Liveaboard Dewi Nusantara

Luxury Liveaboard Dive Schooner Dewi Nusantara Review

by Jerrol Golden

I admit it took a Google search to locate Cenderawasih Bay, West Papua, Indonesia, as it’s pretty much out in the middle of nowhere and takes effort to get there (at least from the USA).

Indonesia is a vast archipelago made up of more than 17,000 islands and covering around 3,200 miles. It’s an ideal part of the world to travel by boat, ship and various sailing vessels like schooners and the region’s traditional pinisi.

Cenderawasih Bay is just east of the famous Raja Ampat islands; both are renowned diving spots in the heart of the coral triangle. It’s said that some 75% of the world’s known coral species are found here along with some 2,000 species of fish.

The diving areas in Indonesia the Dewi Nusantara offers, including Cenderawasih Bay. * Map: Dewi Nusantara

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In August (2022), it took us four flights to get to the thriving airport in Manokwari, in West Papua, Indonesia.

The Manokwari Airport. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Nearby, the 18-passenger three-masted Dewi Nusantara (Dewi) ship awaits us as the home base for our 10-night dive adventure.

Arriving to the Dewi Nusantara. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

The hot humid Indonesian climate and tropical ocean landscape offers 86-degree water that beckons a scuba diver to go discover this unique marine park. But most importantly, we are here at the request of my diving enthusiast husband, Larry, to celebrate his 60th birthday.

It’s important to point out that a liveaboard dive boat is all about diving and the underwater world; very unlike traditional ocean cruises that focus on ports of call and land tours.

What is a liveaboard dive boat? It’s a multi-day adventure cruise on a small ship or sailing vessel single-mindedly focused on diving. Typically a liveaboard boat will carry no more than 16 to 18 passengers and each day (and nights too) will be spent diving, often in very remote places all over the world. You sleep in cabins on the boat and dine on board as well — you “live” aboard the boat. The crew includes dive experts who guide passengers on several dives each day.

Larry and I add-on a five-day stop at a lovely boutique resort, Siladen, located near Manado to chill.

Another guest added on sightseeing at Borobudur near Yogyakarta, on the island of Java, Indonesia. Lots of fantastic land options for consideration before heading to the boat or after.

The famous Borobudur Buddhist temple dates from the 8th and 9th centuries. * Photo: Heidi Sarna

The Daily Dewi Nusantara Liveaboard Experience

Ding ding ding, the bell rings for a dive briefing around 7:30 am, a must before every dive. Suit up and transfer by tender to the first dive site.

dive briefing by Jan aboard Dewi Nusantara

The dive briefing by Jan. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

All your dive gear is already on board the tenders. Divers just show up and blow bubbles!

Four of us are partnered with dive master Steven and follow his lead. First dive is a check-out ‘muck’ dive to test our buoyancy, comfort level, and equipment. Muck diving is all about small creatures such as bobtail squid and flounder that live in the sandy bottom and scattered reefs.

After 60 minutes of dive time, we tender back to the Dewi for a made-to-order breakfast. After every dive a short neck and shoulder massage is offered by Didi and Ringgo to relieve any muscle stress you may encounter from your dive.

Time for dive two at a new location, this time a wall dive site called Nenek Point which offers beautiful soft and staghorn coral, lots of colorful nudibranch, clown triggerfish and redstripe anthias.

There are also endemic species of fishes only found in Cenderawasih such as flame dottyback, demoiselle, and long-nosed butterflyfish that we are fortunate to witness.

In general, there are more small colorful fishes than larger, pelagic (open ocean) species.

Break for Lunch

Back on the mothership, Dewi Nusantara, it’s lunch time!

Today features Asian delights including Indonesian chicken soup (soto ayam), fresh snapper, tempeh, beef satay, rice cooked in a banana leaf, fresh sauteed water spinach, a tropical fruit plate and chilled ginger tea.

The Asian lunch spread on Dewi Nusantara

Larry is happy about the Asian lunch spread. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Rest, and again at 2:45 pm, it’s dive time at another site.

Back onboard the ship, my niece gets a massage and my husband and I read for a while, followed by a game of dominos.

Other guests are on the upper deck enjoying the views of lush islands and a small village with homes built on stilts over the water.

Time for a Night Dive!

It’s now 6:00 pm, time for a night dive! Creatures that don’t like the day light come out at night.

Sounds ominous but it’s pretty darn cool as you shine your light on coconut octopus, broadclub cuttlefish and the very alien looking bobbit worm that can grow up to three meters.

Night diving offers a more focused dive since you can only see what’s directly in front of your dive light.

The night dive vibe. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Well Deserved Dinner

Tonight’s full-service dinner features squash bisque, green salad, roast duck and potatoes, and panna cotta for dessert, accompanied by a glass of wine. It’s deliciously flavorful.

The dinner menu. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Fellow guests onboard are Brits who live in Singapore (and as chance would have it, they are part owners of the Dewi!) and the rest of us from various cities across the USA. (The owners tell us Americans make up about 65% of guests; the next biggest group are typically Brits followed by Germans and other Europeans.)

Dewi Nusantara owners Eira & Simon Day. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Everyone has an interesting story to share, which makes for great conversation.

Tonight, the sky cleared up and it’s pitch dark. No light pollution, just stars, the Milky Way, and a waning moon.

Larry and I head to the hammocks on the upper forward deck and gaze at the stars for hours. Life is bliss.

Jerrol chilling on a hammock on deck. * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

In fact, most folks disappear after dinner to read, star gaze, watch a movie or sleep. Remember, a liveaboard is about diving first, not staying up late or drinking into the wee hours!

The Whole Week

The dive sites are varied throughout the next nine days.

One of my and Larry’s top favorites dive sites on this adventure, Silver Lining, was a total aquarium dive and featured a tasselled wobbegong (shark family), which is one of the strangest prehistoric looking creatures I’ve seen; comical to say the least.

Diving on Liveaboard Dive Schooner Dewi Nusantara

A tasselled wobbegong. * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

Schools of fishes are everywhere with my favorite being sweetlips with bright yellow and black stripes.

sweetlips bannerfish on a Dewi Nusantara cruise

A school of sweetlips bannerfish. * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

Larry is jazzed about seeing a pygmy seahorse, the size of your pinky fingernail. Good grief, you need a magnifying glass to view this tiny creature.

A tiny pygmy sea horse (yes, it’s a fish). * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

The Birthday Celebration!

Turning 60 in our family requires special recognition. An underwater photo is taken while Larry holds a 60th birthday sign.

Happy Birthday Larry! * Photo: Sarah Coombs

At dinner Larry is donned by a crown and LED string of lights and the crew shows up wearing wonderfully goofy shiny t-shirts and wigs, and they sing and dance. Of course there’s the obligatory cake and toasts. Larry is in one of his happy places.

VIDEO: Have a look at the happy birthday evening below! “Blow out the candles!”

Whale Shark, Whale Shark, Whale Shark

Cenderawasih is also known for whale sharks in July and August, which is another reason we picked this itinerary. The largest fish species in the world is a gentle giant. We both snorkel and dive with three of them for hours watching as they inhale small fish and plankton through their HUGE mouth.

The whale sharks grace us by coming within inches of us and gently passing by with one wag of their giant tail fin.

One guest got bopped by the tail which took him by surprise! So beautiful and surreal.

A whale shark up close! * Photo: Sarah Coombs

A Little Background about Dewi Nusantara

Dewi Nusantara means ‘Goddess of the Archipelago.’

This 180-foot boutique luxury vessel offers warm and welcoming local Indonesian staff who make all guests feel at ease. Chief Steward Hendrik masterfully orchestrates a seamless onboard experience. We meet several guests that have returned to the Dewi 10 to 24 times, so there are seriously devout fans, and for good reason.

This one-of-a-kind boat was built in 2007 based on an early 19th-century schooner that sailed up and down the St. Lawrence River between Canada and United States.

Built out of iron wood in Kalimantan (Borneo), the spacious Dewi accommodates 18 guests, has a crew of 23, and delivers on all aspects from outstanding service and cuisine to well-appointed cabins and concierge diving that will spoil you for life.

A few stats on Dewi Nusantara:

The wooden schooner is 180 feet long; 148 feet over deck
with a 12-foot draft
and a 27-foot beam
cruising speed is 8 knots
she’s got 3 masts and 9 sails, though they’re mostly for show and not for powering the yacht
Dewi has a pair of 500 HP Nissan twin turbo diesel engines
the owners say Dewi Nusantara is the largest wooden liveaboard dive boat in South East Asia
the average mileage covered in a 10-night cruise is about 350 to 500 miles (600 to 800 kms)

Each of the nine air-conditioned cabins is en-suite, and beds can be configured as twins or a doubles. There are reading lights, power outlets, and a desk and chair.

The Master Suite. * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

VIDEO: Jerrol gives us a tour below of the Master Suite on Dewi Nusantara & tells us her favorite part!

https://youtube.com/shorts/STqJyEZeMYw?feature=share

Why Go on Dewi Nusantara?

Dewi Nusantara offers 27 trips a year to incredible and remote dive regions and sites throughout Indonesia. Their diving practices are top notch.

Offering five dive masters for 18 guests, whether you are a new or experienced diver, you are well taken of, and safety comes first.

The dive masters have eagle eyes and have a knack for finding the craziest small creatures such as a juvenile painted frogfish, leaf scorpion fish and ornate ghost pipefish.

Guests can expect service with a smile as the vessel’s staff is all about delighting guests. Many of the staff have worked onboard the Dewi for 10-plus years, and several since the boat’s first dive trip back in 2008.

Happy crew, happy guests. You will feel at home.

We’re already planning our next trip.

Jerrol, Larry & their family on Dewi Nusantara i

Jerrol, Larry & their family. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Dewi Nusantara is owned by a small group of investors who love to dive.

The boat goes in for an annual drydock so it’s well taken of, which is key given the remote areas where the boat sails.

Where Else I Have Gone Diving?

I have dove all over the world including Palau, Fiji, Roatan (Honduras), Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, Belize, Bonaire, Cozumel, Curaçao, three locations in the Philippines, Bali, Gili Trawangen (near Lombok), Komodo and Flores (Indonesia), Raja Ampat (with Dewi Nusantara) and more.

Giant Potato Cod in the Great Barrier Reef

Jerrol diving in Australia’s Great Barrier Reef & getting up close & personal with a Giant Potato Cod! * Photo: Jerrol Golden

Jerrol diving near a shark in Palau. * Photo: Jerrol Golden

For my taste I believe Raja Ampat and Cenderawasih offer some of the best diving in the world for diversity, fish and coral life, and remoteness. Can’t beat it.

Diving in Raja Ampat. * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

Dewi Nusantara Fast Facts

Itineraries

The Dewi Nusantara sails four dates in Cenderawasih, about 16 trips in Raja Ampat, and several one-off itineraries throughout remote areas of Indonesia such as Ambon, The Forgotten Islands, Triton Bay, Halmahera, Alor and Banda Sea.

Dewi Nusantara Rates & Inclusions

The 10-night Cenderawasih voyage we experienced, round-trip from Manokwari, West Papua (some sailings are between Manokwari and Sorong), starts at $6,839 per person plus park and harbor fees, and includes:

all transfers
diving
meals
nonalcoholic beverages
local beer & one complimentary glass of wine with dinner each night (you can purchase additional glasses of wine or a bottle, but don’t expect a robust wine list, as the home port is Sorong in West Papua, so choices re limited)

Guests get a trip report after each cruise that shows the route, fish sightings, photos, videos & more. Here’s the map from a recent Cenderawasih Bay cruise route. * Map: Dewi Nusantara

Additional Costs Include:

nitrox gas (vs air)
diving gear rental
alcohol
gratuities for the most excellent staff (10% of fare suggested)
airfare

Full Charters of the Dewi Nusantara

Full charters are available (though most cruises are not private charters); inquire directly with Dewi Nusantara.

Getting There

Depending on your airline, many US flights to Manokwari, West Papua, connect through Jakarta and Bali.

Useful Tips

There is one Master Cabin on the liveaboard dive schooner Dewi Nusantara and eight deluxe cabins with portholes. Plan at least 20 months in advance as the Dewi books out.
There is year-round diving in the waters around West Papua, with the best months for a liveaboard dive cruise considered October – April, when there is generally less rain and the calmest seas…however, Dewi only does the Cenderawasih Bay route in the summer, during the months when the whale sharks are out in force. We had a couple of cool rainstorms on our August sailing that we all loved! Overall, the weather was pretty darn good.
Four dives are typically offered per day: two morning, one afternoon and one night dive. Do one or two or dive them all. Your choice.
There are also snorkel opportunities in a few places if you don’t feel like diving.
The food is varied, and plant-based diets and vegetarians can be easily accommodated.
You may have occasional wind, but we experienced very smooth seas, with Dewi Nusantara sailing at prime times in each region.
You may bring one liter of alcohol onboard, per person.
Bring a yoga mat if you are so inclined as there is ample space to get in a good stretch.
Bring four bathing suits so you always have a dry one to change into.
Follow the Dewi online via Facebook and Instagram page.

One of the 8 Deluxe Cabins on Dewi Nusantara

One of the 8 Deluxe Cabins. * Photo: Dewi Nusantara

Money Matters

The Indonesian Rupiah is the official currency; US dollars and credit cards are accepted.

Interested in This Cruise?

Contact Dewi Nusantara at www.dewi-nusantara.com.

The Final Word on Dewi Nusantara

It takes many flights to get to the Dewi Nusantara liveaboard cruise and as a luxury product and experience, expect a higher price point.

But even so, it’s very worth it!

I whole-heartedly recommend our 10-night liveaboard Dewi Nusantara adventure for serious divers looking for a concierge dive experience in exotic waters that still boast pristine reef conditions and loads of fishes.