Nile River Cruise Review
There are certainly faster ways to travel from Luxor to Aswan; it is doubtful that any will be as unforgettable as a small-ship cruise with Nour El Nil.
The longest river in the world has for centuries captured the imagination of travelers. Sailing on a dahabiya is one of the best ways to experience ancient Egypt, when slow travel was the norm and time the ultimate luxury.
Eco-Friendly Nile River Cruise with Nour El Nil
While there are a number of luxury Nile River cruise tour operators, I chose Nour El Nil for their commitment to responsible travel and eco-friendly boats powered by the winds of nature. Their boats don’t have engines, relying on wind power most of time (if/when the wind dies down, there are strong little tug boats following along nearby to give a nudge when needed.)
The owners of the company have a strong mission of closing the loop in travel and keeping dollars in the local economy.
Owned by three entrepreneurs with an eye firmly planted on sustainable travel, they each bring a component towards accomplishing that goal. Expertise ranges from building boats with sustainable materials (solar panels will be installed in the near future), connecting with local villagers and guides, and promoting local craftspeople with a beautiful curated onboard shop set up in the salon.
Their 5-night/6-day Nile River cruise from Luxor to Aswan avoids the crowds and gives plenty of time for exclusive comfort in a tranquil setting; an antidote for the stresses of modern life.
A map of the 5-night itinerary. * Image: Heidi Sarna/Google
Travel on the Nile begins about an hour south of Luxor.
After visiting the beautifully restored Temple of Khnum, in Esna, we board our home for the next six days — the 180-foot Adelaïde.
The stunning Temple of Khnum. * Photo: Alison Abbott
With a maximum capacity of 24, she comfortably fit our 18 passengers in 10 luxury rooms and two panoramic suites. The cabins were not numbered, but in a quirky move, they were differentiated by a colored ribbon. Ours was purple!
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There are six dahabiyas in the Nour El Nil fleet that sail together, though a distance allowing privacy for each one. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Our Nile River Cruise Boat
The 24-passenger Adelaïde is one of six dahabiyas in the Nour El Nil fleet and the second largest.
Each boat is slightly different in size, but all have the same boho aesthetic, carefully curated by their owners.
Nour el Nil’s owners, Eleonore and Enrique. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Their distinguishing red and white sails stand out in the harbor.
Dahabiyas are a classic way to sail the Nile. Step back to a time gone by when Europe’s wealthy used this type of boat to travel and explore the antiquities and tombs of Egypt.
Updated with all the amenities a modern traveller would want and wrapped in stylish design, their small size and shallow draw allow for visiting unique ports and colourful villages off the path of larger river cruise boats.
Adelaïde has two decks, and the top deck is a luxurious covered open-air lounge. Handwoven Egyptian fabric covers the comfortable couches and floor pillows line each side of the deck.
A single hammock cries out for a guest with a good book.
The lovely sundeck. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Low coffee tables are strategically placed throughout making an excellent spot for afternoon tea or cocktails.
One long wooden table is moved to the center of the top deck for family-style meals on deck; there are flaps that drop down on the sides in case of inclement weather.
Meals are served up on deck. * Photo: Alison Abbott
On the bottom deck, besides the cabins, there is a chic salon with couches and a library for days where there might be inclement weather, or guests want a quiet space to read.
The Adelaide’s chic salon. * Photo: Alison Abbott
The Egyptian crew on board amongst the six boats numbers over 100 and it won’t take long to be charmed by their warm and friendly nature.
They were one of many highlights on the trip.
Staterooms on the Adelaïde
The center hall leading to the staterooms is whitewashed in a brilliant, glossy white. The theme continues into the cabin where, floors and ceilings sparkle and are the backdrop for crisp white linens (Egyptian cotton of course), leaving the large windows to provide the décor.
One of the 10 Luxury Cabins aboard the Adelaide. * Photo: Alison Abbott
A few chic accents add a punch of colour, but the landscape passing in the distance is clearly the main event.
The ensuite bathroom is adequate with eco-friendly on demand hot water.
Screens on all the panoramic windows allow guests to enjoy the gentle rhythms of the night at waters edge.
In room air conditioners are available, but we only used it once when we first arrived. The night-time breeze provided perfect sleeping weather for our November dates. There is underbed storage for luggage.
One of the 2 Panoramic Suites aboard Adelaide. * Photo: Nour El Nil.
Food on our Nile River Cruise
On board, you’ll find the most authentic Egyptian cuisine. Traditional recipes, local ingredients and delicious dishes appearing three times a day from an efficient kitchen smaller than my stateroom. The chef is a magician!
Lunch is served! * Photo: Alison Abbott
Fresh fruits and vegetables are purchased daily from the local markets. Fisherman deliver the daily catch boat side. Each meal delivers multiple options.
Favourites included the breakfast crepes smothered with fig jam and honey, Egyptian eggs loaded with herbs and spices, and of course the tahini which most of us could have eaten with a spoon.
Falafel and Nile perch were high on the list and zucchinis in a rich tomato sauce appeared daily.
Our 5-Night Nile River Cruise Itinerary
Day 1 — board the Adelaïde in Esna
Day 2 — visit El Kab & Edfu
Day 3 — day of sailing & swimming
Day 4 — visit to Gebel Silsileh
Day 5 — visit to Kom Ombo
Day 6 — disembark in Aswan
Every day on board brings a different adventure, and the owners are keen to let the day unfold rather than giving out a lot of details. Those who like a well-structured agenda will have to learn to go with the flow.
That said, each boat has a head guide who sails on board (like a general manager) and gives a briefing every night after dinner. In port, the same group of guides would meet us at each stop for the day for touring.
The Edfu Temple, visited on Day 2. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Activities include taking a swim in the clear waters of the Nile, exploring the quarry where many of the blocks for the pyramids were cut, and hiking through the dunes into the desert.
Authentic Egypt is on full display from the window views of your dahabiya. Farmers are tending their fields, cattle are grazing, kids splash away an afternoon in the calm Nile waters.
Close-up views of village life along the way. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Birdwatchers will delight in the vast array making their nests along water’s edge.
And visiting remote villages and sites off the normal tourist trail is the mission of the owners.
A market in Esna. * Photo: Alison Abbott
They are committed to an authentic Egyptian experience for their guests.
One night we walked along the river to a village just as the sun was setting. Kids on donkeys shouted hello, Enrique, one of the owners, led us barefoot (as he always is) to a local village to meet the extended family and tour their home.
A walk in a village at dusk. * Photo: Alison Abbot
Children wanted to practice their English and our gracious hosts were enthusiastic to share their lifestyle.
Our last stop of the cruise is the Temple of Kom Ombo, honoring Sobek, the crocodile god and Haroeris the falcon god.
The Kom Ombo temple. * Photo: Alison Abbott
The symmetrical temple overlooks the Nile in a lovely setting. The adjacent Crocodile Museum displays their mummified remains in all shapes and sizes.
The mummified crocodiles. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Later that day we sail under the modern Aswan bridge. The sounds of traffic bring us back to reality.
The green valley and honking horns are a shocking contrast to our days of luxury floating along sand dunes, feluccas and fishing boats. The contrast of ancient Egypt and everyday modern life is at once jarring and incongruous.
I must admit, it almost feels like a dream.
In Gebel Silsileh on Day 4. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Additional Travel Before or After a Nile River Cruise
Most travelers will combine a Nile cruise with additional touring around Egypt.
The excellent team at Nour EL Nil can provide planning for days outside of the cruise. We used them for Cairo, Aswan and Luxor and were very pleased. The skill in balancing our interests with advice about what we could fit in the schedule was on point.
If you’re lucky, you’ll work with some of the same wonderful guides that work with the cruise itinerary.
Upon our initial arrival in Egypt, we continued that afternoon to Luxor, spent the next day touring and stayed in the Al Moudira. Nour El Nil also operates a lovely bohemian-style 15-room guest house near Luxor, called Beit Sabée, which you’ll want to consider for your nights in Luxor.
This felt rushed; if you have the time, I would recommend spending three nights before the cruise (one in Cairo and two in Luxor).
After the cruise, we spent the day in Aswan visiting the sites and touring a Nubian village with a stay at the elegant Sofitel Legend Old Cataract.
Finally, we flew from Aswan back to Cairo, and toured in Cairo for three nights, staying at the Mena Marriott Hotel, a great respite from hectic Cairo with views of the Giza pyramids and a lovely pool.
What a view! Cairo’s Marriott Mena House hotel. * Image: Marriott Mena House Facebook Page
Interested in this Nile River cruise?
Depending on the boat you choose, Nour El Nil’s 5-night cruise starts at $1,398 per person and includes excursions.
And 5-night trips on the Adelaïde begin at $2,507 per person.
Contact Nour EL Nil at www.nourelnil.com.
Here’s what’s included on a Nour El Nil Nile River cruise
- Transfer from your Luxor hotel (not the airport) to the boats (in Esna)
- Entrance fee to the five sites visited en route
- Official Egyptian guide: in language requested by traveling group
- All meals, snacks and non-alcoholic beverages throughout trip
- Transfer from the boat to passengers’ (mainland) Aswan hotel
And what’s not included
- Beer, wine (white & red) and liquor
- Tips to the crew and guide at the end of the trip
- Transfer from the boat to Aswan Airport
Full Charters
Nour El Nil is available for private full charters by family and friend groups.
Get in touch with the office directly for more information.
Getting to your Nile River Cruise
Depending on your airline, many flights to Luxor connect through Cairo.
Departure city for the boat tour is Esna, 33 miles south of Luxor.
Weather on a Nile River Cruise
- Egypt has a sub-tropical desert climate with year-round warmth. For more comfortable temperatures and blue skies, the best time to focus on a Nile river cruise is October through April.
- Evenings during these months can get cool and a jacket or throw is recommended.
- During summer months the temperature can reach 104°F (40° C ) and the lack of shade off the boat can make this a problem for those who struggle in high heat.
- Whatever month you travel, make sure to pack plenty of sunscreen and a hat.
Cooler evening temps & sunset on the Nile River, aboard the Adelaide. * Photo: Alison Abbott
Things to Know Before You Go
- The guests on board were a well traveled mix of Americans and Europeans. Guides can be arranged for non-english speakers. Private guides can be arranged ahead as well.
- All meals are served family style with an abundance of dishes at every meal. As a pescatarian, a freshly caught fish was prepared for me daily.
- A visa is needed for US citizens into Egypt. It can currently be obtained on arrival at the airport.
- Egyptian and Nile authorities can make last minute schedule changes which can alter the itinerary.
- Wifi is available on board but spotty in many locations. Connectivity is best by the larger city locations.
- The itinerary for much of the onshore activities involves walking in dusty areas or sandy trails. Bring appropriate footwear with good treads. Covered toe if you don’t want to deal with the sand.
- While there is not an “official” laundry on the boat, there is a small washing machine where laundry can be done as a courtesy and dried in the sun. A small tip is suggested for the crew member that does this.
- Water levels vary season to season; when water levels are too low, the itinerary maybe slightly adjusted.
Why Go?
I highly recommend Nour El Nil if you’re looking for an intimate trip down the Nile in a luxury setting with a real sense of place.
This is responsible travel at its best, flavored with a deep, boho aesthetic.
Until next time. The author on the deck of the Adelaide. * Photo: Alison Abbott
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HEIDI SARNA
