A Week Of Absurd Luxuries Aboard The Sea Dream II

By Ben Lyons.

In a week full of absurd luxuries, perhaps nothing was more sybaritic than our evening anchored off St. Barths. I was cruising the Caribbean onboard SeaDream Yacht Club’s SeaDream II with my friend Caroline, and the ship arrived at the island just before dinner.

We dined outdoors at a table for two that overlooked the stern, and then slipped ashore for a quick, late night stroll along the ritzy waterfront. By the time we returned onboard, it was time for bed.

Dining on deck. * Photo: Ben Lyons

So far, this evening could occur on many of the small, luxurious cruiseships that sail the Caribbean. But bedtime on SeaDream can have a unique twist; rather than sleeping in our cabin, we made our way forward to where a small section of deck had been roped off at the top of the ship.

The ship’s lights were dimmed and a giant Balinese bed had been made up for us, complete with sheets, comforter and pillows. We drifted off to sleep with stars overhead and island lights gently twinkling.

When I woke up eight hours later, the sun was peeking over the top of the island. Anchored close-by was Eclipse, the largest private yacht in the world, and for once, I didn’t look at a private yacht with envy!

Truly a Dream

This feeling of perfect contentment, of course, is what SeaDream Yacht Club is all about. The two ships, SeaDream I and II, were built in 1984 and 1985 as Sea Goddess I and II. They were the first small, ultra-luxury ships in the modern cruise industry. For years, they set the highest standard at sea, offering unlimited champagne and caviar shared with only 55 or so other couples. Other companies such as Windstar, Seabourn and Silverseas soon followed, building progressively larger ultra-deluxe ships.

The mini SeaDream cruisers can slip into ports and waterways the biggies cannot. Photo: Ben Lyons

Fast-forward to 2001, and the two Goddesses, now sailing for Seabourn, are sold to Norwegian entrepreneur Atle Brynstead to form SeaDream Yacht Club. His timing was far from ideal; the first sailings were only a few weeks before September 11, 2001. Brynstead recognized the potential in his small ships, however, and put them in dry-dock a few months later for a major refit.

They emerged in 2002 significantly enhanced. A vast amount of extra deck space was added, including a new bar at the top of the ship, and outdoor dining space was increased to allow everyone to eat outside at the same time.

Just as significantly, the ships were infused with a new spirit. Brynstead insisted the ships were yachts and not cruiseships, where passengers adhered to formal dress codes or rigid timelines. He wanted his passengers to feel as if they owned the yacht and were free to follow their own fancies.

Care to eat outdoors one night (or, for that matter, every night?) Just ask, and a table for two would be set on deck. Feeling peckish at 3pm? Lunch, complete with champagne, would soon appear at whatever spot onboard you happened to be enjoying. Feel like sleeping outdoors in a giant bed while anchored off St. Barths? Who doesn’t?

Dinner at sunset! * Photo: Ben Lyons

I chose to sail with SeaDream to the Caribbean, thinking this was a perfect blending of ship and itinerary. Our itinerary centered around the US and British Virgin Islands, along with a stop in St Barths. My favorite islands in the Caribbean have always been the smaller ones, well off the tourist track and devoid of crowds and shopping.

The Caribbean of my dreams is about being outdoors, enjoying picture perfect beaches and tranquil sunset views. SeaDream, with an active lifestyle, watersports platform and al-fresco dining, seemed like the maritime embodiment of my Caribbean ideal.

Embarking in San Juan, I was eager to see first hand how the ships had changed since I last sailed on them ten years ago when Seabourn owned them. Climbing up the gangway, Caroline and I were met by the Captain, Hotel Manager and Club Director, and I was reminded why I had always felt such a fondness for these vessels.

More than their competition, they truly are small and personal, with a friendly, relaxed ambiance from the start.

Onboard with us were a total of 97 passengers, looked after by 95 crew. Throughout the week, we realized time and time again the small size really did make a difference. Lines were virtually non-existent. Whenever we asked for a table for two, it was always available.

Within a day, we had come to know and talk with all of the waiters, allowing a friendly rapport to develop far more quickly than if there had been two or even four times as many passengers. While Seabourn and Silverseas now operate ships carrying over 400 passengers, SeaDream has remained firmly dedicated to the belief that smaller is better.

In Great Shape

Wandering around before we sailed, I was impressed both by how immaculately kept these now 30 year-old ships are, and how the refit had brought them up to date. Most noticeable was the addition of the extra bar and deck space on top of the ship. Called the “Top of the Yacht” this outdoors bar is now the onboard social center (no doubt, in part, due to SeaDream’s all-inclusive pricing.) Immediately aft is a series of ten Balinese Beds, essentially double width deck chairs with large, thick cushions. Situated on raised platforms, they afforded the perfect vantage point to snooze, read, or simply watch tranquil Caribbean sunsets.

From the very first morning, which we spent anchored off the US Virgin Island St John, we quickly settled into a familiar and welcome routine. Most mornings we were on deck around 9am to both check out the scenery and have breakfast. There was something wonderful about being immediately thrust outdoors to start the day; we came for the Caribbean, and from our very first meal each day we felt immersed in it.

By 10am or so, we’d generally head ashore. Often, we’d strike out on our own, finding a hiking path the crew told us about or heading to a beach we knew from before. Caroline and I focused our energy on hiking, swimming and watersports.

Our scheduled port calls, more frequented by chartered sailboats than passenger ships, were largely free of shopping opportunities. Most were similar to Norman Island, population 0, where the biggest attraction was the beachfront bar. For those like Caroline, for whom window shopping or a quick stop at the Hermes store held some appeal, 24 hours in St Barts proved an agreeable exception.

After our time ashore, we’d usually return for a very late lunch. Caroline and I quickly found our favorite tables for two, either overlooking the stern or nestled in a small nook between the two lifeboats. We’d often linger up to two hours, trying yet another dish or having more of the fresh pesto and olive tapenade. Glasses of chardonnay slipped down as easily as the colorful islands were gliding past.

Satiated with a full lunch, and a few glasses of wine, we rarely left the cozy confines of the ship in the afternoon. Instead we would head to the watersports platform at the stern, which was in use every day on our trip. We went sailing directly from the platform in Virgin Gorda and St. John, while off St. Barths, we opted for kayaks and Jet Skis instead. Plenty of other options existed, too; one family went out every day on a banana boat ride. Perhaps the most satisfying activity might have been simply jumping off the stern platform and swimming directly from the yacht.

The rest of our day usually centered around the Top of the Yacht bar. We’d often head up after 5pm and recline on one of the Balinese Dream Beds. We’d grab a book and read, while having a glass of champagne (or two.) Waiters would drop by with appetizers, or perhaps with an offer to clean our sunglasses! As the sun went down, our thoughts turned to dinner.

Our outdoors lifestyle continued into the evening. During our entire voyage onboard, we only had three meals served indoors. Dining easily became our favorite part of the day. Always seated at a table for two, we were content to be spoiled as dish after dish was brought to us by jovial and professional waiters. Ample time to talk, both to ourselves and the waiters, combined with attentive service produced the illusion we were the only ones onboard.

Sea Dream Dining

Of course, we lingered over our meals, with the food generally very good to excellent. For a small galley, the ship offered numerous choices, and two particularly memorable nights include a decadent, eight-course Menu Degustation, or a delectable five-course Indian meal with a Coconut Prawn Curry.

There simply wasn’t much more we could have asked for. One evening, when dinner was scheduled in the attractive but indoor dining room, we asked if it would be possible to dine outdoors instead. Within moments, we were enjoying the fresh breeze and an island view as we realized there wasn’t much separating Sea Dream from a private yacht.

Entertainment & Activities

Each evening, some activities were organized whether karaoke in the tiny, eight seat Piano Bar or blackjack in the casino. However, very few stayed indoors; most guests either retired to their cabins after dinner or headed outside to the Top of the Yacht bar.

Organized activities are at a minimum throughout the entire trip, which is exactly what passengers want. Other than taking advantage of the spa (the only at sea certified by the Thai Spa Association at sea) or morning Yoga classes, everyone was content either to go ashore, use the watersports platform or sit on deck.

Hanging out on deck counts as a pastime. * Photo: Ben Lyons

A few conventional shore excursions were offered; however, the small number of passenger means some tours were cancelled for lack of participation, including our planned kayaking tour in St John. While we did take advantage of two of the tours — including a snorkeling trip from Jost Van Dyke and a visit to The Baths on Virgin Gorda — we passed up on most of them, including an intriguing sounding ATV tour of St Barths. Instead, our favorite activities were part of the complimentary SeaDream Active program.

SeaDream Active is a series of hikes or bike rides lead by the Captain and the Club Director. Capt Terje Willassen was a keen hiker who took any chance he could get to go ashore and show his passengers some great trails. Unlike many hikes with other companies that turn out to be one-mile long strolls, Capt Willassen took us on a long but rewarding hike up the hills of Virgin Gorda and to the very top of Norman Island.

When in Tortola, he lead eight of us out on a bike ride along the coast for a few hours, using the ship’s complimentary mountain bikes that were available at each port. On many ships, you barely see the Captain at cocktail parties, much less leading groups of passengers ashore, and we found this to be a rare and welcome treat that added to the familial, cozy atmosphere.

Perhaps the most improbable and memorable moment came on the last day, however. SeaDream anchored off the stunningly beautiful White Beach on Jost Van Dyke. The sandy beach stretched against a green, hilly backdrop while sailboats dotted the anchorage ashore. The Soggy Dollar and One Love bars, both well attended even at noon, matched perfectly every image of a beachside Caribbean bar.

Jost Van Dyke bar. * Photo: Ben Lyons

It wasn’t difficult to find where Sea Dream had set up shop for the day — a large Sea Dream flag was implanted in the surf, and waiters with Rum Punches and Painkiller drinks were circulating on the beach and into the water. Then, just before noon, the Hotel Manager and Executive Chef, clad in their white uniforms, carried a surfboard laden with caviar into the sea, while waiters trailed after them with bottles of champagne.

At noon sharp the ship’s whistle sounded, the champagne started flowing, and we all enjoyed a decadent moment eating caviar and champagne waist deep in the Caribbean before eating lunch on the beach.

When in Rome. SeaDream’s Champagne and Caviar Splash. * Photo: Ben Lyons

Arriving back in San Juan the next morning, I reflected how, prior to my trip, I held envious thoughts of those with private yachts and doubted that SeaDream could possibly compare. By the time I disembarked, I realized my viewpoint had changed. I now wondered how a private yacht could ever compare to SeaDream.

SeaDream Yacht Club.