nights Aboard American Serenade

Cruising The Complete Mississippi River

By Lynn & Cele Seldon

It takes three weeks to cruise the entire Mississippi River from New Orleans, Louisiana, to St. Paul, Minnesota, and this epic journey has always been on Lynn’s river cruise bucket list. So, when the opportunity presented itself to sail with American Cruise Lines aboard American Serenade, one of their new modern American Riverboats, for a 22-night itinerary called the “Complete Mississippi River Cruise,” we jumped at the chance.

While our itinerary departed from New Orleans, a complete Mississippi sailing can also be done from the opposite direction; a 15-night itinerary called the “Grand American Heartland.” Why is it shorter than cruising north?

Beginning in St. Paul, Minnesota, and cruising southbound, the “Grand American Heartland” cruise moves more quickly with the river’s currents and stops at fewer ports — and thus it’s shorter — while still allowing guests to see the entire river.

However, we were more than happy to be sailing the longer 22-night itinerary from New Orleans (which comprises a pre-cruise hotel night plus 21 nights aboard American Serenade), allowing for a more leisurely cruise and more ports — and time — on the “Mighty Mississippi.”

“The Mississippi River towns are comely, clean, well built, and pleasing to the eye, and cheering to the spirit. The Mississippi Valley is as reposeful as a dreamland…” — Mark Twain, Life on the Mississippi

The American Cruise Lines Backstory

American Cruise Lines has become the major player in the U.S. river and small ship cruise industry. The company has a 50-year history of introducing small new ships that exclusively cruise in the USA. Today, so far, American has 28 small ships, including its modern “American Riverboat” class, and the only classic-style paddlewheelers available in the country for overnight cruises.

American’s “Riverboat” class currently includes these nine 180-passenger musically-named and -themed ships, including the one we cruised on:

• American Encore (2026)
• American Serenade (2023)
• American Symphony (2022)
• American Melody (2021)
• American Jazz (2020)
• American Harmony (2019)
• American Song (2018)
• American Anthem (2027)
• American Grace (2028)

These nine each hold 180 guests and feature what the company says are the largest standard double-occupancy staterooms of any riverboats in the world as well as multiple single staterooms (available without supplement) and large suites.

Serenade has at total of seven single cabins, located across three decks (in fact, all American ships have solo cabins), plus 10 larger verandah suites and six sprawling two-room suites, all on Deck Four. Worthy of a note is that American Encore (coming in May 2026) will introduce American’s newest class of suite, the Signature Suite, at more than 1,000 square feet.

This group of ships all have a grand multi-story atrium, several sizeable lounges, and private balconies for every stateroom, among other amenities.

The American Cruise Lines Fleet & Itineraries Options Continue To Expand

Thanks to Americans’ robust ship building schedule, more small new ships are scheduled to launch for many years to come. Combine that with 50-some U.S itineraries, including: the Mississippi, Tennessee, Arkansas, Cumberland, and Ohio rivers; the Columbia and Snake rivers; the Hudson River; cruises sailing along the East Coast from Maine to Florida; and West Coast itineraries, including Puget Sound cruises and Alaska cruises.

In 2026, American has also added the first all-domestic cruises available on the Great Lakes (we’ve sailed the Great Lakes with American’s affiliated line, Pearl Seas Cruises, and enjoyed it; here's our review).

American’s U.S. cruises currently visit 35-plus states and range from seven to 55-days in length. All cruises, both river and coastal, visit only U.S. ports of call.

Their fleet includes several kinds of small ships, including modern riverboats (like American Serenade), plus four traditional-style paddlewheelers. Note, while the paddles on these four paddlewheel riverboats assist in the propulsion, the paddlewheelers are mainly powered and steered by modern engines and navigation systems.

Other small ships include new Patriot Class ships, Coastal Cats, Constellation Class, and Independence Class ships (some of these also cruise rivers, like the Hudson and itineraries that blend rivers and coastal waterways, such as in Maine).

Given all of this, American’s growing fleet offers many combinations to entice a variety of cruisers who have been wanting to try river cruising, as well as veteran cruisers like us who often prefer staying closer to home and sailing on protected waterways.

And while American’s itinerary repertoire continues to expand, their Mississippi cruises remain a big part of their core offerings. They schedule Mississippi River cruises year-round, with a variety of 7- to 22-night itineraries (including holiday cruises) aboard five Mississippi ships (three modern riverboats and two classic paddlewheelers).

Our Complete Mississippi River Cruise, Day By Day

The following report is an extensive day-by-day overview of our 22-night “Complete Mississippi River Cruise,” starting in New Orleans, Louisiana and concluding in Red Wing, Minnesota (near St. Paul), with planned stops in:

• New Orleans (embark)
• Vacherie, LA
• Baton Rouge, LA
• St. Francisville, LA
• Natchez, MS
• Vicksburg, MS
• Greenville, MS
• Tunica, TN
• Memphis, TN
• Cape Girardeau, MO
• St. Louis, MO
• Hannibal, MO
• Muscatine, IA
• Dubuque, IA
• Winona, MN
• Red Wing, MN (debark)

Days 1 & 2: A Taste Of The Big Easy Before Boarding

As with all American Cruise Lines itineraries, our “Complete Mississippi” cruise started with a hotel night in the busy embarkation port of New Orleans. Of course, we foodies couldn’t resist flying in a day earlier to take an extra bite out of the Big Easy.

Even though our cruise itinerary already offered a one-night included hotel stay at the upscale Intercontinental New Orleans by IHG, we chose to arrive to New Orleans earlier, enjoying a two-night hotel stay which offered even more time in New Orleans.

For us it was worth it, as it allowed extra time to enjoy the Big Easy’s amazing culinary scene and much more.

Our first meal was at 34, Food Network star Emeril Lagasse’s new place, helmed by his protégé son, E.J. Lagasse. The Portuguese-leaning menu made it hard to choose, so we went for several small plates to taste as many dishes as possible, including batatas bravas (Portuguese-style potatoes), grilled greens (kale and turnip greens), tasty salt cod fritters, more.

We enjoyed lunch with Liz Williams, the founder of the city’s renowned Southern Food and Beverage Museum. We met her at the grand opening of the Culinary Institute of the South’s Foodseum in Bluffton, South Carolina, and Liz was kind enough to give us a tour of the fascinating museum after our lunch at 34. The sprawling location also includes the Museum of the American Cocktail. Foodies will love this pre-cruise destination.

We often write about culinary travel and frequently have features on the Food Network’s robust website, FoodNetwork.com, with lots of samples of our work for them here, including one we did for them about the best food on cruise ships (including the classic “Surf & Turf” onboard American Cruise Line ships, which features roasted tenderloin of beef, Maine lobster claws, pan-seared scallops, and grilled asparagus).

Our food- and drink-focused 48 hours in New Orleans before boarding the ship also included: several great events at the New Orleans Wine and Food Experience (NOWFE), including two very educational wine “labs” and their popular Tournament of Rosés rosé and food tasting; charcuterie and more at Cochon Butcher; creative rustic Italian fare at Ristorante Gianna; and, of course, several stops for beignets and café au lait along the way.

The mid-day shuttle buses from the hotel to the nearby American Serenade got us onboard by lunchtime (of course) and gave us five hours to explore our homebase for the next 21 nights, before setting sail from New Orleans up the Mississippi River at 5pm sharp.

Welcome Aboard

As is typical, there was a welcome reception the first evening onboard, which always gives us a great opportunity to meet our fellow passengers and perhaps pick a few we might enjoy a drink or dinner with during our sailing (the dining room offered tables for two, four, and six, with the two-tops often hard to nab). The reception included a welcome toast from the captain, free-flowing beverages, appetizers, and entertainment.

In general, on that evening and throughout the cruise, we found our fellow passengers to be well-travelled on land and sea (including about 20 passengers from Europe and Australia) As with most river cruises, American’s cruise passengers tend to skew “older” (with most guests in their mid-70s), but this longer itinerary included many in their 80s, who were all veteran members of the line’s Eagle Society (many with hundreds of nights onboard American’s ships).

During the reception, we learned that 19 of our fellow passengers were on an incredible journey billed as, “The Longest Cruise in America.” Called “The Great United States,” the 51-night trip started in Portland and ended in Boston, including three cruises (“Columbia & Snake Rivers,” our “Complete Mississippi River Cruise,” and “Grand New England”) and guided land exploration in three national parks (Glacier, Yellowstone, and Grand Teton), with transport on the land sections via motorcoach.

We really enjoyed chatting with these lucky passengers during the rest of the cruise, before they disembarked with us in Red Wing and headed to Boston. (Note, while St. Paul is often mentioned in American’s website, the final port is actually Red Wing, about 45 miles downriver from St. Paul.)

In a great presentation that was remarkably not sales-y, we also learned about American’s other extended cruise options, including the 35-night “Civil War Battlefields” cruise, which incorporates three cruises and special land exploration focusing on the War Between the States. American is greatly expanding their extended cruises in 2026 to celebrate America’s semi quincentennial (250th birthday), with itineraries ranging from 32 to 55 nights, including an updated version of  “The Great United States” and “Civil War Battlefields” cruises, plus two others.

Day 3: Vacherie, LA

We quietly arrived at our first port of Vacherie in the middle of the night. It’s a small town whose claim to fame is that it includes one of the oldest family-owned Ford dealerships in the country, which is just across the levee from where the ship docks.

As with every American Cruise Lines stop, there is at least one complimentary shore excursion offered. No matter what the itinerary, there are free experiences offered, as well as premium and signature excursion options, and this was especially true on our itinerary, which offered dozens of different possibilities over the length of the cruise (we counted 80-plus excursions for this cruise).

The small size of the ship made disembarking for excursions easy, and several passengers noted the crew’s help with passengers with mobility issues. One passenger said, “Although we didn’t need assistance, the crew was amazing in how they handled those passengers using walkers and scooters.”

We took advantage of both free and paid excursions and, as with past cruises, found the premium and signature options to be well-priced for the value-added special-interest offerings. A few 2025 prices for premium and signature excursions are mentioned in this feature, but they ranged from just $15 or so for shorter outings to $195 for the well-worth-it day-long Graceland Experience.

Excursion staff onboard and ashore were knowledgeable and always helpful, as were our bus drivers, who followed us from New Orleans to Red Wing (MN) and always went out of their way to continue the excellent ACL experience on land.

For sleepy Vacherie, there were actually two complimentary choices Oak Alley Plantation and Houmas House and Gardens. They were both offered in the afternoon, and we opted for nearby Oak Alley Plantation, including its pretty oak-lined approach, a guided “Great House” tour, self-guided tours of the grounds and recreations of slave cabins, and a complimentary mint julep near their bustling shop. Passengers told us that the Houmas House and Gardens excursion was equally interesting.

In the morning, we chose a premium excursion called “Ca c’est bon — Cajun Culinary Lagniappe Experience” at the Cajun Village. It was $50 per person and well worth it, thanks to Pirogue Adventures hosts Bruce and Kim Waguespack, who taught our group of five how to cook jambalaya hands-on.

One well-traveled passenger from Australia on his first American Cruise Lines sailing said he had to look on a map to see where Louisiana was located and on Google what jambalaya was, but he was a big fan of the state and the dish after two hours with Bruce and Kim. We learned lots of Cajun culture while cooking up the tasty jambalaya, which we enjoyed with Kim’s corn maque choux. Bustling Cajun Village also includes two large alligators, great shopping, coffee, beignets, and more.

Day 4: Baton Rouge, LA

Due to a barge docking problem at American’s normal downtown dock in Baton Rouge on the morning of day four, American Serenade had to continue to our scheduled day five stop, historic St. Francisville, Louisiana. However, we were only a half-hour from Baton Rouge, so the ship’s creative crew pivoted and simply used American’s private cruise coaches that were following the ship to shuttle us back to Baton Rouge for most of the planned excursions.

We chose the complimentary afternoon Capitol Park Museum Exploration excursion, which included 90 minutes at the excellent two-story Capitol Park Museum, across from the Louisiana State Capitol (the tallest capitol building in the country), which would remain one of our favorite museums among more than a dozen varied possibilities on the museum-heavy Complete Mississippi itinerary.

With exhibits ranging from the Louisiana Purchase to “The Louisiana Experience” through three regions of the state, Mardi Gras, music of the region, and Louisiana’s natural world, we could have stayed longer.

American Cruise Lines also ran a coach back to Baton Rouge for the complimentary “Baton Rouge City Experience,” with stops at the Governor’s Hall, the historic Old Louisiana State Capitol, Magnolia Mound, the aforementioned 34-story state capitol, Arsenal, and more.

Day 5: St. Francisville, LA

We stayed docked overnight in historic St. Francisville after our “Baton Rouge” day and awoke on Day 5 for our St. Francisville excursions possibilities. The ship was docked about a mile out of the small town.

The most popular morning excursion was to The Myrtles (complimentary), a former cotton and indigo plantation built in 1796 by General David Bradford that’s supposedly haunted. The unique “Louisiana Prison Museum Exploration” excursion went to the Angola Museum at the Louisiana State Penitentiary, the largest maximum-security prison in the nation. This was a low-priced and quite popular premium excursion, which many of us found funny, in that passengers paid to go to prison.

Lunch back on the ship featured a tasty whole hog barbecue spread (called cochon du lait) from a nearby restaurant and caterer, as well as a Cajun music duo rocking the restaurant. All lunches and dinners on board also offered included beer and wine selections.

In the afternoon, we went to the Audubon State Historic Site at historic Oakley Plantation on a premium excursion. In 1921, John James Audubon and an apprentice came to the plantation and Audubon completed 32 of his famous bird portraits while tutoring the Pirrie family’s daughter. We enjoyed an interesting house tour, a blacksmithing demonstration, and the peaceful grounds with lots of birds and other wildlife. There was also a popular St. Francisville Local Loop that included the town’s many historic homes (many on the National Historic Register) and other stops (these popular local loops are always complimentary).

Day 6: Natchez, MS

As is typical with most American Cruise Lines ports across the country, the Serenade docked directly in downtown Natchez, making for easy access to most attractions. There was a complimentary two-hour morning excursion called “Natchez Landmark Exploration,” which included a self-guided tour of downtown’s historic Rosalie Mansion and the Basilica of St. Mary, plus great views of the Mississippi River from the Natchez Bluffs.

Day 7: Vicksburg, MS

Of course, Vicksburg is best-known for historic Vicksburg National Military Park for good reason, but there’s much more to see and do in and around this interesting city.

The morning’s complimentary three-hour “Vicksburg National Military Park Driving Exploration” was very informative, including several stops of interest on the pivotal battlefield.

As with most bus tours with American Cruise Lines, a chatty step-on local guide provided lots of history and insights, including a stop at the U.S.S. Cairo Gunboat and Museum. The entire park was especially interesting to Lynn, a military college graduate (he attended the Virginia Military Institute, where Stonewall Jackson once taught).

For lunch, we walked to Vicksburg’s friendly Solly’s Hot Tamales in search of famed Mississippi hot tamales. It’s a stop on the Mississippi Delta Tamale Trail and we loved trying their tasty tamales as a stand-alone treat of three, as well as the small “Fiesta,” which featured two tamales topped with their equally famous chili, refried beans, cheese, sauce, jalapeno peppers, and more, served with a side of tortilla chips.

Day 8: Greenville, MS

We only had a half-day in historic Greenville, but we packed a lot in during our five-hour stop. A lot of our fellow passengers chose the complimentary excursion to the B.B. King Museum and Delta Interpretive Center in nearby Indianola (a half-hour by bus), but we had been there previously as part of an epic road trip on the Americana Music Triangle, which connects New Orleans, Memphis, Nashville, and dozens of other lyrical Americana music hotspots.

We stayed in downtown Greenville and took advantage of the “Greenville Museum Shuttle,” which featured several interesting museums and friendly locals to share diverse stories. The three shuttle stops were: Benjy Nelken’s Greenville History Museum (packed with Greenville memorabilia); the 1927 Flood Museum (which presents the history of one of America’s greatest natural disasters); and Hebrew Union Temple’s Century of History Museum, which details the vibrant Jewish culture of Greenville since 1867.

We were disappointed that we weren’t staying in town until evening because famed Doe’s Eat Place was only open at night. Famous for the Mississippi hot tamales and huge steaks, we’d read about Doe’s as part of the Mississippi Delta Tamale Trail and decided to stop by anyway for a picture — and we were so glad we did!

The screen door to Doe’s had an “Open” sign, so we headed in for what turned out to be one of the tastiest highlights of our cruise (at least off the ship). Once inside, we happily learned they sold their tamales to go during the day before opening for dinner in the evening.

The grandson of Doe’s founder (Dominick “Doe” Signa), Charles Signa, Jr. (“Little Charles”), took us on a tour of the rustic restaurant, including getting to see the tamales being made and learning about the restaurant’s history since opening in the same spot in 1941. We then met his father (Doe’s son), Charles, and Doe Signa III (Little Doe) and got a picture with all of them, plus their veteran chef, David Brown. Before we left this friendly place and family, we were carrying a bag of three still-warm and very tasty tamales and a Doe’s Eat Place apron.

Back on the ship, we enjoyed an afternoon and evening of river cruising enroute to Tunica, Mississippi, where we arrived the next morning.

Day 9 (morning): Tunica, MS

We had another half-day stop at Tunica River Park, with five hours being just right for this port of call. Tunica River Park is located at Tunica Resorts (there’s a casino nearby) and is actually about 20 minutes north of the town of Tunica proper.

For us, the highlight of this port was the sprawling three-story Mississippi River Museum (yep, yet another museum, but yet another good one). Serenade passengers had complimentary admission to the museum, which features two floors of varied exhibits and a third-floor observation deck that provided splendid views of our ship and the Mississippi River.

Exhibit highlights included: a map room; four large aquariums and a wetlands display; King Cotton; a river navigation simulator; and stand-alone exhibits highlighting Native Americans, DeSoto and the Conquistadors, colonial settlements and the Louisiana Purchase, 19th-century steamboats, the Mississippi River Commission and the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, blues culture, floods, and much more.

There was also a popular 2.5-hour complimentary excursion to the Gateway to the Blues Museum, just 10 minutes from the ship, but we had also gone there on our Americana Music Triangle road trip. Many music fans onboard reported that the museum was as good as we remembered it. It’s located in an appropriately rustic building on the Blues Highway (US 61) and includes interactive exhibits, artwork, and even a recording studio for visitors to record their own blues song.

Days 9 (evening) & 10: Memphis, TN

We then enjoyed another afternoon of river cruising while sailing for Memphis, Tennessee, where we arrived early-evening to find our buses awaiting us for the Beale Street Evening Shuttle ($20/person in 2025), where we enjoyed live guitar blues at B.B. King’s Blues Club (we heard they have great ribs) and Rum Boogie Cafe, where there were dozens of autographed guitars, including one from B.B. King.

Our hankering for Memphis-style ribs led us to nearby historic Charlie Vergos Rendezvous, one of the world’s top stops for ribs and other classic ‘cue offerings. The Vergos family has been serving their signature rub ribs and more in a basement down an alley across from the Peabody Hotel since 1948. This was a return visit for us and the ribs were as good as we remembered (and lots of locals and visitors seemed to agree with us on that packed Saturday night in Memphis).

Day 10: More Memphis

The next day included a lot of varied Memphis excursions, with the complimentary “Memphis City Exploration” (three hours) in the morning and a complimentary Memphis Local Loop shuttle running for three hours in the afternoon. The morning excursion included: the Lorraine Motel at the National Civil Rights Museum, where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated; famed Sun Studio, the birthplace of rock and roll; the Peabody Hotel and its iconic ducks; and the Memphis Pyramid, including its huge Bass Pro Shops, dining and a hotel. The afternoon loop features shuttle stops at Beale Street,Edge Motor Museum, and the Memphis Pyramid.

The 7-hour “Graceland Experience” premium excursion to the mansion and much more at Graceland was quite popular (though one of the more expensive premium outings), including a guided tour of the mansion, authentic Memphis cuisine at one of Graceland’s themed restaurants, the Elvis Presley Car Museum, his 1948 Corvair 880 plane, named for his daughter, Lisa Marie, and more. We’d already made the pilgrimage to Graceland, so we opted to stay back in Memphis for the day.

READ MORE ABOUT MEMPHIS: Here's a review of American's “Music Cities Cruise,” where Memphis is a big focus.

Day 11: All Day River Cruising…

And Time To Thoroughly Tour Our Ship

On this first full day of river cruising onboard the Serenade, though we’d obviously gotten to know the ship quite well the last nine days onboard, we decided to thoroughly explore it from bow to stern and Main Deck (Deck 1) to the spacious Sun Deck (Deck 5).

Though all of ACL’s American Riverboats are quite similar, the only other identical ships to American Serenade are American Symphony and American Melody.

Main Deck (1)

The Main Deck is where passengers typically board the ship by gangway at the bow or midship into the vestibule, which includes elevators and the ship’s office. This deck also features six Standard Balcony cabins, including one that’s ADA accessible. The ship’s spacious and open-seating Restaurant and galley are also on the Main Deck.

Deck 2

Along with a small bow terrace for enjoying river cruising, Deck 2 is mostly comprised of 34 Deluxe Balcony cabins, plus two Single Balcony cabins all the way forward. There’s also the quiet Storyteller Lounge midship, with comfortable chairs and tables for reading, gaming, storytelling, and simply enjoying the river (which is also popular across from the lounge, portside, on a small balcony).

Aft, there’s the two-room fitness center that we found empty most of the time (walking and talking your way around the short Sky Walk on the Sun Deck was the fitness pursuit of choice onboard) and a self-serve, complimentary guest laundry.

VIDEO: Below, Cele gives us a brief tour of their spacious Veranda Balcony cabin, #426.

Deck 3

This deck features the typically bustling River Lounge, where most of the daily evening briefings, entertainment, and happy hours are held. The lounge offers hot and cold complimentary non-alcoholic beverages and snacks 24 hours per day.

There are also four more Single Balcony cabins (two midship and two aft), plus 28 Premium Balcony Cabins. The Study lounge midship starboard is here, with another similar small balcony portside like that found on Deck 2 across from the Storyteller Lounge. Both of these small balconies are great places to await disembarkation for excursions or to simply enjoy the river or a good book.

LEARN MORE: Here, Jackie Sheckler Finch does a deep dive on American's solo cabin and cruise offerings.

Deck 4

Even more spacious cabins with upgraded amenities are found on Deck 4, plus one more Single Balcony offering. There are six two-room Grand Suites and one of the couples in one of these was kind enough to give us a look — and we were duly impressed.

There are also 10 Veranda Suites aft, one of which we were lucky enough to score because the ship wasn’t full. The location of our cabin made it almost too easy to head to the popular Sky Lounge, which features an open bar throughout much of the day, plus breakfast and lunch (typically until 5pm) at the Back Porch Café (a second casual dining option with both indoor dining in the lounge and alfresco dining aft). This lounge also offered features hot and cold complimentary non-alcoholic beverages and snacks 24 hours per day (including a “coffee” machine that everyone loved).

VIDEO: Cele gives us a look at the Sky Lounge, below.

Deck 5

Also known as the Sun Deck, you’ll find lots of comfortable chairs and loungers (most in shade), plus many tables and chairs for those who choose to bring food up from the Back Porch Café. We were quite surprised how little use the Sun Deck got for the first half of the cruise, but then it was seemingly discovered — and we had lots of friendly company and camaraderie.

VIDEO: Below, Cele shows us around Serenade's Sun Deck.

Overall, we found the vibe and décor of the ship to be soothing, with muted colors (lots of blues and browns, with simple designs), large and comfortable furnishings in the public spaces and cabins, and lots of windows to let in light, views, and a sense of airiness. We call it “American Cruise Lines Casual” and like it.

As we walked around the American Serenade, we enjoyed chatting with fellow passengers about their impressions. Both first-time and veteran American passengers consistently had positive things to say about the line, the ship, the itinerary, and the food, though several did feel the wine selection was limited and of average quality overall. All cruises host a daily complimentary cocktail party with abundant hors d’oeuvres, but some fellow guests felt the ship’s Sky Lounge bar should be open early-evening, along with the bar in the River Lounge for happy hour (though we didn’t mind the short walk from our Deck Four cabin).

Also on this river cruising day, we were near New Madrid, Missouri, and south of the Mississippi’s confluence with the Ohio River, when the captain announced that we would soon be passing the line’s southbound American Splendor paddlewheeler.

After looking it up in our dog-eared American Cruise Lines catalog of cruises, we learned the American Splendor was sailing on a “Music Cities” itinerary, which typically travels between Nashville and Memphis, exploring the musical heritage of the region. Here's a review of this music cruise by one of QuirkyCruise's Mississippi cruise experts, Jackie Sheckler Finch.

Day 12: Cape Girardeau, MO

After our enjoyable day of river cruising onboard American Serenade, we were ready for another day in a Mississippi River port town. Cape Girardeau ended up being one of our less-favorite stops, which was likely a combination of a experiencing another hot and humid late-June day and maybe a bit of museum overload.

Cruising in mid-America this time of year can definitely be hot, with mid-90s the norm. We tried to get out early in the morning, when exploring on our own, and many other passengers did as well, but the heat didn’t seem to slow excursions participation or independent exploration.

Cape Girardeau heat notwithstanding, several passengers reported that the three-hour Cape County Alpacas excursion, offered in the morning and again in the afternoon, was quite interesting. Along with a guided tour and the opportunity to feed the friendly alpacas, shopping was quite popular, as was evidenced by the pretty shawls and more that appeared on female passengers that evening.

Folks enjoyed the colorful murals painted on its floodwall featuring Cape Girardeau and Southeast Missouri history, heritage, people, and landmarks, plus the Missouri Wall of Fame. Though the murals are easy to view on your own, there was also a one-hour Mural Walk guided excursion offered in the morning and again in the afternoon, which several passengers told us was quite insightful.

The complimentary Cape Girardeau Local Loop runs for three hours in the morning and again in the afternoon. Stops including the town’s shopping district, historic Glenn House,Crisp Museum,Cape Girardeau Heritage Museum, and Red House Interpretive Center, which highlights the legacy of French-Canadian pioneer Louis Lorimier as the founder of the community, as well as the historic Cape Girardeau visit of explorers Meriwether Lewis and William Clark in 1803. Though it was interesting, this last museum (and the sun) may have contributed to our museum overload (from which we quickly recovered as we headed north on the river).

Day 13 (morning and afternoon): River Cruising

Before arriving in St. Louis early-evening, we enjoyed another day of river cruising. After sleeping in, we enjoyed a late breakfast and spent most of the day on our balcony or in the Sky Lounge, reading more Mark Twain (including our old friends Tom, Huckleberry, and so much more) and two Twain biographies:

• One by Ron Powers, called “Mark Twain: A Life”
• And another by Ron Chernow

Of course, our pre-cruise and onboard reading (or re-reading) had included classic Twain classics like The Adventures of Tom Sawyer (1876) and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn (1885), but we also dug deeper to explore (or re-explore) other Twain tomes, including, Life on the Mississippi. This book turned out to include earlier writing from Twain detailing his time has a riverboat pilot, as well as a memoir about a Mississippi River cruise he took 20 years later, sailing from St. Louis to New Orleans and the all the way back up the river to St. Paul, Minnesota, which is about an hour north of Red Wing, Minnesota, the Serenade’s final stop.

In Twain’s Life on the Mississippi, one of our favorite quotes remains, “Good books, good friends, and a sleepy conscience this is the ideal life.”

This is especially true on a small ship.

Before, during, and after the cruise, we read many other excellent Mississippi River books, including:

• The Great River: The Making and the Unmaking of the Mississippi, by Boyce Upholt
• Mississippi Solo: A Memoir, by Eddy L. Harris
• Rinker Buck’s Life on the Mississippi.: An Epic Adventure

All are highly recommended, whether one is cruising the entire Mississippi, sailing a section of it, or just armchair cruising (one of our favorite pastimes when we’re not on a small ship).

Though every day featured a schedule filled with activities, games, lectures, entertainment, and more, it was especially the case for river cruising days. We enjoyed the lectures from well-prepared onboard historian, Dallas Shipp, every day, where he delved more deeply into a specific Mississippi River topic (often historical in nature), rather than necessarily focusing on the next port (though his port talks always provided great background).

Shipp’s wide-ranging topics included: controversial Louisiana governor and senator, Huey P. Long; the history of Mississippi riverboating (including licensed steamboat pilot Mark Twain); engineering projects along the river; the Great Flood of 1927; St. Louis brewer, Adolphus Busch; Old South aristocrats; Prohibition; classic southern-style duels; and more.

A schoolteacher, Dallas was quite popular with his young-at-heart attentive passenger-students. Our next-door neighbors on the ship, Ruth and Bob Gallagher from just outside Albany, New York, turned out to be fellow fans of Shipp, with Ruth saying, “Having Dallas provide history presentations was a bonus.”

His talks were very good.” We stayed in touch with the Gallaghers after our cruise and they had become, in their words, American Cruise Lines “junkies.” They were on the line’s round-trip St. Petersburg sailing to Key West and back (“Florida Gulf Coast & Keys”) when we last spoke and they already had two more American cruises booked and another two planned.

Though they had cruised on several European rivers, this was the friendly couple’s first cruise in the U.S. They also praised the nightly excursions previews and entertainment, with Bob adding, “We can’t think of anything that could be improved. American Cruise Lines in our opinion has cruising perfected.”

Days 13 (evening) & 14: St. Louis, MO

We arrived in St. Louis a couple of hours ahead of our scheduled 5:30pm arrival, docking in the shadow of the famed Gateway Arch. This also made for a leisurely early-evening stroll to bustling Busch Stadium for a classic Midwest Major League Baseball showdown between the beloved Cardinals and the Chicago Cubs.

This was our second visit to the ballpark and we arrived early for a beer (Budweiser, of course) outside the stadium at popular Paddy O’s, before heading inside to tour the stadium before the first pitch. The Cubs won 8-0, but the most memorable moment of the game was the hefty Triple Play BBQ Party Box “platter” from Broadway BBQ, which included a half-pound each of classic shredded pork ‘cue, smoked brisket, and tasty smoked turkey, St. Louis-style, plus two pieces of cornbread and a serving of potato salad. It could have fed four and was a ballpark bargain just short of 25 bucks.

The next day, a variety of excursions awaited us. The complimentary “St. Louis Art Museum Exploration” lasted three hours and featured a number of museum stops, including downtown’s unique Citygarden, which offers three acres of modern and contemporary sculptures, reflecting pools, a popular spray plaza for hot kids and kids and heart, and a café.

The most popular excursion by far was the three-hour “St. Louis Gateway Arch Experience,” which was offered in the morning and again in the afternoon. The iconic Gateway Arch is situated in sprawling Gateway Arch National Park. The excursion included lots of time in the excellent museum, the “Monument to a Dream” movie, a huge gift shop, a restaurant with St. Louis specialties, and a tram ride to the top, including a stop for classic views and pictures. The Old Courthouse and its museum, which had recently reopened, is also part of the national park.

For beer lovers, the 2.5-hour “Budweiser Brewery Experience” was hard to resist. It provided an in-depth look at the brewing legacy of Anheuser-Bush, including the Brewhouse, their Beechwood Aging Cellars, the Bevo Packaging facility, the Clydesdales stables, where the famous horses are housed, and — of course — a beer to enjoy at the end of the experience.

There was also a three-hour “Discover St. Louis” excursion in the morning, which allowed many passengers to see more of St. Louis, return to the ship for lunch, and then head out on the afternoon “St. Louis Gateway Arch Experience.” We spoke with several passengers who did this, with the morning excursion including downtown St. Louis and the riverfront, aforementioned Citygarden, the historic neighborhoods of Soulard and Lafayette Square, a driving tour of Forest Park, and the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis, which is adjacent to Gateway Arch National Park.

Day 15: River Cruising

An early-morning departure from St. Louis quickly led to our first passage through an Upper Mississippi lock, marking the first of more than two dozen locks before reaching Red Wing and the end of our journey below the Twin Cities of Minneapolis and St. Paul. Of course, we’d passed through many other locks onboard small and large ships — and they’re still interesting, most of the time.

This day on the river generally marked the two-thirds mark for this cruise, which is generally the time we start thinking about booking our next cruise, if we hadn’t already done so. Ironically, this was the day the ship’s staff provided a great overview of the history of American Cruise Lines, its varied ships, and their wide-ranging itineraries, providing a perfect time for us to explore their offerings and our dog-eared catalog. This popular and packed presentation was very informational and informative, as many passengers do book future cruises while on board.

One thing we immediately noticed is that American Cruise Lines has a lot of Mississippi River cruises; 17 different itineraries in fact, including several week-long sailings and cruises exploring tributaries like the Ohio, Tennessee, Cumberland, and Arkansas Rivers. We would gladly choose many of these other itineraries, even if it meant returning to some of the same ports along our Complete Mississippi River cruise (plus lots of new ones for us).

RELATED: Here's a look at American's 17 Mississippi River cruise itinerary options.

Day 16: Hannibal, MO

For many passengers, our stop in Hannibal was one of their primary reasons for booking the cruise. Mark Twain would be proud.

There were eight excursions offered in Hannibal, more than any other port on our itinerary. The complimentary “Hannibal Local Loop” ran for two-and-a-quarter hours in the morning and again for three hours in the afternoon. Stops included the excellent Mark Twain Boyhood Home & Museum (see more below); Laura Hawkins House (Laura Hawkins was the real-life inspiration for Becky Thatcher in Twain’s books) and LaBinnah Bistro (including a sweet and savory food sample and wine tasting); and Hannibal’s quaint downtown shopping district.

We went to Mark Twain's Boyhood Home & Museum on our own (as with most places of interest on the cruise, our lanyard got us complimentary admission).

This sprawling complex brought the books we read to life, including: a small Interpretive Center (the best place to start); the Huckleberry Finn House (more of a cabin); Twain’s Boyhood Home (including a famed white fence); the Becky Thatcher House; the JM Clemens Justice of Peace Office (Mark Twain was born Samuel Clemens and this was his father’s office); Grant’s Drug Store (the Clemens family once lived above it); and the sprawling Museum Gallery (including 15 original Norman Rockwell paintings and much more). The complex also features three gift shops.

Other Twain-oriented excursions during our day-long stop included: a one-and-a-half-hour Stroll with Mark Twain, which was sold out and got rave reviews. The Twain reenactor, Richard Garey, came onboard that night to perform his acclaimed stage show. There was also a three-hour Mark Twain Cave Exploration and Cave Hollow Winery, highlighting a labyrinth cave system where Twain played as a child and was featured in The Adventures of Huck Finn (plus a local wine flight or wine slushy). In the afternoon, we embarked on a premium one-and-three-quarter-hour Mark Twain Riverboat Cruise, where we enjoyed the captain’s narrative, but not the large crowds of schoolkids and summer vacationers also onboard.

That evening, we were treated to Richard Garey’s “Mark Twain Himself” performance. Garey stays completely in character and uses Twain words from books, stories, letters, and essays. We spoke with Garey before his well-received performance and learned he had earned a master’s degree in English from Cele’s alma mater, Virginia’s James Madison University. He also has authored an excellent book called Hannibal at the Door, with illustrations by his wife, Pat Garey, a distinguished watercolor artist. Garey works closely with American Cruise Lines whenever one of their ships is in Hannibal.

Other Hannibal highlights we found on our own included: picture-perfect colorful murals throughout town; the Hannibal History Museum (donations welcome); Jim’s Journey: The Huck Finn Freedom Center (small admission fee), which pays homage to Twain’s character, Jim, and the character’s prototype, Daniel Quarles; the Molly Brown Birthplace & Museum (small admission fee), highlighting the Titanic’s “Unsinkable Molly Brown” (a Molly Brown reenactor also came onboard to perform); and Sodalis Nature Preserve, where we hiked in the shade up to old limestone mines that were emitting refreshing cool breezes from underground.

Day 17: River Cruising…

Time to Talk Entertainment & Food

With many days of meals and entertainment under our belts, we had experienced a nice overview of the ship’s offerings in these two important categories. And, we can categorically say that the ship shined on both fronts.

Entertainment Overview

Both the onboard entertainment and varied local entertainers that the line brought onboard to perform specifically for us were quite good. First and foremost, and with us the entire cruise, were Norman Bergen and Michaelyn Oby, both enthusiastic American Cruise Lines veterans. Bergen is a well-versed and -travelled pianist and songwriter with decades of lyrical tunes and stories to share, while Oby is a soulful wide-ranging vocalist.

Quite simply, we enjoyed anything they played, including many ‘themed’ evenings of entertainment (think New Orleans jazz, Elvis in Memphis, St. Louis blues, and more). When not performing they were both a pleasure to have onboard and ashore.

Entertainment brought onboard by American Cruise Lines is always top-notch, and that was the case on this sailing. From Cajun duos and bluegrass to world-class ‘Mark Twain’ and ‘Unsinkable Molly Brown’ one-person shows, the onboard local and regional entertainment that focused on Mississippi river music and culture was definitely a highlight for us and many other passengers.

The Food Scene Aboard Serenade

Dining was also a highlight for us and others. There is just one full-service restaurant onboard offering all three meals; a more casual option, the Back Porch Café, operates with limited hours and menu.

Along with tasty and occasionally creative American standards that many passengers expect (and like all American Cruise Lines cruises), the meals in the restaurant focussed heavily on local and regional fare, which featured much more than Mississippi River catfish on the platter (though that was quite tasty when offered).

We especially enjoyed breakfasts, lunches, and dinners that highlighted the area where we were docked or sailing past. Among dozens of examples from our cruise, particularly tasty breakfast highlights included: crawfish hash eggs Benedict with cheesy grits and Cajun hollandaise; local smoked trout; sweet potato pancakes; and a delicious St. Louis-style barbecue brisket egg skillet, with potatoes, sweet corn, and vine-ripened salsa.

Come casual lunchtime (always before or after excursions), locally-inspired options included: roasted red fish with shrimp and andouille étouffée; classic southern jambalaya; cornmeal-crusted Breaux Bridge blue catfish; Nashville hot chicken sliders; the popular “ACL Tuna Melt,” with albacore tuna; and, the chef’s egg fu young-like shrimp St. Paul sandwich, which turned out to be a St. Louis-area specialty.

At somewhat more formal dinner (we call it “supper” in the South), the local focus continued, with: New Orleans Charles Street creole pasta; Gulf Coast blue crab cakes; seared Gulf sea bass with sautéed crawfish; seared domestic Patuxent Farms lamp chops; Stockyard Farms Duroc pork chops, with lusciously creamy Boursin-whipped potatoes; pan-seared line-caught amberjack; vegetarian southern mac n’ cheese with barbeque tofu; and chicken and wild rice soup as a supper appetizer near the end of our cruise (turns out wild rice is very popular in Minnesota).

Early in the cruise, one of the servers told us that we could order two half-portions of entrées, which we did several times when more than one thing on the menu interested us. For all three meals, simple and creative vegetarian options are available, and the chef and his staff are great about accommodating any dietary restrictions.

We’re not huge dessert eaters on land or water, but the desserts got rave reviews and we did try a few we loved, including: bourbon pecan pie; turtle pie; lemon cheese cake; Bananas Foster bread pudding; chocolate peanut butter pie; sweet potato pie; and American’s varied iced cream offerings, which were perfect mid-summer treats on the Mississippi.

Complimentary beer and wine were abundant at lunch and dinner. The beer choices were international, national, and regional (including several popular offerings from Louisiana-based Abita Brewing Company). The wine choices were modest: varied Robert Mondavi wines; Prophecy’s white blend; Chateau St. Michelle (we love their red blend); and Gnarly Head’s old vine Lodi zinfandel (perfect when paired with the chef’s steaks and chops). We agreed with other passengers that the wine selections could have been more numerous, especially on a longer cruise.

The aforementioned Back Porch Café was popular for food, beverages, and conversation from morning to later afernoon. After meeting any early-morning caffeine and nosh needs with a continental buffet, a rotating breakfast sandwich or from-scratch oatmeal was typically offered from early- to mid-morning, with lunch normally starting at 11am and being offered until 5pm (we noticed several passengers enjoying an early dinner there). The Back Porch Café’s menu for both breakfast and lunch is simple, but everything is freshly prepared and tasty, with options like: made-to-order hamburgers, hot dogs, and a popular chicken Caesar salad. There’s comfortable seating inside and also out on the back deck, as well as upstairs on Deck 5.

We also enjoyed several well-attended and tasty cooking demonstrations from the chef and pastry chef while river cruising, with samples afterwards (natch!). We learned how to make shrimp and crawfish étouffée, including the use of the “holy trinity” in Cajun and Creole cooking (onions, celery, and bell peppers). It smelled (and tasted) great. Another demo by the ship’s perky pastry chef brought yummy peanut butter balls, which we also enjoyed with our fellow foodie passengers.

Overall, we found dining service quite friendly and never lacking for effort. Generally, the waitstaff that were new to the line and to cruise ship work were still getting their sea legs when it came to efficiency, but that quickly improved as our days on the Mississippi passed. Along with other passengers, we found this to be true with cabin service as well: friendly and aiming to please whenever possible, but overall, not as polished as that found on larger foreign-flagged and -staffed lines.

Day 18: Muscatine, IA

Although we’d not heard of Muscatine, Iowa, we won’t forget our morning in this classic Mississippi River small town. Highlights here have to include Muscatine’s very walkable downtown and the fascinating National Pearl Button Museum, which highlights the unique history of pearl button manufacturing in Muscatine for decades until plastic buttons came along.

Pearl buttons were actually made from the shells of local mussels in the early-1900s and the city averaged about 1.5 billion mother-of-pearl buttons produced annually! Upstairs in the National Pearl Button Museum, there’s Muscatine’s History & Industry Center, which highlights several other “Made in Muscatine” industries beyond billions of buttons.

The included Muscatine Local Loop ran for three-and-a-half hours and included stops at the aforementioned Pearl Button Museum, the Muscatine Environmental Learning Center, with two freshwater aquariums, trails, and many natural history displays, and the two-story Muscatine Art Center, located in a 1908 home, where we also enjoyed their peaceful Japanese garden.

There was also a nearly two-hour excursion called the Sustainability Experience at Stanley Center for Peace and Security, which featured the Center’s “Living Building,” a unique water containment system, a partnership with a local food pantry (with participants enjoying local vegetables), and much more about place, water, energy, materials, equity, beauty, health, and happiness.

Other excursion options included a five-hour 18-hole golf outing at historic Geneva Golf and Country Club, the only golf outing offered on this itinerary, and a one-and-three-quarter-hour trip to Pine Creek Grist Mill.

We left Muscatine mid-day and enjoyed a half-day and overnight of river cruising, before arriving in Dubuque, Iowa, the following morning.

Day 19: Dubuque, IA

We really enjoyed our morning in Dubuque, where it was a short stroll to the city’s main draw, the Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium. It’s a sprawling “campus,” next to where the ship docks, that includes: lots of riverways history (not just the Mississippi River); the National Rivers Hall of Fame; various touch tanks; multiple aquariums; a conservation lab; red-tailed hawk and bald eagle aviaries; a blacksmith shop; a huge dredge boat; a boat shop; wetlands; and so much more. One could easily spend a full day here.

The complimentary Dubuque Local Loop ran all morning and included stops at the historic St. Luke’s United Methodist Church and its stunning stained glass windows, the Fenelon Place Elevator (a steep cable car funicular elevator that leads to great views), and historic Hotel Julien Dubuque, before ending back at the Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium and the American Serenade. There was a half-hour Dubuque River Walk offered that was also complimentary.

Many passengers opted for the four-hour “Field of Dreams Experience” (a bargain at $50/person in 2025). The Field of Dreams Movie Site for the famed “Field of Dreams” feature film starring Kevin Costner and James Earl Jones is located 25 miles west of Dubuque, in the rolling hills of Dyersville, Iowa. Highlights of any visit have to include the baseball diamond, the cornfields, ghost players, the farmhouse, and The Stretch Concession stand, featuring ballpark grub, of course. A few popular excursions, like this one, did sell out, but just a few on this long cruise. We recommend booking some excursions in advance via the American website, if they’re particularly of interest.

Both the Field of Dreams Movie Site outing and the Mississippi River Museum & Aquarium were the main topics of conversation at lunch, once underway to the next port, Winona, Minnesota, where we would arrive after an afternoon, overnight, and morning of river cruising.

In the afternoon, we were treated to a one-hour musical performance by one of the ship’s multi-talented chefs, including great guitar playing, vocals, and a variety of tunes that ranged from country and bluegrass to the blues and more. ]

Day 20, Winona, MN

Unfortunately, we were unable to dock in Winona due to high water. The captain made the call as we sailed by to head on to our next (and final) port of call, Red Wing, Minnesota. Although this is disappointing whenever it happens, we were impressed with how the staff and crew handled the change.

When we return to Winona (and we will), our plans will include: the Minnesota Marine Art Museum, which features a wide variety of art inspired by water from around the world; Watkins Museum & Store, with 150-plus years of store memorabilia and modern-day shopping; the Basilica of St. Stanislaus Kostka; the Kashubian Cultural Institute & Polish Museum;Pickwick Mill (the first commercial flour mill West of the Mississippi River that operated around-the-clock and produced 100 barrels of flour a day for the Union Army during the Civil War); beloved (since 1924) Bloedow Bakery for sweet treats; and Boat House Restaurant, home of “Walleye Wednesday” and varied walleye fish preparations, including panko beer battered, seared, blackened, and offered in tacos.

Day 21: River Cruising

This day was supposed to be meant for a final day of river cruising, but missing Winona (we’ll be back!) meant we arrived in Red Wing on Day 21, giving us a bit of a head start on Red Wing exploration on our own, before overnighting at their downtown dock for a surprise extra night.

Days 22 & 23: Red Wing, MN

We awoke in Red Wing on July 3rd for the first of two full days there, meaning we’d be in Red Wing for Independence Day — and this slice of Midwest Americana didn’t disappoint.

There were actually three complimentary excursions offered in Red Wing. The “Red Wing Local Loop” featured four stops including: Red Wing Marine Museum, which explores the history of Red Wing Motor Company and their Thorobred engines and much more; Goodhue County History Center; the creative arts center at historic Red Wing Depot; and, of course, the Red Wing Shoesflagship store and museum, including the world’s largest boot, towering more than 20 feet (you don’t have to be a Red Wing work boots fan to enjoy this stop).

The morning’s two-and-a-half hour “Red Wing City Exploration” excursion featured a local guide and includes viewing Victorian homes, the historic St. James Hotel, the Pottery Museum of Red Wing, and the Sheldon Theatre. It provided a nice overview of Red Wing proper for many passengers.

The afternoon’s “National Eagle Center Experience” was complimentary as well. It was three-and-a-half hours and received rave reviews from everyone we chatted with that evening (all of whom were Eagle Society members with lots of stars on their lanyard’s ID, indicating how many American cruises they had been on thus far). The Center offers up-close viewing of non-releasable bald eagles and covers the ecology, biology, and natural history of these magnificent creatures.

The “final” excursion offering was the four-hour “St. Paul Discovery.” St. Paul is about one hour from where the ship docks in Red Wing (as is Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport), where we would fly out of the next morning. Highlights of this excursion included the 1905 Minnesota State Capitol, some of the Midwest’s last remaining Victorian Romanesque blocks, and a brief stop at Minnehaha Falls.

The next morning meant a complimentary airport transfer and saying goodbye to the great crew, including our hardworking motorcoach drivers, but we were lucky enough that American Cruise Lines had booked a direct flight for us back to Savannah, Georgia, just 45 minutes from our Beaufort, South Carolina, home. (By the way, Beaufort is also an American Cruise Lines port of call on the “Southeast Sea Islands” itinerary sailing between Amelia Island, Florida, and Charleston, South Carolina, which we’re anxious to try in our own Lowcountry backyard someday.)

Our Parting Words …

For fans of American’s ships and offerings, it’s hard to top their “Complete Mississippi River Cruise.” We found the number of varied Mississippi River ports and the time spent in them was quite appealing, as were the numerous excursions. And, when onboard, the regionally-specific food, entertainment, and enrichment were excellent. Plus, for fans of Mark Twain like us, the immersion in Twain’s river and region were highlights.

Interested In A Complete Mississippi Cruise?

All-inclusive fares for the 22-night “Complete Mississippi River Cruise” start at $14,890 per person.

Having cruised American often, we’ve found it is relatively common for passengers who are pleased with certain staff members and service to tip them in cash separately. Tips for good tour guides ashore are also common among some American passengers.

 

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