By Heidi Sarna
With the handsome 166-passenger Star Clipper anchored off in the distance, as if posing for a postcard, we motored in one of the ship's tenders to Isla Iguana in Panama.
Isla Iguana with the Star Clipper in the distance. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
It was one of the week's several wet landings. This meant we climbed out of the tender by the front hatch, going down a short ladder and into the water, up to about mid-calf, before walking a few steps on to the beach.
Getting there is part of the adventure with Star Clippers, and my Panama and Costa Rica cruise was no different. It’s a casual, get-your-feet-wet sailing-style cruise that harkens back to the tall ship days of yore. You don’t book Star Clippers for the food or to loll about in fancy cabins, you go for the sailing vibes and to hang out with like-minded travelers.
The line’s trio of traditional-style sailing ships were inspired by the speedy clippers of the 19th century. Getting up there in age themselves, the twin 166-passenger Star Clipper and Star Flyer were built in 1991 and 1992, respectively, while the larger 227-passenger Royal Clipper debuted in 2000.
The 166-pax Star Clipper. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Panama & Costa Rica Cruise in December
The sand on Isla Iguana was flaming hot from the equatorial sun as we padded over to the shade of some trees, where we discovered the island’s large lumbering namesake iguanas like to hang out. One had to be least five feet long.
Isla Iguana, big surprise, is full of iguanas! * Photo: Heidi Sarna
We put our beach bags down and soon set off on a short hike along a trail to the more dramatic windward side of the island, where a sliver of sand was framed by jagged rocks favored by red hermit crabs.
On the way back to the main beach, we saw a crater off to the side of the path, evidence of one of the bombs the US government exploded in the area in the mid 20th century. Who knew? I looked it up and learned more about this part of the island’s checkered history — it was the site of target practice for US bomber pilots from 1941-1952.
Bomb crater. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Luckily the island has recovered and is now a destination, albeit still remote, for tourists to enjoy a beach day.
After our short trek around the island, we went back to our slice of beach paradise. We snorkeled — spotting colorful schools of small tropical fish as well as snaking moray eels — then ditched the gear, and just swam and bobbed and posed for photos in the warm turquoise sea the temperature of bath water.
The author and her friend on the soft sands of Isla Iguana. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
We also walked along the soft sand as the seawater lapped at our feet, marveling at the skads of pin-sized holes made by tiny sand crabs scurrying about.
It was one of my favorite days of the week.
A few more beach stops would be included in our week as well as opportunities for nature hikes to explore a bit of the region’s jungle-y terrain and tropical rainforests.
The Star Clippers’ MO, whether on a Panama and Costa Rica cruise or any of their itineraries, is all about fun in the sun, light adventure and living the sailing life, while enjoying cozy nautical-style cabins, a well-stocked bar and generous buffet-style meals in the dining room.
Our Panama & Costa Rica Cruise Itinerary
Our cruise sailed along the southern coast of Central America, from Panama to Costa Rica (it also goes in reverse). A handful of these weeklong Panama and Costa Rica cruise itineraries are offered generally in December and January, while some Panama ports may also be included in South America and/or Central America-focused cruise itineraries.
Below is the Panama and Costa Rica cruise itinerary:
- Balboa (near Panama City), Panama — embarkation port
- San Jose Islands (Pearl Island, a beach day), Panama
- Isla Iguana, Panama (a beach day)
- Marine Park Golfo de Chiriqui, Parida Island, Panama (a beach day)
- Golfito, Costa Rica (for Piedras Blancas national park excursions)
- Quepos, Costa Rica (for Manuel Antonio National Park excursions)
- Islas Tortugas, Costa Rica (a busy beach with many other tourists; we enjoyed a walk up a hillock for nice views)
- Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica — debarkation port*
Panama & Costa Rica Cruise itinerary. * Map: Star Clippers
*We signed up for an excursion that packaged the two-hour drive to the International Airport in San Jose, where many of us were headed, with a stop for lunch and an interesting tour of a coffee plantation. The views along the way were lovely (finally, we were seeing the interior of Costa Rica) as we snaked through the lush green mountainous terrain. This tour was 99 € (Euros are the official onboard currency), or about $115 USD per person.
5 Reasons to Choose a Star Clippers’ Panama & Costa Rica Cruise
1. Beaches
On this 7-night itinerary, nearly every day was a beach day. The best were in Panama, especially Isla Iguana, as I mentioned at the beginning of this review. Another beach day took us to Pearl Island; after a long tender ride, we enjoyed walking along the wide expanse of sand to admire the beautiful designs created by gazillions of tiny crustaceans and mollusks foraging in the sand.
(On a down note, a terminal moraine of garbage lined the back of the beach, washed ashore during high tide, as sadly you'll find on many beaches around the world.)
Scenic Pearl beach with its natural sand art. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
What the tide brought in … * Photo: Heidi Sarna
The routine on most days had the Star Clipper anchoring offshore and shuttling passengers to the beach on its tenders and RIB (aka, rigid inflatable boats) — often a combination of both vessels — necessitating wet landings like below. A degree of fitness and agility is required to maneuver in and out of these boats.
Coming ashore on Pearl Island. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
On beach stops, the ship’s water sports team would set up a few kayaks and paddleboards for passengers to use (at no charge).
Kayaking from the beach in Panama. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
2. Wildlife
We saw the most wildlife on two guided (optional) excursions we signed up for on Costa Rica stops. On these walks in the Piedras Blancas park and the Manuel Antonio National Park, we spotted two- and three-towed sloths up in the trees doing their slow-motion cartoon routines.
Hello hiding sloth, in Costa Rica's Manuel Antonio National Park. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
We also saw (and heard!) howler and white-faced Capuchin monkeys, and spotted tropical birds including many yellow-throated toucans.
A yellow-throated toucan. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
It was helpful that the guides all carried high-powered telescopes on tripods to assist us in seeing the wild critters through the branches.
The guides on both tours were excellent, knowledgeable, outgoing and happy to answer questions.
Our playful guide in Piedras Blancas National Park. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Several times during the week, we watched dolphins and sea turtles swimming gracefully through the water alongside the ship — a beautiful sight to behold.
On beach days, you could have a go at snorkeling (you can borrow snorkel gear from the ship) to try and spot some marine life, such moray eels, sea turtles and tropical fish. However, overall, the snorkeling was mediocre compared to the top snorkeling spots in other parts of the world (such as French Polynesia, the Grenadines, Cayman Islands, Vieques in Puerto Rico, Palawan in the Philippines, Raja Ampat in Indonesia and Galapagos Islands).
3. Nature Walks
If you sign up for optional excursions (many priced around $100 USD per person) to the National Parks in Costa Rica — Piedras Blancas and the larger more well-known Manuel Antonio National Park — these are the days you can go on guided nature walks.
We were driven to Piedras Blancas (about 30 minutes), and then followed our guide into the jungle. A cacophony of bird and wildlife sounds serenaded us as we moved through the lush foliage and past giant leaves.
A walk in Piedras Blancas. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
On our walk in Manuel Antonio National Park, which encompasses beaches as well as jungle, some of the route was via wide asphalt pathways. And there were many other tourists at this park. I had imagined something more remote.
The guides' tripods with zoom lenses, here in Manuel Antonio National Park. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
On a few of the beach days, there were also opportunities to walk on nearby trails.
That said, overall, this isn’t a cruise where you’re going to go deep into the jungle, as you would if you were on a land-based tour in Costa Rica. You’re in port for just part of a day and so you’ll get to skim the edges of the national parks.
4. Sailing Vibes
You’ll always encounter passengers who could care less about where the Star Clipper ships are going because they’re there for the sailing experience (even if engines are used much of the time) and to soak up the beauty of these majestic tall ships moving through the sea much as they did (use your imagination!) in the old days.
There's lots of looking up at the sails, especially at sunrise and sunset, a most beautiful sight. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Each time the sails were raised, usually in the morning and again in late afternoon, the schmaltzy theme song from the film “1492: Conquest of Paradise” was played loudly to set the mood. A core group of passengers really got into it and would always be up on deck to soak up the moody music and the sailing vibes. I wasn’t quite as into it as some were, but I totally get it, it’s a very cool experience.
VIDEO: See and hear the sail-raising ritual, below, in Heidi's video from a previous Star Clippers cruise.
5. Casual & Carefree
As most of the time is spent up on deck, at the open-air Tropical Bar or in port at a beach, you could spend just about the entire week in your bathing suit, shorts and t-shirts if you’d like, no need to bring fancy duds.
Casual and carefree on a Star Clippers cruise. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Though you’re not permitted to wear your bikini or speedo in the dining room, you can certainly dress in resort casual garb at mealtime — nice shorts, sun dresses, polo shirts.
That said, many folks (including moi) do like to dress up a bit for dinner just because; even so, that means men in pants and short sleeved button-down shirts or polos and women in breezy dresses or jeans with dressy tops.
Other Reasons to Consider Star Clippers — Activities, Amenities & Entertainment
Just Hanging Out on Deck
For many passengers, being aboard a traditional-style clipper ship was as important as the ports. It’s what had them coming back — one woman was on her 15th Star Clippers cruise and I was on my seventh.
RELATED: Heidi reviews her Star Clippers Greek Isles cruise with the kids.
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RELATED: Peter Knego reviews his Star Clippers French Riviera cruise.
The 16 sails were raised — with the help of electric winches and sometimes passengers’ muscle power too — whenever the conditions were right to run with the wind; generally, about a quarter to half the time.
There were always a coterie of passengers who sat up on deck to watch the world go by through the web rigging framed by coils of rope and dozens of pegs, cleats and large periscope-like ventilators.
Hanging out on deck, especially around sunrise and sunset, is special. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
VIDEO: See what the top deck of the Star Clipper looks like, below.
Climbing the Masts
This popular activity is offered once or twice per cruise. Interested passengers are invited to climb after donning a harness and waiting one's turn; you can reach a point nearly 60 feet up, at the crow’s nest platform.
Climbing the masts was a popular activity. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Lolling About in the Bow Sprit Netting
You can also ask to go onto the bow sprit, or climb down into the bow sprit netting at the front of the ship for the sheer novelty of lying above the sea and getting some good photos.
Posing on the bow sprit. * Photo: Christina Colon
Leaning Against the Railing
If you’re lucky and on the look-out like we were, you may spot dolphins and sea turtles swimming near the hull, playfully following the ship.
Passengers enjoying the views and looking for dolphins! * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Going on a Photo Safari
Once per cruise you can hop in one of the tenders to be taken out on a “photo safari,” motoring around the ship at all angles to photograph it under full sails. You may be on safari for nearly an hour.
The crew filing on to the bow sprit and mugging it up for passengers on the photo safari! * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Eager photographers on the weekly photo safari. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Swimming & Soaking
It’s impressive that the Star Clipper has not one, but two small pools on deck, the perfect place to soak and cool off on a hot day.
There's also a massage hut sequestered in a private nook to enjoy hour-long massages for just $60 Euros — they were excellent and I booked two of them over the course of the week.
Star Clipper's massage room up on deck. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Daily Yoga & Deck Walks
Our sailing was a dubbed a “yoga cruise,” as many Star Clippers’ sailings are, which entailed a daily guided yoga class on deck each morning run by a pleasant guest instructor, a senior woman Melanie (who had impressively worked at both Duke University and the Mayo Clinic). She made everyone feel relaxed and welcome.
Morning yoga on deck. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
To stretch and pose as the ship swayed and rocked in the wind against the backdrop of the beautiful sea as we sailed to the next port, was a cruise highlight. Mats were provided and most classes attracted 10 to 20 passengers.
Most days there was also a stretch class on deck and a walk-a-mile activity too, led by one of the young sports team members.
Stretch class on deck. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Reading in the Library
A library with a small selection of books and comfortable seating area occupies an air-conditioned room adjacent to the bar, which was the ship’s main hub.
Theme Evenings
Most evenings after dinner in the Topical Bar there was wholesome, old-fashioned entertainment, from the always-popular crew and passenger talent show to a fashion show and a pirate night dress-up party that most guests enthusiastically joined. Don’t forget to pack a bandana, eye patch and striped T-shirt!
Pirate night is a always a big hit on a Star Clippers cruise. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Fun contests elicited lots of laughs among the costumed crowd, from races with a balloon between your knees to balancing a glass of water on your head.
Packing List for a Panama & Costa Rica Cruise
- Water-proof bag for your devices, due to the many wet landings
- Sunscreen
- Hat (it’s hot in Central America!)
- Scarf or swimming cover-up to shade your shoulders and arms on deck (I'm tell you, the sun is HOT!)
- Waterproof Teva or similar sandals
- Bathing suit
- Long shorts or leggings … especially if you want to climb the masts (you’ll need to get into a harness)
- Small foldable umbrella to shield sun on beaches and walks
- Insect repellent
- Pirate costume (things like a bandana, eye patch, striped shirt, pirate hat etc)
Star Clipper’s Cabins
Cabins are cozy (small!) and are meant as places to sleep and change clothes, and less about hanging out for long periods of time.
Our Category 2 cabin (#330) was 129 square feet, with wood and brass trim for a nautical look. There are a handful of larger rooms, including an Owner’s suite. However, most cabins are similar in layout to ours, though most are just a tad smaller at 118 square feet with portholes, compact bathroom, desk and stool and a surprisingly adequate closet.
And note, a handful of cabins have a third pull-down bunk-bed-style birth — three in a cabin would be a tight squeeze, but it’s possible if three friends or family members are traveling together. I did this some years ago on a French Polynesia cruise with my two besties and it was fine, considering how much time you spend up on deck and not in your cabin.
This cabin, similar to ours, also has a third berth that can fold down from the upper part of the wall. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
RELATED: Three old friends share a cabin on a dreamy Star Clippers cruise around French Polynesia.
VIDEO: Here's a look at Heidi's room, #330, below.
Dining & Service Aboard Star Clipper
All meals are open seating and served in the main dining room, at mostly tables for six and eight, making it easy to meet your fellow cruisers.
The Star Clipper's main restaurant. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style and feature a generous spread of options (always plenty of meats, cheeses and salads), plus stations for made-to-order omelets and pasta dishes.
Lunch buffets offer lots of choice, including many salad toppings, fish, seafood and meats. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
There were only about 90 passengers on our cruise. Now, if the ship was closer to maximum capacity (166), the restaurant would definitely feel tight and the banquettes (booths) seating six that line both sides of the room would be very snug elbow-to-elbow affairs. They’d also require folks to slide in and out every time someone wants another helping at the breakfast and lunch buffet.
At dinner, passengers are served from a menu with several options for each course. Highlights for me included sea bass with asparagus, crab cake with aioli, lobster tail, and delicious desserts like apple crumble.
Lobster tail, yum! * Photo: Heidi Sarna
Each day my friend and I looked forward to enjoying a Prosecco or two before dinner (at just 3.50 Euro a glass) at the Tropical Bar up on deck to mingle with new friends and enjoy the smoldering sunset fading into the sea. At dinner, we bought bottles of decent wine for about 25 Euros, which could be corked and consumed over as many days as needed.
A Few Caveats About Our Panama & Costa Rica Star Clippers Cruise
While I don’t always expect the WiFi to be good on a cruise, especially a small sailing ship, what was irritating on this Star Clipper sailing was the lack of a clear explanation about how to log-in. No one seemed to know, even the crew. This is low-hanging fruit — explain the process; if there isn’t WiFi, then just say so.
The other issue that was a bit troubling, was Star Clipper’s tender service that was used to get passengers between the anchored ship and shore. On our cruise it was very disorganized at times. It seemed like the tender and Zodiac crew were all new and that, often, no one seemed to be in charge.
First, we had to go down a rickety staircase that was positioned alongside the ship so passengers could get down to the tenders — going down a portable metal staircase to the tender is the typical process for a tall ship like this, but this one was off kilter, rattled and seemed on its last legs. From what I could tell, it needed to be replaced or tightened up.
Going to port, most times we had to transfer from the tender (as it couldn’t get close enough to the shoreline) into a smaller RIB (inflatable Zodiac-style boat) for the last bit to shore for a wet landing.
While this is part of the fun and adventure, on this cruise, the transfer process seemed haphazard and not well coordinated; it's like we were on a training cruise.
On one tender trip, there weren't enough life jackets for everyone. Oops!
Finally, on the beach day at Golfo de Chiriqui (Parida Island, Panama), when one tender was nudging into the sand to drop off and then pick up passengers to shuttle them between the ship and shore, the tender driver seemed to lose control of the tender and it began moving sideways with the tide and was on the verge of tipping over (the weather and tide conditions seemed normal). As we watched from the beach, people were jumping over the side into the shallow water as they feared the boat was capsizing; it was very chaotic for a while and scary. Somehow, no one was hurt. Again, who was in charge? Were the tender/sports crew all brand new? Was the boss on vacation? The whole incident was glossed over by the crew.
Interested in this Panama & Costa Rica Cruise on the Star Clipper?
Caveats aside, this was my seventh Star Clippers cruise and I’m fond of the experience. I’m drawn to the casual sailing vibe and the community that forms quickly with your fellow passengers. We made many friends on this cruise, who we dined with and joked with on excursions and at the Tropical Bar. They were a friendly bunch and we had a ball together.
Some of the friendly and fun folks we befriended on the cruise. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
So, if you’re looking for a laid-back tall ship sailing experience with like-minded others, then consider a Panama and Costa Rica Star Clippers cruise to escape a cold December for anyone living in a wintery climate.
A 7-night Panama and Costa Rica Star Clippers cruise sailing between Panama City and Puerto Caldera, Costa Rica (offered in December and January), starts at about $2,000 USD per person, including all meals and snorkeling equipment. Guided excursions and drinks are extra.
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HEIDI SARNA
Dear Heidi
Quite detailed and very well explained.
Brilliant, thank you!
Ciao,
Adriano
Thank Adriano! I think you would enjoy Star Clippers!