Mississippi River Cruise
By John and Sandra Nowlan
Our first glance of our Mississippi riverboat was from atop a levee in Memphis. We headed down the steep ramp to board the American Melody through its unusual flipped-up bow.
Riverboats on the Mississippi have a unique challenge. Flood-control levees stretch 1600 miles along both banks of the river, some as high as 50 feet above the shore. To get guests to and from the riverboats, American Cruise Lines (ACL) always carry golf carts to help the elderly and mobility-challenged safely navigate the challenging slopes.
American Melody with its flipped up bow. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
In 2018 American Cruise Lines, the largest river and small ship cruise line in the United States, introduced the first modern riverboats in North America.
American Melody was built in Maryland at the line’s shipyard in 2021 with a maximum capacity of just 175 guests and an average room size of 350 square feet. All rooms have balconies.
RELATED: A look at cruising with American Cruise Lines as a solo traveler.
Our Spacious Veranda Suite
Our Veranda Suite, #419, measured 405 square feet and felt more like a spacious hotel room but with better, ever-changing views.
These stylish riverboats with more comfort and many unique amenities are quickly replacing the paddlewheelers but American Cruise Lines still has four of these nostalgic vessels among its 19-boat fleet serving 35 states. All its riverboats have the largest staterooms in the river cruise industry.
During our week aboard American Melody as it sailed from Memphis to New Orleans we particularly appreciated our large room with its king size bed and luxurious sheets and pillows.
The Nowlan’s Veranda Suite, #419, measured a roomy 405 square feet. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
There were plenty of power and electronic outlets, much more drawer space than we’d ever need, very efficient temperature control, a 50-inch TV, a generous balcony with full-length sliding glass doors and a large bathroom with soft, fluffy towels and two separate nozzles in the shower.
VIDEO: John shows us around his Veranda Suite, below.
Cruising the Mighty Mississippi River
We’ve always wanted to cruise the mighty Mississippi and we knew the lower half below Memphis would be smooth sailing with interesting communities, unique southern cuisine with no locks and a tradition of great music — blues, rock ‘n roll, jazz and Cajun.
Our seven-night Lower Mississippi River cruise in 2024 visited:
- Memphis, Tennessee (embarkation port)
- Terrene Landing, Mississippi (with bus tour to Cleveland)
- Vicksburg, Mississippi
- Natchez, Mississippi (or across the river at Vidalia, Louisiana)
- Baton Rouge, Louisiana (with bus tour to St. Francisville)
- Near Vacherie, Louisiana (rural riverfront docking) for Swamp Tour & Oak Alley
- New Orleans, Louisiana (debarking port)
American Cruise Line’s Mississippi River Cruise itinerary for 2025 is similar to what Sandra & John experienced in 2024.
Note, for 2025, the Lower Mississippi itinerary is one night longer and also calls Oak Alley and Houmas House, in Louisiana.
Also, keep in mind, all American Cruise Lines sailings include a complimentary pre-cruise hotel night; in our case, in Memphis. If one night in Memphis isn’t enough for you; no worries, we were also given the option of purchasing a two-night Memphis pre-cruise hotel and tour package (which we did), that focused on touring the many sites in the city and of course around Elvis’ Graceland.
To understand more about the location and course of the Lower Mississippi, here’s a scholarly excerpt from the Mississippi Encyclopedia:
“The Lower Mississippi begins at an elevation of 270.5 feet above sea level at the confluence of the Mississippi and the Ohio Rivers at Cairo, Illinois. It proceeds to the sea over a natural course of 954 river miles (although the straight-line distance is only 600 miles), giving it an average slope of only six inches per mile. From just north of Vicksburg to its mouth, the bed of the river lies below sea level.
Ranking fifth among the world’s rivers in average discharge, the Lower Mississippi is very turbulent and powerful. Historically it meandered through the Mississippi Alluvial Valley in a sinuous pattern, with each meander cutting into the bank on the convex edge and depositing sediments on the concave edge. As meanders become more extreme, the point of land inside the meander becomes connected to its neighboring bank by a narrow neck, which can be cut off during floods.
This natural process allows the river to shorten its route to the sea and leaves behind oxbow lakes, which eventually fill in with sediment. Prior to human intervention, this process occurred more or less continuously over several thousand years, with the river channel or the channels of tributary streams moving across the floodplain and leaving behind oxbows and new land as older land was eroded… READ MORE here.
First Stop: Memphis
The music began as soon as we entered the Memphis airport shuttle bus. The unmistakable voice of Elvis Presley singing “Love Me Tender” drifted down the aisle from hidden speakers.
The bus “shaked, rattled and rolled” us to the Guest House at Graceland, a four-star, 450-room hotel adjacent to Elvis’ Graceland mansion.
Graceland, Elvis Presley’s mansion in Memphis. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
American Cruise Lines offers guests an optional two-night stay at the comfortable Guest House with free access to the mansion and the separate, vast collection of Presley airplanes, cars, motorcycles, costumes and gold records. On our cruise, about 40 of the 160 guests opted for this optional pre-cruise two-night hotel and tour package in Memphis.
One of two jets owned by Elvis Presley. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Elvis owned many luxury cars. Several are on display at Graceland. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Some of the dozens of Elvis’ performance outfits. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Like most guests we were in awe of the quantity and quality of the Elvis exhibits.
On our way to the American Melody, the cruise line gave us a bus tour of Memphis with stops at Beale Street (home of the Blues) and Sun Records (where Elvis made his first recordings).
We also stop at the Lorraine Motel (now part of The National Civil Rights Museum) where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated in 1968. We felt a strong sense of sadness as we gazed at the balcony of Room 306.
The balcony of the Lorraine Motel, room 306. Martin Luther King Jr. was shot here in 1968. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Who Else Cruises the Mississippi?
With the recent demise of American Queen Voyages, the only current competition for American Cruise Lines on the second longest river in the U.S. (the Missouri is about 100 miles longer) is the Viking Mississippi; accommodating up to 386 guests, it’s much larger than ACL’s Mississippi River boats.
The Hotel Manager on American Melody told us that the smaller boats of his company are better suited for the Mississippi because occasional low water levels can prevent the bigger, deeper draft of large boats from operating. They told us ACL riverboats have never missed a scheduled sailing due to water depth.
Finally heading downriver with a full passenger load (mostly Americans but with a smattering of Canadians, Brits and Australians; primarily seniors 70s+) we were impressed with the layout of American Melody with its four-story atrium and public rooms that never seemed crowded.
On Deck 3 forward the large bright River Lounge was used for port briefings, trivia, excellent enrichment lectures and entertainment.
The large, bright River Lounge is used for entertainment and enrichment lectures. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
The smaller indoor/outdoor Sky Lounge at the back of Deck 4 was a snackers dream, offering freshly baked cookies, 24 hour snacks, a wide selection of drinks, excellent coffee and made-to-order breakfast sandwiches.
The Sky Lounge at the stern of Deck 4. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Plenty of loungers and a wrap around walking track were available on the full-length top deck to enjoy the passing scenery, including heavily laden barges pushed by strangely named tow boats, semi tropical vegetation and small communities.
When we reached Baton Rouge, just before New Orleans, heavy industry tended to dominate the shoreline.
Ubiquitous Mississippi River traffic. Tow boats push huge barge loads. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Dining on the American Melody on a Mississippi River Cruise
Meals were a special treat on American Melody.
As expected, emphasis was on Southern U.S. dishes, especially Creole, Cajun and even a noontime pig roast.
We loved our cornmeal crusted catfish with collard greens, Gulf Coast blue crab cakes, sea bass with sautéed crawfish and Jambalaya.
A southern treat in the dining room. Cornmeal crusted catfish with collard greens. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
The fish tasted particularly good and the Hotel Manager told us all seafood is fresh, never frozen. All dishes are available in half portions.
A breakfast choice. Poached eggs with crawfish hash and cheesy grits. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Lunch and dinner included complimentary wine, beer and spirits as well as a good selection of non-alcohol beer and wine. In the evening, white tablecloths graced the tables.
VIDEO: John gives us a quick look at the dining room on American Melody, below.
The serving staff on American Melody was young and energetic. By U.S. law, all staff must be American because ACL riverboats do not visit a foreign country. Although friendly and well-meaning we found the restaurant staff to be less efficient and well-trained as the primarily Filipino, Indonesian and Indian staff on international river, lake and ocean ships.
Hotel Manager Glenn Taylor told us that while his staff may not be as polished as the international competition, they’re always pleasant and accommodating. He added that this is often the first full time job for young servers and he’s delighted that so many have used the riverboat experience as a stepping stone to a career in hospitality.
A pair of friendly crew members serving pre-dinner snacks. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Entertainment Aboard American Melody on the Mississippi
We were impressed with the quality of evening entertainment on American Melody. The talented performers were better than musical acts we’ve enjoyed on many European river cruises.
Our favorites included Mississippi Marshall, a master of the Blues who played a mean guitar (we bought his CD), Chris Gill and the Sole Shakers (a three-man band with a female vocalist) and the Banjo Cats, a husband and wife team who have mastered several instruments.
VIDEO: Below is a taste of Mississippi Marshall.
The Stops Along the Way On Our Mississippi River Cruise
One big advantage of a cruise along the Lower Mississippi is the rich variety of communities we were able to visit each day, including Memphis.
American Melody leaving Memphis. On the top deck with its wrap-around walking track. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
After our first day touring Memphis, from where our cruise departed, we called on these ports:
Cleveland, Mississippi
Who knew that tiny Cleveland, Mississippi, is the home of the impressive Grammy Museum, highlighting the amazing musical talent in southern states and around the Mississippi Delta?
Young and old. Enchanted by the music in the Taylor Swift Room at the Grammy Museum. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Vicksburg, Mississippi
A stop in Vicksburg allowed us to visit a private Civil War museum with its huge collection of artifacts from that troubled time as well as the unusual Coca-Cola Museum in the building where Coke was first bottled in the U.S.
Vidalia, Louisiana
Vidalia is the Louisiana community directly across from Natchez, Mississippi. Normally the American Melody docks in Natchez, but on our cruise we had to dock in Vidalia because the only two berths in Natchez were already occupied, which happens from time to time.
In Vidalia we visited a cotton plantation where we were able to hand pick some fluffy cotton, explore a historic cotton gin, then observe in a modern cotton gin the process of cleaning and bundling in 500-pound bales for transport.
Sandra picks cotton in a huge Louisiana field. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Along the way we were also able to visit several southern antebellum mansions that resembled a scene from Gone With the Wind. Standouts were The Myrtles in St. Francisville, Louisiana, and Oak Alley in Vacherie, Louisiana.
Oak Alley Plantation. Gorgeous antebellum homes. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Our highlight in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, was a visit to the capital building that dominates the skyline. At 450 feet it’s the tallest state capital in the United States. The panoramic view of the city and meandering Mississippi from the observation deck is spectacular.
Built in the early 30s during the Depression, it was a project masterminded by controversial Governor and then Senator Huey Long. He was assassinated inside the building in 1935 where there’s now a memorial. We ended the day relaxing on our balcony admiring a magical pastel sunset.
As seen from Baton Rouge, Louisiana — dusk on the Mississippi. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Swamp Adventures from Oak Alley, Louisiana!
Louisiana is well known for its plentiful bayous, slow moving marshy waterways. On our last day aboard American Melody, we signed up for a tour called, “Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure.”
Adventure indeed!
Aboard a 40-passenger, flat-bottom aluminum boat, our captain took us through the narrow bayous where alligators were plentiful, either lounging on the shoreline or swimming alongside us (our captain even fed a few). In addition, we met many playful raccoons and a family of not-so-playful wild hogs.
Sandra and John on the Cajun Pride Swamp Adventure. Lots of big alligators in the water and the captain circulated this young one to willing guests. * Photo: The Nowlans
Who’s Cruising on the Mississippi?
The guest mix aboard American Melody was interesting. The personable and efficient Cruise Director, Colin Hietikko, told us that many of his American guests had traveled the world in their younger years and now wanted to stay closer to home with something safe and accessible.
Older couples were certainly the prime demographic on our cruise with an average age of more than 70.
But the hotel manager said that was slowly changing as the modern, all-inclusive riverboats in the American Cruise Lines fleet were beginning to attract young people. That’s good news for young and old.
In Conclusion …
This was really one of our best cruises ever. We loved the American Melody riverboat and the itinerary.
In a nutshell, we recommend this Mississippi River cruise because:
- American Melody is all-inclusive with all meals, drinks (beer, wine, spirits), entertainment and most tours included.
- American Cruise Lines has smaller, more intimate riverboats than its only Mississippi River competition, Viking.
- At an average of 350 square feet, American Cruise Lines has the largest rooms and suites in the small-ship niche.
- Food on American Melody is excellent, with an emphasis on Southern U.S. dishes.
- Evening entertainment, especially Blues artists, is outstanding.
- Tour guides were excellent. (However, American Cruise Lines would benefit from QuietVox earpieces for tour guests.)
- Dining room service was friendly. (However, it lacked the finesse of international cruise lines.)
Fine evening entertainment; here The Sole Shakers. * Photo: Sandra & John Nowlan
Interested in This Mississippi River Cruise Aboard American Melody?
Fares for the 7-night Lower Mississippi River cruise (including an eighth night, pre-cruise, in a hotel), start at $3,895 per person, including all meals, alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks, entertainment and most tours (but not airport transfers).
Don’t miss a post about small-ship cruising, subscribe to QuirkyCruise.com for monthly updates & special offers!
© This article is protected by copyright, no part may be reproduced by any process without written permission from the author. All Rights Reserved. QuirkyCruise.com.
HEIDI SARNA
