Adventure Canada Arctic Cruise
By Judi Cohen
True to its name, Adventure Canada delivered adventure from the moment we departed Toronto on a charter flight to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, throughout our 10-day expedition, until our last zodiac transfer in Qausuittuq (Resolute), Nunavut, the northernmost and largest territory in Canada.
Expedition brochures to this region always include insertions like “…this itinerary is subject to change…” or “…we hope to make landings at these locations…”.
I now know the reason: Much of these expeditions are left in the hands of Mother Nature as well as the expert decision-making of the captain and expedition leader who have safety as their top priority.
It is important to know how fluid your itinerary may be on these types of expeditions.
As a result of unfavorable ice conditions, we ended up exploring West Greenland far longer than planned before crossing Baffin Bay and arriving in Resolute Bay almost five days late.
The 198-pax Ocean Endeavour glimmering in the icy cold Arctic waters. * Photo: Judi Cohen
While this cut short our time in the Canadian Arctic and reduced the time we had to visit Canada’s Inuit communities, I was delighted to spend more time in the Greenland “iceberg factory” — where 80% of the world’s icebergs in the northern hemisphere are produced.
Being surrounded by thousands of icebergs of all sizes, colors, and shapes, in 24-hours of daylight was a surreal experience, and I found myself getting out of bed in the middle of the night to see brightly lit towering ice.
Here is the story about my 10-day, 1,770-nautical-mile journey aboard a small expedition ship.
It was uplifting, exhilarating, ever-changing, and I would do it all again in a heartbeat!
Judi Cohen on deck of Ocean Endeavour in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
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Welcome Aboard Adventure Canada’s Ocean Endeavour
Adventure Canada (located in Toronto) charters the Ocean Endeavour, a quirky 198-passenger expedition ship with a 1B ice-class rated hull. The ship started its life as a car ferry in 1982 and has since had two upgrades rendering it fit to explore Newfoundland, Labrador, the Canadian Arctic, and Greenland.
It is an excellent ship for those who want to discover the Arctic, with an experienced expedition team, knowledgeable and engaging subject matter experts, including botanists, geologists, experts in marine mammals and birds, historians, ecologists, anthropologists, photographers, artists, musicians, Inuit educators, and more.
The team joined us on our Zodiac excursions and hikes, and sat with us at mealtimes. It was unique to feel part of a community, and I felt comfortable to ask questions and made new friends during meals and in the ship’s lounge.
Unlike many newer, more luxurious, expedition ships equipped with submersibles and helicopters, Ocean Endeavour is a no-nonsense ship with stabilizers and advanced navigation equipment ideal for polar exploration — but few other bells and whistles.
Public Spaces Of Ocean Endeavour — Inside and Out
The Nautilus Lounge and Bar, aft of Deck 6 was always buzzing during presentations and entertainment. A gift shop was accessed through the lounge as well.
The Nautilus Lounge during a presentation aboard Ocean Endeavour. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The bright Compass Club and library on Deck 6 starboard were very cozy places to enjoy coffee, tea and snacks including high tea on some days, while keeping an eye open for wildlife or icebergs.
The Compass Club, Ocean Endeavour. * Photo Judi Cohen
Some workshops and presentations were also held in the Aurora Lounge on Deck 7 above the Nautilus Lounge.
Aurora Lounge. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The Polaris dining room forward on Deck 6 welcomed all passengers in one seating and served international cuisine, with house wine, beer, and soda (at extra cost).
Polaris Dining Room, Ocean Endeavour. * Photo: Judi Cohen
I enjoyed the hearty meals like the Beef Bourguignon served with carrots and portobello mushrooms, and also the Beef Wellington and poached salmon. Soups at lunch and dinner were always different and tasted great.
Roast Beef Dinner. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Tiramisu for dessert. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Sushi Station in Polaris Dining Room. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The airy Meridian Club midship Deck 9 had outdoor deck areas for wildlife viewing and was an ideal space for yoga and stretch classes.
Yoga and Stretch Class in the Meridian Club. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The reception desk and program director’s office were on Deck 5 with bulletin boards for important cruise related information and a cute suggestion box called the “Johann Sebastian Bach.”
Reception Desk during a quiet moment. Photo: Judi Cohen
All decks were accessible by stairs and an elevator serviced decks 4, 5 and 6 only.
Other facilities included a heated salt-water pool, hot tub, and sauna, which were close for the duration of our cruise because I believe there had been a GI kind of virus going around on the previous sailing. There was also a medical clinic staffed with a doctor and paramedic.
The Mudroom on Deck 3 with individual lockers with rubber boots and lifejackets, was the staging area for the Zodiac adventures. The Zodiacs and kayaks were stored on the top deck and craned off and on.
Mudroom with storage lockers for boots, life jackets and parkas. * Photo: Judi Cohen
My Cozy Cabin Aboard Ocean Endeavour
My Category 6, 135-square-foot cabin on Deck 7 (#7009) had twin beds (and bunks above, to accommodate as many as four passengers), and a desk beneath the picture window, with an obstructed view due to lifeboats. A small TV monitor mounted on the wall was my main source of information about the daily program and to watch movies.
There was also a telephone, safe and small refrigerator and amenities included a hairdryer, bathrobe, toiletries, and a refillable metal water bottle.
The 220-volt electrical outlets accommodated the standard two-round-pins prong, one above the desk and one in the bathroom.
Judi’s Cabin #7009. * Photo: Judi Cohen
VIDEO: Judi shows us around her cabin #7009 aboard Ocean Endeavour.
The Routine Of My Adventure Canada Expedition
Each day began with a wake-up briefing by John Blyth, the expedition leader, over the public address system. Breakfast and lunch were buffets, and dinner was typically served from a menu at our tables.
Between meals, there were lectures by the onboard specialists and we did morning and/or afternoon Zodiac cruises and landings with hikes where offered. Kayaking was also offered (weather permitting) to those who paid an additional fee.
We gathered for a recap meeting around 6:30pm, followed by a relaxing dinner, and then most people headed to the Nautilus Lounge and Bar for drinks. There were quizzes, humorous talks, and lively singing and dancing most nights.
Fellow Passengers Aboard Ocean Endeavour
Most of the 133 passengers on my sailing were Canadian, a small number were American, and there were a handful of international guests.
While the average age was 63, most passengers were fit and adventurous, enjoying Zodiac landings and challenging hikes.
A good number were returning guests.
Many Canadians choose Adventure Canada because it is a family-owned Canadian company, run by the Swan family. Every sailing has a member of their clan on board.
A Day-By-Day Look At Our Adventure Ocean Expedition Aboard Ocean Endeavour
First, we had a mandatory meeting in Toronto before departure (all passengers stay at an airport hotel, included in the fares, and must attend in person).
At the meeting, John Blyth, a free-spirited adventurer from the Northwest Territories, introduced himself as our expedition leader and started by saying:
“You are all embarking on an expedition not a cruise, and expeditions come with no guarantees of places we might visit or wildlife we may see.”
Creating an air of mystery, John hinted that anything on our itinerary could change, and indeed it all did!
During the pre-trip meeting I was introduced to ice charts and heard about how thick ice in Resolute Bay could prevent the ship from making it to our destination.
Official route map; which shifted several times due to weather and ice. * Image: Adventure Canada
Day 1 — Arrival in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland
The view from the sky was breathtaking as our chartered plane from Toronto passed over a massive icecap and the sweeping fjord on our approach to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, a former military airport.
We were in the high Arctic now, where heavy-duty arctic buses transported us to Zodiacs for a wet ride to Ocean Endeavour.
View from plane approaching Kangerlussuaq Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 2 — Splashes Of Primary Colors And A Taste of Greenland In Sisimiut Greenland
We crossed the Arctic Circle before catching sight of Sisimiut, Greenland’s second largest city, founded in 1756 as a whaling village. It was an uphill walk on a winding dirt road to meet our Inuit guide for a walking tour of houses, hotels, churches, and an outdoor museum constructed on steep rock outcroppings.
Approaching Sisimiut, Greenland; grab your long lens to capture wildlife on sea ice. * Photo: Judi Cohen
The reds, blues, greens, and yellow houses popped against the otherwise grey landscape, with fishing boats and recreational vessels dotting the water. It reminded me of fishing villages with colourful saltbox houses in Newfoundland, Canada.
Sisimiut, Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Adam, a musician from our ship, played his guitar as we sampled traditional Inuit wild foods at the “Taste of Greenland” event in the Noma Hotel. I could not resist trying the whale blubber, reindeer, muskox sausage and muskox soup. The blubber was not my cup of tea, but the sausage and soup were delish.
Sampling whale skin at Taste of Greenland, Sisimiut, Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
As I meandered back to the ship, an Inuit woman pointed out the Kayak Center and told me that Sisimiut is the birthplace of the kayak, an important tool for survival in Greenland used for whaling, sealing, and fishing. The word kayak originates from the Greenlandic word Qajaq.
Judi in front of Greenland Memories shop in Sisimiut Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 3 — Ice Ice Baby! The Northern Hemispheres’ “Iceberg Factory” Ilulissat, Greenland
The sun reflected off hundreds of enormous icebergs piled high along the shore as we approached the small town of Ilulissat, meaning icebergs in the Greenlandic language. The town was aptly named due to its location at the mouth of a long ice fjord filled with icebergs from the most productive glacier in the northern hemisphere called Sermeq Kujalleq.
The Ilulissat Icefjord became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.
I walked along the 1.3-kilometer winding walkway leading down to the water and then climbed over rocks to find a perfect place to sit and fully process the beauty of the enormous icebergs reflecting in the water at the Icefjord lookout.
Returning to the Icefjord Center with a gallery and theater solely focused on glaciers and iceberg formation, I noticed people walking on the sloped rooftop to gain entry. The design reminded me of the ultra-modern architectural design of the Fogo Island Inn in Newfoundland.
I enjoyed a view of the colorful houses perched on the rocks throughout the town with a population of 4,400. The sounds of 6,500 sled dogs howling and barking loudly was almost deafening.
Sled Dogs in foreground with colourful buildings in Illulisatt, Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
As if Ilulissat had not wowed us already, a Zodiac cruise later in the day took us up close (a safe distance) to gigantic icebergs like the ones I had seen only in Antarctica.
The sun tried to peek out from behind the clouds, creating a dramatic backdrop as we cruised from iceberg to iceberg.
Zodiac excursions in Ilulisatt Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Once back on the ship there was a mandatory bear briefing. We were entering polar bear territory in the High Arctic and extra caution needed to be exercised to keep passengers a safe distance from these giant carnivores.
They are not the cuddly creatures portrayed on the Coke commercials! There were armed bear guards as part of the expedition team who would accompany us on Zodiac cruises and perimeter landings.
Should a bear be spotted from the ship, zodiac cruises, landings, and kayaking were all cancelled. Bears come first in the Arctic.
Day 4 — Entering Bear Country On The West Coast of Greenland At Hollandergbugt
It was very foggy as we approached Hollandergbugt and while hiking was cancelled, we took Zodiacs to the glittering black sand beach with steep cliffs behind and a towering iceberg in front of us. Bear guards stood watch along the perimeter.
Black Sand Beach in Hollandergbugt Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Before going to bed I went out on the deck where magnificent blue icebergs surrounded the ship under a bright sun until well after midnight.
Midnight view with ice bergs in distance, from Ocean Endeavour. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Day 5 — Tasiussag, Greenland
With continuing anxiety about access to Nunavut (the largest most northern territory of Canada) due to sea ice, our itinerary again shifted taking us further north in Greenland to make our crossing to Canada through Baffin Bay. When the clouds lifted in Tasiussag, it was announced that a Zodiac excursion would be proceeding.
Zodiac ride in Tasiussag Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
We crossed three lakes on Zodiac before arriving at our landing site to hike across rivers, streams and spongy tundra. Clouds hung over the glacier and yet it was sunny just a few hundred meters away. The terrain was quite challenging for hiking and I welcomed the opportunity to get some rest on a rocks.
Judi taking a rest during a hike in Tasiussiag, Greenland. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Days 6 to 10 — Sea Days Cruising From Baffin Bay, Greenland to Nanuvut, Canada
Four full days were spent at sea heading north along Greenland and then across Baffin Bay making our way to Canada’s Nunavut territory.
While the seas were not overly rough during our expedition, the rockiest bits were crossing from Greenland to Canada (though I didn’t need any seasickness meds and I didn’t hear of many others who needed them either).
- Why is the Sky Orange?
- The Climate of Change and the Case for Optimism
- The Franklin Story: Discovering the HMS Erebus
- Inuit Nunangat Past, Present, Future: An Inuit perspective
- Glaciation
- Marine Mammals of the Eastern Arctic and West Greenland
- Arctic Birds
There was also an array of workshops on watercolor painting, iPhone photography, meditation, journaling, yoga, and Inuit mitten making and wild foods. I enjoyed learning and sampling foods during the wild food workshop with four of the Inuit Culture Educators — Jonathan, Randy, Franco and Tyler.
Wild food workshop and tasting with Randy, Franco and Trevor. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Iphone photography workshop in the Compass Club. * Photo: Judi Cohen
After 20 hours of cruising across Baffin Bay, we approached an expanse of sea ice that looked like puzzle pieces in all shades of blue, grey, and white shifting around as the ship pushed through.
The captain opened the bow for passengers to watch for wildlife as the ship scraped the sea ice beneath. Announcements were made when wildlife was spotted throughout the expedition.
Ocean Endeavour entering the ice fields between Greenland and Canada. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Everyone Outside looking for polar bears on ice. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Spotting A Polar Bear In the Distance
On one of our sea days, I was thrilled to see my first polar bear of the trip far in the distance swimming between the icebergs and stopping to glance toward our ship for photos!
We also had a chance to Zodiac in Baffin Bay among icebergs and I chose a “silent zodiac” for my first time.
First Polar BearSighting swimming around the ice. * Photo: Jennifer Bain
We all agreed not to speak, shout, play music or create noise of any kind. It was a magical experience to hear nothing but the sound of a waterfalls on the glacier, ice scraping against the bottom our Zodiac, and the crashing sound from a calving glacier.
Our Silent Zodiac experience — Not a word was spoken for almost 2 hours. Silence is golden. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Before leaving Greenland, the ship anchored, and Zodiacs took us to a rocky beach at Cape York (Perlernerit) for a hike across soft and spongy tundra to a high cliff with thousands of fulmars flying and chirping loudly in the mist.
Zodiac Landing at Kap (Cape) York (Perlernerit) in Greenland with fulmars flying all around us. * Photo: Judi Cohen
When the mist cleared, the peak of Cape York’s “Iron Mountain” became visible. Since we did not have an opportunity for a traditional polar plunge on this sailing due to the ice, when the sun peeked out, some passengers stripped off their outside layers and jumped into the frigid waters.
Once back aboard the ship we saw our second polar bear of the trip swimming gracefully lifting its head out of the water.
On the bow as Ocean Endeavour makes its way to Resolute through the sea ice. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Upon our arrival off shore Resolute (a hamlet on Cornwallis Island, one Canada’s northern-most communities), we remained on the ship while staff went ashore with our passports for Canadian customs and immigration protocols.
Once cleared the captain moved the ship along Devon Island so we could land at Beechey Island the following day.
Resolute from the Ocean Endeavour. Photo: Judi Cohen
I will always remember the haunting and emotional visit to Beechey Island, a tiny barren island off the southwestern tip of Devon Island in frigid Lancaster Sound.
Sir John Franklin’s ships, HMS Erebus and HMS Terror, remained on Beechey Island over the winter of 1845-46. They left behind storehouses, workshops, and the graves of three crewmen who died that winter. The HMS Erebus and Terror disappeared after they left Beechey Island and all 129 men were lost. It is thought that they died of lead poisoning from the cans used to store meat.
Over 40 expeditions were launched in search of Franklin’s party and the harbor at Beechey Island became the base for much of that search.
Graves from Franklin Expedition on Beechey Island in Nunavut. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Historian and writer Joseph Frey, a Royal Canadian Geographical Society Ambassador, shared the story of Beechey Island as we stood solemnly before the graves.
It was fitting that the day was foggy, cold, windy, and wet giving us a taste of what Franklin’s men must have experienced wintering on Beechey Island.
Joseph Frey Historian speaking about Beechey Island. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Ocean Endeavour finally anchored in an ice-free Resolute Bay. An Inuit family living in Resolute came on the ship to share their personal stories about their relocation to the territory of Nunavut from Labrador, and the challenges they faced in the 1950’s and continue to face today given the isolation, harsh environment and darkness for four months each year.
Despite the Inuit community being forcibly relocated during the Cold War years from their homes in Labrador, Baffin Island and Arctic Quebec to Nunavut, the community remains strong and resilient and proud of their Inuit roots and traditions. Read more about this history here.
The traditional ways of hunting and fishing continue, and the focus on looking after the elders and the community has been reinforced.
We arrived to Resolute in the afternoon and anchored offshore. Unfortunately we didn’t have time to visit and walk around in Resolute, although the itinerary had called for a day to tour.
Fun photo in the mudroom with some of the expedition team. * Photo: Judi Cohen
Tips For Adventure Canada Arctic Cruising
- Take fully waterproof pants, gloves, hats, and a dry bag for the Zodiac excursions.
- No need to take a jacket since Adventure Canada provides a nice blue waterproof jacket with hood that is yours to keep after the expedition. Jackets were distributed in Toronto after the orientation meeting.
- Follow the packing list and do not exceed the 20kgs for a checked bag and 10kgs for your carry-on. They do weigh the bags when checking in for the charter flights.
- Bring the correct plugs for the 220-volt outlets, the kind with two round prongs.
- Carry an eye mask for sleeping since there is 24 hours of daylight during the summer months (and the cabin curtains aren’t complete black-outs).
- Pack your sense of adventure and go with the flow. Anticipate changes daily based on the winds, currents, and ice.
Final Words About My Adventure Canada Cruise
My expedition with Adventure Canada was a transformational travel experience, unlike anything else that I’ve done in the past. We were a floating onboard community, comfortable to ask all kinds of questions of the expedition team experts and the Inuit cultural educators.
The Inuit elders, Randy and Looee, encouraged passengers to share their stories and lived experiences with others when we get home. I intend to read more about Inuit history and share all that I have already learned on this trip. I am grateful to have had the opportunity to visit the high Arctic in Greenland and Canada and learn so much about this rarely visited region of the world on a small ship.
Ocean Endeavour is ideal for folks interested foremost in the destination and learning about the native communities. People love Adventure Canada because of the community building and incredible knowledge and experience in the Arctic and the other areas in which they offer cruises. Many guests are repeaters who have become familiar with expedition team and with the family who owns the company.
My Adventure Canada Arctic cruise expedition would likely not appeal to travellers who gravitate to cruises with large luxurious cabins with balconies and butler service, multiple dining rooms, casinos and broadway-style performances.
Interested In An Adventure Canada Arctic Cruise?
The itinerary, fares and other information can be found HERE for 2024.
Fares for an interior twin start at $9,222 per person for the 12-night cruise. The triple and quad cabins starting even lower.
What’s Included:
- All meals
- All excursions (except kayaking was an extra fee)
- One night at a Toronto Airport hotel
- Transfers from the charter aircraft to/from the ship
What’s not included:
- Charter flights to/from ship
- Alcohol (wine, cocktails, beer) can be purchased at the bars and in restaurant
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HEIDI SARNA
