Canal du Midi Cruise
By Cynthia Heininger & Jim Feeney.
“Of all the methods of traveling I have ever tried this is the pleasantest.” — Thomas Jefferson to William Short, May 21, 1787, on the Canal du Midi
Spot on, Mr. Jefferson.
And if you fancy being Mr. Jefferson or his aristocratic kind, cruising languidly on an elegant historic barge, the Savannah Barge on the Canal du Midi in France’s Languedoc region is for you.
The 6-pax Savannah barge. * Photo: Savannah Barge
The Savannah Barge is a luxurious hotel barge (30m X 5m), built in 1936 as a cargo barge specifically for the Canal du Midi to transport liquids (fuel, alcohol and wines, at different stages of its career).
In the 1990s, the owner of L’Occitane en Provence renovated the vessel as a showroom for the company’s famed cosmetic line. It was converted to a hotel barge in the early 2000s.
The boat was in poor condition when today’s owner-captain, Adrien Bramoullé, purchased it, but he refurbished it completely in 2014, transforming it into a sophisticated floating hotel with a maximum capacity of seven passengers in three double cabins and one single.
Savannah normally cruises the Canal du Midi between Bram and La Redorte, or the reverse, on a six-night itinerary. We joined old friends, forming a roster of three couples.
On the first day of our Canal du Midi cruise, in June 2022, Captain Adrien picked us up at our hotel in Narbonne in a comfortable Mercedes SUV.
From that moment on, we were Jefferson and party, befitting time spent on a canal originally named Le Canal Royal de Languedoc, but of course without the subservience and condescension that characterized the 18th century.
(The canal’s name was changed to the Canal du Midi following the French revolution. In 1996, it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site.)
Canal du Midi map. * Image: Cynthia Heininger
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On Board the Savannah Barge
An elegant barge, is that an oxymoron?
Oh, it is elegant…the cabins all have ensuite bathrooms with colorful tiles. And the beds are European king (slightly longer and narrower than US beds), outfitted with premium linens.
The original brass portholes can be opened for fresh air, but the cabins and public rooms are equipped with central air conditioning and heating.
The elegant interior lounge of Savannah Barge. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Comfy Cabins on our Canal du Midi Cruise
The largest cabin (14 m2) is accessed through a sliding roof panel on the upper deck; the others (two doubles, 12 m2, and the smaller single, 5-1/2 m2.) are accessed through the beautiful lounge.
One of the 3 cabins aboard Savannah Barge. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
One of the lovely tiled en-suite cabin bathrooms. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
(Note: There are stairs, and a ramp with railings to access the barge, so it’s not handicapped accessible.)
What’s Included on the Savannah Barge?
Included are all meals and an open bar, well stocked with any special requests you may make.
“Meals” sounds so mundane — sumptuous feasts are more like it, whether it was breakfast, lunch or dinner.
All food is prepared on board by a private chef in a compact and efficient galley.
Every time we sat down, there were new place settings — 12 different sets of table linens are kept on board.
Lovely table settings & mood. * Photo: Savannah Barge
Each meal was exquisite, and dinners included entrée (appetizer), le plat principal (main course), cheese course, and dessert.
What Chef Valerie can do with vegetables – magic!
Chef Valerie introducing lunch. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
The Languedoc is the largest wine producing region in France, so there was no shortage of local wines to try.
All courses were accompanied by local wines, including some from Chef Valerie’s husband’s vineyard.
None of us on board was a wine connoisseur, so we can’t talk about the depth of flavor, the balance, or the finish of the wines.
Capt. Adrien pouring wine, which is included in the fare. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
However, we can report that the wines flowed freely, and we enjoyed them all.
The cheese course was a nightly surprise — would it be a Pavé de Chirac, or a Pélardon des Corbières, or a Cathare, or the delightfully named Sein de Nounou — aka Nanny’s breast, a goat cheese with an ash rind.
We were definitely a cheese-loving group.
Delicious! * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Pork tenderloin with mushrooms. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Mouth-watering molten chocolate cake. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Breakfast, usually 9:00 a.m. or 8:00 a.m. if required by a land tour schedule, is served in the inside dining room; lunch and dinner are on deck, weather permitting, otherwise in the dining room.
The indoor dining area. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Snacks and beverages are available self-serve around the clock, with service as desired during the day and evening.
What did we do on board our Canal du Midi cruise when we weren’t eating? WAS there a time we weren’t eating? Yes, there was.
Every day, the barge would sail for three to four hours, either in the morning or afternoon.
Enjoying sailing time aboard Savannah Barge. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
The locks on the canal are open from 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and so travel is always within those hours.
Enjoying the locks was a highlight of our time on board.
Lots of Locks on a Canal du Midi Cruise
Before we left, someone asked us if we’d actually go through any locks.
No worries — we went through a total of 23 locks!
Approaching one of the many locks along the way. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
One of the 23 locks passed through during the week. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
And another interesting lock. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
We all brought plenty of books and sketching supplies, and Scrabble too, to keep us occupied while we sailed.
In reality, we hardly made a dent in the books we thought we’d read.
Not much time for reading! * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Watching the world go by from the deck was all the entertainment we needed on our Canal du Midi cruise.
Scenic views at every turn. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
There was hardly a towpath bicyclist who didn’t greet us with a cheerful “Bonjour!” as we sailed along.
Captain Adrien lets passengers hang out in the wheelhouse when there are no locks to navigate.
You’ll want to take a peek down where the original 1936 engine, in mint condition, keeps things chugging along.
And if all the relaxing gets too much for you, you can try out the hot tub on deck.
Life is good! * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
There are also bicycles available on request, so you can cruise alongside the barge on the towpath or take a ride when the barge is docked for the evening.
Cycling along the tow path. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Day Trips on Shore
There were daily shore excursions that took us to historic cities, wine tastings, markets, cathedrals and châteaux.
We visited Carcassonne, Minerve, Mirepoix and Montolieu, and had a private tour of the 17th-century Château de Pennautier vineyard.
Our confidence level for walking on cobblestones improved every day (pack a good pair of walking shoes).
Minerve’s charming cobblestoned streets. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
The medieval fortified city of Carcassonne. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
The picturesque medieval village of Minerve. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Marvelous Markets on a Canal du Midi Cruise
It was marvelous to visit the Monday market in Mirepoix and help the captain shop for whatever Chef Valerie needed for the evening’s repast.
Look at those olives! Heaven!
An olive fest! * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Cheese cheese cheese. Take your pick! * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
These are all magnificent places to visit and learn about the history of the region. Probably similar itineraries are offered on other Canal du Midi tours.
Road Rally on our Canal du Midi Cruise
But Savannah also includes an additional special adventure! ROAD RALLY! Feast your eyes on these beautiful vintage Citroen 2CV (Deux Chevaux).
We didn’t just sit and pose in these cars — noooo! We hit the road, one couple in each of the three colorful cars.
A rainbow of vintage Citroen 2CVs. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
After brief instructions (e.g. “Don’t sit on the fender or you’ll dent it.”) and some practice time, we headed for the road for a round-trip drive of a little over an hour.
The sun was shining, the Citroens’ tops were pulled back and the wind was whipping through our hair! Well, maybe not exactly whipping.
These cars are not fast — “zero to sixty in about an hour” not fast.
The shift is on the dash (!), and the unique pattern takes some getting used to. It helps to have a co-pilot saying “NOW 3rd!”
It also helps if you have legs long enough to reach the clutch, as the seat doesn’t adjust.
Cynthia in an orange vintage Citroen 2CV. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
What a terrific parade we were! Everyone smiled as we passed. We just grinned the rest of the day.
Evening Song
Back on board that night, another treat — wonderful musicians entertained us before and after dinner.
Tunes from Edith Piaf, to Pink Martini (“Je ne veux pas travailler”), to a rousing version of “Les Champs Élysées” (boosted by a chorus of Chef Valerie and host Nora), it was perfectly charming.
Live music on board. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
The Savannah Barge Team
As noted, three on board plus a deck hand who assists with locks, docking and moving the land transport (the captain does all the driving when his clients are in the vehicle).
French-born Capt. Adrien, who emigrated with his parents as a child to South Africa, has had multiple careers — as a large-animal research veterinarian based in S. Africa; as a corporate executive based in France; and as a hotelier, his chosen post-retirement vocation (he retired from the corporate world at age 45).
He owns and captains the Savannah; he also owns the Amour, a honeymoon barge for which he employs a captain; and he owns and operates a safari lodge in South Africa (the Canal du Midi closes mid-winter, and of course winter in France is summer in S. Africa).
Capt. Adrien speaks fluent English (and several other languages), and is a skilled raconteur, always ready with a colorful anecdote. He is extremely personable and welcoming, knowledgeable and engaging. But he’s never intrusive.
Capt. Adrien at the wheel. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Chef Valerie Egea is a culinary master versed in classic and contemporary French cuisine. All the food on our Canal du Midi cruise was superb and the presentation magazine photo ready.
She has been with the Savannah for several years and spends November-March in South Africa, preparing equally exquisite meals for guests at the Savannah safari lodge.
Chef Valerie was particularly attentive to our dietary needs and allergies.
The third team member is at once a gracious hostess, skilled deck hand, housekeeper, dining room server. During our trip this role was filled by the versatile and personable Nora.
RELATED: Is a barge cruise for you? Check out our Barge Cruise Tips here.
Why Choose Barge Savannah?
1.Day trips are customizable
Excursions were flexible according to what we as a group wanted to do.
2.The captain is the owner
He has the freedom and flexibility to tailor the cruise as he, and his clients, like.
There’s no owner in Dubai or bureaucrat in Paris telling him what he can and can’t do. When we loved the rosé from one of the vineyards, he bought two bottles to have with dinner that evening.
Like to try a particular cheese? He or Chef Valerie will buy it at the market.
3.French owned & French staff
Many boats on French waters make a pretense of being French, but are registered in other countries and absentee owned, or part of an international corporate fleet.
As our French friend in Lyon said when we were surveying the options, “Why would you want to be in France on an English barge?”
4.Price & size
With six guests, we each paid approximately $4,900 per person (May 2022).
A suggested crew tip of 5-10% of the total price is presented to the captain at the end of the cruise.
Expensive, yes. But join with friends, and the boat is yours for less per couple than many a far more mundane cruise or tour with people you don’t know.
5.It’s truly inclusive
We had no cruise expenses save for personal purchases such as gifts and souvenirs.
Our post-cruise travel meant an earlier than normal departure from the barge, and Chef Valerie made us delicious take-away sandwiches for our Narbonne-Lyon train ride.
A Few Canal du Midi Cruise Caveats
Although the day trips can be customized, there is a fair amount of walking required to enjoy the picturesque villages on the itinerary.
If you are hoping to stay connected with the “real world”, you might want to consider investing in a hotspot as Wi-Fi on board is spotty at best. This was only an issue when we tried to book train tickets in advance — otherwise, we didn’t miss the connectivity.
I write to you…from the canal of Languedoc, on which I am at present sailing, as I have been for a week past, cloudless skies above, limpid waters below, and on each hand a row of nightingales in full chorus.” — Thomas Jefferson to his daughter, May 21, 1787, On the Canal du Midi.
We highly recommend you make plans to enjoy the cloudless skies and the limpid waters of the Canal du Midi on the Savannah Barge soon!
Ahhhh, the beauty & serenity of a Canal du Midi cruise aboard Savannah Barge. * Photo: Cynthia Heininger
Interested in this Canal du Midi cruise aboard the Savannah Barge?
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HEIDI SARNA
