Holland & Belgium Riverside Cruise Aboard the 110-Passenger Debussy (2026 REVIEW): Luxuriating Through The Tulips

Caption (above): The handsome Riverside Debussy berthed at the charming Dutch town of Maastricht. * Photo: Peter Knego

Holland & Belgium Riverside Cruise

By Peter Knego

In early June, a small parcel arrived at my doorstep. To my delight, it contained a tee shirt I bought while visiting a brewery in Bruges, Belgium three months prior, on tour with Riverside Cruises Riverside Debussy. Somehow, I had left it behind in our stateroom and wrote it off as a casualty of not checking every nook thoroughly before departing the vessel.

After several decades of cruising the high seas and inland waterways of the world, I could fill a suitcase or two with items that never made their way home. But thanks to Riverside’s diligence and top-notch hostess and cruise director Carolina, not my fab brewery tee!

Another first world problem was that after a week of cruising the waterways of Holland and Belgium with Riverside, my partner Mike and I each returned 10 pounds heavier, thanks to the epicurean food, fine, included wine and a countless procession of frothy cappuccinos.

The cuisine, graciously attentive service, fascinating and fun tours and that gorgeously posh, chic vessel made parting with the Debussy a truly sweet sorrow.

Our cultural and, yes, caloric adventure began in Amsterdam on a fine early spring day as we exited the sprawling Central Station, where a driver whisked us off to the Riverside Debussy, When the car pulled up to the vessel, which was berthed at the main cruise terminal, cruise director/hostess Carolina greeted us while a fellow staff member graciously consigned our luggage to our suite.

A Warm (With Perfectly Chilled Champagne) Welcome

At the gangway, another staff member offered us refreshing face towels. As the suites were still being turned over, we were led to the Palm Court Lounge, where flutes of champagne were freshly poured. Normally, I would skip such an indulgence in the late morning but in that elegant, skylight-topped ambiance with that “perfectly chilled condensation” dribbling down the side of my glass, I caved. And when a refill was offered…well, why not?

This would be my second Riverside Cruises experience following the inaugural cruise of the Riverside Debussy’s twin sister and first vessel, the Riverside Ravel, for a sweltering August week on the Rhone in 2023. I enjoyed my time on that outing but it was still very early in the game with staffing and supply issues that were beyond Riverside’s control in that early post-Covid era. The hardware and potential were certainly there but Riverside needed a little more time to hit its stride.

As far as the hardware is concerned, the Debussy is one of four vessels completed for now defunct Crystal River Cruises, which included the aforementioned Ravel, Mahler and Bach.  These rakish looking vessels sport a dashing vertical prow that is reminiscent of a 1930’s yacht and a sleek, streamlined superstructure. Their 443-foot length and 36-foot beam are the maximum standard to transit the locks in the major European river systems.

But while they are the same dimensions as most European river cruise boats, which carry up to 190 guests, the Riverside quadruplets only carry 110, providing almost twice as much space per guest.

The Suites

Just in time to put a halt to my champagne binge, our suite was ready. We followed a staff member to our 258-square foot Seahorse Category Suite 210 on port Deck 2. It featured a king-sized bed that faced a wall of glass, the top portion of which could slide down with the touch of a button for optimal viewing and fresh air. In other words, a French balcony.

VIDEO: Below, Peter shows us around his Seahorse Suite, #210.

Thoughtful touches like individual reading lights, small night stands, each with two USB ports for charging phones, a bottle of chilled welcome bubbly, chocolates, a desk with an American socket and two more USB ports, a mini bar stocked with soft drinks, beer and chilled water, a Nespresso coffee maker with pods and proper coffee cups as well as fine stemware, binoculars and plush bathrobes for use during the cruise, slippers, a full walk-in closet with safe, drawers and plenty of hanging space and a wonderful bathroom with twin sinks and a glass-enclosed shower with rainforest and hand held options. Another bonus was the “halo” lighting built into the mirrors in the stateroom and bathroom that miraculously take a few years off with their flattering glow.

The Debussy has six categories of suites, depending on size and location. On Deck 2, in addition to 20 Seahorse Suites, there is one Sonata Suite measuring 237 square feet and near the stern, eight Melody Suites measuring 194 square feet. The smaller suites have a slightly different layout with the beds facing the desk, versus the window, and have smaller bathrooms with a single sink.

On Deck 3, there are eight Symphony Suites, which are located aft like the Melody Suites and also measure 194 square feet. There are also 16 Riverside Suites with the same particulars as our Seahorse but located one deck higher.

Two palatial Debussy Suites are the creme de la creme of river cruise accommodations. These 506-square-foot apartments rival those on the high seas and boast separate bedrooms, a lovely living room with a faux fireplace, a walk-in closet and a huge bathroom. When combined with neighboring Riverside Suites, they form the ultimate living quarters, 753-square-foot Owner’s Suites.

The Debussy has four passenger decks, beginning at the top with Vista Deck (4). It is almost the length of the vessel, so plenty of space can be spared at the top on either side for the glass skylights that crown the lounge below. This also creates a wonderful long platform or runway between the glass panels that overlooks the bow.

Posh furnishings on this level create an outdoor “living room” of sorts that is served by the “pop up” Vista Bar (which, with the rest of the top deck railings and furnishings can be lowered to clear low lying bridges), followed by a canopied area. On the forward side of the Vista Bar, there is an LED screen that was used during our cruise to broadcast movies and sporting events. There is also a grill set up which is popular on warmer cruises but not utilized on our cold weather voyage. Open and sheltered seating areas continue aft to the stern, which culminates at a small crew area.

Riverside Deck (3) begins with an open platform and the wheelhouse, followed by the Palm Court Lounge, which is infused with light from windows on three sides and those lovely, trellised skylights. The Palm Court is served by the Botanist Bar and followed on the port side with the Vintage Room, which is used for private meals and special pairings. The entrance to the Palm Court on the starboard side has a nice gallery with a library and a selection of board games.

The Atelier, a cafe with a counter where you can order fresh espresso drinks, gelato and snacks, follows with seating on either side overlooking a handsome spiral staircase that leads down to reception. There is a small buffet here with snacks that vary throughout the day.

Suites follow the Atelier, accessed via a central passage that leads aft to the gorgeous indoor pool and an open terrace on the stern. We never had a chance to use the pool on our cold weather itinerary, but it was an essential go-to during our sweltering Rhone trip on the Ravel.

Seahorse Deck (2) begins with the Waterside Restaurant, which has a buffet and open kitchen forward and alcoves of water level seating that are connected by galleries on either side. It is a handsome space with some of the best food and service we’ve ever experienced on a river cruise.

The Reception follows on the port side of the entrance to the Waterside and on the starboard side, the Pantry has delicious pastries and other treats as well as teas, chilled soft drinks, fresh coffee and a very popular espresso machine, which was especially handy for “grab and go’s” before heading off on excursion. The rest of Deck 2 continues with Suites.

On Harmony Deck (1) there is a spa treatment room, a fitness center with cardio and weight machines and a complimentary self-service guest laundry (soap and softener are also provided), which was especially convenient since we were joining the cruise after a week of touring. However, one may need an MIT degree or at least a bit of help from one of the Riverside Debussy’s staff members to figure how to operate those machines.

The three bottom decks are connected by the spiral staircase and a pod-like elevator forward. Outer staircases lead up to Deck 4 and a staircase near the stern connects the aft portion of Decks 2 and 3.

It was a lovely day and since we still had a bit of time, Mike and I quickly donned our gym clothes and went for a refreshing run across a nearby bridge on the Ij River to a little island paralleling the cruise terminal.

Sunny days in Amsterdam in early March are not to be taken for granted and after a couple miles of running in the fresh but chilly spring air, we both felt like a million bucks when we got back to the Debussy to shower, unpack and indulge.

Unlike many other Europe river cruise lines, Riverside also offers this seven-night “Holland In The Heart Of Tulip Season” cruise in two sections, the first, a three-nighter from Amsterdam to Antwerp and the second, a four-nighter from Antwerp to Amsterdam.

RELATED: Cruise Expert Sue Bryant compares 19 top European river cruise lines, including Riverside. 

4 Ways To Book This Cruise

The cruise is sold in four different tiers; basically, the two Premium options cover more inclusions than the pair of Full Board options.

Here and below are the details — note, currently the Riverside Cruises website is not the easiest to navigate, including finding this tier info, we're hoping they improve their site soon!

Premium All-Inclusive With Excursions

We were booked in “Premium All Inclusive With Excursions,” which includes the amenities and services below.

Premium All-Inclusive Without Excursions

There is also “Premium All Inclusive Without Excursions,” which covers the features below:

Full Board With Excursions

If you're looking for pricing to include all meals and excursions, then look to the “Full Board WithExcursions,” option. Below are more details.

Full Board Without Excursions

And, finally, there is a choice of “Full Board Without Excursions,” which basically includes only meals.

The Delectable, Delicious Debussy

At 6:30 PM, as Riverside DeBussy cast her lines and began her journey, we attended the safety briefing and staff welcome in the Palm Court, reunited with some of that perfectly chilled Champagne. From there, we headed off to dinner, an open seating affair where you are greeted at the entrance by a member of the staff and escorted to a table of your choice.

Since the Debussy was half full, we never had a problem finding a nice table for two near the window, where we enjoyed the sunset along the Ij River and Amsterdam Rhine Canal on our way to our first stop, Arnhem.

To say the cuisine and service with Riverside is outstanding is actually quite an understatement. Even the evening butter selections are like works of art and the bread, especially those mini-baguettes topped with sea salt, were so good, we could have just stopped there with full contentment. Further, the well-poured and included wines never disappointed, from perfectly chilled whites to flavorful reds, all enhanced with fine stemware.

Having recently sailed with Viva Cruises aboard Viva Enjoy, I couldn't help but compare Viva and Riverside. The itineraries were similar and the food was top notch on both. The differences — Viva wins for price point and variety of dining options; while overall Riverside's cuisine was even better, on par with Tauck or close (for me, dining on a Tauck river cruise some years ago was the best ever).

Dinner is full service, versus the combination buffet and full-service breakfast and lunch. Dinner menus include four appetizers and salads, two soups, a pasta, a choice of three entrees, a choice of three desserts or cheese, followed by gourmandises.

There are also “Riverside Classics” available each night that include heart of romaine with green goddess dressing, tomato and mozzarella salad with roasted pine nuts, truffle pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and pecorino cheese, asparagus risotto with pecorino, a ribeye steak with green peppercorn sauce, a salmon filet or a chicken supreme with Hollandaise sauce and a selection of side orders.

Within each category, there are usually vegetarian, vegan or locally influenced choices.

That first night, as the sun gradually faded off our port side and the cityscape of Amsterdam morphed into grassy farmland, we each indulged with far too much bread, followed by a twice-baked gouda souffle´(enhanced with roasted garlic veloute, semi dried cherry tomatoes and a parmesan crisp).

I went with the cream of artichoke soup (with smoked trout and tarragon sabayon) while Mike had the porcini consommé (with mushrooms, vegetable pearls and herbs). We both reunited over the pasta, spaghetti con zafferano (with light saffron cream sauce, sun dried tomatoes, chanterelles and pecorino cheese).  And we parted once more on the entrees — Mike had the braised short rib (with horseradish mashed potatoes, glazed vegetables and pickled shallots) while I went with the Bali goreng (stir fired noodles, garlic, onion, vegetables, egg and chile, topped with peanut butter sauce). On the latter, when in Holland, if there is an Indonesian choice, go for it.

We were both in glycemic sync with dessert, the tompouce, which was sort of like a flaky Napoleon but with caramel stroop sauce, almond crumble and a black sesame tuile.

We needed some time to digest before retiring, so headed up to the tranquil paradise of the Palm Court where Tosho, the Debussy’s resident pianist, played. It didn’t help that there was fresh popped popcorn at the entrance, which of course, we couldn’t resist.

Debussy was berthed at Arnhem when we awoke. Although I’m not much of a breakfast enthusiast and despite my pledge to not overindulge after that lavish dinner, the night prior, I caved.

For breakfast, the Debussy has a full-service menu with offerings like omelets, waffles and avocado toast. Well, I had to order the avocado toast and a glass of fresh pressed carrot juice (yes, as a dyed in the wool Californian, I love fresh carrot juice!).

And then, the ultimate test was could they make a proper European style cappuccino in a cup, versus a soup bowl drowned in milk? The answer to that, was a resounding YES and, for those of us who do not do milk well, there were oat, almond and soy options, to boot.

VIDEO: Below, have a taste of the impressive breakfast buffet aboard Riverside Debussy.

My light breakfast plans were completely dashed when, after placing our orders, I headed to the buffet. Fine cheeses and cold cuts on one side of the room, an open kitchen counter with an attending chef up forward, gorgeous fruits, salad ingredients, a choice of oils and vinegars, smoked salmon, homemade granola, fresh squeezed juices, power shots, smoothies, Greek yogurt, honey, glorious croissants, pains au chocolate, fresh baked breads…once again, we both hobbled out of that dining room overly engorged.

Arnhem, Netherlands

At 9:30am, a local tour guide greeted us at the gangway for a walking tour of Arnhem. Hovering behind us, the John Frost Bridge was named for the World War II British commander who defended the prior Arnhem Bridge, which was bombed and the subject of the film, A Bridge Too Far.

From the waterfront, it was a short walk through the town square to the St. Eusebius Church, now a museum, which was built in the 15th century, destroyed in WWII and subsequently rebuilt. There is an elevator in its tower that takes visitors to an observation deck and there are two glass balconies that provide rather exhilarating views from a nearly 200 foot vantage. Our tour also visited the crypt underneath the church, which has visible human remains.

We returned to the Debussy in the late morning, enjoying the views as she sailed off towards Nijmegen. And then, there was lunch…

As with breakfast, there is a lunch menu with daily specials one can order in addition to that commodious buffet.

VIDEO:  Graze Riverside Debussy’s generous lunch buffet, below.

There are buffets and then there are Riverside buffets. On the port side, fresh baked breads, cold cuts and irresistible cheeses beckon. At the open kitchen counter, chefs prepare fresh pasta dishes with a selection of sauces and other daily selections. On the starboard side, there is a fantastic salad bar with fresh greens (often including arugula, radicchio, spinach and other lettuce alternatives along with several types of lettuce), lovely garden veggies, homemade dressings and a selection of oils and vinegar for those like myself who like to make their own. On the aft side of the buffet, there are desserts, pastries and other daily treats.

In retrospect, I don’t believe at any time after we boarded the DeBussy that we experienced true hunger, just an ongoing lust for delicious food that was constantly sated. No amount of running, treadmills and steps could undo our caloric intake, so we gave in, indulged and loved every minute of it.

It was rather gloomy outside as the Debussy cruised along the Ij River to Nijmegen, which was perfect for yet another indoor indulgence. At 2:00 PM, beer sommelier James Kellow hosted a tasting of no less than eight Dutch and Belgian brews in the Palm Court.

While I’m more of a wine drinker than a beer fellow, I thoroughly enjoyed the chance to sample the different and nicely chilled offerings, which were poured in lovely wine glasses, to boot. It was both educational and nice way to meet fellow guests.

We had a short stop in Nijmegen, mainly to pick up guests who left in Arhem on the full day tour to Keukenhof Gardens but there was enough time for us to take a peek at the marina where there are some interesting and historic preserved boats and roam into the main part of town for some window shopping.

Back aboard the warm and commodious DeBussy, we enjoyed pre-dinner drinks in the Palm Court, where our lovely cruise director Carolina debriefed us on our next port of call, Maastricht.

Another magical dinner followed, with that evening’s selections including a goat cheese tartelette (with onion jam and truffle honey), pasta with garlic pesto (and mozzarella, prosciutto and black olives), baked halibut, grilled lamb chops, kruiemelkoek (candied apple rosemary crumble with apple skin chips) and flamboze via flip (raspberry muroise confit with sugar covered almonds).

The next morning, as the Debussy navigated the Meuse River and the Lateral and Juliana Canals, Vista Deck was completely collapsed to clear some low-lying bridges on the approach to Maastricht.

After breakfast, Mike made a stop at the Botanist Bar where Rares, “the chef du bar,” offered mixology lessons to a receptive gathering. Among the potent potables demonstrated were Basil Martinis, the whiskey-based Riverside “Signature” Monsieur Crocher and a deliciously fragrant Lemonzero Cloud Fizz.

Highlights Of The Lowlands

In Maastricht, we had an hour before our scheduled afternoon tour, so we disembarked, crossed a bridge to the other side of the river and crossed back into the main city square. A brilliant sun emerged after a rainy morning, as did the locals. The sidewalks, shops and cafes were filled with families taking advantage of the sunshine and relatively mild temps. The town, itself was especially charming and a place that would be nice to return to and enjoy one of those inviting cafes.

Back at the Debussy, a coach was waiting to take us on our afternoon outing to the Caves of Valkenburg. After a 20-minute drive into the local hills — I had no idea there were any in Holland — we arrived at the lovely town of Valkenburg, where the streets are lined with nice restaurants and cafes.

At the entrance to what looked like a quarry — in actuality, that is what it originally was for the extraction of marl blocks used in construction — we were escorted to an open tram and driven through a series of tunnels past some interesting paintings, charcoal drawings and carvings. The commentary was in Dutch, so this part of the excursion was a a bit of a wash.

But the walking tour through the fascinating Velvet Caves that followed more than made up for it as we were led past some of the more interesting works of art and learned how the caves were excavated, beginning in the 11th century, and later used by the locals for shelter during various sieges all the way through World War II.

In the 18th century, various nooks were turned into chapels, storage areas and art displays, making it a unique and popular attraction then and now.

Afterwards, we had some time to explore the ruins of the 11th-century castle on the top of the hill overlooking Valkenburg.

When we returned to the Debussy, her top deck had been fully restored with the lovely Vista Bar ready to regale guests once more.

Dinner was yet another extravaganza of flavors and culinary aesthetics, enhanced with nice wine as the sun vanished behind the cloud cover. Our leisurely eve concluded in the Palm Court with keyboards by Tosho before we retired to our little haven, Cabin 210.

Breakfast In Our Cabin

We savored another coveted sleep-in while cruising the Albert Canal and were awakened with the delivery of room service breakfast. There were so many choices on the room service menu, including fresh squeezed orange juice, the daily smoothie, power shots, Greek yogurt with honey, omelets, homemade granola, bananas, almond milk (for the granola) and, for Mike, some gorgeous waffles doused in powdered sugar and syrup. We indulged as the willow-fringed scenery wafted past our panoramic wall of glass.

Antwerp, Belgium

As we neared Antwerp, Europe’s second largest port after Rotterdam, that pastoral scenery became more and more industrial.  Small villages, farms and trees gradually morphed into refineries and container terminals with huge ships and cranes.

We transited one final lock and began our approach to Antwerp’s historic waterfront. We had just done a walking tour of the city’s highlights the week prior on another cruise, so enjoyed a chance to venture off on our own to the splendid KMSKA, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts, for an afternoon of aesthetic indulgence. Within its Neo-Classical facade are four floors of art, spanning five centuries, from Van Eyck to Magritte and every genre in between.

With an hour or so and plenty of afternoon sunshine to spare, I went for a run along the beautiful promenade and park lining the riverbank, returning in time to freshen up and head to the Palm Court where the quintet MusicDream performed an impressive set of tunes from Big Band to Dixieland and Jazz classics.

In one way, it seems incongruous to hear such music on a Belgian waterfront, but actually Northern Europe is a haven for American-style jazz and these guys did it with gusto.

After that, we settled into a now familiar evening routine of a presentation about the next day’s highlights, a delightful and delicious dinner in the Waterside and soothing music in the Palm Court.

A Very Early Wake Up Call

Before retiring, I asked at reception if they knew what time we would be making our approach to Ghent, where a famous former ocean liner was ending its days at a local scrapyard. I’m a ship historian and this would be a rare chance to witness a historic ship in its final throes. Hostess Carolina smiled, then called up the captain, who offered to give us a wakeup call 20 minutes before we berthed.

At 1:25 AM, with Mike snoring obliviously, the phone rang, just in time for me to lower the window and capture that historic ship, the Astoria, which was the former Stockholm of 1948.  And, as a special bonus, the captain shined the Debussy’s searchlight along the Astoria’s hull as we made our moonlit approach. This level of attention to detail and personalized service is just another way Riverside is a cut above the rest.

Bruges, Belgium

A few hours later, we were scrambling off onto a coach for a morning tour of Bruges, astounded to find it was just the two of us and our excellent guide, Johannes, who empathized with my grogginess and assured us we were doing the right thing by taking such an early tour as Bruges is overwhelmed with tourists by midday.

On the 20 or so minute drive, Johannes provided some historic background on Bruges, which was, in the 13th through 15th centuries, before access to the sea silted up, one of Europe’s key trading ports. After a period of decline, it became one of Europe’s most coveted tourist destinations.

For decades, I’ve been told Bruges, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is Belgium’s most beautiful city and aesthetically, it was, indeed, like walking through a pristine Medieval and Renaissance dreamscape with its picturesque canals, cobblestone squares, ornate facades, freshly blooming flowers and wilting willows.

Just as Johannes warned, by noon, those streets that started out so tranquil and quiet were bustling with tourists. We escaped the throngs and capped off our visit with a wonderful beer tasting at the Bruges Beer Experience brewery overlooking the main city square, where I bought that tee shirt.

Ghent, Belgium

With just enough time to grab a quick bite in the Atelier, we were back on another coach for our second tour of the day, Ghent Highlights and St. Bravo’s Experience. After our first 10 minutes in Ghent, I was smitten. It didn’t hurt to have deep blue skies and dramatic fluffy clouds casting a kaleidoscope of shadows on the Romanesque St. Bravo’s cathedral where we were able to view paintings by Van Eyck, Rubens and other masters.

From the cathedral, we walked through the city square to St Michael’s Bridge for a view over the old fish market. For me, Bruges had met its match and then some in Ghent, which, while not as pristine and manicured, felt far more authentic.

On the way back to the coach, we passed by the Castle of the Counts and the strikingly contemporary Market Hall, built in 2012.

Back on board our beautiful boat, I was on deck for our late afternoon sail past the Astoria, repeating the moonlit morning’s documentation in reverse.

We had another morning to cherish on the Debussy as she made her approach to Rotterdam, where we leisurely cruised the vast harbor on another wonderfully brilliant but slightly chilly day.

Mike would enjoy a pair of tours that afternoon, an architectural walk through the heart of Rotterdam and and the Windmills of Kinderdijk, while I ventured off to visit the preserved SS Rotterdam, the 1959-built ocean liner that is now a popular museum and hotel.

When I returned, we both donned our running clothes for a loop around the small island across from the Debussy. That evening, a classical duo played in the Palm Court before we headed off to sleep.

At dawn the next morning, we were approaching the cruise terminal in Amsterdam, where our adventure had started six days prior. However, instead of disembarking, we had a full day and night to enjoy this cosmopolitan city. At 7:30am, after a quick breakfast, we were back on the Riverside coach for the hour or so ride to Keukenof Gardens, one of Holland’s most popular attractions.

Once again, while I am in no way an “early bird,” I was grateful for the opportunity to see these splendid gardens before the throngs of tourists descended. And, on that sunny day, boy did they descend!

We were back aboard in time to catch the tail end of the lunch buffet. I enjoyed a nap and a chance to start packing, while Mike, who is far braver than I, took one of the Debussy’s e-bikes for a ride around Amsterdam.

Dinner began a little earlier that evening, giving us time to meet up at 8:00pm for the Riverside Signature Event, which began with a short walk to a local canal boat for a dessert cruise that also had some delicious hors d’oeuvres, cheeses and plenty of bubbly to enhance the vistas of Amsterdam’s bustling canals. We toasted with newfound friends and then resigned ourselves to the fact that our wonderful adventure was coming to an end.

My Final Remarks

In sum, Riverside met or exceeded our very high expectations, and we would gladly go back in a heartbeat. The food, service, boat and itinerary were the perfect storm in creating a life-affirming experience.

And now, I have the tee shirt to remember it by.

RELATED: Peter reviews his Riverside Ravel cruise here.

RELATED: Reporter Anne Kalosh tells us all about the new Europe-based river cruise ships launching in the next year or two.

READ MORE: Cruise Expert Sue Bryant compares all of the major European river cruise lines. 

Interested In This Cruise?

The weeklong springtime “Holland In The Heart Of Tulip Season” cruise Peter did is offered in March and April and starts at $5,881 USD per person for “Full Board” and $7,211 USD per person for “Premium All Inclusive With Excursions.”

If you'd like some help planning and booking this cruise, perhaps with a pre- or post-cruise stay in Amsterdam or elsewhere in the region, we highly reccomend our favorite travel advisor Kevin to assist you. Show your interest below and Kevin will get back to you shortly.

 

 

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