What’s it Like on One of the First River Cruises Back in US Waters in a Year?

What’s it Like on One of the First River Cruises Back in US Waters in a Year?

One of the First River Cruises Back in US Waters

 By Heidi Sarna

QuirkyCruise Contributing Writer John Roberts is aboard American Queen Steamboat Co’s new 245-passenger American Countess this week on an inaugural “shake-down” 6-night Mississippi River cruise from New Orleans to Memphis. We’re grateful to have one of our writers actually traveling again!

So, we emailed John a few questions to find out what it’s like to be aboard one of the first river cruises back in the COVID era with the various protocols now needed.

John taking a bicycle off American countess

John taking one of American Countess’s bicycles out for a pedal. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel

QuirkyCruise: What was the embarkation process like? How did it differ from the old days?  

John Roberts: Embarkation procedures on American Countess included a pre-cruise PCR test taken at the host hotel in New Orleans the day before the sailing. Passengers received the results early in the morning the day of departure and had to test negative to be able to cruise.

At the pier, each passenger is required to wear a mask and gets a temperature check at the gangway as they board. This obviously differs in that you can’t just arrive on the day of the cruise anymore. Otherwise, the process caused little hassle compared with cruises of the past.

First River Cruises Back

Temperature check at embarkation. * Photo: John Roberts

Most passengers tend to come in at least one day ahead of time, I would think. And the new process only adds a quick test (you receive results via email that you have to show to get your cabin key card) as well as the masking requirement.

QuirkyCruise: Are masks mandatory on board? Are crew wearing them at all times? Are passengers?  

John Roberts: Masks are required onboard when passengers are moving around the ship in public spaces.

John in mask on American Countess

John in a smart AQSC logo mask. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel

You can remove your mask when seated and able to maintain social distance for eating and drinking (in restaurants and lounges).

All crew are wearing masks all the time.

masked crew on First River Cruises Back

Crew are masked all the time. * Photo: John Roberts

The ship is quite spacious. American Countess has the capability of sailing with 245 passengers but will sail with no more than 166 passengers for the foreseeable future to allow for social distancing during the pandemic.

QuirkyCruise: How many passengers in total are aboard this week?

John Roberts: We are sailing with about 95 passengers this week on our route from New Orleans to Memphis. This is a shakedown-style inaugural cruise on the new ship, with media, travel agents, cruise line executives and other special guests onboard.

There will be no “regular” revenue passengers until the second sailing on American Countess.

QuirkyCruise: What is better about this cruise than you expected, given the COVID-era realities?  

John Roberts: With no crowds on the ship, we are able to enjoy the cruise almost precisely as I recall any of my prior river cruises. The mask mandate is not too burdensome, and passengers have grown comfortable wearing them while moving around the ship. Otherwise, everything feels quite normal. We are able to enjoy the cruise almost exactly as we would in the past.

This is the benefit of sailing on a smaller ship during the COVID-19 era, however. We are able to carry on here with minimal interruption. This definitely would not be the case on a large ship, while trying to navigate the pool area, spa services, hot tubs, dining, large theaters and any other amenities that require crowd control and could lead to scheduling and logistical frustrations.

Masked John at bar of American Countess

John all masked up ordering his drink. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel

QuirkyCruise: What do you miss from the old days, now that you’re finally on a cruise again?  

John Roberts: The one thing that stands out is the convenience we used to have with some self-service areas, such as the buffet or the ice cream, coffee and popcorn stations onboard. You might face a short delay in waiting for a crew member to get your item for you.

QuirkyCruise: Is there any testing during the cruise? Will there be anything you need to do when you depart?  

John Roberts: Passengers travel within bubbles off the ship on motor coaches with no more than 25 people on the coaches (some seats are blocked off to create distancing).

blocked off bus seats

Some bus seats are blocked off for social distancing. * Photo: John Roberts

Upon return to the ship after an excursion, passengers get a temperature check at the gangway. No testing is required to get off the ship and return home.

cycling in port on one fo the first cruises back aboard American Countess

Social distancing is easy when you’re cycling in port on the one of the boat’s bicycles. * Photo: Colleen McDaniel

RELATED: A Line by Line Guide to Small Ship Cruising’s Planned Resumption of Operations.

Next week, stay tuned for John’s full report on all aspects of the new American Countess, one of the first US river cruises back since the pandemic struck.

In the meantime, here’s a video John shot when he first boarded a few days ago.

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About The Author

John Roberts

John Roberts is a freelance writer and operator of InTheLoopTravel.com. He writes about cruising and active travel, and is QuirkyCruise's resident small-ship cruising fitness reporter!

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About Us


Heidi and Ted HEIDI SARNA

I'm up to 78 countries and 110+ cruises worldwide, and it's the small ship journeys that I love writing about most. And so QuirkyCruise.com was born, an excellent research tool for planning your own unforgettable small ship trip.

THEODORE W. SCULL

I have traveled between all continents by sea and cruised along three dozen rivers. Ships and travel are in my blood, and so is writing. My journeys have translated into many books and many hundreds of articles.

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