Sea Cloud Spirit Review — An Elegant Caribbean Adventure Under Sail

Sea Cloud Spirit Review

By Anne Kalosh, with select images and videos by Peter Knego

On the gorgeous tall ship Sea Cloud Spirit, I found the Caribbean of my dreams. Under 44,132 square feet/4,100 square meters of billowing sails, I discovered gems of the Lesser Antilles in all their glory.

At each harbor we visited, our three-masted, square-rigged windjammer was the biggest and most beautiful yacht, drawing admiring looks from everyone.

We visited:

• Tiny, French chic Terre-de-Haut in the Iles des Saintes (part of Guadeloupe);
• Stunning Soufrière, St. Lucia with its towering pitons, botanical gardens and drive-in volcano;
• Tobago Cays, a pristine marine park;
• Chatham Bay, a yacht harbor on Union Island in St. Vincent and the Grenadines;
• Colorful Port Elizabeth, Bequia, also in the Grenadines;
• And lush Cabrits, Dominica, where I saw more rainbows in a day than in the rest of my entire life.

It was a sophisticated yet casual experience on a luxuriously quirky ship.

Sea Cloud Spirit‘s daily rates, starting at about $850 with port charges, drinks and tips included, put it squarely in the luxury realm. (Current wave-season booking offers reduce the starting fare on some sailings to about $700 a day.)

The accommodations are glam, though suites aren’t as large as on luxury ocean ships. The dining offers many luxe and locally sourced ingredients, but is not as refined as, say, Silversea’s or Seabourn’s.

Over eight nights on the spacious Sea Cloud Spirit, at times I felt like I was on my own yacht. With just 55 passengers on a vessel with capacity for 136, it was always easy to find a deck chair, Balinese bed, a selection of dining tables (dining is open seating) and a bar stool.

I’ve found that early December is a great time to cruise as most ships are less crowded between the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays, so that can mean savings on fares, and airfares tend to be more affordable, too.

Plus, I had the pleasure of sailing with fellow QuirkyCruise contributor and maritime historian Peter Knego who, like me, has been enchanted with Sea Cloud Cruises’ namesake ship, Sea Cloud, for years.

VIDEOS: Peter has documented the historic ship Sea Cloud in a pair of videos I highly recommend.

Peter Knego & Anne Kalosh on the beach. * Photo: Mike Masino

A Bit Of History

Sea Cloud was built in 1931 as Hussar for the millionaires E. F. Hutton and Marjorie Merriweather Post as the world’s largest private sailing yacht. Its storied history includes serving as a diplomatic yacht in Leningrad, a World War II U.S. Coast Guard vessel and a party boat for the Dominican Republic dictator Rafael Trujillo’s playboy son.

And that’s just a fraction of the tale. Check out Peter’s videos for more and please do subscribe to his YouTube channel.

Restored and updated for new safety regulations, the 64-passenger Sea Cloud now sails for Hamburg, Germany-based Sea Cloud Cruises, which recently opened a North American office in Fort Lauderdale, Florida. The fleet also consists of the 94-passenger Sea Cloud II, built in 2001, and the 136-passenger Sea Cloud Spirit, built in 2021.

The 136-pax Sea Cloud Spirit. * Photo: Peter Knego

Americans have always been able to book Sea Cloud. But now, thanks to the U.S. office with its dedicated leadership, they’ll be hearing more about this traditionally German brand which aims to carry 40 percent North Americans in 2024.

RELATED: Anne reports that Sea Cloud Cruises sails into the US market.

To do that, the U.S.-based team is developing a lifestyle product, according to Kevin Smith, vice president of North American sales. This means a focus on wellness, culinary and history, with guest chefs and lecturers in these areas.

For example, Florida icons Cindy Hutson, a chef known for her “cuisine of the sun” through Ortanique in Miami’s Coral Gables, and historian/New York Times best-selling author Les Standiford will be aboard Sea Cloud Spirit cruises in early 2024.

All cruises are bilingual (German and English) with printed materials, announcements and lectures in both languages. The international crew are English-speaking.

While I’d love to sail on the original Sea Cloud, it’s in heavy demand and often booked well in advance. Sea Cloud Spirit is also lovely and has more space available.

According to Peter, who knows both ships, Sea Cloud’s standard rebuilt accommodations — not the original suites, which are in a class unto themselves — are similarly appointed but much smaller than the ones aboard Sea Cloud Spirit, while Sea Cloud’s food, in his experience, is a cut above, truly gourmet.

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Why Sail On A Tall Ship?

The focus is on the great outdoors, the wind, weather and stars, and the mechanics of the ship — the sails, the masts, the rigging. It’s quiet and vibration-free without the engines. You feel the motion and the heel of the vessel.

It’s fascinating and a little scary to watch the sailors climb high in the rigging, and simply awesome when the sails unfurl and catch the wind. Meanwhile, crew on deck are hauling the lines with winches as they trim the sails.

Sailors hauling the lines with winches. * Photo: Peter Knego

The tidy lines secured on pegs. * Photo: Peter Knego

You watch them tie the hitches to secure the lines and the meticulous way they coil the lines so they’re tidy and ready to use again. Some of the ropes are arranged like artwork.

You don’t have to know anything about sailing, but you can learn from watching. And on Sea Cloud Spirit, the captain explained the basics in his opening briefing and the chief officer stood on deck with a microphone, narrating the first hoisting of the sails.

There is nothing like the moment the sails take over — it’s both a hush and a rush of wind that’s exhilarating.

Sea Cloud Spirit uses a mix of engine and sail power, with the line aspiring to offer about two full days under sail per cruise.

On my trip, we had two sea days, both under sail, and portions of many more. An announcement was made when the sails were coming up or going down to alert anyone who wanted to watch.

The Deck Plan

Sea Cloud Spirit has four decks. Starting from the top:

Sun Deck holds lounge chairs and Balinese beds.

The lovely Sun Deck. * Photo: Peter Knego

This is the best vantage point for watching the crew raising and lowering the sails and relaxing with a book.

There’s also a small indoor gym with cardio equipment, free weights and gorgeous views.

The gym is impressive for a small ship. * Photo: Peter Knego

The bridge is here, too, and Sea Cloud Spirit has an open bridge policy; it’s fine to visit if the door is open.

The Sea Cloud Spirit’s lovely curved lines, including here by the bridge. * Photo: Peter Knego

Lido Deck holds the Lido Bar & Bistro, a mostly tented outdoor area aft that’s the heart and soul of the ship.

When it rains, the crew zip a plastic cover around the sides.

A light early risers’ and late risers’ breakfast is laid out in the buffet area, which also holds a spread for afternoon teatime, and a self-serve coffee machine, along with a selection of fine teas.

Lunches and most dinners are here, and there’s a dance floor and a DJ’s booth. If you don’t count star-gazing, music on deck forms the only nighttime entertainment, and sometimes people dance.

Just inside, midships, is an elegant lounge with polished woods, brass-trimmed windows and sturdy furniture. On my cruise it was used for the captain’s talk (he outlined our course and the weather forecast and explained how the ship is sailed), the cruise director’s briefings and lectures by two guest speakers on topics ranging from Caribbean history and people to birds (in German and in English).

There’s a Steinway piano, a corner with board games and a coffee/tea/light snacks station.

The elegant lounge with polished woods and brass-trimmed windows. * Photo: Peter Knego

Seven Category C deluxe outside lido cabins, which have big windows that open, are located forward on a corridor leading to a little gem of a library with views over the forecastle. Books in German and English are available.

Sea Cloud Spirit’s library. * Photo: Peter Knego

Verandah Deck is where passengers enter and leave the ship from a gangway to shore, the covered tenders or Zodiacs. The door is at midships, steps from the reception desk.

The poshest accommodations are found on Verandah Deck. Three Category A suites with balcony and 22 Category B junior suites with balcony take up the forward three-quarters of the deck.

Buffet breakfast is served in the elegant restaurant, aft. On my cruise, the only nights we dined indoors were for the captain’s welcome and farewell dinners.

Cabin Deck holds the 26 Category D deluxe outside cabins, the nine Category E superior outside cabins and the two Category F superior outside single cabins. All these accommodations have portholes instead of large windows.

Aft is the surprisingly ample spa with its two treatment rooms, a relaxation room, Finnish sauna, steam bath, foot bath, showers and hair dressing room.

The ample spa. * Photo: Peter Knego

A door leads to the swim platform. When weather permits, passengers typically get a chance to swim in the sea; this wasn’t offered on my cruise.

The ship’s boutique and hospital are also found on Cabin Deck.

An elevator serves all four decks.

Dining Aboard Sea Cloud Spirit

Hotel Manager Elias Stamatopoulos from Greece told me he sources fresh fruits, vegetables and fish in the Caribbean. During my cruise, he bought about 120 kilograms/265 pounds of fresh-caught wahoo, mahi mahi and red snapper, and 120 kilos of lobster.

Some of the international cheese selection came from a shop in Dutch St. Maarten.

The restaurant’s breakfast buffet has fresh fruit like papaya and pineapple, cold and hot cereals, yogurts, cheeses, cold cuts and a selection of breads, croissants and pastries, all baked on board and very good. Eggs, sausages, bacon and made-to-order omelets are available.

Our captain’s welcome and farewell dinners in the restaurant featured luxe fare.

The indoor main restaurant. * Photo: Peter Knego

For welcome night, that included a tiger prawns appetizer, lobster bisque, peach sorbet with Champagne and a choice of main courses: rack of veal, pepper-crusted tuna or spinach and cheese ravioli.

A sizable rack of veal * Photo: Peter Knego

Lobster was served. * Photo: Peter Knego

Dessert was creme brulee with berries or a cheese selection. My fellow diners raved about the veal.

Otherwise, all meals took place on the Lido Deck, with lunch typically a grander, more expansive spread than dinner.

Peter and Anne toasting at the White Night Dinner on Lido Deck. * Photo: Mike Masino

The lunch buffet always included a station for made-to-order salads, a soup of the day, a hot station for carved meats and seafood or fish.

Plus, there was a selection of hot and cold salads and entrees such as tacos with pulled pork, smoked fish, gratinated broccoli, seafood and mango salad, parsley potatoes, meatballs, grilled shrimp, tomato caprese, apple-celery salad, carrot-ginger salad, fried veal, shrimp curry, vegetable couscous and beet goulash.

Buffet lunch on deck. * Photo: Peter Knego

Lunch desserts always included two ice creams and other choices such as pineapple upside down cake or apple crumble.

Dinners were buffet-style or a la carte. One buffet included pigs in a blanket, mussels in white wine, cheese quesadillas, Waldorf salad, cucumber-herbs salad, garden greens, tomato-onion salad, white asparagus soup, rack of lamb, grilled wahoo, mushroom risotto, steamed vegetables, herbed potatoes and vanilla passion fruit panna cotta for dessert.

The food currently leans toward hearty, especially at lunch. But that is changing in an effort to appeal more to American preferences. So, going forward, instead of a giant slab of Tomahawk ribeye in the carving station at the Lido buffet, as on my cruise, that carnivore’s delight may instead be served family-style, delicately sliced, at dinner in the restaurant.

More indoor dining is in the cards, too.

A selection of (included) red and white wines were generously poured at lunch and dinner, with Italian, French, Portuguese and Greek selections among them. Beers and soft drinks were included at meals, too.

There is no room service.

Accommodations On Sea Cloud Spirit

With the Marjorie Merriweather Post Sea Cloud pedigree, the accommodations really stand out as elegant and well-appointed. Almost half the 69 rooms have balconies or big arched windows. Those on the Cabin Deck have portholes.

A cabin with portholes. * Photo: Peter Knego

Accommodations range from 140 square feet to 301 square feet, plus balcony.

All have a similar, elegant style, with eggshell-colored walls, glossy, burnt-caramel-colored woods and cabinetry, fabrics in burnt orange, gold or beige and carpets of nautical blue, burnt orange or beige. They are bright with natural light and have plenty of lamps, reading lights and sconces to create a nice mood after dark.

The rooms are graced by Hamburg artist Heinke Boehnert’s paintings that depict sailing themes and incorporate bits of actual used sailcloth.

All accommodations have a welcome bottle of Champagne; Sea Cloud Spirit bathrobes, slippers and towels; L’Occitane en Provence toiletries, a Krups coffee maker, mini-fridge stocked with sodas and juices, fruit basket, safe, hand-held hair dryer, umbrellas and reusable, take-home water bottle.

A bottle of champagne awaits in the cabin. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

Shower cabinets are standard, with Category A and B suites and junior suites equipped with bubble tubs.

Cabin Categories Aboard Sea Cloud Spirit

For a look at each stateroom category, go to SeaCloud.com and click on Sea Cloud Spirit then choose the “Cabins” tab and “360° Tour.” Note that some rooms in the same category may have different configurations. Mine had a walk-in closet while friends down the hall in 323 had a room with the closets lined against one wall.

On the deck plans at the “Cabins” tab, if you click on a stateroom you can see the specifics.

My junior suite, #332, was on Verandah Deck. A Category B, it measured about 237 square feet plus a long balcony of 65 square feet with two deck chairs and a small table.

A junior suite with balcony. * Photo: Peter Knego

Category B balcony. * Photo: Peter Knego

It exceeded my expectations with big, arched windows, polished woods, fluffy duvets, a seating area, a vanity, walk-in closet and a marble bathroom with a bubble tub, hand-held shower, gold-plated sink and taps (Marjorie Merriweather Post’s swan-shaped gold-plated taps on the original Sea Cloud were a hallmark), lighted magnifying mirror and a white rose. (Note, not all Sea Cloud Spirit cabin bathrooms have the gold-plated sinks.)

The bathroom of a Category B junior suite, with gold-plated sink. * Photo: Peter Knego

The narrow vanity had one 220-volt outlet and two USB ports. (If you’re from the U.S., take a 220-plug/adapter.) Elsewhere around the room, I found only 220 plugs.

A glossy dark-wood console held a flat-screen LG TV that can be pulled out and turned to watch in bed or on the sofa, the mini-fridge, coffee maker and bottles of water that were refilled.

A pull-out, leather-topped writing desk with Sea Cloud Spirit post cards and stationery was a classy touch; the reception desk will mail items and bill the postage to your account.

I opted for a printed daily program and newspaper, but for those who choose to receive these electronically, there’s a QR code for 1 GB of free Wi-Fi.

VIDEO: A tour of my junior suite (the part about my suite begins at 11:15); video by Peter Knego and moi.

Sea Cloud Spirit Review — A Day-By-Day Recap

Day 1 — Sailing from Philipsburg, St. Maarten

When I arrived at Port Saint Maarten, it was exciting to spot Sea Cloud Spirit’s tall masts towering over the big cruise ships.

Under a little canopy just steps from the gangway, bottles of Champagne were chilling in a big bucket of ice. I handed over my passport, had my picture taken for security, was given a glass of Champagne and walked on board. Now that’s QuirkyCruise style!

Champagne served at the gangway! * Photo: Peter Knego

We were all served by 88 international crew and almost immediately, everyone seemed to know my name, starting with our dynamo Cruise Director Sabine Valdes from Austria. My cabin steward, Ferdinand from the Philippines, was dressed in a powder blue bow tie and greeted me warmly.

This feeling of being a special, valued traveler, not just a number among thousands, is another reason I love small-ship cruising.

After lifeboat drill, there was a sail-away cocktail at 7 p.m. before our first Lido Deck dinner buffet.

Day 2 — At Sea

The ship was moving this first morning out and passengers staggered around, getting our sea legs. I dashed up to the Lido Deck to punch in a caffe macchiato on the espresso machine, then brought a plate with fresh papaya, yogurt and a scoop of scrambled eggs from the restaurant back to my room.

Sabine’s announcement summoned us to the Sun Deck to see the sails raised for the first time. It was awe-inspiring to watch the crew bravely scramble up the masts and intently follow commands like “Make that line straight!” The full operation took almost an hour.

The sailors unfurling the canvas. * Photo: Peter Knego

Anne watching the sails go up. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

It was a magical moment to see Sea Cloud Spirit dressed in all her sails and to feel the movement.

Shortly after, at his briefing in the lounge, Capt. Vukota Stojanovic from Montenegro said we’d reached 10.5 knots, a good clip, and that would be our top speed under sail, for safety.

He gave a great explanation of how the ship is sailed and detailed the week’s weather forecast. He said to expect patches of rain. And that’s what we got. But in the tropics, they were quick drenches that blew in fast and blew out just as quickly, bringing rainbows — so many rainbows! — then blue sky.

There was no shortage of stunning rainbows. * Photo: Peter Knego

At lunch in the Lido I enjoyed eggplant parmesan, a big salad and walnut ice cream. The hotel manager was carving thin slices from a a big leg of belota (acorn-fed) Ibérico ham and pointed out it was a Spanish-themed lunch, with the hot station featuring a big pan of paella.

Now there’s a heap of paella! * Photo: Peter Knego

We returned to the Lido for the captain’s welcome party, where the officers lined up in their formal uniforms and we were handed a glass of Champagne to toast with them. It was hot and sticky. Fortunately we dined inside that night.

As a vegetarian, I had only the palate-cleansing sorbet course, which was drenched in Champagne, and a very creamy ravioli dish.

Day 3 — Terre-de-Haut, Iles des Saintes (Guadeloupe)

When I opened my door this morning, I found a chocolate Santa inside a slipper, and realized it was Dec. 6, St. Nicholas Day, as commemorated on this German ship.

I was really excited about returning to Les Saintes, a tiny, charming place I’d visited years ago on a Windstar cruise, when the chef went ashore to purchase baguettes. In the 10 a.m. tender, I met Sea Cloud Spirit’s hotel manager who also had a shopping list.

We were anchored in a gorgeous yacht harbor near another small cruise ship, the motor yacht Emerald Azzurra.

One of our ship’s lecturers led a hike up the hill to the 19th-century Fort Napoleon, which now contains a small museum and gardens.

Instead, I meandered with a friend along the narrow lane lining the shore, admiring the white frangipani, the pastel houses, many with boats out back on the water, and the little French boutiques with colorful fashions and jewelry. Inside the small grocery store with a vast French wine selection, we ran into the hotel manager buying lettuce, yogurt, tomatoes and cheese.

At a waterfront bar with three tables, my friend invited me for a drink. It was 11:30 a.m. and I knew I was in a vacation frame of mind when I said yes to a “Planteur,” the best planter’s punch I’ve ever tasted. My friend had a passionfruit mojito.

At a little waterfront bar in Terre-de-Haut, this woman made me the best planter’s punch I’ve ever tasted. For the record, I had one, not three!. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

Back on board, lunch for me was a big salad with a little truffle oil (yum!) and pasta with red pepper flakes that the chef swirled in big wheel of Parmesan for lots of umami.

That afternoon, I watched the sails go up again, and visited Capt. Stojanovic on the bridge. He explained every instrument in this surprisingly high-tech bridge then brought out a wooden box and said guess what’s inside? It was a sextant.

Then it was down to the pristine engine room for a tour led by Chief Engineer Edgar Jan Schneider from Poland.

The engine room. * Photo: Peter Knego

Up on deck for dinner, it was very windy. My dining companions discussed why we didn’t dine more indoors.

Subsequently, I’ve been told more dinners are now inside.

Day 4 — Soufrière, St. Lucia

A spectacular day at beautiful St. Lucia. At 8 a.m. we were anchored in a harbor dwarfed by the island’s distinctive pitons. When the restaurant waiter brought my coffee, he pointed to one and said: “That’s where ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ was filmed.”

St Lucia’s stunning Pitons. * Photo: Peter Knego

I took the wonderful 3.5-hour tour (€65) that began with a stroll through the Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens & Mineral Baths, a leafy green dream of beautiful flowering plants, natural sulfur springs, hummingbirds and a waterfall.

Next we drove inside an active volcano, reeking of sulfur, where we observed steaming, bubbling mud.

And then we hiked up Tet Paul Trail, including a spur signposted “Stairway to Heaven,” for gorgeous vistas over the pitons.

Climbing the Stairway to Heaven in St. Lucia for a great view of the pitons. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

After our climb, refreshments were served: papaya, orange slices, coconut cake, saltfish fritters with banana-pepper sauce and sweetened lemon water.

In the afternoon, the ship’s Zodiacs dropped passengers at a beach for a couple hours but I opted to stay on board. All afternoon, yachts sailed by to admire and photograph Sea Cloud Spirit.

We were invited to dress in white for a White Night Party and one of the passengers, hilariously, came in his bathrobe. The Lido was decorated in white balloons and streamers, very festive. Bartender Anton made me a fabulous mai tai. I joined a long table, where we were treated to especially good wines from the premium list.

The menu consisted of gratinated scallops, chicken consommé, and a choice of roasted pork loin, seared sea bass or vegetable cordon bleu with baked Alaska for dessert.

After dinner, when DJ Guga from Brazil cranked up the disco tunes, we hit the floor. A really fun evening!

Day 5 — Tobago Cays And Also Chatham Bay on Union Island (St. Vincent and the Grenadines)

Friday in paradise. I was on deck early, greeted by a rainbow.

I took coffee and two flaky, buttery mini-croissants from the early riser’s spread to my room to get ready for a catamaran tour to Tobago Cays, a marine park (four hours, €69).

After we transferred to the catamaran, Sea Cloud Spirit continued on to Union Island, where we would meet up later.

During a couple hours ashore at Tobago Cays, we were free to enjoy this blissful spot with its white sand beaches, palm trees and a shack serving lobsters and beer.

Beautiful Tobago Cays. * Photo: Peter Knego

Snorkelers saw a sting ray and a sea snake. Sandpipers scurried in and out with the surf on a beach littered with conch shells. I swung on a tree swing and instantly felt carefree.

VIDEO: Peter and Anne swinging on Union Island.

I learned that fisherman here delivered a large haul of fish to Sea Cloud Spirit.

Back aboard the catamaran, we sailed past exclusive Palm Island and around Union Island, with its karsts that reminded me of the South Pacific. No wonder this is called the “Tahiti of the West Indies.”

The beach on Union Island. * Photo: Peter Knego

In Chatham Bay, Sea Cloud Spirit’s Zodiacs picked us up from the catamaran. An on-shore beach barbecue was already in full swing.

This was no casual picnic but an elaborately choreographed affair staged between two pavilions with a swimming pool in between. A group of Rastas played lilting steel pans and ship’s crew welcomed us with a glass of cold melon soup or rum punch. Lobster was the highlight of the barbecue for many. After the feast, we lolled on Balinese beds as the music played, with some savoring banana splits made with rum-soaked bananas and others dancing.

I strolled on the beach where giant terns dived for fish just offshore and little shacks advertised lobster and conch.

Day 6 — Port Elizabeth, Bequia (St. Vincent and the Grenadines)

Peter, his partner Mike and I caught the 10 a.m. tender to Port Elizabeth, zipping through the yacht marina to a pretty little pier. A small Silversea ship was also anchored offshore. A couple ferries were disgorging passengers.

Peter and I had memories of Bequia from years ago on separate visits but couldn’t quite get our bearings. We turned left and walked through a more residential part of town, some bits of it gritty, always in view of the water. Turning back, we stopped to photograph a colorful signpost to Oslo, Liverpool and other remote places, and a smiling man in a tropical shirt, Mychal, waved us up to see his garden of herbs, lemon grass and okra. A delightful encounter.

Signpost in colorful Bequia. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

We continued to the right side of the tender landing and found the beach path, Belmont Walkway, skirting the water and snaking past bars, restaurants and hotel lawns to pretty Princess Margaret Beach.

There wasn’t much time to make the last tender back to Sea Cloud Spirit at 1 p.m.

Back aboard we dashed up to the buffet, where other diners recommended the shrimp curry and the chilled coconut-peach soup. After a glass of rosé, I felt drowsy and everyone from my table retired to the Sun Deck to stretch out in the Balinese beds and watch the crew scurrying to put up the sails.

Sprinkles came and a small rainbow popped out just 50 yards away in the water, the closest I have ever been to a rainbow.

Back in my room, I luxuriated in the bubble tub before dinner. At the Lido Bar, Anton made me a drink he created, Blue Moon, with blue Curaçao. It was beautiful, in a martini glass with a glass stirrer.

The Lido Bar. * Photo: Peter Knego

Meanwhile, a chef began dissecting a giant fish, that was prepared before our eyes, both raw in ceviche and seared on the grill.

A chef made quick work of this freshly caught fish for a deck buffet. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

It was sea shanty night and Sabine and others in the crew choir appeared in sailor costumes and hats, passing out songbooks. We all joined in and that led to another lively night of dancing on deck.

Day 7 — Cabrits, Dominica

On this Sunday morning I thought we could sleep in as brunch was set for 10:30 but Sabine announced a special surprise: We’d be going out in Zodiacs for a spin around Sea Cloud Spirit, decked out in her full, 28-sail plumage.

Sea Cloud Spirit under full sail. * Photo: Peter Knego

Meanwhile, I was amazed by a flat rainbow on the horizon, a rare phenomenon called a circumhorizontal arc.

A special rainbow, called a circumhorizontal arc. * Photo: Peter Knego

Although we had plenty of Sea Cloud Spirit views when tendering in port, this circumnavigation let us admire the great beauty from all angles and up close — we rounded the powerful, jutting bowsprit decorated with Sea Cloud’s characteristic golden eagle and the clipper stern, which dramatically swoops inward.

It is breathtaking.

On board, we had the chance to be photographed one by one standing near the bowsprit from a photographer in a Zodiac.

And then the lavish Sunday brunch was served. Along with breakfast items there was sushi, salt-crusted salmon, huge tomahawk ribeye steaks from the grill, a cheesy vegetable lasagna, a salad bar and a waffle station with ice cream, whipped cream and sprinkles. And mimosas.

Afterward, I went to the pretty library and was delighted to find Peter. We watched the crew, wearing rain slickers in a sudden downpour, working on the forecastle.

Minutes later, a glorious golden light broke out over the green hills of Dominica. It was quite a maneuver to dock at the Cabrits pier on a very windy day. We reversed and came in stern first. Aft on the Lido, I watched a rainbow pop out, intensifying and doubling.

Dominica would be festooned in rainbows all afternoon.

Peter, Mike and I paid $5 each at a snack bar off the pier for entrance to the historic Fort Shirley grounds.

Sea Cloud Spirit from Fort Shirley, an easy climb up the hill at Cabrits, Dominica. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

As we climbed a cobblestone path through the woods, a herd of goats came down — fitting, since Cabrits means “goats.”

It was fitting to see goats coming down the road in Cabrits, which means -goats. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

During dinner, a local duo came aboard to play music in the Lido before we cast off at 10:30 p.m.

Day 7 — At Sea

Suddenly it was our last day on board, with a scramble of tasks like packing and settling accounts. We were under sail and rolling quite a bit, often heeled to port, in blustery conditions.

“I love sailing when we’ve got wind like this,” Bosun Martin Bacatang told me. “If you sail with no wind, it’s … like clothes hanging from the line, drying. Ten, 15 knots of wind, that’s the sailing for me.”

Bacatang, from the Philippines, singled out the area we were sailing as one of the best he knows: “Here, the wind is stable, it goes north to south.”

Up on the bridge, Second Officer Goran Kosac, from Montenegro, said our top speed under sail during the cruise had been around 10 knots; while using engines, it was about 15 knots.

Peter and I filmed a video around the ship, and Sabine gave a lecture on the original Sea Cloud. I invited fellow travelers to my cabin in late afternoon for a Champagne and Airdrop party, where we toasted and exchanged photos and videos. This had to be one of the most photographed cruises I’ve ever been on, with good reason — gorgeous ship and destinations.

Soon it was time for more toasting at the captain’s farewell party on Lido Deck. It was blowing and we were moving, now under engine power. The captain gave a great, extemporaneous recap of our trip so we could relive the highlights.

A raffle was held for the cruise chart, with the proceeds benefiting the crew.

Dinner was in the dining room.

The end of a beautiful cruise. * Photo: Peter Knego

Day 8 — Disembarking At St. Maarten And Touring French St. Martin

Capt. Stojanovic and the hotel manager were at the foot of the gangway to say goodbye as we disembarked, a nice, personal touch.

Like most of the passengers, I booked the ship’s tour of Dutch St. Maarten and French St. Martin to see the island, fill a few hours and have lunch on the way to being dropped off at the airport for our afternoon flights. It was a pleasant highlights tour, with an hour to roam in Marigot on the French side.

Was I sad to go?

You bet. A Sea Cloud cruise was something I’d dreamed about for a long time, and I loved it. The crew were especially wonderful. The destinations were idyllic.

If I’m so lucky, one day I hope to sail on the original Sea Cloud, still going strong after more than 90 years.

More Sea Cloud Spirit Cruise Details

• The shipboard currency is euros; depending on the islands visited, the currency varied but I found even the smallest places accepted credit cards and U.S. dollars.
• Tipping is included but I gave some crew extra, in dollars.
• Dress is resort casual, with most people wearing khakis, shorts, sundresses and such during the day, and slightly nicer attire in the evenings. The captain’s welcome and farewell dinners are a little dressier but far from formal, with men wearing dress shirts or jackets.
• Smoking is not allowed in accommodations or balconies, the restaurant, lounge and library or under the Lido Deck tent.
• A selection of fine wines is included with lunch and dinner, along with beer and soft drinks. Cocktails are included too and premium wines are available to purchase by the bottle.
• As it expands into the U.S. market, Sea Cloud Cruises has moved to all-inclusive pricing, bundling in port charges, taxes, tips and all beverages (wine, spirits etc), but not shore excursions. Wi-Fi is available for purchase.

Interested In Sailing Aboard Sea Cloud Spirit?

Sea Cloud Spirit will be sailing through Central America to Costa Rica, Panama, Belize, Honduras and Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula in early 2024. After making its way to Florida and The Bahamas in March, the vessel will head to a spring season in the Canary Islands, Morocco and Spain.

In summer 2024, Sea Cloud Spirit delivers Atlantic Coast and Northern Europe itineraries to destinations including Lisbon, Bilbao (with a VIP evening tour of the Guggenheim), Bordeaux, England, Ireland and Norway, then the Azores before returning to the Caribbean.

Sea Cloud Spirit in her full sail regalia. * Photo: Anne Kalosh

In late 2024 several itineraries in the Lesser Antilles that are similar but not identical to mine will operate round-trip from St. Maarten.

A seven-night Sea Cloud Spirit cruise on Nov. 27, 2024 includes St. Bart’s, Iles des Saintes, Dominica and St. Lucia, and starts at $4,995 per person (including all beverages and tips).

And a 10-night cruise on Dec. 11, 2024 calls at Iles des Saintes, Martinique, Carriacou, Grenada, Union Island and St. Lucia, and is priced starting at $8,565 person (including all beverages and tips)..

For more information, go to SeaCloud.com.

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