AmaWaterways Soulful Experience Cruise
I recently checked a river cruise off my bucket list — a seven-night AmaWaterways sailing on the Rhône River in France on the AmaKristina culminating with a three-day excursion to Paris.
In August, my wife Cheryl and I sailed on the 2024 Colors of Provence Special Friends Soulful Experience aboard the chartered AmaKristina.
The 10-night cruise-tour included a seven-night cruise on the Rhone River through the South of France, embarking in Arles and visiting Avignon, Viviers, Tournon and Vienne. We disembarked in Lyon, France, and then headed to Paris, for a three-night hotel stay, including two escorted bus tours and transfers to the airport.
Vienne, France. * Photo: AmaWaterways
Friends in the title refers to Friends of Festival at Sea. Founded by industry icon Patricia Yarbrough, president of Blue World Travel in San Francisco, Festival at Sea offers an annual African American full-ship charter cultural cruise that has sold out for 40 years.
Cheryl flanked by Patricia Yarbrough (left) and Regina Broadnax (right) of Festival at Sea. * Photo: Paul C. Thorton
Yarbrough’s Friends of Festival at Sea specializes in charters of high-end cruises, from lines like AmaWaterways, Viking and Regent Seven Seas, to exotic destinations.
The 156-passenger AmaKristina was full for our sailing.
156-passenger AmaKristina. * Photo: AmaWaterways
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The Backstory
AmaWaterways is rated among the world’s top river cruise lines, making it a safe choice for my first river cruise. The choice was made much easier with the introduction of AmaWaterways’ Soulful series in spring 2024.
To diversify its customer base — which included a negligible percentage of people of color — AmaWaterways decided to take select itineraries and add components that would appeal to cruisers from, or interested in, the Black and African diaspora.
The impetus for the development of the AmaWaterways Soulful Experience itineraries was Jazzmine Douse, at the time a business development manager, and currently a senior director of national accounts at AmaWaterways, where she has worked for nearly 12 years.
Jazzmine Douse, a senior director of national accounts at AmaWaterways. * Photo: AmaWaterways
Jazzmine recognized a need in terms of representation of diverse people in AmaWaterways marketing.
“It really clicked with me when I started presenting about this wonderful product, everyone in the photos was a certain demographic, and none of it was reflective of me, someone who had so much pride in the company I worked for. I started a conversation with the ownership, a chat about how we could provide some more diverse imagery; you know the argument that your marketing is a direct reflection of who you wish to welcome onboard your product.”
“And so, by us having more representation in the marketing, that would then generate more attraction through different communities to want to travel with AmaWaterways. I started some conversations with agents who were supporters of AmaWaterways, and through those conversations realized there could be an opportunity for Ama to develop cruises that celebrate Black heritage along the river. The core product — an AmaWaterways river cruise — is still there; their river cruise product is fascinating, and one that anyone would love. It’s just about making some small tweaks here and there to have some cultural relevance.”
AmaWaterways had done four Soulful Experience cruises prior to ours. (By the way, their branding has recently shifted from Soulful Epicurean to Soulful Experience.)
Jazzmine said, “The fifth [Soulful Experience cruise with AmaWaterways] is due to a partnership with Patricia Yarbrough who has been creating these luxury cruise experiences with an African-American twist for 40 years. So, she took out our first full-ship charter with a Soulful Experience theme. She sold that entire ship out, not a stateroom left over.”
I asked Jazzmine about the demographic composition of the Soulful cruises. “All of the Soulful Experience cruises are specifically curated to celebrate Black heritage in the Black and African diaspora. Generally, you are going to find that 90-95% of the passengers are going to be from that community. Of course, it is open to whomever would like to join if they have that mindset of wanting to learn or celebrate.”
Paul (in white shirt), his wife Cheryl to his right, and friends in the AmaKristina’s reception area. * Photo: Paul C Thornton
Boarding AmaKristina
Prior to embarkation of AmaKristina, I had seen several photos, but I was not expecting how sleek and long the 443-foot ship appeared when I first laid eyes on her in person. It looked like a stretched super yacht. It had three levels for passenger cabins (connected by stairs as well as a glass elevator) with much of the first level taken up by the dining room. Most of the cabins are on levels two and three.
The top deck (level four), called the Sun Deck, was only accessible via outside stairs from the deck below; it comprised several sitting areas — some covered from the sun and surrounded by a walking track. It also had a small, heated swimming pool highlighted by a swim-up bar, and a giant chess board.
The Sun Deck. * Photo: Paul C Thornton
The heated swimming pool. * Photo: AmaWaterways
The best sitting area was at the bow in front of the swim-up bar and the wheelhouse. This area offered a great view while passing through the mechanical marvels known as locks that popped up along the river from time to time, enabling the ship to traverse channels and waterways with different water levels.
Joan and Jim relaxing on the Sun Deck, at the best spot to watch the world float by, adjacent to the wheelhouse. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
As we approached a lock, the ship’s sirens would go off, yellow lights flashing, as the wheelhouse canopy automatically lowered itself.
For those who haven’t experienced river cruising (or an ocean cruise involving the Panama Canal), it was a unique experience.
Having a Look Around
We embarked on a Saturday in Arles after most of us were picked up by motorcoach at the airport in Marseille.
Entry to AmaKristina is via the small reception area on the third level, the Violin Deck. Here you’ll find many cabins including the four suites, the largest rooms aboard AmaKristina. Each has a bathtub and double-sized balcony.
AmaKristina deck plan. * Image: AmaWaterways
The other cabins on the Violin Deck represent a mix of most of the AmaKristina cabin types ranging from cabins with both an outside balcony and a French balcony (where there’s a large opening to the outside but no outside sitting space), to smaller rooms with a French balcony only.
At the far end of the Violin Deck is a cozy panoramic private dining room called the Chef’s Table, with floor-to-ceiling windows and several tables. AmaKristina does not have any specialty restaurants but offers a fine dining experience at the Chef’s Table, which is included in the fares. It offers a seven-course meal by reservation for each passenger once during their sailing.
On the night we went, reservations had been made by one of our traveling partners who was celebrating her birthday. The food and wine were outstanding, and a cake was brought out for the birthday girl, which we were able to share with other diners.
Joan Sloan, the birthday girl, her husband Jim, and Cheryl in the Chef Table dining room * Photo: Paul C. Thorton
Chef’s Table Argentinian Beef Striploin. * Photo: Paul C Thornton
Chef’s Table dessert trio — salty caramel chocolate torte, macaron, cherry sorbet and fresh berries. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
Also on the Violin Deck, behind the reception area, is a small gift shop. I never saw anyone staff the store (though the reception staff was nearby to help if you wanted to purchase something). On either side of the gift shop was a small sitting area with comfortable couches. In this area was a 24-hour coffee/espresso machine and a variety of drinks including lattes and cappuccinos. I had a cup in my hand most waking hours.
Just beyond the coffee area is the lounge. This is where activity takes place from morning to night. At breakfast time and again at lunch, it transforms into the Bistro, where one could eat a light breakfast prior to an early excursion or other activity, or stop for a light lunch on return from an excursion.
AmaKristina’s lounge. * Photo: AmaWaterways
In the afternoon the lounge hosted lectures, including one about French jazz; twice the couple presenting went to the lounge’s piano — he played while she sang.
At 6:00pm the lounge’s bar was the setting for the cocktail hour open bar from a limited set menu of tasty drinks. My favorite was a lemon drop martini. During the cocktail hour, Cruise Manager Crystal August would provide a port talk regarding the next day’s port.
After dinner, the lounge turned into an entertainment venue. The evening’s entertainment might be a local act brought in from the port AmaKristina was visiting. Or the entertainment may be part of AmaWaterways, which was the case with David Onka, AmaWaterways director of corporate entertainment who entertained us with a soulful R & B set that culminated with a fiery version of Prince’s Purple Rain.
David Onka. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
For our Friends of Festival at Sea sailing, after these nightly events the lounge turned into a music thumping, lights flashing nightclub commanded by Friends’ own DJ.
Our Cabin, #215
Level two is the Cello Deck, where cabins were mostly those with French and outside balconies. Our cabin, #215 (Category BB) was perhaps slightly smaller than a typical cabin on a traditional cruise ship, although I thought the shower, balcony and storage cupboards were slightly larger.
Paul’s BB Category cabin on Cello Deck, #215. * Photo: AmaWaterways
There was a queen size bed and a couple of nice chairs in the sitting area in front of the French balcony. There were reading lights on both sides of the headboard, and ample phone inputs. You will need at least one European converter.
Having researched AmaKristina in advance, I was excited about the Apple iMAC computer in the room where the monitor doubles as the television, as I am a fan of Apple products. Ok, I am a fanboy!
The excitement lasted for a couple of days, and then became the biggest complaint we had about our cabin. The television began to freeze for long periods of time. We accepted that as just one of those things on remote parts of the river. What made it such an issue was that when the television froze the remote control was ineffective — we couldn’t turn off the hard-wired television so when it was dark, the room had a permanent ambient glow all night (we never brought it up with our cabin steward because we were so busy having fun and enjoying excursions!).
We were impressed to find two complimentary liter bottles of Evian water in the room and pleasantly surprised to find those bottles replenished daily. The room was made up twice daily and each night we returned to the cabin to find chocolates on our pillows.
Cheryl on our ample balcony. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
Dining on an AmaWaterways Soulful Experience Cruise
The dining room was at the end of the Cello Deck, down some stairs or via a short ride in the glass elevator. It was understated elegance with several ornate booth-like compartments for a little added privacy for parties of six — perfect for us and our friends. We mostly sat close to a head table that for lunch and dinner displayed all kinds of cheeses, olives, nuts and figs. They threw a curveball one day at lunch and the head table became a sundae bar.
We ate all meals in the main dining room except for breakfast. We tended to miss breakfast due to early excursions, or late partying in the lounge. When we did go to breakfast, we had a choice of ordering from the menu including omelets, or visiting the buffet set up in the center of the dining room.
AmaKristina’s dining room. * Photo: AmaWaterways
Lunches and dinners were casual multi-course affairs. Shorts were fine at lunch, but long pants were required at dinner. For lunch on a couple of days, there was a buffet set up in the middle of the dining room.
There was a daily chef’s selection for the main course, an alternative main course, and a vegetarian selection. A selection of a white and red wine was offered. In addition, at both lunch and dinner, there were standards that were available to order every meal, like pizza at lunch.
Given the preponderance of gourmet offerings on the menu, I didn’t have high hopes for the pizza. No need to worry, the pizza was outstanding, and the accompanying beer was a welcome change from the wine at every meal. Well, it was really in addition to the wine!
Standard offerings at dinner included steak, salmon, and Caesar salad (with anchovies, unlike some cruise lines I know).
Lunches and dinners were always wonderful. I can’t think of a single item we were dissatisfied with.
Shrimp and grits. * Photo: Paul C Thornton
Chicken and waffles. * Photo: Paul C Thornton
My Favorite Spot on Board AmaKristina!
Down on level one was the Piano Deck, where there were a handful of cabins with river views, but no balconies. This was also the deck where you’ll find a small gym with a few high-quality pieces of fitness equipment, a hair salon, and my favorite place on AmaKristina — a massage room.
Pauls’ favorite place — AmaKristina’s massage room. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
Normally on cruises we get a couples massage, but that was not possible with one masseuse. I cancelled one of my excursions to opt for one of the few remaining appointments. It was one of the best massages I ever had (though I seem to say that after every massage), and, it was shockingly reasonable, which I have never said after any purchase ever. For the hour-long medium pressure massage, I paid half (with tip less than 120 Euros) of what I typically pay on a traditional cruise.
AmaWaterways Soulful Experience Cruise Ports & Excursions
In researching AmaWaterways, I had heard wonderful things about their included excursion program. While I can’t compare to other river cruise lines (as this was my first river cruise), I can say that we found our experience with excursions on AmaKristina comprehensive, creative, and exhausting!
The cruise route. * Map: AmaWaterways
As soon as we received access to the AmaKristina mobile app several weeks prior to boarding we could see how varied and plentiful the offerings were and began to select them. Each of the excursions enabled passengers to choose the pace of excursions — gentle or active. Unlike our experience with traditional cruise lines, it was common to choose more than one excursion in a day — although we eventually learned we were a bit ambitious in making our selections.
Virtually every day there was a biking, hiking, or walking excursion.
RELATED: Katherine Rodeghier tells us all about her “Tulip Time Cruise” with AmaWaterways.
Arles
Our first excursion was from Arles, a full-day Black Heritage tour in Marseille. The tour was fun mainly because we did it with four friends we were traveling with. The highlight was a lunch — which AmaWaterways surprisingly funded with $50 euros per couple — where we each had moules-frites (mussels and fries), the second most popular dish in France. Who knew? I love each of those foods separately but didn’t know that consuming them together was a thing. Of course, there was plenty of wine.
Avignon
On day three in Avignon, we chose an excursion to the Blachère Foundation, a stunning museum that has displayed and promoted the work of contemporary African artists since 2004.
Below is my favorite piece, a wooden life-size sculpture of a dying elephant (we learned that healthy elephants don’t lie on their stomach).
Stunning African art at the Blachere Foundation. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
The excursions on day four out of Viviers included a visit to a truffle farm. I chose to stay on AmaKristina as this was the morning of my massage. Cheryl visited the truffle farm, lamenting that it wasn’t earlier mentioned that this was not the season so there would be no searching for truffles. She otherwise found the tour informative and interesting, meeting the dogs that are used and seeing one in action after the farmer hid a frozen truffle.
Tournon
Our excursion in Tournon on day five was a steam train ride through the countryside and back, ending with a walkthrough of a small but fun train museum with several vintage train cars. We walked through an early 1900’s car replete with ornate toilet. The train ride was through a mostly mountainous area. Then things got interesting.
The train ran out of track. A couple of engineers decoupled the locomotive, backed it on to a turntable that they manually turned until the locomotive was facing the direction we had to head back to, then attached the locomotive to what had been the last car of the train. We headed back on the same track we came on.
Tournon, France. * Photo: AmaWaterways
Vienne
Day six was Vienne, where the highlight was a visit to a winery. A guided tour showed us how wine is made and afterwards, we sat down to be entertained by a jazz concert while being served red and white versions of the “fruits of their labor.”
A jazz performance in the winery. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
Our last excursion on AmaKristina was in Lyon. An observation that came into stark focus when we arrived in Lyon, the third largest city in France after Paris and Marseille, was the evolution of the ports along the Rhône from more rural areas to teeming cities.
Our excursion on day seven was a Lyon city tour highlighted by a tasting at Senegalese restaurant, Lyon Dakar.
Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere in Lyon. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
Three Days in Paris
On day eight we disembarked in Lyon, got on buses to the train station and then had a two-hour train ride to the grand finale, Paris.
Check-in to the included Le Meridian Hotel was seamless as it was all handled by AmaKristina. Crystal the Cruise Manager was active every waking hour, from herding us on buses for guided tours in Paris to meeting us in the lobby at 3:30 am to get us on to a shuttle to the airport for the trip home.
Paris was wonderful. Our days comprised a couple of tours (included in the package), one with a focus on French heroine Josephine Baker, another on visiting culturally significant sites in Paris.
Paris’s Arc de Triomphe. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
The guides selected by AmaWaterways were excellent.
On our own we visited the Eiffel Tower and ascended to the top. That was the highlight of the Paris portion of the trip for me.
View from the top of the Eiffel Tower. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton.
Well, except for maybe the food. Restaurants for our dinners on our own (not included in the package) in Paris were Mediterranean, Charly’s, and two French restaurants, Le Hameau, and Le Ballon Des Ternes.
Berry gazpacho with vanilla ice cream and meringue at Le Hameau in Paris. * Photo: Paul C. Thornton
Paris cuisine didn’t disappoint. On the night before we headed to the airport, Cheryl joined our friends at the Hyatt Regency rooftop bar overlooking Paris across the street from Le Meridian.
Interested in This AmaWaterways Soulful Experience Cruise?
I paid $5,500 per person, not including air, for our 10-night cruise-tour combo.
For 2025 and beyond, the future of the Soulful Experience series is hopeful. Here are some upcoming dates and itineraries. Cabins are still available.
- Enticing Douro, AmaDahlia — 3 hotel nights in Lisbon plus 7-night Porto cruise, November 14-25, 2024
- Secrets of Egypt & the Nile, AmaDahlia — 3 hotel nights in Cairo plus 7-night Luxor cruise, plus 1 more hotel night in Cairo, May 14-25, 2025
- Colors of Provence, AmaKristina — 7-night Arles to Lyon cruise plus 3 hotel nights in Paris, August 21-31, 2025
- Magic of Columbia, AmaMagdalena — 7-night Barranquilla to Cartagena cruise, October 18-25, 2025
- Enticing Douro, AmaDahlia — 3 hotel nights in Lisbon plus 7-night Porto cruise, November 11-21, 2025
- Colors of Provence, AmaKristina — 7-night Arles to Lyon cruise plus 3 hotel nights in Paris, October 19-29, 2026
- Secrets of Egypt & the Nile, AmaDahlia — 3 hotel nights in Cairo plus 7-night Luxor cruise, plus 1 more hotel night in Cairo, November 11-22, 2026
Paul C. Thornton is the host of The Joy of Cruising Podcast, and the author of a trio of books — The Joy of Cruising, Cruising Interrupted and The Joy of Cruising Again. Paul’s books are available on Amazon.
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HEIDI SARNA
