The Sea Of Cortez Is A Natural Wonderland

Sea Of Cortez Small-Ship Cruising

By Charles Doherty.

Our dive boat had been circling awhile, trying to spot whale sharks. Suddenly, we had to quickly assemble on the stern platform and get ready to make our plunge. Our guide Marika signaled “let’s go” and—d’oh!—my snorkel had dislodged from its mask, and I was left behind. After I fixed my gear and looked up, Marika was motioning the group back towards the boat.

WOW, check out this whale shark. * Photo: UnCruise Adventures

I jumped in and found myself face-to-face with the largest species of fish in the world, frozen by the whale shark’s grim, five-foot-wide, horizontal slash of a mouth. Slowly it turned, a limpid eye seeming to size me up in passing; next, its huge vertical gill flaps fluttered by as if in a light breeze. Then I remembered the danger posed by the 10-ton creature’s tail, and I frantically started swimming backwards.

Dubbed whale shark in part because, like a whale, it’s a filter feeder with a diet of plankton and small aquatic life, it’s not a man-eater. But being hit by even a casual flip of the 30-foot fish’s muscular tree-trunk of a tail can inflict damage. The instant it passed, though, I was furiously swimming to catch up for another look.

The Sea of Cortez, The World’s Aquarium

This was the last—and most memorable—dive on our weeklong UnCruise Adventures voyage in the Sea Of Cortez, the slender body of water between the Baja California peninsula and Mexico’s mainland that famous marine explorer Jacques Cousteau called the “world’s aquarium.”

Indeed, on earlier snorkeling excursions in this biologically diverse sea environment, we’d spotted our first bullseye electric ray amid the countless colorful reef fish. And none of us will ever forget the up-close encounter of diving with sea lions.

Our adventures ashore, from climbing rock-strewn arroyos to trekking among desert scrub, revealed the unique flora and fauna (especially the birds) found here in the “Galapagos of North America” (Cousteau again).

Toss in kayaking alongside red-rock cliffs, paddleboarding on glassy bays, and several beach parties—plus a cozy and convivial shipboard ambiance—and we had a full serving of Baja’s bountiful pleasures.

The weeklong itinerary. * Credit: UnCruise Adventures

In fact, “Baja’s Bounty” is the name of UnCruise’s series of Sea Of Cortez sailings offered on the 84-passenger, U.S.-registered Safari Endeavour.

Guests flew in to the Los Cabos International Airport for a short ride to the Barcelo Grand Faro Los Cabos Hotel, where UnCruise passengers received a guest-pass to enjoy the all-inclusive resort’s food, beverages, and facilities—including multiple pools and a beautiful beach. In late afternoon, passengers gathered together for a motorcoach transfer through the scenic Baja countryside to the pretty port town of La Paz.

The 84-passenger Safari Endeavour was home for a weeklong adventure in the Sea Of Cortez, a UNESCO World Heritage Site & Biosphere Reserve. * Photo: UnCruise Adventures

The 84-pax Safari Endeavour

Though the largest ship in the UnCruise fleet, the 232-foot Safari Endeavour was just four decks high; still she dwarfed the fishing vessels docked next to her at the La Paz pier.

Captain Barrett and his all-American crew welcomed us, but we were most eager to see chef Mike and his team (unavoidable congestion en route had delayed our arrival past dinnertime). We were soon ushered into the bright, inviting dining room for the first of many delicious meals.

Dining on the Safari Endeavour

Located amidships on lowest Main Deck, the restaurant accommodated all passengers at tables seating six in upholstered chairs. Light woodwork, muted carpets and wall coverings, and large picture-windows lining both sides brightened the dining room.

Domed light fixtures were recessed into wood-trimmed ceiling coves that added to the spacious feel. Seating was open, but dining times were set (with a bit of flexibility in the mornings). Breakfasts and lunches featured buffets along with several plated options that could be ordered from the galley.

Picture-windows, homey furnishings, light woodwork, and high ceilings made both the lounge and dining room bright, inviting spaces. * Photo: Charlie Doherty

Dinners were served, typically with a choice of meat, fish, and vegetarian entrees. Imaginative menus displayed careful preparation and fresh ingredients. American cuisine was complemented with local Mexican specialties and European (often Greek) dishes; for example, one evening’s entrees were roasted lamb’s loin, Alaskan silver salmon, and spanakopita (plus the chef will, upon request, gladly cook up a steak, fish, pasta, or another special order).

Complimentary wine was served; in fact, all beverages onboard were included, so some passengers enjoyed cocktails, beer, or champagne with their meals.

Service throughout was friendly, efficient, gracious, and sometimes prescient. By the third night, Julio (our favorite steward) spontaneously appeared with our after-dinner espressos, even if we weren’t dining at one of his tables.

When I commented to Daniel, the bartender, that I was impressed with the variety of top-shelf bourbons, he inquired about my favorites; and, lo and behold, the next evening one of my preferred labels had joined the lineup. The cabin stewards were so unobtrusive that we never saw one making up our room daily or turning down the bed and placing the nightly chocolate mint.

Safari Endeavour’s Cabins

The Safari Endeavour’s 42 cabins, all outside with view windows, reflected the classic style of a ship of her pedigree. Ours was typical of the majority of accommodations: about 110 square feet with fixed twin beds, a small desk and chair, ample storage in metal cabinets covering the back wall, and a bathroom with heavy porcelain fixtures and a compact, curtained shower.

Though clearly 20th century in design, everything was meticulously maintained and functioned perfectly. Amenities included flat-screen TV with DVD player, iPod docking station, adjustable thermostat, an alarm clock, bathrobes, hair-dyer, conditioning shampoo, and body wash. There was no room service.

The TV channels displayed the ship’s schedule, aired the lounge talks live, and screened educational and entertaining programming. But there were no satellite channels and no Wi-Fi—guests took this cruise to connect with what’s outside their stateroom doors.

We occupied one of the score of Upper Deck cabins that opened on to a promenade encircling the ship. We and many others enjoyed propping our doors ajar to partake of the sea air, by day and night. Fifteen other similarly sized rooms below on Cabin and Main decks opened to interior hallways, and their windows were sealed. Three somewhat larger staterooms offered king-size beds and refrigerators.

Top accommodations were the four two-room suites, about 220 square feet, that added Tempur-Pedic mattresses, Jacuzzi tubs, and French doors opening to narrow, step-out balconies.

Top accommodations were the four two-room suites featuring Jacuzzi tubs and step-out French balconies. * Photo: UnCruise Adventures

A Tour of Safari Endeavour

I arose early the first morning at sea to complete my investigation of the American beauty that is the Safari Endeavour. Built in 1983 at the well regarded Jeffboat Incorporated’s shipyard in Jeffersonville, Indiana, she entered service as Clipper Cruise Line’s Newport Clipper. The sturdy little vessel changed names and operators several times before joining the UnCruise fleet in 2012.

First I circled the Upper Deck promenade, noting the two hot tubs and sauna on the aft deck (covered, but open at the sides). After heading up to the outdoor sun lounge on Bridge Deck, I tried not to disturb the morning yoga session taking place under the shaded section.

Retreating to the lounge down on Cabin Deck, I accepted a latte from one of the bartenders, who were constantly busy here whipping up specialty coffees, filling our reusable bottles with ice water, mixing drinks, and serving beverages.

Picture-windows, homey furnishings, light woodwork, and high ceilings made both the lounge and dining room bright, inviting spaces. * Photo: Charlie Doherty

This forward-placed lounge, the ship’s social center, was also bright and airy, with fine woodwork and large ceiling coves (similar to the dining room). Picture-windows offered a 270-degree view, and living-room-like seating accommodated all guests. The bar sat in one corner, and the opposite one had showcases filled with logo items for sale and a games cabinet.

Forward, in the space between the doors that led outside to the bow viewing area, was a buffet, which offered an early-riser breakfast selection, daily fruit and snacks, and hors d’oeuvres for the popular Happy Hour.

Audio-video gear included a roll-down screen to enhance the daily enrichment presentations, which featured several by Dave “The Bird Guy,” guest expert on our ornithology-themed cruise. (I found his talk on binoculars to be especially informative.)

But our first “fun-datory” meeting (mandatory, but fun) was held up top on the spacious sun lounge, where there was room for hands-on safety instruction with the snorkeling gear, kayaks, paddleboards, and the RIB (rigid inflatable boat) excursion/landing craft.

Next it was off to be fitted for wetsuits and snorkeling gear that would be ours for the rest of the cruise.

Snorkeling with sea lions was yet another memorable underwater adventure as the antics of the playful pups cracked us up–they even nipped at our swim fins. * Photo: UnCruise Adventures

Much of this was old hat to the passenger complement, many of whom had sailed with UnCruise before, usually in Alaska, even on this very ship. They were an active, adventurous, sociable group ranging from recent college grads to recently retired. Most were Americans, some Canadians, with a few couples from Europe. The one child onboard, a pre-teen, was doted on by all and seemed to enjoy the trip.

The cruise was not suitable for the mobility impaired; there was no elevator onboard, and RIBs must be clambered in to and out of several times a day.

The rest of our first morning was a leisurely cruise, welcomed especially by those still a bit jet-lagged, as we scanned the water for seabirds (spotted a few big ones: cormorants, frigatebirds, boobies, and such) and breaching mammals (no luck). But after lunch we got a nice preview of the week ahead.

Remote Coves in the Sea of Cortez

The ship anchored in a remote cove, and we tendered in for a little beach party that also offered an easy trek among the desert scrub (with a surprise sighting of a coachwhip snake feeding) and a basic snorkeling lesson.

Even though these were the least interesting of the waters we dove, so many of the coral and fish species spotted were new to me that I later retreated to the ship’s library to research them. (The small room next to the restaurant had an outstanding collection of reference material, plus a nice selection of DVDs and novels.)

Climbers on the challenging “rock scrambles” were rewarded with the rare sights of flowering cacti and a Baja blue rock lizard shedding its skin, both perhaps invigorated by that day’s early-morning rain shower, also a Baja rarity. Photo: UnCruise Adventures

Water & Land Excursions in the Sea of Cortez

Our course was flexible, plotted by the captain based on weather, sea conditions, and wildlife activity. Each evening our expedition leader, Annie, and her capable team would poll passengers on their preferences for the next day, with the choices typically involving both water and land excursions.

The groupings (usually comprising fewer than a dozen per guide) were formed and departure times posted.

The routine became a morning tour, back onboard for lunch, and then off on an afternoon adventure.

(And somehow the magical schedulers managed to book a complimentary massage for each passenger at a time that didn’t conflict with a tour.)

But the excursions themselves were anything but routine.

Snorkeling with Seas Lions off of Los Islotes

Snorkeling with sea lions off the rocky coast of Los Islotes was one unusual highlight. We delightedly engaged with the playful pups, which even nibbled at our flippers. Our guide Lindsey (a recently degreed marine biologist) performed underwater somersaults that were mimicked by the young sea lions.

We kept a wary eye to steer clear of the rocky shoreline, where papa bulls kept a watchful eye on their children.

Sea lions tucked into the cliffs near the snorkeling area. * Photo: UnCruise Adventures

Kayaking in Candelero Bay

Birding trips included kayaking in Candelero Bay, where we paddled close enough to brown pelicans (and other seabirds) to catch their scent.

And then there was the small group led ashore pre-breakfast one morning by Dave “The Bird Guy,” who set up his spotting scope for close-ups of species never before seen by this Midwesterner.

Costa’s hummingbird, hooded oriole, and both gila and ladder-backed woodpeckers were among those added to my life list.

The eagerly anticipated burro ride at Bahia Agua Verde, guided by a local ranchero family, was another big hit. Though we actually rode mules, they were just as sure-footed and tons of fun as we rambled up and down arroyos and mountain trails, through dry streambeds, and among the waves on the beach.

We even had time afterwards for swimming and paddleboarding in the beautiful bay before returning to the ship.

While the Safari Endeavour anchored in beautiful Bahia Agua Verde, passengers enjoyed a burro ride on mountain trails. * Photo: UnCruise Adventures

Docked in La Paz

The last day we docked in La Paz, a lovely and lively little port city blissfully free of the ubiquitous franchises of touristy towns. Our morning excursion was to famous El Serpentario De La Paz, a hands-on sanctuary where we met all the scaly creatures (and many of the feathered ones) we didn’t spot in the wild. That afternoon was our ultimate adventure with the whale sharks.

(Snorkeling with whale sharks is a seasonal excursion, best during the first half of UnCruise’s Baja schedule. Coincidentally, during its second half gray whales have migrated to Mexico, so UnCruise then includes a tour across the Baja peninsula to the Pacific Coast where passengers board panga boats to view these gentle giants during their calving season.)

The fascinating Serpentario in La Paz offered hands-on interaction with Baja lizards, other reptiles, and birds. * Photo: Laurel Doherty

Throughout our cruise, we’d barely seen any other ships or people—or ports—so the shopaholics among us were glad for the free time in La Paz to wander its bustling downtown, just steps from the pier. Filled with folks going about their everyday lives, this was a vibrant, authentic Baja city catering to much more than the tourist trade. But souvenir shops—as well as ones selling Mexican handicrafts and fine jewelry—were not hard to find.

Inviting cantinas lined the malecon, tempting passers-by to sit in the shade, gaze out to sea, and enjoy a taste of Mexico. Sipping a cerveza at sunset, we toasted Baja hasta la vista—until we see you again.

Fast Facts

UnCruise Adventures’ Baja cruise season is generally November through March.
Special theme sailings include ornithology, marine biology, and photography.
Select cabins are sold at a discounted single rate for solo travelers; any other cabin may be sold as a single at 175 percent of the double rate. Full-ship charters are offered. Rates include all tours, all onboard beverages, one complimentary massage, and ship transfers; gratuities are additional (at a recommended level of seven to 10 percent of the fare).
Seattle-based UnCruise Adventures operates a fleet of ocean-going and river-bound small ships. Besides Mexico’s Sea Of Cortez sailings, other small-ship adventures include Alaska’s Inside Passage, the Pacific Northwest, the Hawaiian Islands, and Central America (and Panama Canal) and the Galapagos Islands.