Scenic Opal River Cruise
By Terri Colby
Cruising smoothly on a crisp but sunny Sunday morning on the Rhine River, church bells ring, birdsong blends with rippling water sounds and passengers on the Scenic Opal river boat cross the top sundeck from side to side to see which castle is coming into view.
The Castle Katz along the Rhine River. * Photo: Terri Colby
Stone gates, turrets and fortress walls on forested hilltops tower over steep green vineyards and terraced gardens, blanketing the hills all the way down to the river. I’m imagining medieval days when knights and maidens traded secret glances and warriors’ metal suits of armor glinted in the sunlight.
It’s like floating through a fairy tale, with an Irish coffee in hand. And definitely a wow travel moment.
This was Day 5 of a weeklong cruise on the Rhine and Moselle rivers aboard the 163-passenger Scenic Opal on its new Charming Castles and Vineyards itinerary.
The majority of passengers were from the United States, but there were also large contingents from Canada and the United Kingdom and a few from Australia and elsewhere.
Scenic Opal passengers on sundeck watching for castles. * Photo: Terri Colby
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Scenic Opal Sundeck Delivers Amazing Views
By now my husband and I have made friends with our shipmates, know our way around the decks and realize that even though there’s no bar on the top deck, a friendly bartender will be arriving soon to deliver a spiked (or not) coffee or juice, or even your favorite cocktail, beer or wine.
The Sun Deck on Scenic Opal. * Photo: Scenic
Like others on the ship, I had been looking forward to this time on the top deck sailing along the historic Rhine River, its banks dotted with castles seemingly at every turn.
The 40-mile-long gorge on the upper middle Rhine River is a UNESCO World Heritage site with nearly 40 castles on both sides of the river between the German towns of Koblenz and Rudesheim.
Terri waving hello from a castle on the Moselle River. * Photo: Terri Colby
Scenic’s Tailormade app was a bit balky for me, but make the effort to get it working on your mobile phone. It’s designed to show you exactly what you’re passing in real time, so you can get details about the particular castle or other landmark that you’re seeing.
It was a great tool during this stretch on the river as you could pull up each castle as it came into view and hear information about its history. Earlier, I was able to use the app along the Moselle River to get details about Bischofstein castle, built in the 13th century.
VIDEO: Below is Terri’s short video clip of passing the Bischofstein castle as narrated by Scenic’s Tailormade app.
On the Rhine, the non-stop castle sightings were spectacular.
Scenic Schonburg castle near Overwesel. * Photo: Terri Colby
Among the highlights were Schonburg Castle (now a hotel and youth hostel), built in the 1100s near Oberwesel, and also Castle Rheinstein, near Trechtingshausen.
Castle Rheinstein near Trechtingshausen. * Photo: Terri Colby
Castle Rheinstein is the backdrop for a 13th-century legend of young lovers Gerda and Kuna who beat all odds to be together. But there were so many more castles, all with stories to discover.
For me, that spring morning moving through the castle gorge was a cruise highlight.
RELATED: Heidi tells us more about the Rhine River’s history and evolution.
RELATED: Heidi reviews her family-friendly Rhine River cruise from Basel to Amsterdam.
Scenic Opal River Cruise Itinerary & Excursions
This cruise started in Mainz, Germany, near Frankfurt with its many flight options, and ended eight days later in Basel, Switzerland.
Ports along the way were Koblenz, Bernkastel, Cochem, Rudesheim, Rastatt, Breisach and Basel.
Scenic Opal’s Charming Castles & Vineyards route covered 483 miles, 3 countries and 8 ports. * Image: Scenic
At each stop, passengers had a variety of excursion choices including a mix of rigorous and less-active options.
Notably, it’s kind of amazing on a week-long cruise to have the opportunity to visit three countries.
In addition to Germany, on this cruise, Scenic’s included shore excursions, which they call “free choice” options, ranged from visits to the French towns of Strasbourg and Colmar, to the Grand Duchy of Luxembourg, one of the smallest countries in Europe.
A pretty canal in Strasbourg. * Photo: Heidi Sarna
We had recently been to Strasbourg so skipped that option. But you must visit that Alsatian city if you get the opportunity. It’s a beautiful and walkable town with a gorgeous Gothic cathedral and picturesque streets filled with timber-framed buildings.
Instead, we headed to Baden-Baden, the famous spa town in the foothills of the Black Forest.
An afternoon in the town of Baden-Baden. * Photo: Terri Colby
Throughout history, Baden-Baden has been a wellness destination for its thermal waters and has been so in more recent centuries, attracting the likes of Mark Twain and Marlena Dietrich, and even more recently, celebrities of all sorts and American presidents Bill Clinton and Barack Obama.
Next Stop, Luxembourg
While some passengers did a walking tour (or a more strenuous hike) of the streets and hilltop vineyards in and around the lovely German town of Bernkastel, many in the group jumped at the chance to see another country with a bus ride of not much more than an hour.
Though small, with an area of only 998 square miles and a population of about 650,000, Luxembourg is a world financial center. It’s one of the European Union’s four institutional capitals, and the world’s only remaining sovereign grand duchy.
The few hours we spent in Luxembourg were a fine introduction to a place you might want to visit again.
Scenic Luxembourg is a fairy tail. * Photo: Terri Colby
I’m so glad I got to get a look at this tiny country’s capital city, but it was way too quick. I would have preferred skipping the onboard lunch in order to take a later bus back to the ship to have more time in Luxembourg.
Regardless, the walking tour gave us an overview of the city and we had time for a coffee stop and bookstore visit. But a little more time for shopping and soaking up the atmosphere in town would have been welcome.
Luxembourg landscape. * Photo: Terri Colby
Scenic Opal’s Public Spaces & Suites
The 443-foot-long Opal along with its sisters, Scenic’s Jasper and Amber, have 82 cabins and 56 crew serving up to 163 passengers.
The 163-pax Scenic Opal. * Photo: Terri Colby
The top deck has a small pool, a walking track, the wheelhouse and lots of lounging space.
The pool and sun deck. * Photo: Scenic
One level down is the Diamond Deck with the reception area, the main lounge and bar, with some outdoor eating spaces where I happily enjoyed light breakfasts and lunch.
The main lounge and bar. * Photo: Scenic
Another level down is the Sapphire deck with the main Crystal Dining Room as well as the specialty Table La Rive.
The Crystal Dining Room at lunch time. * Photo: Terri Colby
The lower deck houses a small fitness center and a wellness area where you can get massages or facials. On that level, there’s also a salt therapy lounge, said to have health benefits.
The Salt Therapy Room. * Photo: Terri Colby
Opal’s gym. * Photo: Terri Colby
Our balcony suite, number 227, was a 205-square-foot cabin on the Sapphire deck. It was comfortable and cozy, the drop down window making the room feel more spacious as it allowed in light and sound along with the passing scenery.
For me, a gently rocking boat and fresh air are the ultimate sleep aids. The mattresses were notably comfortable, storage was efficient and bathrooms were relatively large.
The author’s Balcony Suite. * Photo: Terri Colby
Each room has a minibar with spirits like gin, vodka and whiskey, beer, wine, soft drinks and juices. What you use is replenished daily, along with snacks like cookies and chips.
Did You Say Butler?
You first meet your butler when you’re getting situated in your stateroom. Pay attention as he explains how all the light switches and television work. I didn’t expect to call on the butler, but the first night I couldn’t figure out how to turn out the lights on the balcony. A telephone call brought him quickly to the room.
But I really needed the butler one night after a dinner when I spilled blueberries on a new white shirt. I went back to the room to change my clothes and called to ask for help so the shirt wouldn’t be ruined. Marek came to pick it up right away and delivered it to laundry workers who used their magical stain removing powers. The next day my stain-free shirt was returned, good as new.
One small bag of laundry per room is included (a perk I really like) but the small charge for saving my shirt was well worth the cost.
Dining Options on Our Scenic Opal River Cruise
Even in the small space of a river boat, the Opal offers multiple dining venues including the main one, the Crystal Dining Room, where breakfast, lunch and dinner are served.
Table La Rive (a long table at the back of the Crystal Dining Room with two dedicated waiters) offers a six-course specialty dining experience paired with wine for just 10 people each night.
The Crystal Dining Room. * Photo: Scenic
Portobellos is at the back of the main lounge area and requires reservations for its Italian-themed dinner menu.
Food generally was above average with a few notable highlights (braised beef short ribs, lamb chop breakfast entrée) and a couple of misses (tiramisu).
Braised short ribs and polenta. * Photo: Terri Colby
Steak and fries served on Scenic Opal. * Photo: Terri Colby
I was disappointed that there were few offerings of German or regional specialties during this cruise. I craved weiner schnitzels and bratwursts.
And, as we passed through the area, onshore restaurants were touting the arrival of the spring asparagus crop, a local delicacy. We weren’t served any onboard, nor was there a sampling of the famed Doctor Reisling wine exclusive to Bernkastel, one of our stops along the way. That seems like a missed opportunity, but this is a new itinerary and maybe more regional food/drink specialties will be added.
Otherwise, there was a large variety of drinks options. I ventured out of my gin-and-tonic rut, taking a chance on some of the imaginative cocktail choices.
I really liked a drink called the Emma, a mix of Jameson whiskey, cold brew cacao coffee and shaved coffee beans.
The delicious Emma. * Photo: Terri Colby
The mix of whiskey, coffee and chocolate flavors was smoother than I expected and I’d happily order it again.
It felt deliciously decadent at meals to have so many options on wine pairings, being able to sample the very fine local Reislings (well, except for the Doctor Reisling!), but also reds, whites and sparkling wines from around the world.
The wine-expert passengers on board found options to their liking.
Terraced vineyards along the Moselle River. * Photo: Terri Colby
All Included on Scenic
One of the draws of Scenic food and beverage protocols is that all drinks including premium liquor is included and always available, not just during meals. And there are no upcharges for specialty restaurants.
Excursions and tips for the crew are included as well. Even one small bag of laundry per stateroom is free upon request. There are no charges for wi-fi.
If you’ve cruised before, you know that all of those extras can add up to a pretty hefty price tag.
Naturally, spa services are not included. But my one-hour, hot stone massage with Dragan was well worth the 109 Euros (close to the same in U.S. dollars) for a 60-minute session. Sublime.
Interested in the Scenic Opal’s Castles and Vineyards Cruise?
Check out the itinerary and pricing here.
For 2023, the Frankfurt to Basel itinerary along the Moselle and Rhine rivers is offered on Aug. 2 and Sept. 6 (2023), and in 2024 on May 1, June 26 and Oct. 2.
Other dates are available on a Basel to Frankfurt return route.
For 2023, rates start at $4,720 per person for a standard cabin and $5,870 for a balcony suite. Promotional discounts are often available at time of booking.
The Scenic Opal in the scenic Rhine River. Valley * Photo: Scenic
I Recommend This Scenic Opal River Cruise
The ship is elegant but comfortable and delivers public spaces that foster camaraderie among passengers and enhance the journey with terrific views. The excursion choices can satisfy a wide range of traveler.
If you swoon at the thought of living a fairy tale, don’t miss this trip.
I give two big thumbs up to this cruise.
View from Terri’s balcony on the Moselle River. * Photo: Terri Colby
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HEIDI SARNA
